KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Dan. What an amazing job you are doing and a good read as well. I’m still wondering how it is possible to get such detail at this scale. Wishing you a Happy Christmas and a prosperous New Year.- 287 replies
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- michelangelo
- ocean liner
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They are looking pretty smart Michael. Have you recalculated your hourly rate recently? It must be dropping like a stone.
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- albertic
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A few months ago I bought a second hand scroll saw, predominantly to make the cutting of frames easier and more accurate. Since then it has sat on the floor of the workshop gathering dust. Making the launch frames was the first opportunity to use it and practice. What I needed was a solid table to mount it on - hence the wood in the previous post. It would have been easier to have cut the frames with a piercing saw but that would have made the purchase of the scroll saw even more extravagant. Anyway to the bench - which I wanted to be of high mass and stiffness with good vibration absorption properties. I didn't want it bolted down to keep flexibility of space in the workshop. The frame was made from 3" x 1.5" pine with a very solid top made from a piece of 1.625" thick oak. To add stiffness and mass 3 sides and the base had inserted panels made from 0.9" flooring quality chipboard. I had a few rubber bushes from washing machine delivery packaging that I decided to use to isolate and damp the saw mounting lugs. The bushing was arranged to ensure that the only connection between the saw and the bench was through the rubber. The table top was drilled to take the bushes together with a clearance hole for the bolt. I built storage into the bench to take heavy items, increasing the mass further. So now I have the scroll saw ready to start making the launch.
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A merry Christmas to you and yours Jon. I do get your reasoning on the future of this build. I keep thinking I need to get on to quite a few outstanding projects and that Altair is getting in the way. However I'm still thinking that the best way forward is to finish it, time will tell if I continue with this view.
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Nils, its quite an attractive feature, its just a bit interesting that the original builders didn't just extend the hull length to give greater capacity and speed. I guess we may never know their thinking.
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Nils m- was there a specific reason for the overhanging deck / gratings at the stern? By the way the grating looks very neat.
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
KeithAug replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Very interesting Pawel. What metal are you using? -
Michael - not sure about the tea idea. Have you thought about Macallan 25 year malt. Much the same colour as tea but with greater preservative qualities. A further advantage is everything looks fuzzy after a while so the line fuzz wouldn't stand out.
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Roger / John Its probably safe to say that while the wood is part of my plan for completion of the launch it isn't actually on the main route. Julie, thank you very much for looking in and for your kind comments.
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I was wondering what was happening - good to see this again.
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Oh goody, more entertainment. I have been missing this.
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- albertic
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I tend to agree Michael - perhaps I need a replacement for my good camera. Herask - thank you - I will do a better job on photos once complete. So whats left to do - better make a list. I could rig a few missing haliards - for bosuns chairs, spinnaker and bloomer etc. I'm in two minds as to whether I am going to add these lines as they don't add anything and start to clutter the already busy mast profile. I have to add the rudder but this is a 5 minute job - not done at the moment as it binds on the temporary construction stand. The big jobs to complete are:- 1. Making the launch. 2. Making the stand. 3. Making the display cabinet. On the small jobs list is making the flags and flag staffs (always the last job). So to the launch which is going to be in some part a work of fiction. The sum total of the information I have to go on is as follows:- From the plans:- And from the web:- The first job was to do a rough sketch of the hull profile - followed by a more draughtsman like rendition. The launch is 7 inches long and the sections were iterated a number of times, plotting the vertical and horizontal section repeatedly until the profiles coincided. I then started cutting wood:-
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Hello Mark I use Beadalon multi strand stainless steel beading wire. You can see the effect in the later posts of my Altair build - link below. Rather than using crimps I use small bore tubing with a spot of CA glue.
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Michael, I’m not sure I want to hit it with a bottle, It is a bit delicate. Better just drink the champagne instead. I have just taken a few deck shots with the iPad camera. It is much better at keeping both the foreground and background in focus than my proper camera.
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Michael / John (Jim Lad) - thank you for looking in and for the comments. John A - thank you for the additional information I will look them up, it looks like a good lead. And so onward and upward:- I spent some time figuring out how the sheets for the flying jib are rigged - the plans are quiet on this detail. From the following photo I new that the sheets (just visible) landed on the deck abeam of the deckhouses, but from other photos I knew that the only deck hard point at this location was a cleat. Eventually I found the following photo that showed blocks laying alongside the cleat. My presumption is that the blocks are attached to the cleat and moved between cleats to suit various sail sizes and configurations. Anyway on that assumption I made 2 blocks with rope tails and rigged the flying jib sheets accordingly. I then went on to mount the previously made anchors starting with the previously made outrigger. `this was glued and screwed in place (using a spectacle repair screw). The anchor was shackled to the chain and then pinned and glued to the bulwark rail before being lashed in place.
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Hello Francis. That was a long gap between posts. I don’t always look at the recent posts or my Endeavour build log so it’s a bit of luck I found this, Anyway to your question. I set the mast on my milling machine table wth shims at the tapered end to get it level and the drilled a series of holes. Then I pinned through the channel into the holes. However all you need to do is scribe a line along the length. So how about setting the mast level on a flat table, using shims at the taper end to make it level, the shim thickness needs to be half the difference between the diameters at the large and small end. Tape the mast to the table and shim a pencil so the point is at a height of half the diameter of the large end. Now with the pencil and shim flat on the table draw a line along the length of the mast. This should give you a line against which to place the channel sighting through the holes for the cotter pins.
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Hello Keith, it it is quite hard to recommend a good place to start with model ship building as the choice is very much dictated by the temperament and skills of the builder. Fortunately skills can be acquired and old dogs can learn new tricks. As for temperament, well that’s a different story as by our age it’s pretty well locked in. So if you are the sort of person who likes quick results, gets bored with hours spent trying to shape components which you struggle to see, or derives no satisfaction from a days effort producing something smaller than a five pence piece then start with something simple and small. If you don’t get bored or frustrated easily and see failure as an opportunity to make it again (and better) then go for something spectacular. Remember however that large complex models can take many years to build and before you start ask yourself if you have the will and stamina to see it through. That said many of us find model making a fascinating and rewarding passtime and a source of great pleasure and pride. Good look with your first build, I look forward to seeing your build log.
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I'm gradually working my way through the final bits of rigging. I could go on for quite a while adding bits of detail. I'm finding the decision on when to stop difficult! I spent some time adjusting the mainsail sheets until I became satisfied with them. I then went on to rig the main topmast running back stays. In the following photo the sheets and the starboard backstay are complete. A while later the port backstay was also complete, I then moved on to finishing the boat and step davits. The davits and blocks had been made earlier. The step davits have single blocks while the boat davits have doubles.
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Hi John - I may be being dumb but I'm not sure where the link is to Davids post? Also I tried to search for Everson Line Company on Google without success.
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Richard / Dan - thank you for your comments - you are too kind. Noel - Altair is predominantly rigged with modern braided line and hence rope wound on a rope walk isn’t a great match. I searched the internet for braided line and came up with the following fishing line that can be bought in a wide range of thicknesses and several colours. It gave an acceptable approximation to what I was looking for and it slips round the blocks nicely and has virtually no stretch. It was bought on ebay.
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