KeithAug
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Thank you Tim. The darker mahogany is circa 100 years old. It is quite dense and close grained. It came from a once very nice dining table which i suspect was made from prime timber. Not very much like the mahogany sold today. The lighter mahogany was from block flooring recovered from a old building before being relaid on my daughters kitchen floor. I'm using up the offcuts. I think its about 50 years old. It does have a more open grain and fibres lift when coarse sanding. -
Thank you Pat. John, Sorry, I would have but I could not find spark plugs small enough ( i think in 1931 it was a petrol engine). John, You sound like my wife, have you been taking lessons? Richard - thank you.
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Over the weekend I almost completed the launch. The foredeck was planked - hard to tell though. I also made the foremost bench together with the 4 gussets that reinforce the attachment to the hull. The trickiest bit was the splash rail. The corners were much too tight to bend so these were cut from solid. Once mounted on the deck rail the were joined buy 3 bent planks. . It's probably worth explaining that I am using 2 sources of mahogany (one much lighter in colour) to add interest to the launch. I then added the interior detail of the engine housing, prop shaft cover and instrument bulkhead. The engine housing has the gear lever mounted. The rudder then went on with the bracket to support the lower end. I made and mounted the brass fittings on the small foredeck. The brass protective strip for the stem was also made and mounted. By this stage I had given the inside a coat of poly - still a bit wet when the following photos were taken. I have delayed mounting the wheel and throttle lever until the internal painting is complete. I now need to make the cradles for mounting the launch on the deck.
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Hello John. I always wanted to retire to Harrogate. A Yorkshireman down south is like a duck out of water. Welcome and I look forward to seeing your build.
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Amazing Dan, but it strains my eyes and hurts my head. May need to get my eyes sorted.
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- michelangelo
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She is looking very good Nils. The final few photo's show her off a treat.
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Christmas and New Year over and I am delighted to announce that the management has graciously agreed to the reopening of the shipyard. Pat / Bedford - Thank you for your contributions. Mark - Your light sabre is obviously very clever, my skill with manufacturing automation relegates me to the 3rd division, more of a latter day Zorro than Luke Skywalker. Paul - Thank you for taking the trouble to browse my log. I continued this week with the building of the launch. I completed the planking of the the inside of the hull and then marked out the position of the ribs before attaching them. I needed some quite tight bends but I managed them without too much trouble / breakage. Two bench seats run along the sides from amidships to the stern. I shaped these using the previously drawn hull lines. They are currently glued in place but I think I will add more supports for aesthetic / realism reasons. I spent last night awake making and fixing the capping rails in my head. Not very productive I would have been better occupied getting up and doing the job. Anyway the plan involved cutting the rails to shape using the inverted hull as a template. By about 3am I had rejected the alternative plan of bending straight planks to fit. My plan for clamping the rail while the PVA dried was effective if not a little basic. It involved holding it in place with finger pressure while blasting it with the hairdryer. My fingers got a little warm in the process but I gritted my teeth an toughed it out like a man. The next job is to plank the small section of foredeck before getting on with the internal fit out.
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Hello Pat. Thank you for taking time to look through the entire log and for your kind comments. I am thinking of putting a miniature letter/envelope in the drawer explaining who I am ----- a time capsule for future generations of shipwrights. If my explanation has failed at any point please let me know and I will fill in the detail.
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
KeithAug replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Very nice hatch Pawel. -
Pat, thank you for visiting and for your positive comments. I hope you enjoy reading the rest of the log. Update:- I have not had much time over the last few days but did get a bit done I cut the launch off the building frame. I had not waxed the frames to make detachment easy. Also I had purposely glued the planks on to the central frame as felt this would retain the planks in the correct position. Never the less the non-glued frames came away easily with a simple twist. The central frame was nibbled away with a pair of side cutters assisted by a small circular saw attached to the craft drill. It proved a fairly simple task. As previously explained I have little information on the launch but this is giving me a degree of freedom to innovate. I decided I wanted a flat slatted deck so I grooved a thin piece of mahogany and shaped it using the lowest horizontal hull section. Having glued the deck in place I decided that I would get a better internal finish by interior planking before simulating the ribs. I have not finished the internal planking because I got a bit distracted with a few fittings - the wheel, screw, rudder/brackets and the strap that runs from the keel to the bottom of the rudder. The screw was turned as a disc and then shaped with piercing saw / needle file. The blades were twisted with pliers. The screw about 0.3" external diameter. The wheel was made as a hoop and boss connected by 6 wire spokes For comparison purposes here is the rather poor picture I have of the real wheel. I hope to get back to building some time over the weekend.
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Tools for Masts and Spars
KeithAug replied to JRB9019's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
John - Have a look here for tool advice:- http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php Most good model shops carry a range of tools - In the UK I find this outfit to be a good supplier:- http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/tools.html. I also use https://www.chronos.ltd.uk and find they give excellent service. Also this link gives an idea of the sort of tools others are using to make masts / yards:- http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-masts-and-yards.php -
Jon - I over bent the planks i.e. to a radius slightly smaller than I actually required. I applied PVA glue to the abutment edge with an artists paint brush before offering the plank up and clamping it in the middle. Clamping in the middle caused the bend to open up to a slightly larger radius and at the same time caused the ends to press against the frames due to the spring in the plank. I then applied other camps to lock the plank in position while the glue cured. The season assisted the glueing because we have a wood burning stove which roars away all day. It stands on legs with a 5 inch gap below it. The hull was placed in this gap to cure the glue as each plank was laid. The curing time was about 30 minutes. Good luck. Pawel - thank you. And thank you to everyone else who has viewed my log.
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I seem to have missed a few posts - my build seem to have descended into a mess of puddings. Thank you all for your contributions - I will try to answer the points raised. Jon - good luck with trying the plank method - the following post will show how it turned out. John - my wife makes her own pudding to a recipe passed down from her ancestors (served with brandy butter). Best not to dwell on what goes into the pudding but it tastes wonderful. The heat gun I am using was bought cheaply off Amazon (sold for hobby use). I am using it directly on the wood without any wetting. Per - agreed the hot air gun is a great tool. So to continue. I continued planking down the hull until I got to the position in the next photo, I then attached the garboard planks - leaving a gap of just under 2 plank widths to fill. Both the fill planks had to be individually shaped - on the bench sander and then by hand sanding. I then cut down the keel to finished size and sanded the hull to remove imperfections. The profile of the back of the keel was cut to take the screw. I then did some final sanding with 400 grit wet and dry (used dry). Rubbing strips were cut to add to the hull (.040" x .040" section). Finally the launch got its first coat of poly. I'm pleased with the shape given my starting point was some improvised and hand drawn sections.
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And to you too Tecko. The project is developing really well. Very interesting.
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Thank you Michael. I hope you are recovered enough to enjoy Christmas dinner. The pudding is already resting very heavily in the stomach over here and I never want to see another Brussel sprout. Thank you to all who have hit the like button and for those of you about to sit down to your meal my advice is "beware of the Christmas pudding".
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Nice progress John. Loved the detail - especially the bailer. Sorry no I have no relevant knowledge to help your deliberations.
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Thank you Dan - I think I have seen others use the magnet trick. Thank you Tom. Thanks to everyone for all the likes. So to continue with the launch (the guests are proving less disruptive than expected). I put the former for the bow in place and installed and shaped the bow filler blocks. The former was then edged with mahogany to form the continuation of the keel and the stem. The 2 parallel upper hull planks were then installed. The keel / stem have yet to be cut down to their finished size. I adopted a novel (simplified) method of making the remaining planks. Rather than individually shaping planks I went for the mass production approach. I measured the required length at the waist and stern and then used the ratio to determine how much wider the planks needed to be at the waist. I then downloaded a series of arc profiles from the web and printed them out. I cut the raw stock for the shaped planks - a piece of mahogany 7"x 0.75" x 0.125". I then selected an arc that gave me the desired waist and edge thicknesses on the 7" x .125" edge. I then used double sided tape to paste the arc on to the edge. I then sanded away the edge to form the required plank shape. The sanding was done on the disc sander, employing a "V" block to keep the plank vertical while shaping. Identical .040" width planks were then slit off on the Byrnes saw. The planks were bent using heat from a hot air gun - a very effective process that I will use in future - no more messing around with steam or hot water for me. Planking of the hull then progressed. Sometimes with many clamps and elastic bands. So far (half way) its woking out well (nice water tight joints). This is definitely my last pre Christmas post. I'm looking forward to what Santa might bring. HAPPY CHRISTMAS to you all.
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Merry Christmas to you all Kevin.
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Stevenson's ER32 Collet Blocks
KeithAug replied to KeithAug's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
John, You need to think about getting something with a decent sized hole through it to take longer stock. Not all round collet holders have a decent bore. The ER collet blocks work fine in the lathe chuck if you are wanting to quickly mount something that isn't going to damage a finished surface of softer bar stock such as aluminium or brass (the 3 jaw chuck can damage these quite easily). If you don't want to go through the bother of dismounting and remounting the chuck then the collet blocks are a quick and easy solution and do have a decent bore. It isn't as accurate as a collet chuck but I checked my set up and can get concentricity of better than .002" which is good enough for most of what I do. I do have a collet chuck which I use for more accurate work. If you need smaller then you can get ER25 versions. -
John. Don't mention the cricket, or rugby league for that matter. Much better to mention Rugby Union. Have a happy Christmas.
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