KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Prop support frames can be very tricky with all those compound angles to negotiate but you pulled it off rather well. The hull plating also looks very good. Well done. -
Thank you Tom, Veszett, Mike, Hakan, Andy and Gary for all your contributions and as always thank you to all my other visitors. I continued on with the RIB. The rowlocks were made from small bore tube soldered to a strip of brass. The middle of the tube was then removed. The seat was also made - pinned into the the sides with bent brass wire. I then started to make the oars from brass rod, brass tube and thin brass sheet. Here the blade is inserted into a slot in the .040" brass rod thickened with brass tube. Also the rod is thickened at the rowlock to take the rowlock shaft. Braces that strengthen the transome were also attached. The blades were soldered in and the rowlocks were attached. The handles were made from heat shrink tube. The oars are stowed along the RIB sides as per the next image. Clips that support the blade end of the oars were made and attached. They were made from tube attached to brass strip as per the rowlocks. The top of the tube was then filed away to form the open jaw. The fabric of the inflatables is reinforced in high load and high wear areas. I started to attach fabric tape to simulate these areas.
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I think it is a common symptom of exposure to this forum and is more severe among micro modellers. I prescribe a good bottle of wine and a night off. Was it quilted or just the standard stuff 😀. Nice little boat. What is its actual length and beam?
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Yes - I saw a very good video (with survivor interviews) several years ago. If my recollection serves me well (which isn't always the case) she could have arrived early but choose to delay entry to "arrive on time". Am I fantasising???
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Lou You are walking a tight rope. Scotch is indeed a drink and Scot is a person. They get very touchy about the distinction north of the boarder. On the other hand you may indeed have a lot of scotch in your ancestry - I remember all of those western bar scenes.
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Nils - Maybe she deserves a new one😀 With 6 sails I suspect she will look magnificent.
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She is coming along really well Nils. Are you planning to model the full set of sails?
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Hi Dan, that was a very quick start. As I was reading through everything I was starting to think that maybe you were about to complete the build in one post. Fortunately my fears were unfounded and with relief I look forward to the next post.
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Eye watering - I think I would be considering dry sand sealed in heavy duty plastic bags - but then again I'm a bit of a Scrooge.
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Yes my memory was they were sometimes difficult to start but once started they would run trouble free all day long. Unlike the early Japanese outwards that always started but then died at the most inopportune and sometimes dangerous moments. Nice model Andy its takes me back.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat Pat, - The best plan would be to post a dimensioned sketch of the part you are trying to make. Then you can challenge us all to have a go at making it, with a prize for the winner. Given the interest you have generated I bet you would get a flood of submissions. What do you think 😃!- 993 replies
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You could put a seat in it - just like they do at Peasholm Park in Scarborough. I think that was where I was introduced to ship modelling over 60 years ago. I bet someone knows what I am on about!!!!
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Mark - A nice little craft, it will be interesting to see it develop. How do you keep the wood dust out of your keyboard?
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Thank you to everyone for visiting, liking and leaving comments. I have done a git more work on the Rib. I used a piece of card to get the shape of the rigid hull and then transferred the shape to 1/32" ply. The ply was then bent to shape around the transom and mid frame. Then multiple clamps were used to hold the base in place while the PVA glue dried. This was repeated for the 2nd half of the base and a keel was inserted for a bit of extra strength. I then did a bit of light sanding to blend in the edges. Mist Ribs have ridges on their base and these are generally of triangular section. I cut triangular strips and glued these in place. Better quality Ribs have false floors (to get the toffs to the restaurant in their evening shoes - in my sailing days we always frequented resteraunts in our wellies). The floor pieces were cut in 2 halves so they could be inserted below the overhang of the inflatable walls. The toffs also wanted a locker to store the ready use booze for their return journey. The Rib is protected by a rubber bump strip made from a half round piece of scrap wood. The stern also got the mounting plate for the outboard, one of those flashy Yamaha types. Not a Seagull "like what I grew up with". Summer is really getting in the way of progress.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
That is an interesting concept. How do you prevent the drill wandering off due to the uneven loading on the drill. Do you need to centre spot a hole with a larger cone than the diameter of the drill?- 993 replies
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Eberhard. Amazing that you can achieve any reasonable representation of clinker planks at this scale. I did notice that the exposed edges of some of the planks have slight steps. Is this down to the resolution of the laser cutter?
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat, there seem to be very few available on the market, which one did you buy?- 993 replies
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It certainly is an unusual design of vessel. It will be interesting to see how well it performs, particularly in any degree os swell.
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Keith. Unfortunately of late my good looks have deserted me. In fact now that I think of it they departed me some years ago. I think I’ll lock myself away and concentrate on modelling ( of the boat kind ).
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Thank you Eberhard, Druxey, Keith, Pat, John, Rick, Richard, Allan and Gary for you comments. Before I put the final touches to the launch I though I would have a go at the RIB. I dithered over making this because It feels out of character with the original Germania. However it is a feature of Germania Nova and in the end I decided it had to be installed. I had the sizes of the RIB from the small scale plans and so sizing wasn't a problem. I started with a basic sketch of the rib and support cradle. The ribs overall dimensions are 2.2" x 4.25" The inflatable sections are about .450" diameter and were turned from a medium hard dowel. The only tricky aspect to this stage of construction is sorting out and cutting the compound angles at the intersections. This was done on the table saw. Once cut the sections were glued together, the gluing process being assisted by the transom frame. The forward section cants upwards. A flat profile would have been easy, but it wasn't right. I haven't got any further so more next time. But as an aside I was finding the storing of all my previously made bits a pieces a challenge. However with age my wife consumption of face enhancements is keeping the cosmetics industry booming and her discarded glass pots do come in handy. This is proving to be a very expensive storage system - but the supply chain is very secure.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat - ref PCB drills. I only use them on a drill stand. Freehand drilling is very difficult without imposing side loads and it is the side loads that inevitably lead to breakage. I drill most of my thin brass sheet with PCB drills and don't find the cutting angle causes grabbing. I do however feed the drill slowly. Here drilling by machine helps because the rack on the drill feed controls the drill at the point of break trough. Where ever possible I drill the brass with some form of backing board (usually a piece of hard wood). This also helps prevent grabbing. Of course these techniques / precautions to some extent depend on the geometry of the component and may therefore not always be applicable. The brass I use tends to be hard brass. I hate the machine characteristics of soft brass which has a much greater tendency to grab. You comment about the description of the solder as "silver solder" is quite interesting. Over here silver solder is specific to very hard solder - usually just as hard as the metal being soldered. As Eberhard explained this typically melts at circa 600 deg c and the joint formed is just as strong as the parent metal. Low temperature non-lead based solders melt at much lower temperatures and are generally soft in comparison to the material being soldered. Because they are soft they are easily cut with a craft knife ( I am wondering if this is true of the solder you are using?). When soft solders are used to butt a thin sheet end to a plate they form a very weak joint and in my experience this inevitably fails under anything more than light pressure. By the way thank you for introducing me to resistance soldering. I hadn't come across it before but it looks quite interesting.- 993 replies
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Nice planking job and I loved the build sequence photos.
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