Jump to content

KeithAug

Members
  • Posts

    3,225
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by KeithAug

  1. Pat, you are correct. The saw is in the mill spindle. The workpiece is in a chuck that is mounted on a rotary table, with the rotary table mounted vertically on the milling table. I should have explained better. Thank you for the feedback. druxey, thank you.
  2. Thank you to all who have morned the passing of my drill. And so on to the main boom crutch. It is painted white but I may leave it as brass. I started with a sketch. The height and width were taken from the plans and the other dimensions were scaled from photographs. The height to the underside of the cross beam is 2.2" and centre distance between up-stands is 1.3". The life rings are of the smaller standard 24" (600mm) outside diameter. Towards the upper end of the columns are 6 slots - I am unsure as to the purpose but decided to reproduce them. The column were turned to diameter and then polished before the slots were cut with a slitting saw. I had to introduce a joint above the slots to make the slitting operation possible. In the separated top piece (above) you can see the hole (bottom edge) drilled to take the bracket for the cross bracing. The 4 bracing brackets started life as round rod. A flat end was milled on the end and then this was shaped with a file and drilled. With the shape formed the rod was taken to the lathe and the spigot was turned before the bracket was parted off. The brackets were small enough to loose - so I lost one!!!!!!!! the 4 brackets were soldered into the columns. The square flanges at the base were cut from 5/16 square bar, first drilled and then slit off. The observant among you will see 4 flanges. I though I needed 2 at the top of the columns but I didn't - the top ones turned out to be round. On the wire I have threaded 4 bosses which attach to the end of the bracing struts. These were turned from .080" rod. The cross beam was cut from mahogany and drilled to take the columns. The circular top flanges were turned from bar and parted off. The final job today was to sort out the .020" diameter wire for the cross struts. I only had soft bent brass wire but needed hard straight wire. So I used my standard straightening / work hardening method as follows:- First the wire was put in the lathe. Each end held in a Jacobs chuck - one in the tailstock and the other clamped in the lathe chuck (the lathe chuck is too large to clamp such small diameter wire). Then with the lathe to low speed I turn it on while winding out on the tailstock handle. Thus stretching and twisting the wire simultaneously. The resultant wire is both hard and straight. Goodnight and good health to you all.
  3. Druxey, I tried it and this is my preferred method - thank you. I used cocktail sticks reduced from .080" diameter to .070" and coloured them with felt tip pens. I completed the deckhouse (except the flags). This started with finishing the tops of the two wing structures. More skylights were required on the starboard wing but these were under half the size of those previously done. They were made in the same way as the ones previously completed. I now share the sad news of the demise of my magic 0.6mm drill bit. After it had manfully completing 224 holes I took its photograph. Two minutes later I was using it freehand to clean up another hole and the slight amount of side pressure snapped it ------- RIP. The final segment to the right of the two skylights was covered in decking planks. The bi-folding doors were then made from mahogany. They were glued in place and wire was used to simulate hinges. I feel that I need a diversion from the deckhouses and so will have a go at the main boom crutch next.
  4. Javier - I think oh good another Javier build, than I open up the build log only to find it is already half built. beautiful detail but my you are quick.
  5. The rope bindings are beautifully done, it is really fascinating to see how the ancient Egyptians constructed their vessels.
  6. Eberhard - I agree, it always feels better to make stuff like this rather than buy and then find yourself improving what you have bought. I will be interested to see how well it works.
  7. Pat / Steve - I hadn't tried it. I had rolled paper around a wire but only at the required length of .15" - which was messy - but I agree a longer length cut up is a better idea. Druxey - yes good pan. I will try that first.
  8. John - tried that and made a mess of it - probably need to give it another go. Thinking about it now I could make long rolls and then just cut off short lengths - will give it a try.
  9. JD - not been called that before - at the moment feels more like convict Keith. I look forward to your next post.
  10. John ----- Hmmmmm! thereby lies a problem. I tried printing flags on paper and then rolling them up and putting them in the pigeon holes. They were so small they looked a mess - Not sure what to do.
  11. Over the last few days I have been progressing the deckhouse that sits above the stairway. In this instance I need to show some of the internal detail. The two side walls were built first before making the flag locker. The flag locker was a bit of a fiddle - the petitions being .025" wide and the pigeon holes being .075" square. A grid was cut in an oak block and the partitions built into this grid. This block was then used to join the two sides. I needed to create the top from mahogany planks separated by caulking. I can't remember whether I saw the following idea in another post or whether something I saw prompted this but I have to say it was very successful. Rather than cut the planks and then insert the caulking I glued the caulking card on to the pre cut stock before slitting off the strips I needed. The strip were 0.1" wide by .06" thick with the .006" thick caulking card. The result was very neatly caulked planking strips. The resulting top can be seen in the next photo. I then went on to make the wings of the deckhouse - this time by building them up on shaped oak cores. These were then clad with mahogany as previously. And that is it for the moment.
  12. We all call her Splodge (or Splodgie) - her farther started it now all the family use it - mother, grandparents, aunts and uncles. I think it will stick.
  13. You seem to be getting a lot of time in the shed Paul. I don't think I have ever used 3000 grit other than for polishing brass. You are clearly looking for perfection.
  14. Yes Keith - that is Splodge (she is named after her first ultrasound image). Eventually the yacht will be hers so a bit of personalisation seemed appropriate. Thank you Richard and Mark.
  15. Quite a quick build Paul. It is what my wife would call high reward for effort. The bowsprit is really enormous isn't it.
  16. I am always surprised to find kit parts of such poor quality, I know its driven by price and profits but can it really cost that much to turn out something that is passably ok. I remember kits of 30 years ago and I think that in the main the fittings were better - or maybe my memory is letting me down. Excellent alternatives Richard.
  17. Eberhard you are quite correct - but in this instance the wall is the incorrect part. It's not terribly obvious from the photograph but I think there is a corridor on the starboard side of the stair. In any event very little of the interior will be visible through the hatch.
  18. Paul, Pat, Richard, Boris and Mark - thank you all for your appreciative comments, they are most welcome. Also thanks to everyone who visited or liked my work. A bit more progress:- I painted the interior walls but felt they needed a picture. The walls were then assembled around the floor piece. The door got a brass knob. The completed interior was then inserted into the hull.
  19. I am still on deck houses but this one is a little different as the hatch / doors will be open giving a glimpse of the interior. As usual I started with a sketch, again one square represent 0.1" x 0.1" at model scale. This deckhouse is asymmetric and as before I will build the skylight version. I don't have much detail of the interior but I will build what I think I see through the hatch. A little bit of photo editing gives more detail than is apparent on the photo. I started by building the interior which consists of a floor, door and 4 walls. The walls have a skirting board and a dado rail. The walls and the door are made from 1/32" ply. I constructed the stairway sides on a template that facilitated cutting identical slots for the steps. Using the same template I also cut slots to take the stair spindles. The steps were cut and the stairs were assembled and glued. They are just over 2" long The spindles were .08" diameter and were made by drawing mahogany through a draw plate - they were then drilled and wire was inserted in each end to fix them in the pre-cut slots in the step sides. The handrail was then shaped and attached.
  20. Rob Get a piece of aluminium rod bigger than 22mm. Turn the outside diameter down to 22mm - buy the blade first and then you can make sure it fits. Drill a shallow hole for the bore and then open it out to O.5" - use the plate from the saw to check that it fits over the small spigot. Then part off the spacer to the width that you want - i.e a couple of thou thinner then the thinest blade you want to use. If turns out a bit thicker than you intended thin it off by rubbing on some emery paper. You could use steel but parting off might be difficult unless you have a larger lathe, brass is also an option but more expensive.
×
×
  • Create New...