KeithAug
-
Posts
3,866 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by KeithAug
-
A lot of members have faced these challenges. Post a few pictures and I'm sure you will get a lot of useful advice. Build looking good. -
Very complicated paint job. I think you should have said "I made the deck from teak" no one would have been any the wiser.
-
Looks very interesting, hopefully after 28 years progress will now be a little more rapid.
- 15 replies
-
- 3
-
-
-
- lumber hooker
- Oscoda
- (and 4 more)
-
Thank you Eberhard, Druxey and Richard for commenting - also thanks to everyone for the likes. Most of the last week I have been working on the fore to aft rigging but I did start by fixing the radar (thank you Eberhard) - before and after shots below:- I also needed a number of medium sized bocks for the running back stays (2 pairs), so I spent a day making a few. I also made a few strops which I then realised were not needed - but never mind they will be needed later. It find it is almost impossible to take good photos of overall rigging so I just took photos of specific areas. Getting the tension correct in all stays is a bit of a trial but in the end I managed it - the next photo shows the flying jib stay tensioner. The jib and flying jib stays were also mounted at this stage. The top of the jib and fore stays are shown in the next photographs. I then moved to the stern and installed the pair of running back stays for the lower main mast. The photo shows the top attachment. Followed by the bottom - both are tight at this stage but the leeward side will be slackened off later. Then the main topmast running back stays were rigged. I then rigged the brace for the main mast. (It braces the top to the bottom via the dome (satellite coms?) bracket. The stays joining the fore and main masts were then rigged. I have a few more deck fittings to make, life rings, stern light, and flag staff. I will have a go at these next.
-
Ah! that makes a lot of sense - good idea. What are the vertical lines (shrouds) made from - they look like a braided wire?
-
Thank you - very helpful - i will follow up.
-
I think you undersell your CAD skills. Impressive.
-
Have you made the hull from scratch? - looks very professional.
- 88 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Australia II
- Finished
- (and 2 more)
-
Sounds great, I’m jealous.
-
Thank you all for the likes and comments. The leather preparation advice is noted and will be put to good use when I get round to finishing the saddles. I decided it was about time for a bit of rigging. Learning from my last build I plan to change my approach. The fore and aft rigging will be done first, then the sails will be mounted and finally the shrouds will be fitted. The fore and aft rigging will be done with Beadalon multi-stand steel plastic coated wire. Before starting I needed to make a number of spreaders. Four of these are needed and their purpose is to prevent the stays from the main and fore masts binding on the upper masts. The sketch below shows their form and their position on the fore mast. The frame part of the spreaders was made form .016" brass sheet. This was marked out and then glued to a piece of scrap !/8" ply. Strips of the correct thickness were then cut on the table saw. 1mm holes were then drilled to locate the spreader bar and attach the 3 shackles. To get the symmetry correct I bent the strips in pairs. To ease handling I stuck each pair to a piece of masking tape before bending. I kept the matched pairs together with a piece of wire. The spreader bar was turned from 1/16" brass rod and the sides / spreader bar were soldered together to form the spreader. I only think I need 4 but made 6 just in case. I then bent up shackles form .020" wire and made strops from the beading wire, wire guards and heat shrink tube. And that is as far as i got.
-
Keith - you came out the other side of Hell. Well done - they look pretty good to me.
-
Eberhard There seems to be a buoyant market in self build CNC router parts which include shafts, bearings, structural members, lead screws, gear and toothed belt drives etc, etc. they are all fairly cheap. You might be able to knock something together which would be both quick to build and functional.
-
Oh dear Keith. My wife has a saying "To be frustrated is to revenge the sins of others upon oneself" unfortunately in this case it doesn't apply as the source of your frustration is yourself. I think the more appropriate quote might be "If at first you don't succeed try, try and try again" or alternatively a Churchill quote "if you are going through hell, KEEP GOING". It might be worth sharing your attempts to show the difficulties - my guess is someone will come up with something.
-
Eberhard I see a lot of Meccano at our local auction house. It generally goes for a song as kids these days don't seem to have any enthusiasm for nuts and bolts. I think lego put an end to the Meccano era. I used to have a number 9 set (the second largest) but many years ago my father took it away to play with it. He has been dead for 10 years and I'm not sure what happened to it However I like the idea of making a serving machine from Meccano. You might be able to source more bits for you Marklin set at your local auction.
-
Brett - She turned out very well. I enjoyed following
-
Thank you Richard. Soon i am going to need a lot of blocks. Repetition isn't one of my favourite activities so I though I would start the block production line and then do a few at a time as needed. I always read the block making posts of other MSW members with interest, but in the end I come back to what I know. I am therefor repeating the method that I used for Altair with a few slight improvements. I need 3 sizes of .2" .24" and .28" (5mm 6mm 7mm) overall height. I start with a strip of mahogany and glue on to this a further strip which I accurately slot cut on the table saw. I then glue on a closing strip. I need 3 of these for the 3 sizes required. I then slit off strips with the width being equal to the width of the finished block. I then need to drill an axial hole. For this I made a holding jig with slots accurately cut to take the strips pictured above. This was fixed with double sided tape to the moveable jaw of the machine vice. This arrangement allowed me to accurately and repeatably drill the axial hole. I then made a fixture to hold the strips for sanding. This was just a slot in a piece of wood with 1 mm pins to locate the strips. With the strips mounted the edges of the blocks were rounded using emery paper glued into a circular slot. At this stage the strips were moved back to the mill and the 2 ends were drilled in various configurations to take attachment fittings. From the strips single double or triple blocks can be cut off as required
Our Emblem ®
