KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Ras - yes they do look pretty crude. Are you planing to try and use them or make your own? The latter might be easier. -
Greg - thank you - yes dust is a problem. Germania will require a good clean when finished - and more cleaning thereafter. As for the bedroom the best bet is employ a cleaner or remove glasses before entering. (Anti-static polish helps a little).
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If you recall I hadn't finished the aft "swimming step on the launch". I made the bits a few weeks ago so it was a quick assembly job. The real thing. I took a few liberties with the deck wood (as well as the engine and wheel - as mentioned previously). I still need to do the lashings and a mooring lines.
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No apologies needed Brian - I'm glad you made it before the end. Eberhard, Chris, Druey, Greg, Pat, John, Bean and Nils - thank you all for visiting and leaving comments. Thanks to everyone for the likes and visits.
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Chris - I have to agree. I had to work hard to convince myself to include it. Thank you Eberhard.
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Thank you Pat and Keith. A bit of time was spent on the dinghy over the weekend. I started with a few coats of thin enamel paint with sanding between coats. Then I did a bit of masking and applied black paint to rowlocks and oar clips and shades of grey to the bumpers, deck and solid bottom. Anti- slip strips were required for the deck - made from sail repair tape blackened with permanent marker. Grab handles were needed on the sides and I made a drilling jig out of a piece of aluminium tube to get the attachment holes correctly spaced. Fabric reinforcing was cut from sail tape. This was also coloured and applied. The handles themselves were made from flattened .031" wire. These were attached and painted black. A further bit of anti-slip matting was attached to the locker and the oars were glued permanently in place. 3 black inflation valves were also added.
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I have realised the great advantage of the 3D approach to model making is that if the worst happens you can just print another one. I may become a convert. Nice model.
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High torque, really low speed drill
KeithAug replied to Brinkman's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Also rather than a pin vice for drilling small holes you might want to consider one of these. My son bought me the kit as a stocking filler - to some extent as a joke, but surprisingly i find myself using it to drill awkwardly positioned holes where I would normally revert to a pin vice. The speed is very low - probably 400 rpm and the collets only go up to 3mm (.118") so it is a bit limited. A review:- https://doogsmodels.com/2012/07/24/gear-review-tamiya-electric-handy-drill/
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High torque, really low speed drill
KeithAug replied to Brinkman's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
If you want high torque and low speed have you thought about buying a small / cheap electric screwdriver with a chuck mounted in the hex drive. Just a thought🙂. -
Thank you all for your comments. The dinghy sits on a metal frame constructed from .032" and .040" brass sheet. I started with a drawing before cutting off the required widths of brass strip from sheet. The strips in the next photo sit above the sketch. The front and rear frames are of differing shapes to accept the changes of shape in the dinghy hull. The frames are circa 1.3" x 0.8'. The legs are .040" thick and the cross pieces 0.31" thick. The diagonal braces are made from .040" wire. The pieces were cut accurately to length and the "V" was bent to the correct angle. .040" holes were drilled to accept the bracing rods. I made a jig to ensure the soldering of the upright to the base strips was at 90 deg. The jig was just slots in a piece of 1/4" ply with intersections drilled out to give access for soldering. The "V" strip was then soldered in place with the base held against a piece of steel to act as a heat sink. Finally the bracing rods were soldered in place and the supports were then cleaned and polished. Finally the frames were glued and pinned to the deck. The garden is still dominating my time so progress is somewhat limited I am afraid.
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Eberhard - To my eye it seems to be turning out much more uniform, but i accept you have the advantage of seeing it in the flesh. I'm not sure I would have chosen the foam stuff, wouldn't a soft balsa have worked well?
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The foil looks a bit big to me but then again I'm not an expert on these modern flying machines.
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A lot of very nice detail and I think your reconstruction of the ships cat is extremely convincing😀.
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An interesting little vessel, I will be interested to see how she turns out. The wide spacing of the aft frames might make planking a little tricky. Is there a reason for the spacing?
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It certainly worked, looks beautiful.
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Thank you - I assumed it would be about that length. I was a bit surprised about the length to beam ratio because visually it looks very slender. The hull doesn't look at all bad to me although I can see your perfecionistic tendency getting the better of you.
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Ah! Basils Bar. Our last Caribbean trip. We spent the afternoon in the bar watching the Germany V Argentina cup final - 13 July 2014. Seems like a long time ago now.
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I never did get to do the USVI. The BVI's were very nice but we found the sailing a bit limited with all the islands being quite close together. Our preferred sailing grounds in the Caribbean were from Martinique down to Grenada where the wind was invariably easterly force 4 to 5, occasionally 6 (on the beam). The crew and I did this for many years until retirement took its toll on some of the crews finances and it was then back to oilskins and heavy clothing for our final years around the Scottish Isles. Very pretty but usually miserably cold, wet and at times very windy. All now in the past i'm afraid as most of the crew are lacking in fitness and confidence. We do however meet up occasionally for a trip on the Norfolk Broads.
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Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
KeithAug replied to Roger Pellett's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Ah, now I understand. When I cut thin sheet I tend to stick it to a backing piece of ply to reduce the "chopping" effect caused by the tooth spacing being larger than the sheet thickness. I guess you prevent the chopping by having the blade set quite low and feeding the sheet slowly. -
Eberhard - A good plan but not fool proof. We once had so find the yacht after a thick mist descended but drink made us brave and we were lucky. I too remember all those beach bars and lethal cocktails, even more lethal the day after I recall.
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Yes many times - usually on route to pub when the motivation was high and then back from the pub when senses were dulled. But i was much younger then!
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Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
KeithAug replied to Roger Pellett's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Does the prize outweigh the downside of being dead? -
Byrnes Saw Mini Sled
KeithAug replied to Roger Pellett's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Roger The thief's among us would like to see a photo showing the rear side of the angle please. I am wondering how far you went with the saw slot. Also did you consider making the slot as wide as your thickest blade, it looks on the photos as though it is the size of the installed slitting saw? The stop modification will also be of interest. I have a spare 1/2" micrometer body and was considering how this might be incorporated.
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