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jbshan

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Everything posted by jbshan

  1. jbshan
    You could make and fit the hammock rails, including any mounting holes, then put them on when you feel comfortable. Keep them in mind as you progress with the rigging, though. Yes, the plans aren't simple, but they are fairly complete. You will be recreating the replica. If you want to produce a period rigging plan, there will be much research ahead.
  2. jbshan
    Dartmouth, 38, 1655, wrecked in the Sound of Mull in 1690, remains excavated in 20th century, though the guns were salved earlier. Could have been done in 1680 when there was a war scare and they were trying to get as much serviceable as possible. Your surmise on the procedure needed to perform the work is probably correct. Where? Possibly at Chatham, that seems to have been the major dockyard that wasn't near London, where I think they liked to concentrate on new construction.
  3. jbshan
    Anything you can beg, borrow, steal or make yourself is proper fodder for clamps. Those high tech wooden clamps can be easily modified for tight places, and you won't cry rivers if one has to be discarded. Win, win, in my book.
  4. jbshan
    I suspect, from only one example, that sometimes the actual keel and associated structure would be removed, new stuff graved in, leaving the upper regions alone. It's kind of scary, but the remains of the ship seem to indicate that this may have been done. Less than rebuilding but pretty much extra, it was possibly done to renew an old ship in time of expected extremity.
  5. jbshan
    If part of a fleet, ships would share spare spars as needed. If a ship became unserviceable and was condemned, her stores would be apportioned among the rest. This practice raises hob with any 'establishment' of spares.
  6. jbshan
    Adjustable legs, to change the angle of the chock to fit different boats. The 'bowling pins' are the legs, probably with threaded section at the top.
  7. jbshan
    Perhaps, and I haven't gotten there yet, follow Lever's progression as the masts are assembled and that will answer part of the question.
  8. jbshan
    Do it on an angle so she sits stern high and the model will look like the stranding photos.
  9. jbshan
    That's the traditional French argument. It usually resulted in the French losing. British (especially frigate) captains often were quite pleased with the speed of their French prize ships, made possible in part by the lighter construction of French ships. Very, very few French captains could make similar claims since there were so very few British-built ships under French command. I don't think Dacres had any conception of the degree of advantage enjoyed by the larger American. This was the first time they had met one of the big American frigates in battle.
  10. jbshan
    It seems a bit strange to me that, even if you allow all thirty shot holes in Guerriere's larboard bilge to have come from the opening broadside, that she was apparently fought from leeward, when the traditional position was to fight from windward. She lost the weather gauge, in other words. Not the most skillful thing to have done, or perhaps she was in such a hurry to get to grips or had such contempt for the colonials that the position was held of little or no account.
  11. jbshan
    I mispoke there. Force9 has the right of it. Broke in Shannon was indeed the Commodore, and the famous stern chase was in August. Further to the damage received, Guerriere was a French prize with, one presumes, the typical light scantlings of French construction. Her timbers, in this scenario, would be lighter and more widely spaced for strategic reasons. Constitution, on the other hand, has the timbers and spacing of a 74-gun ship. Combining the presumed differences of timbering with the known weight of metal advantages of Constitution and it is no wonder Guerriere was left in such battered condition.
  12. jbshan
    Her spars were known to be weak and she was headed for Halifax for refit. This was the flagship of the squadron which chased Constitution in July, so a senior captain and his favorite ship. This might have helped the esprit de corps. Yes it was a whitewash. Hard to explain why the best Navy in the world, that nobody had been able to stand up to, suddenly has a ship, not just damaged or beaten off, but sunk as unsalvageable by those upstart colonial amateurs.
  13. jbshan
    There are only 20, it's just that they are all out in the open and they do tend to take up most of the deck space.
  14. jbshan
    Yes. Wait until the planks are cool and dry before gluing in place. Clamp hot, glue dry.
  15. jbshan
    Main sheet horse looks fine. If it goes too far, the sheet could get hung up on the bulwarks. Yokes also OK. There's not much to them, as long as the guns fit into the yoke. Nice clean job with the hawse. Not the easiest thing to drill out.
  16. jbshan
    I suspect it's one of those things either everybody knew about so they didn't write it down, or it was left up to the Captain and Gunner or Bos'n. There may be somewhere in the literature a reference.
  17. jbshan
    You wrote: "Using strips instead of notched pieces does indeed save time and effort, but it also requires some planning on which way you're going to run the strips" That is the seven 'Ps', or however many are required. 'Proper prior planning...'
  18. jbshan
    On a smaller scale model, the grain should be pretty much invisible to be in scale. Maple or maybe one of the fruit woods.
  19. jbshan
    Strips to fill the notches. Only as deep as the notches.
  20. jbshan
    Might have been stowed on hooks on the bulwarks, excess fall frapped, but basically I dunno.
  21. jbshan
    Google US Navy uniforms.
  22. jbshan
    Jerry, instead of interslotting two layers of your notched strips, make the top layer of strip wood. That's the way they were done, you save on the notched strips, you run less risk of damaging notched strips, and the grain is proper. You can use two of the notched strips to align the gratings while you do the strips, then when the glue dries you can take them out and use plain strips to finish off.
  23. jbshan
    Mike has it right. The leading edge of the rudder and of the pintles should be even. The notch on the rudder should be large enough for the gudgeons to slide into, then the rudder can drop onto the gudgeons, leaving the smallest gap possible. This is all in favor of the hydrodynamic flow off the hull and over the rudder. I tried to get some pics of the rudder on my Lawrence both off and on to show the process, but the camera is glitching. This is for future reference. 99% wouldn't see anything.
  24. jbshan
    Indeed, these were merely platforms for bringing the guns into range of the enemy, and the carronades were 32 pdrs so the amount of iron flying around was impressive. When you get the other side armed, it really is going to look like a vessel meant to go in harm's way.
  25. jbshan
    The surface to be cleaned is important to your plans also. Oils, lacquers and acrylics will undoubtedly need different cleaners. A consultant would be a good idea.

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