amateur
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And the weight to keep the deck down. The cardboard is struglling a bit with the weight, but I need it, toget the deck more or less flat. (Although I already noticed with the back-deck that some unevenness remains. it turned out that some (not all) of the frames were slightly wider that the deck, and that there was a very, very slight lengthwise curvature in the hull. So I will need to tweak around a bit with those flaps to get the skin and deck without any gaps. Next up: some edge painting of the decks. (After the glue is dry, so I guess that Ishould take a break for now) (I could switch to one of my other builds, though..;) ) Jan
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More tabs more weight and a workable flat deck Now thinking over the skinning procedure: the skin goes over lengthwise: stern sction, bow-section, and finally a midship section, that has some margin for error (3 mm ) fun thing is: the stern and bow need to be formed: at the waterline they meet at an angle, at deck level they meet without angle. The sternsection is curved inward, the bow should kind of 'fan out'. There are, hoever no slits cut into the skin to help forming. besides: in the bow section, exactly in the place were curvature is largest, the skin need to be cut where the hawse holes (three of them) need to come. The instruction says: first skinning, next placing these hawseholes, but i cant get to the backside of them after the skin goes on. Cutting the hole before skinning perhaps will cause the skin to kink instead of curve while forming, so i contemplate over the order of appearance I will keep you informed Jan
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Hi Danny, it is tabs all over. Doing away with them is a bit tricky, so I will try to live with it. I dont like this design: there is no way of checking the length of the frames: the frames did not exactly match the bottom piece. Untill the skins goes on you dont know. By that time, there is no way of correcting....... jan
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What is a kit without problems? I ran into the first one, and the instructions are not helpfull: the gluetabs are not attached to the deck, but on a separate layer, to be glued under the deck. But it didn't match up: is the deck wider than de hull, is the deckpart too wide, the tab-part to small, the deck too long, or the underlayer too short. I don't know, so i just glued it to the underside. This however did't look good, so i ripped it off again. (Ouch, the glue sets pretty quick). Ishortened the deck by about 1.5 mm, and now they under and upper part seem to match up. I hope the gluing/regluing does not result in a deckthat is very uneven..... and now for thebottom part. The instructions say: attach to flat underground, glue togetehr, and glue frames on top. Yeah....:) Jan
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Piet asked me in an other thread whether I would build her pre WW-Ii or like she was in the war. Actually, I don't know which year the kit takes as a reference. De Ruyter had over a very short period of her already short existence a camouflage-print (in dark green and grey). Scaldis also had this camouflage version, but I don't know whether this greylivery. Depicted in my kit predates this camouflage or isthe 'post-camouflage' version. I know for sure that it is not depicted 'as build', because the kit shows the modified funnel. Ihave not searched for other clues yet. and now for this mornings progress. cutting, folding, gluing. t in the last pic you can see another twisting: both bow and stern are two pieces, flaps folded outward, and than glued back to back. Although glued under heavy weight, folded along a steel ruler, the final piece had some twisting. I hope to correct this wen the bottom and top pieces are installed. I like the length to breadth ratio of these cruisers: less than 1:10, just over 6 cm wide, and 70 centimeters long. Definitely more elegant than the large battleships of the period. (The same holds for the two other dutchcruiserrs of the same period: Java and Sumatra) Jan
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And a neatly folded cardbox is surprisingly strong: see how much weight Danny put o on that deck. Jan
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Hi Piet, I will build her 'out of the box', but scaldis does not mention which date they use as reference. So..I can't answer your question.... jan
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I did the backbone, it is almost straight, and not too heavily twisted. that is the problem using this constructionmethod, any folding-errors, however minute create a twist inthis backbone. and I cut out part of the frames that have to slot over the centra beam. Jan
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Thanks. The pic was taken at sundown, almost against the sun.... Jan
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After finishing my model of Axeldijk, I start a new card-model by the Dutch firm Scaldis. It is a 1:250 model of the light cruiser Hr.Ms. De Ruyter. (The model is designed bythe polishfirm JSC). The ship measured 170 meters, sothemodel is just under80 centimeters long. De Ruyter was a ship designed inthe same period as the Dutch cruisers Java and Sumatra: early thirties. I rhink they have an appealing design: long, sleek lines. Hoever, for their purpose, they were a bit outdatedalready at their launch: their armamanet being 7 15cm guns, and a number of machine guns for anti aircraft protection. She also had to Fokker biplanes on board. het warrime crew was 470 men. The ship had an armour belt at the waterline, but that alos was more basedshipdesign inthe interbellum than a match to the modern ships of the early forties. She was the flagship of the combined fleet inthe Java-sea, and went down in that battle in 1942, on februari 27th. The basic design of the hull is comparable to that of many scaldis-models: a triangular guirder that acts as the backbone of the model, the frames are slotted on this beam, deck glued on top, andnext the hull (in threepieces) attached. I will glue a sepearte 160grams sheet under the decks, as with Axeldijk I discovered that the deck remains a bit wobbly, and tends to curve in unexpected (and unwanted) places, resulting in deck-houses not being vertical.... I don't actually like this construcion: it is rather sturdy,but any dolding or gluing errors in that triangular part willend up in a skewed hull (and there is no way ofcorrecting that skewedness). There are some buildlogs of DeRuyter around, but almost none of them reaches the end. I wonder why..... Jan
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Last night I did the last 'rigging'. As I did not make any eyebolts in the railing, tensioning up was a bit of a problem. Next time, i may try to rig using copperwire, as that does not hase any fuzziness, and is a bit more straight. the antennae are doen with a elastictype or line (EZ-line) easy to work with, but.... the tension was justenoughto slacken the rigging of the cranes. Lessonlearned for the next time. And I need tofind a provider of some decent ca glue. My local shop has only small tubes of rather licquid, but relatively slow setting CA. Besides: after opening, the tube can not be reclosed properly, so each time Ineed CA, Ihave to revisit the shop. Rather annoying.... I did some lousy pics using my cell-phone (camera battery was flat, should redo them ona sunny day, as these pics do not exactly flatter themodel ) For now this log that is not a log willbe closed, asthe model is finished (actually a bit proud: this thing is the first build in over a decade that reaches the end ) I have two card-models more or less going, but Iwill start a third, as that seems to be the easiest one: again a1:250, issuedby Scaldis (and designed by JSC). lLight cruiser De Ruyter (1936). Jan
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Almost there..... today I did the remainder with f the railings. the stern is a bit of a problem: the railing should slope upward, outward, and curve. Can't be done with a straight cardboard one. Especially while the deck is a bit skewed.... after some nasty words, I am not to displeased with the result (considering it a first...:) ) I also included a steip arou d the deck, and some pillars below the extended decks (as in many pics of the original ships these show up) the railngs onthe cranes needed some colour, I used watercolours. Easy tomix, but a bit hard on the card... I decided to leave out the railings to the stairs: they are not included in my lasercut set, and experiments to do them out of card are not fit to be shown (wrong thickness, wrong colour and far to irregular. Now the antennae and the flagpoles remain. Almost there....:) (Would be a first model completed in ages) Jan
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Yes, I understand, but she wouldn't be the first war grave in those seas that disappear.... Jan
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The result is stunning. I was goning to ask for a size reference, until I discovered that is was already there. As soon as I recognized it, my admiration for your skills grew even more Do you work using an optivisor? Jan
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I do hope sincerely that the wreck is left in peace. Jan
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No, not been there yet. dafi did an extremely detailed one for his Victory. you could try that method...(at leat, that is what Iintend when I reach that stage in a couple of years) Jan
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I am a complete ignoramus on these apint-jobs. could you explain the procedure? you apint black lines along the plate,edges, but why? You go over it with a couple of colours in several layers. What does this black add? Jan
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And this one (fromthe internet, but originating froma bookby Underhill) showing how the shrouds go through thetop, over thecheeks.
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No, that is not how it was done on the original ship. the shroud isn't tied off, it is taken round the mast, and than down again. so, coming from below, through a hole inthe top, around the mast, and down again, the shroud has a small line tied arou d it, so that it forms a loop around the mast. Seee the pic below: 2 and 3 are your shrouds, your top is at the level of the square piece of wood below. Number 1 is the solution for an uneven number of shroulds: not tied of at the last,but around the mast, and down at the other side. (i took the picfromthe internet, I think it originates for a book by Frank Mastini, ship Modelling made easy.) jan
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Over the last two hours my admiration for those guys building PE-guns for their plastic models at scale 1:350 increased tremendously. in stead of using the printed railings I bought myself a set of laser cutted standardrailings (paper). After two hours of fiddling around, it looks quite OK, but my eyes hurt......and this isn't small, standchions are 6mm apart, so handling isn't that difficult. Besides, it is just paper, so it can be glued easily, withtout any risk for fingers. but, it is worth the effort. Jan
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Sorry, you're right ofcourse. Got them mixed up. (only thing I can't remember (and not check as it was before the crash of MSW1): Martanek had a fairly extensive buildlog here: was it the Japanese Fuso of the Italian Roma?) Jan
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So many mistakes, and it still looks like a boat. So they can't be very severe mistakes Jan
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