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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. No it is a 1:87 that is on the topshelf pf my cupboard even aince 1991. Never had an idea of how to tacklethe problem of thr curvature of the vanes at this scale aJan
  2. It was not until your video that I realized the size of the model. It is far larger than I imagined. (and like all the others: I am still amazed by what you can make out of sculpting material. my own ability in that field ends with marble sized, almost round balls ) Jan
  3. Hi PIet, She is looking great. I like these pre-WWII cruisers very much. I checked the original drawings fro that small house. The funny thing is: that little house is not on the original drawings but.... it was there for sure: It looks more of a wind-shield to me on this picture, and not a closed structure (you can see light through the porthole that is in it). So it has to be a 1934-refit change. During that refit, the masts were changed (shortened, and repositioned). At the same time the anti-aircraft guns were modernized, and a couple of sheltered fire-control positions were created (using steel screens). I guess this is one of those positions. Jan
  4. Ah well, vanes. That is why mine is gathering dust over twenty odd years now
  5. and with respect to thatch in model scales: I came across a site that suggested this material; http://www.exoticwings.com/shoppe/coconut-fiber-bundle-bird-nesting-nesting-material-p-4268.html Jan
  6. THat is a very nice drawing! and a wip-watermolen is a very nice one indeed. Most gardenversions of a mill over here are wip-watermolens. for those not familiar, This is the one, Jan
  7. Thatch needs some care: it is a natural product, so it dereriorates over time, especially when wet. So from time to time the thatcher comes by and gives the roof a close shave (literally) to remove moss, dirt and rotting parts, them he fills thin parts with new thtch. So that is why you not often see moss on mills. You see it on the north side of thatched roofs. After a numbe of years, repair isnr enough, and the whole roof has to be replaced. by tge way, there is no roof under the thatch, the thatch is the roof. in housinghowever, modern safety regulations ask for an fireproof later betwwen beams and thatch. Some pics, other type of mill, but the process is the same. http://www.rietdekkerstraver.nl/projecten/vervanging-rieten-kap-cabauwse-molen/ Jan
  8. Did some research: almost all north-holland watermills use a waterscrew. Jan
  9. Nope, they don't need the sail to run. The sails are only needed in case of low wind speed. @ Marcus: are you going to build an interior, or will this be an "outside only" ? Can you tell us what the mechanics of the mill are? Is it working using a 'water-screw' or a 'wheel' ? @Piet: do you mean this one in Ter Haar? I like Dutch windmills. Quite a lot of differences between them, depending on region, function, and age. I also like these few rather sturdy ones (this one is Zeddam, in the eastern part of the country) Jan
  10. Perhaps not perfect in your own eyes, but it looks quite perfect to me. Jan
  11. Oops...... I am affraid that this means dismantling and rebuild.... Can't think of anything that solves this problem. You can sand and plaster, but how can you be sure that the moisture that is now in the wood will not cause creaks and warping when it dries? Jan
  12. That will be an i teresting build. not much models of these ships (actually, not much drawings to work from, either. I think this book is actually a must have for this period) Jan
  13. I like the weathering Actually, it is not too far of from looks and feel the Mataro-model itself . Jan
  14. Your usual pace and quality, a pleasure to look at. Jan
  15. After some weeks without cardboard, I did some parts of the Ruyter today. First, the foreard railing of the bridge. Warned by a buildlog on a German forum, The part needed some surgery, the middle part about one and a half milimeters too wide. (And yes, i need roo work far more precise, too much white too be seen, especially when photographed in macro ) Here the railing is complete, and the bridge testfitted. Not too bad, it needs a handrail on top, but I need daylight too cut and edgepaint. Instead of the next level of the conning tower, I decided to do the nedt part of the superstructure. I copied the partsheet (my printer did awfull things with the colour...), and cut the top of the superstructure, dounbled it with thick cardboard, and used it as a base: that way the curved wall comes out correct, and I have some gluing base to attach it to the not so flat deck. (for size comparison: the porthole-lids are about 1,5 milimeters) I already cut and glued the deck that comes on top of this and the next part of the superstructure. But as it is under some weight, it can't be photographed (actually, it is not very interesting ) perhaps more tomorrow. Jan
  16. Ehhhh..... who did this spreadsheet for you? It an't be you, you were finishing Bismarck (at least, that's what you suggested us ) I will be followi g with interest! Jan
  17. A card model that can be photographed in macro setting, and still noerrors and mishaps to be seen. That is outstanding quality. we don't do medals here, but as far as I'm concerned it is definitely a gold one Jan
  18. Strange, isn’tit? The guy who did the kit on Batavia at first had to give the ship another name, as the Batavia guys where more troubled with copy and namerights than with real content Why are they affraid of sharing? Is it while they don ‘t have the means or time to take the lines, or is it something else? Jan
  19. I know the feeling: I restarted my ratlines a couple of times Jan
  20. I think I know which rope you mean. the sheet is belayed on the lower block of the sheet tackle. There is even a special block for that. You can see it onthe right side of the pic here. The block is hooked to the ring, the sheet can be belayed onthe block. The same holds for the fore sail (I guess dafi wouldnt mind my using his picture) this block is also used in other Dtch ships: like this botter and the rope is belayed like this (the heel of the block always on the aft side of the ship) the excess rope is either on abelaying pi to the side, orjust neatly. On the deck, depending on the setting ofthe sail Jan
  21. Have you set yourself a zero-tollerance margin? I would be quite happy when my railings get out this way. Those close-ups pretty much capture the looks and feel of the pics of the original ship Jan
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