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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. Quite a number of lines going through the masttops (check eg EdT's build log of America), down to the railings. Therefore the mast area is crowded, but sail handling is more efficient from down under: no need to send up large amounts of sailors high up in bad weather: sail adjustments could be done from deck level. Also: you cabn get more men to a line when the line is all the way down to the deck: the number of people that fit on a top is relatively small. So yes, there is a reason (and it was standard practice from quite early on: also 16th century rigging also had this practice) Jan
  2. Yip, solvent one. I discarded the pva, as it tended to leave visible changes in the card due to rhe water, might switch back to PVA though, below the promised pics: bow and stern closed. No problems (apart from fingers wirh glue )
  3. Finally, found some time to work on the hull. again a learningpoint: find some acceptable glue. this one tacks easily, but is rather thick, and is setting too quick, resulting in those nastly 'threads' of dry glue when applied with a small applicator. now I have to fins my pics.... (I took them, but where did I leave them ...) Jan
  4. And I think it is not only fresh air for those working over there. I don't know how many fires there were to keep the steam pressure on. Coals also need some air to burn Jan
  5. No plastic, no PE, no airbrush. Don't you feel a bit off your feet ? Jan
  6. Yup, as far as I understand the business of model building, there are two ways to go with a kit: just plain out-ot-the-box without thinking, or discarding parts (sometimes very large parts) of it, and just try to improve on the kit. Some even say that that second route will inevitably lead to model building without kits. But look on the bright side: three years of fun from one box. That is not too bad Jan
  7. I checked Witsen He describes grating as you made them: the lower layer, measured about two inches high, two wide, the upper layer nailed on top, battens half inch thick, about 3 inch wide, I guess the lower layer is around two-three inches apart. so you would be correct, as soon as you follow the advice of Hans: sand back until zero thickness jan
  8. A grating expert? What do you want of him? Jan
  9. btw The foto is from the book by Heinrich Winter, describing the model of a Dutch 80 guns ship. (model lost in the war...). Mamoli based its model on the book and the drawings that came with it. Jan
  10. The plan is correct, but due to the form of the bow, you'll notice that the planks will have a severe tendency to do what you see on the foto. There is one thing where the plan is not correct (actually, more, but this one is easy to correct): The hawseholes are one wale too low: the should give acces to the main gundeck, the way they are drawn now, ends up below the deck. Jan
  11. Nope, straight from the printer.... will have a look in the shop. Jan
  12. Took me some time, but today I managed some work last week i doubled all frames (below waterline). next I attached the first bottom plate. Put it in model by rolling it on the inside with my x-acto knife handle, on an oldfashioned (foam) mousemat. Worked perfect after the glue tacked, IPutthe second skin on. It almost fitted some disaapointment when I removed the tape, after drying. Somehow the colour sticks to the tape. Glue residue, sooemthing to do with my print, I dont know. Need for touch-ups ... and I had a very small overlap at the corner. I cut a very small sliver away, but in the end that turned out to be a chunk that was way too large. Some need for touch up.... I will dollow the kit in making an overlap between the lower and the upper hull. Butting red aginst grey seems to be too much of a ask for me. apart from the need for touch-up, I am not too disappointed: some slight starving cow effect, but not too much. All other skins are curved, angled and otherwise problematic, so I keep my fingers crossed Jan
  13. Exactly how much do you use from the kit itself? it looks as if you replace almost everything Jan
  14. Does your scan/print sequence result in acceptable colours? Last time I needed such an action, it took me several tries to get the colour right .... Jan
  15. And for those followers who do not know. Here you can find them. 39 rather detailed drawings. http://www.gahetna.nl/collectie/archief/ead/index/zoekterm/Marine tekeningen/aantal/20/eadid/4.MST#c01:0. I can not give a direct link to Java, go to entry 1.2.21, there they are (as well as drawings of some other famous ships) I like the longitudinal section: you can almost put it to you wall as art: http://www.gahetna.nl/collectie/archief/inventaris/gahetnascans/eadid/4.MST/inventarisnr/3528/level/file Jan
  16. I guess you know of the ships drawings in the dutch naval aechive in the internet?
  17. hi Piet, sorry Surabaya is again in second place, :), but the Java will be a worthy number one:) Jan
  18. Nope, those ropes didn't exist then. no health and safety involved Jan
  19. Why should you nee one? After carefully fitting and checking, glueing should be possible without too much problems. I have seen people using jigs (with various results), but more often people clamp something square (such as a bunch of lego-blocks) between bulkhead and keel. something like this one (I borrowed this from the internet) (notice the building board to keep the keel strainght.) Jan
  20. I have seen steelwool/vinegar used , but the effect is very much dependent on the type of wood. So extensive testing on amonts used is necessary. Not something you want to do on the realstuff Jan
  21. Nothing in Kane on this subject? His thesis suggest that side-wheelers had a sharp bow, like in the scan above. Jan
  22. This one turned out wonderfully. I guess your next one will even be better. Don't start without warning us. I want a front-row seat Jan
  23. No offence taken, I know the model is not th actual ship, however.....looking at a modelof a ship with a history, I can't but think of that history. That's why I think the presentation of these ships should be done with some respect to the original. And yes, calling a sub a cigar isn't unusual, no problem with that. Jan
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