amateur
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Some progress. I see I have some difficulty to get my pictures sharp and clear. Presumably because I take them from short distance with a flash, somewhere late at night I laminated the decking (on newly bought cardboard: it curves up only a bit, and it is much, much nicer to my scalpel) (but boy, how hazy the pic is ) There seemed to be some problem in the height of the central stringer and the frames. After some measuring I decided that the mid-frame was too low, so some filler was needed: And then the deck went on (actually, it is the second deck, as the first had far too much glue on the top-side ) Which learned me two new lessons: beware of too much glue, and second: make sure you have enough colour cartridges in your stack ) So much for now, Jan
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I don' know how my scalpel did it, but it managed to keep out of the picture. It is there anyway. Couldn'r do without. the needle files are on my long list if things to buy. I am looking for a source of the swan scalpels in large quantities. Here in the Netherlands they are hatd to come by, and postage from abroad is a bit high, compared to the actual price of the knives... jan
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Congrats to you and your Mrs! Have a nice trip. Italy is a nice place to be on the 'old continent'. Jan
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Long time ago we had a member named martanek. He did wonders with paper, and always used a tictac as a reference for size in his pictures. With that search light, I missed the tictac, I'm afraid the thing is even smaller than I dare to imagine Jan
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Yes, additional skin support is an option. Although the frames are reasonably close to each other, it might be worthwhie to do. My (theoretical till now) problem is that the hull below the waterline follows some nicely curved lines, resulting in both convex and concave surfaces. I have some difficulty to imagine how the outside of the braces should be: most importantly: I can imagine the curved lines, but am not sure whether or not I will be able to get the paper follow that line, or that the paper will ly flat between the frames. Jan
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I couldn't resist: the dry-fit has been turned into a fully glued version. Fit was good, and the results looks prettiy straight. Frames look a bit small to use as a basis fog gluing the skin on. Jan
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Two weeks ago I bought myself a paper-kit of a rather nice ship (a Dutch protected cruiser (Evertsen). As there are no spare parts in that one, I decided to do a warming-up, by building the V108 Torpedo boat. Why: Quite simple: it is a rather nice little ship, there is an excelent tutorial of it in MSW, and last-but-not least, it is a free download, so if I screw things up, I can just start over. I made some little prgress over the last two weeks. Learning a few lessons: cheap cardboard is a no-go for most parts: it is curving in all directions. Keep your knife straight, otherwise you get a nice bevel on your frames where you don't want it: Don't force, otherwise straight parts aren't straight anymore: You can use a glass plate, and lots of tamiya tape to correct allmost all problems mentioned above And finally: now I know what dictionaries are for: To be continued..... Jan Ps: how do I remove uploaded pics that shouldn't be here? That skeleton of Eversten keeps popping up found it
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You can find a kind of build log over here: http://www.riksgewijs.nl/modelbouw/scheepsverslagen/friese-schouw/ Jan
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There used to be a Dutch type of fishing ships that beached to unload their catch. They used to do that with set sails. After beaching, they kept the sails set, to let them dry, before furling. To give you an impression:
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It is a WvdV-drawing fro the National Maritme in England. It is catalogued as 'St Andrew?' http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/136172.html Jan
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As a northern European I am not used to these kind of "beaches" , but the result is absolutely fabulous!! Jan
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Here are some pics (after removing a serious amount of dust ) As I said, it was my first plank on frame kit, and it was a bit difficult for me: no experience, no power tools, no hobbyshop around the corner for replacement, and no MSW to guide me along I remember tha getting the front and backend fit to the bottom didn'w quite work out as a wanted (the end-pieces needed some serious amount of bevel, which my sandpaper just woulnd't do, as it also wouldn;t remove the numers wich were painted inside the pieces) Also, I danded the sides flat, but actually, the top plank should be sanded flat, but with a nice edge. And I had some problems with the rigging (yeah.....) as Billings hadn't put enough of those silly plastic blocks in the kit (how difficult can it be to count till ten ). Wit respect to size: it is a large scale boat, around 60 cm high and long. All in all, as a thirteen-year old boy I enjoyed it, and I even did another Billings after that. Jan
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Talent mostly: Dan's results are not correlated with the material he uses Jan
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- amatsukaze
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On that case, the second recommendation.
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4 pieces as in: 30mm x 2mm x 2mm ? Sometimes I wonder why kit-sellers just don't include enough strip of the size they need...... Assuming my assumption is coorect. Wallnut is pretty tough and can have quite some grain, and 4mm is too thick to use a knife. My guess is that using a knife will lead to splitting and splintering of the wood. recommendation 1: Is the piece going to be painted? if so: try finding some strip in a size that matches the 2x2mm thickness you need. recommendation 2: I have some small (thin, and rather sharp) X-acto saw blades that can be put in a knife-holder. These are much finer than normal fretsaws, etc. Couldn't find an X-acto pic, so I took an other one. Jan
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I'll have to seriously remove some dust, and do some minor restoration Jan
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Thanks, and yes, 1:200 is half the size of 1:100, I know, but still, seeing the size of the model in your hand make you realize that it is really small (although, with 42 centimeters, it is still a model of some size) I started cutting the V108 bottom, and the positve news was that the card could be bent flat quite easily when the parts were cut out. The problem is that in this thickness (just under 1mm) my artshop only had this rather coarse greyboard. The nice ones start at thickness of around 1.5 mm, which is too thick for this model. Dutch shops in my area tend to have large amounts of rather glossy coloured thin cardboards, but not so much in the thicker stuff, also the assortment of printable thick paper is small: 80, 120 and 160 grams. 160 grams is around .25 mm thick. For the larger parts, I would have liked paper of around 200 grams, but that was only available in postcard-size. Jan
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But I did something I perhaps shouldn't have done: As I was a bit interested in the size of the model, I put together the laser-cut framing. (still without glue). And What I "feared" is true: 1:200 in paper is far, far smaller than in wood scale 1:100 The midd-frame is in tow parts, as are the "false decks' to get the frames in the correct position. I guess that this is where this log stops now, I will try to find some time to start on V108, and open a log for that one. I glued the frame-parts to a piece of cardboard, which - as expected - went 'non-flat' in all posiible directions at once (and yes, this pic was taken after the piece of cardboard rested under a couple of heavy books overnight ) To be continued (some time in the future) Jan
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The funny thing was that it was build upside down, and that planking consisted of dive planks only. I wonder wheteher or not your wood will still take bending strain, or that it has become brittle over the last 20-something years. Jan
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Not tpp strange that you can not find a log: the model was pretty well out of production when internet started. it was my first larger wooden kit. So yes, I did this ship, and it is still in my room (somewhere under a large pile of dust ) at leats, i think you mean this one Jan
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I decided to give myself a bit of practice, by trying V108 first. I am nit that practised in paperwork, and as Eversten is a full-hull, I want to have some trial and error possibilities Jan
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Thanks, I did find that one. As far as I know the onlu buildlog inthe internet... I do hope that log will continue, as it is always helpfull to have someone ahead of you. Jan
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Sorry, that's what was mentioned on the site of one of the shops i visited... I'll change my text. jan
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Actually, the number of pages diagrams is largee than the number of pages with parts. Jan
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