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amateur

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  1. amateur
    Hi Steve, My guess is that these sheaves are not attached to the mast, so they won't change position when the mastis lowered. Also, there is no need to get the reep attached to the mast: it is taken directly to the main capstan on the aft deck, (as indicated in th efigure Kees posted. btw. on that picture, also the positions of the various fisherman are indicated (starting from the youngest one, on the bow of the lugger) Lowerin gthe mast is for not getting hit by the wind (which should get the ship in potentially large problems, as the Vleet is quite a long (and heavy) netting which you certianly wouldn't loose..... Retractable bowsprits ar equite common in Dutch fishing ships: I guess to get the center of gravity as low as possible, and as close to the mast as possible. The thing you see above the fishermen is the sail that is usually attached to the main stay. That was hauled up (as far as I was told) to prevnt being fauled by the vleet, (which was handled on the deck just below) Jan
  2. amateur
    I'm no expert, but isn't that first strake above the main wale a bit awkward: it disappears in one long, very narrow taper, while at the same time it is heavilycurved inward. How would that strake have been fastened? Jan
  3. amateur
    I still like the 100%-manual approach best: less risk of breaking, less risk of taking too much (and start over again) Jan
  4. amateur
    Is it? Getting them square is one, but you will have to check whether the keel isn't warped. Also (speaking from experience) the slots in the frames have to be dead-center, otherwise eveything can be square,but your deck will be warped. Jan
  5. amateur
    Building a hull from whipped cream....quite innovative I guess sanding will be an outside job. Hope your weather will be fine this week jan
  6. amateur
    Another interesting result. I had a bottom plate, flattened. I had a deck (laminated on proper cardboard, flat as a glass plate) I attached the bottom plate to a glass plate, glued the frames and the deck onto it, let it dry under a considerable weight. Yesterday, I took the upper hull from the glass plate, to attach the lower hull. But....the aft end of the hull curved up by almost 3 millimeters (which is considerable, given the fact that the height of the hull is slightly over 1 cm.... (btw: the curving up of the hull is something I have experienced in more paper-build in my younger years, so lousy cardboard can not be the only explanation ) Option I see a: glue a serious wooden stringer along the lower side (but that will take some modification of the frames in the lower hull b: ignore and continue c: use some force to counterbend, and hope it will get better after attaching the lower hull plates d: restart, but without knowing the source of the problem, I am afraid that the outcome will be the same..... At the moment I tend to option c. Jan
  7. amateur
    I think I'll come back in three weeks when you're finished Thats a serious amount of cardboard on your workbench! If your frames are as thin as mine, you will definitely need some time to get some additional strips to thicken them up. Jan
  8. amateur
    Thanks!
  9. amateur
    Hadnt thought of that option, I'll try to think it out. problem sits in the aftermoth skinpart, that has quite an angle to the upper hull part. Im not quite sure, but i think the designer did n't go for butting, but for overlapping skinparts. Jan
  10. amateur
    And a dry-fit for the other half of the hull. Frame 1 was a bit fiddly: the slot almost divides the thing in two separate halves... Just now I started wondering: the model can be build full-hull and waterline-only. Therefore,. the hull plating of the upper part covers the sides of the base-plate. On the other hand: the plating of the lower hull also covers the sides of that base plate. Therefore: after attaching the lower hull, the base plate is wider than it shoudl be for the upper hull. Am I seeing problem were no problems are, or should I trim down the baseplate by .3 mm on all sides Jan
  11. amateur
    Piet, Good to hear from you. We are confronted here in the Netherlands with pictures from Sint Maarten, that took the full force of the hurricane. Never realized that an hurricane could be so bad. Glad to hear that you have not too much damage. Jan
  12. amateur
    Hi Kees, I will be followi g this one with interest! I like the lines of the loggers, Are you going to d full rigging (including all sails), or will the mast be a bare pole? Jan
  13. amateur
    Some progress. I see I have some difficulty to get my pictures sharp and clear. Presumably because I take them from short distance with a flash, somewhere late at night I laminated the decking (on newly bought cardboard: it curves up only a bit, and it is much, much nicer to my scalpel) (but boy, how hazy the pic is ) There seemed to be some problem in the height of the central stringer and the frames. After some measuring I decided that the mid-frame was too low, so some filler was needed: And then the deck went on (actually, it is the second deck, as the first had far too much glue on the top-side ) Which learned me two new lessons: beware of too much glue, and second: make sure you have enough colour cartridges in your stack ) So much for now, Jan
  14. amateur
    I don' know how my scalpel did it, but it managed to keep out of the picture. It is there anyway. Couldn'r do without. the needle files are on my long list if things to buy. I am looking for a source of the swan scalpels in large quantities. Here in the Netherlands they are hatd to come by, and postage from abroad is a bit high, compared to the actual price of the knives... jan
  15. amateur
    Congrats to you and your Mrs! Have a nice trip. Italy is a nice place to be on the 'old continent'. Jan
  16. amateur
    Long time ago we had a member named martanek. He did wonders with paper, and always used a tictac as a reference for size in his pictures. With that search light, I missed the tictac, I'm afraid the thing is even smaller than I dare to imagine Jan
  17. amateur
    Yes, additional skin support is an option. Although the frames are reasonably close to each other, it might be worthwhie to do. My (theoretical till now) problem is that the hull below the waterline follows some nicely curved lines, resulting in both convex and concave surfaces. I have some difficulty to imagine how the outside of the braces should be: most importantly: I can imagine the curved lines, but am not sure whether or not I will be able to get the paper follow that line, or that the paper will ly flat between the frames. Jan
  18. amateur
    Great job! Jan
  19. amateur
    I couldn't resist: the dry-fit has been turned into a fully glued version. Fit was good, and the results looks prettiy straight. Frames look a bit small to use as a basis fog gluing the skin on. Jan
  20. amateur
    Two weeks ago I bought myself a paper-kit of a rather nice ship (a Dutch protected cruiser (Evertsen). As there are no spare parts in that one, I decided to do a warming-up, by building the V108 Torpedo boat. Why: Quite simple: it is a rather nice little ship, there is an excelent tutorial of it in MSW, and last-but-not least, it is a free download, so if I screw things up, I can just start over. I made some little prgress over the last two weeks. Learning a few lessons: cheap cardboard is a no-go for most parts: it is curving in all directions. Keep your knife straight, otherwise you get a nice bevel on your frames where you don't want it: Don't force, otherwise straight parts aren't straight anymore: You can use a glass plate, and lots of tamiya tape to correct allmost all problems mentioned above And finally: now I know what dictionaries are for: To be continued..... Jan Ps: how do I remove uploaded pics that shouldn't be here? That skeleton of Eversten keeps popping up found it
  21. amateur
    You can find a kind of build log over here: http://www.riksgewijs.nl/modelbouw/scheepsverslagen/friese-schouw/ Jan
  22. amateur
    There used to be a Dutch type of fishing ships that beached to unload their catch. They used to do that with set sails. After beaching, they kept the sails set, to let them dry, before furling. To give you an impression:
  23. amateur
    It is a WvdV-drawing fro the National Maritme in England. It is catalogued as 'St Andrew?' http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/136172.html Jan
  24. amateur
    As a northern European I am not used to these kind of "beaches" , but the result is absolutely fabulous!! Jan
  25. amateur
    Here are some pics (after removing a serious amount of dust ) As I said, it was my first plank on frame kit, and it was a bit difficult for me: no experience, no power tools, no hobbyshop around the corner for replacement, and no MSW to guide me along I remember tha getting the front and backend fit to the bottom didn'w quite work out as a wanted (the end-pieces needed some serious amount of bevel, which my sandpaper just woulnd't do, as it also wouldn;t remove the numers wich were painted inside the pieces) Also, I danded the sides flat, but actually, the top plank should be sanded flat, but with a nice edge. And I had some problems with the rigging (yeah.....) as Billings hadn't put enough of those silly plastic blocks in the kit (how difficult can it be to count till ten ). Wit respect to size: it is a large scale boat, around 60 cm high and long. All in all, as a thirteen-year old boy I enjoyed it, and I even did another Billings after that. Jan

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