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amateur
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Yes, I understand, but she wouldn't be the first war grave in those seas that disappear.... Jan
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The result is stunning. I was goning to ask for a size reference, until I discovered that is was already there. As soon as I recognized it, my admiration for your skills grew even more Do you work using an optivisor? Jan
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I do hope sincerely that the wreck is left in peace. Jan
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No, not been there yet. dafi did an extremely detailed one for his Victory. you could try that method...(at leat, that is what Iintend when I reach that stage in a couple of years) Jan
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I am a complete ignoramus on these apint-jobs. could you explain the procedure? you apint black lines along the plate,edges, but why? You go over it with a couple of colours in several layers. What does this black add? Jan
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And this one (fromthe internet, but originating froma bookby Underhill) showing how the shrouds go through thetop, over thecheeks.
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No, that is not how it was done on the original ship. the shroud isn't tied off, it is taken round the mast, and than down again. so, coming from below, through a hole inthe top, around the mast, and down again, the shroud has a small line tied arou d it, so that it forms a loop around the mast. Seee the pic below: 2 and 3 are your shrouds, your top is at the level of the square piece of wood below. Number 1 is the solution for an uneven number of shroulds: not tied of at the last,but around the mast, and down at the other side. (i took the picfromthe internet, I think it originates for a book by Frank Mastini, ship Modelling made easy.) jan
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Over the last two hours my admiration for those guys building PE-guns for their plastic models at scale 1:350 increased tremendously. in stead of using the printed railings I bought myself a set of laser cutted standardrailings (paper). After two hours of fiddling around, it looks quite OK, but my eyes hurt......and this isn't small, standchions are 6mm apart, so handling isn't that difficult. Besides, it is just paper, so it can be glued easily, withtout any risk for fingers. but, it is worth the effort. Jan
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Sorry, you're right ofcourse. Got them mixed up. (only thing I can't remember (and not check as it was before the crash of MSW1): Martanek had a fairly extensive buildlog here: was it the Japanese Fuso of the Italian Roma?) Jan
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So many mistakes, and it still looks like a boat. So they can't be very severe mistakes Jan
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- utrecht
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I don't know. He left msw as there were to few papermodellers, but he seems to have left all fora. Perhaps other life-events became more important, or he decided that posting the same stuff over and over again were not so much fun as the building itself. Who knows, he didn't leave any 'goodby-messages'. jan
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It is startting to remind me of Martanek's buid of the Fuso. A comparable ship (Italian) from the same period. He did it without PE, and did wonders with "just" copper wire and paper. But the priciple was the same: each time we were thinking it couldn't get smaller and/or more crowded, more details were added. I like these models a lot. Jan
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I held a piece of .2mm wire to my screen while looking at those guns. Still not recovered....... Jan
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These two pieces are not painted in the Utrecht. In dutch they are called'overloop', no ideawhat the english name is. they are slightly curved, and the corners are 'rounded', to prevent the metal ring getting stuck inthe wood. Note: they are locatedveryneartothedeck, and not to the uppersideof the railing. jan
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And the last one (pic from the book on the Utrecht). Onthe starboardside,you can see the rather sturdyblock of wood between the frames in the positionof the leeboard.
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And outside. Don't ask me what the line is for. I guess to prevent loss when the metal Gets loose.
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See, nothing fancy on the inside. The slab is outside, to get the leeboard outside of the wales, and at the correct angle.
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I can get you a pic of the inside. But you'll have to wait as I can't find it now. sometimes, at the position ot the leeboard, the frames extend all the way up to the railing to inforce this area. jan
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Did some work today. Unfortunatedly, during our mobe last summer, the aft crane had a severe blow, resulting in a backward tilt. I got it almost vertical again, but not entirely did the rigging of the cranes (the basic version next will be the tedios work of railing. I have a laser cut general railing set, i could alos go for self-maed, or the ugly kitprovided version (just railing rpinted on white cardboard.) I guess it will be the laser-cut version.
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The instruction I had with my (Corel) Prins Willem, was done by someone who looked up word-by-word in a dictionary, and had no understanding of ships nor modelbuilding. Jan
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As far as I understand, he is going to build her outside-inwards: starting with the plating, than adding ribs, interior plating, decks, etc. I guess, that once the paper plating fits, he is redoing it in styrene sheeting. Never seen it done this way before. Jan
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I always understood that shipmountd radar did not exist when the Bismarck was around. Jan
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I saw you were buying tools, so I hoped and rushed...... Jan
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- albertic
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After an afternoon struggling with tiny piecies, I can tell you. Although our first 'paper experience' dates back to early childhood, building with paper IS NOT EASY😡 I did the backside of the ship, and one side up to the bow (including rubbing strips) Although looking OK from a distance, I am not quite pleased with the result. 1. The grey tends to t nd to yellow/green when in contact with water. Strange, as the ink should be waterproof..... 2. I can't get the colour of my paint correct, it is something else than flat grey, so, making corrections is not easy ..... 3 due to thefact that upper and lower hull do not butt,but overlap, i needed a small filler between both hull parts, to get enough lenght at the bow. Will createa minor problem with part 17 (formost bulkhead) having said all that, here are some low quality (cellphone) pics. over all view from acceptable distance Filler peice, and some paint, as the after part of the bow section lost some colour. Under flashlight, the grey is even more off than in real life Same on the other side...I grabbed the mod l with wet fingers, so there was a rather yellowy discolouration in that area. I guess this will be the "wall side" of this model,especially while the rubbing strip is off by at least half a millimeter (width of the strip is around 1.5 just for reference) and the last pic of today: the gluestrip for the upper deck.
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That's where his Testors fillerand paintbox come in handy After I had some ripp off, Danny said that usind Testors dullcota spray makes the cardboad surface quite resistant to that problem. No idea whether that also holds for these laser-parts Jan
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