Jump to content

kurtvd19

NRG Member
  • Posts

    2,896
  • Joined

  • Last visited

7 Followers

About kurtvd19

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Far West Chicago Suburbs

Recent Profile Visitors

9,821 profile views
  1. Bruce: Just had time to actually look at your build log (11-18-24) and am now following along (11-04-24). Great attention to detail. Will be going back to day 1 and catch up. Take care, Kurt
  2. They have had this promo going for a long time. I think it is a great promo and should encourage more builds. Kurt
  3. I would recommend centering the stack as well as the wheel. The Capt would stand to one side or the other and operate the wheel from directly behind the handles on the spokes. Some wheels were quite tall and it was much easier to operate the wheel from one side or the other. Being offset to steer makes the issue of seeing around the stack unimportant. These boats and especially if pushing a barge required the Capt. to be looking way out in front of the boat or the Boat/Barge tow. The throttle and whistle controls were offset to one side or the other or provided on both sides of the wheel thus making the operation of the wheel from behind the spoke handles. This has carried over to this day. Kurt
  4. Nigel: We have some meetings where we bring our favorite tools to discuss. The Loom A Line (LoL) has never once been brought to a meeting as a favorite tool. In fact one meeting night I added a sub topic "Bring a tool that should never have been made or purchased. Three (3) brought Loom A Lines! For a very good reason - it is useless. Better to set up a jig to hold the mast with space below for the dead eyes and aligned as per the plans. They are most of the time at angles - at the most only one shroud will be directly line up with the dead eye's position per the plans using the LoL. There is one other jig for doing what the LoL is supposed to do and that is the jig available from Model Expo that has adjustments for the dead eyes as well as height adjustment. I stick with doing the rigging off the model but using the actual mast and locating the dead eyes below per the plan. Kurt
  5. I definitely back up this recommendation highly and further suggest you skip the plastic lens versions & get glass lenses - a bit more $ but later when you really need them you will be glad you spent the extra $. I am at the stage now that I am going to hang them next to my shop door so they are the first thing I grab and the last thing I put away. Kurt
  6. I vote for either one over the Tennessee. Surely somebody has built the Tennessee before - I don't remember a garbage scow though. Kurt
  7. This is the correct place for the item. I don't need another Zona saw but I like this and will most likely purchase one.
  8. Call Donna Byrnes and ask if she has any motors for the saws. If she has any she will probably sell you one. Kurt
  9. Check the Model Machines ad here on the right side. Click on the 4 inch disc sander and order the number of discs and the grit you want. Donna is still selling supplies for the machines just not the machines yet. Call if you want to confirm this but I just spoke to her last Thursday.
  10. For what it is worth there is a motor upgrade for the Preac saw that uses a motor very similar to the Byrnes saw motor. Even has the same box with the capacitor inside. It is sold by Ship Ahoy Models in Saugus, MA. Phone is 781-231-0212. The owner's first name is Bob and he's a member of the Boston club. If you call him and get the information about the motor please let us know here.
  11. First check the switch. The switch is the first thing to go and you mentioned two connectors to the switch have burnt shrink wrap. The rocker switches were the weak point. I replaced my rocker switch as a temporary fix until I could get a replacement rocker switch and I got the rocker switch and it is still in the drawer. I know of several older saws that had this problem. Some time ago Jim said that capacitor goes out and can be replaced. If replacing the switch does not work send an email to Model Machines and ask about the availability of a new capacitor or a new motor and capacitor. There is stock and Donna is filling orders for what they have on hand. Kurt
  12. Their catalog- pdf downloadable - has some photos of the models. Do a search on MSW to see about build logs - I believe there will be some to be found. I have personally seen many models of these kits built over the years and I did some restorations of the Lucia Simpson model by a couple of builders for clients and can say the kits can produce nice models. I have seen several of their Challenge and Lucia A Simpson kits as well as a couple of the Edna G tug entered in competition at the WI Maritime Museum contest over the years - one model of the Simpson from their plans just recently got a Gold Medal - It was not this year but recent. Check this URL for some info on a very good model of the Simpson as well as historic photos of the boat. https://www.hrsms.org/Content/model/lucia-a-simpson/ BTW all Great Lakes Vessels are referred to as Boats, even the 1,000 ft ore carriers. BTW the model shown below from the 2024 contest is the Lottie Cooper and the wreck I mentioned in my first post is the Lottie Cooper not the Lucia A Simpson as I mistakenly ID the wreck. Photo of Lottie Cooper a three master lumber schooner by Rocky Groh won a gold medal in class as well as Best Great Lakes Vessel Award in the 2024 contest.
  13. AJ Fisher has several kits - (Advertises in the NRG's Nautical Research Journal) has kits and plans for the following Great Lakes boats. http://ajfisher.com/kits/challenge.htm CHALLENGE Great Lakes Schooner - 1852 - Built in Manitowoc, WI 1/8" = 1' CHAMPION Great Lakes Tug - 1868 1/8" = 1' EDNA G. Great Lakes Tug - 1896 1/8" = 1' LUCIA A. SIMPSON - 3 MAST LAKE SCHOONER - 1875 3/4" = 1' The remaining wreck of the Lucia A. Simpson is on exhibit on the shore of Lake Michigan in Deland Park in Sheboygan, WI (26 miles S of Manitowoc). Shows the construction of the keel, center board and centerboard well and one side of the hull from the keel to about 4-6 ft high. A must visit for anybody researching or building models of Great Lakes sailing boats of the later 1800's.
  14. Bob: I think they are virtually identical from Midwest to Model Shipways. Have compared one of the newer kits manual against one of the older manuals and while I didn't read every word a quick scan shows they look identical. I wrote a series of articles in Ships in Scale magazine starting in mid 2000 through mid 2006 meant to be a how to get started and progress to being an accomplished modeler (Series was done at the request of Clay Feldman the owner and publisher of Ships in Scale). I found the instructions in this series of Midwest kits to be very good especially compared to anything imported at that time. The older series of kits from Midwest have a feature that I hope Model Shipways will add back in is a ranking of the kit's difficulty. They ranked the various kits as Levels 1, 2, 3 and 4 and the rankings in my opinion were right on. Take care, Kurt
×
×
  • Create New...