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kurtvd19
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About kurtvd19
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Trireme Olympias by Richard Braithwaite
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
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Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
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Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
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Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
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Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
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Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
kurtvd19 replied to MintGum's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Harbor Freight sells this saw for about 1/3 or 1/4 of the cost of the Micro Mark version - from the same mfg. Identical except labels - the last time I compared them. I purchased my say several years ago thinking if it got me through the project I was working on with a delivery deadline it was worth it - the tool would pay for itself. I completed the job on time and I still have this little workhorse and it's now at least 10 years old. If it ever dies, I will replace it with another from HF. -
Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
kurtvd19 replied to MintGum's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
They are an exact copy - ripped off after they were selling the original choppers - stopped ordering from NWSL and substituted their ripped off copies. Not the only instance of copying by MM. -
kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
kurtvd19 replied to MintGum's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
NW Short line is the OEM for the Chopper I, II and III Have a Chopper I for at least 25 years. When the base gets a groove from use, I fill the groove with epoxy and level it - good for another 5 years. -
kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Brian: Congratulations on completing a very beautiful model. River towboats are my favorite subject to model and I have been very happy to follow your build. Take care, Kurt
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I highly recommend that the paint manufacturers instructions be followed regarding thinning and only use the recommended thinner. There are way too many suggested alternatives floating around. You don't want to risk your time and effort in building a model to be ruined by an incompatible paint/thinner combination being used. Always test your paint/thinner application on an identical material before committing to your model. I highly recommend airbrushing for best appearances - an airbrush with the proper paint selection provides a scale like appearance much better than a paint brush. A properly thinned paint from an airbrush provides a near scale thickness of paint to the subject. An additional coat of paint just like in real life may be needed to cover thoroughly with much less chance of obscuring details. Take care, Kurt
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The sign looks great Keith.
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I understand that all contestant's have received their judges evaluation sheets. Also, as to a earlier question of showing the non-winning entries it was decided not to show them. Kurt
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Richard: Yellow Ochre powder can be mixed with water or alcohol and "Painted" onto the surfaces where you do not want solder to flow onto during soldering operations. Let it dry and then apply your flux and solder the part. I always use alcohol because the alcohol / yellow ochre solution dries much quicker than when water is used. Yellow Ochre is a flux repellent and where the flux won't go neither will the solder. The solution can be kept in a small jar or other lidded container and if it dries between uses just add water or alcohol to make it liquid again. This will greatly reduce the amount of clean up needed after soldering. I learned about this from Ken Foran's book Modeling With Brass - the 2nd edition has an added section on ship modeling using brass. In my opinion this book belongs in every serious modelers collection - but only after it has been read cover to cover. Take care, Kurt
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I was referring to the lack of free-board. A decent wave would have swamped the ship. I have seen photos of lumber boats on the Great Lakes loaded even higher and there are a lot of them on the bottom to prove they loaded it too high this time.
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I bet those aboard are hoping for clear weather.
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I worked as a Mechanical Engineer back in the late 60s and early 70s in record change and tape recorder mechanisms. We used one of the earliest C/A glues, Eastman 910, to secure rubber parts to metal. I have samples that are as strong as the day they were glued up. Some of the rubber has started to deteriorate, but not adjacent to the glue joint. I have a model ship that was made back in 1988 or 1989 using Bob Smith C/A glue and their accelerator that is here in my house that is in perfect condition. We used C/A for the quick setting as the models were built in Manila and the humidity there is always very high - about 90% - the only time it doesn't feel like 90% is when it is raining and you haven't experienced rain until you experience a SE Asia Monsoon. I trust good C/A especially the Bob Smith brand and don't hesitate to use it where applicable. I do prefer to use Titebond glues due to a longer working time but when I need something to stick right away I reach for the C/A. Kurt
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Not the other day, but when I talked with Donna a few weeks back she gave me the name of a guy looking for a rope walk that contacted her using the contact us option. I don't know if she looks at it every day, but it does get looked at. She most likely has your name on the list for whatever you used the form for.
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Use the "CONTACT US" feature on the web site. She has no stock and I looking to see who wants what when available. When you say extension table to you mean the larger table top? It is a replacement for the stock top that comes with the saw and includes the fence to fit the larger table top. I talked to Donna on Wednesday and she does monitor the website Contact Us area. Kurt
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Just coming aboard a long way into this build. Very interesting as usual. I love the one of a kind builds you do Keith. As to the wrinkles at the top of the aft sign, I think they might be paint blisters almost ready to flake off. Can't be a fabric - the line through the name is a separation gap between two boards - in my opinion. Kurt
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Good 'Hobby Quality' Metal Lathes
kurtvd19 replied to tmj's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The all metal Unimat that YT showed certainly isn't what you can buy today. That's the version I was always saving up for (1960 to 1965) but something else always was needed first. When I got back to modeling it was no longer available like it had been and I went in another direction and eventually got a Taig and then a Sherline.
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