kurtvd19
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St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Lula by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Lula by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
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bridgman reacted to a post in a topic:
Scalpel handles...
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Scalpel handles...
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Lula by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Lula by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Scalpel handles...
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Scalpel handles...
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Glen McGuire reacted to a post in a topic:
Lula by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
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FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic:
Lula by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
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Ryland Craze reacted to a post in a topic:
Scalpel handles...
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Paul Le Wol reacted to a post in a topic:
Lula by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Lula by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
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Don't worry about the hull plank edges not showing. With the overhang of the deck they will be in the shadow of the deck and when you weather the hull it will all blend together. -
These handles are much better regarding comfort. They are available from several sources UMM-USA.com - put "Scalpel" into the search box and hit "enter" - blades and handles will come up. Scroll down a bit. Metal handle is about $8 and the plastic type is $5. I much prefer the metal handle as it is a better fir to my big hands. There are many tools here and John's prices are very good and he's a small business. Amazon is another source.
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The downside I see to keeping models in a cabinet of any type is that when downsizing while the cabinet will have a resale value the models being sold off without a case will have less value. Maybe it's a matter of when you think the cost vs resale value will benefit you the most. I know some modelers who could finance their later years very well by the sale of their models so they get the money instead of their kids or other relatives.
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
What is this tool?
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I always case my models. For many years I made a lot of money repairing uncased models due to kids, animals and the accumulation of dirt on the models. Rigging and sails exposed to the home or office environment take their toll. I always advise modelers and owners to case their models. Maybe not a consideration for modelers, but even with the higher cost of Plexiglas I always urge the owner to case the model because it is cheaper than paying somebody like me to clean and repair their uncased model. Kurt
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Lula by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
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I use acetone. Get a bit undone and using a pipette or eyedropper put some acetone between the sandpaper and the disc. Keep adding the acetone as you peel the sandpaper off. If it's real hard to get the separation started apply some acetone the the top of the disc/sandpaper joint and let it work for a bit and you should be able to get the job started. You don't need a lot of acetone but apply it as you strip off the sandpaper right where the sandpaper is still stuck to the disc. Good luck. Kurt
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I have not been able to see a bunch of smaller boats and have not seen anything like this but there are only a few ways to transmit the steering to the rudders and small boats used simple arrangements. Rope around the steering wheel drum down through the floor to pulleys from the roof (directly under the wheel) to pulleys close to the left and right walls of the engine room to about the middle of the engine room and then through pulleys back to the center area of the engine room and then attached to the end of each tiller. Simple and fool proof. Tugs used the same arrangement and ran the ropes to the side of the structure and to the pulleys going astern where they were attached to chains that ran in a trough to the stern where they attached to the steering quadrant. The chain troughs were covered with a lid to keep out most of the rain and snow so the chains didn't freeze in water. Sometimes the troughs were above the deck instead of inlaid into them and drain holes were provided to drain any water. Many different ways were provided to transmit the steering input to the rudders, but what Eric described is simple and the most likely method used. Kurt
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I believe Eric is 100% correct. This is the only way I can see that the steering can work. I have been working nonstop on some NRG stuff plus a model commission that has been taking up all my time. Just saw the rudder question today or I would have commented as Eric did. Kurt
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Lula by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - 1870s Sternwheeler Supply Boat for Floating Pile Driver
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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Make the door swing out. Or consider swapping door and window as Keith mentioned - for visibility for the Capt. Kurt
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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Bruce: Just had time to actually look at your build log (11-18-24) and am now following along (11-04-24). Great attention to detail. Will be going back to day 1 and catch up. Take care, Kurt
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They have had this promo going for a long time. I think it is a great promo and should encourage more builds. Kurt
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I would recommend centering the stack as well as the wheel. The Capt would stand to one side or the other and operate the wheel from directly behind the handles on the spokes. Some wheels were quite tall and it was much easier to operate the wheel from one side or the other. Being offset to steer makes the issue of seeing around the stack unimportant. These boats and especially if pushing a barge required the Capt. to be looking way out in front of the boat or the Boat/Barge tow. The throttle and whistle controls were offset to one side or the other or provided on both sides of the wheel thus making the operation of the wheel from behind the spoke handles. This has carried over to this day. Kurt
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Beginner - Rigging Tools
kurtvd19 replied to nheather's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Nigel: We have some meetings where we bring our favorite tools to discuss. The Loom A Line (LoL) has never once been brought to a meeting as a favorite tool. In fact one meeting night I added a sub topic "Bring a tool that should never have been made or purchased. Three (3) brought Loom A Lines! For a very good reason - it is useless. Better to set up a jig to hold the mast with space below for the dead eyes and aligned as per the plans. They are most of the time at angles - at the most only one shroud will be directly line up with the dead eye's position per the plans using the LoL. There is one other jig for doing what the LoL is supposed to do and that is the jig available from Model Expo that has adjustments for the dead eyes as well as height adjustment. I stick with doing the rigging off the model but using the actual mast and locating the dead eyes below per the plan. Kurt -
Absolute beginner here - new to ship modeling
kurtvd19 replied to AlanR's topic in New member Introductions
I definitely back up this recommendation highly and further suggest you skip the plastic lens versions & get glass lenses - a bit more $ but later when you really need them you will be glad you spent the extra $. I am at the stage now that I am going to hang them next to my shop door so they are the first thing I grab and the last thing I put away. Kurt -
I vote for either one over the Tennessee. Surely somebody has built the Tennessee before - I don't remember a garbage scow though. Kurt
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I think you are going to enjoy this build. Kurt
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