kurtvd19
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Portland Scale Ship Co. news and updates
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Trireme Olympias by Richard Braithwaite
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BYRNES – MODEL MACHINES - ROPE WALK This machine is complete with Instructions, extra Take-up Reels, Belts, Centering Dies and Feed Spools. Used but not abused. Available for $300 or Best Offer. Will package and ship for the cost of shipping – will provide quotes for USPS, UPS and FED-X – you pick the shipper. Located 26 miles west of Chicago if you want to pick it up. Reply here if interested. Not my photo - from instructions.
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
J H Crawford by LJP (Lawrence Paplham) - Scale 1:64 - an 1894 to 1898 Wisconsin sternwheeler
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TK1 reacted to a post in a topic:
2025 NRG PHOTOGRAPHIC SHIP MODEL CONTEST WINNERS ANNOUNCED
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Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Trireme Olympias by Richard Braithwaite
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Richard Braithwaite reacted to a post in a topic:
Trireme Olympias by Richard Braithwaite
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Richard: I switched to Stay-Brite solder at Ken's urging when I quit making radio control boats where the strength was needed to resist the action of water against the rudder and in control arms controlling rudders to turn. Some shafts required strength - like the rudder shaft. There is nothing on a static ship model that requires the strength of silver solder. Stay-Brite is a high silver content solder so it blackens nicely using various blackening agents just like regular silver solder. With the various attachments you had to make on the ram, silver solder might still have been necessary but I would have tried Stay-Brite and some heat sinks just for the ease of not messing with silver solder. Since switching to Stay-Brite and using Yyllow ochre (again from Ken) I find it so much easier and a lot less cleaning up of excess solder. The ram will not be left as bare brass so fillets could be made with any type of filler. I am sure you will find Ken's book well worth the cost. Take care, Kurt
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Absolutely! To good effect - when that's the wanted result.
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Eric: I hope you made a note of the colors used for the mixture to get the color in case it is needed later to match a repair. I am assuming your text mention of "mix" refers to the finished color but realize it could refer to the mix of colors on the building as a whole. I have found that keeping a record of paints used on any build is a good idea for later reference of what color was used for a particular build or part. Kurt
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Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
kurtvd19 replied to MintGum's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Harbor Freight sells this saw for about 1/3 or 1/4 of the cost of the Micro Mark version - from the same mfg. Identical except labels - the last time I compared them. I purchased my say several years ago thinking if it got me through the project I was working on with a delivery deadline it was worth it - the tool would pay for itself. I completed the job on time and I still have this little workhorse and it's now at least 10 years old. If it ever dies, I will replace it with another from HF. -
Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
kurtvd19 replied to MintGum's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
They are an exact copy - ripped off after they were selling the original choppers - stopped ordering from NWSL and substituted their ripped off copies. Not the only instance of copying by MM. -
Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
kurtvd19 replied to MintGum's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
NW Short line is the OEM for the Chopper I, II and III Have a Chopper I for at least 25 years. When the base gets a groove from use, I fill the groove with epoxy and level it - good for another 5 years. -
Brian: Congratulations on completing a very beautiful model. River towboats are my favorite subject to model and I have been very happy to follow your build. Take care, Kurt
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I highly recommend that the paint manufacturers instructions be followed regarding thinning and only use the recommended thinner. There are way too many suggested alternatives floating around. You don't want to risk your time and effort in building a model to be ruined by an incompatible paint/thinner combination being used. Always test your paint/thinner application on an identical material before committing to your model. I highly recommend airbrushing for best appearances - an airbrush with the proper paint selection provides a scale like appearance much better than a paint brush. A properly thinned paint from an airbrush provides a near scale thickness of paint to the subject. An additional coat of paint just like in real life may be needed to cover thoroughly with much less chance of obscuring details. Take care, Kurt
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The sign looks great Keith.
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I understand that all contestant's have received their judges evaluation sheets. Also, as to a earlier question of showing the non-winning entries it was decided not to show them. Kurt
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Richard: Yellow Ochre powder can be mixed with water or alcohol and "Painted" onto the surfaces where you do not want solder to flow onto during soldering operations. Let it dry and then apply your flux and solder the part. I always use alcohol because the alcohol / yellow ochre solution dries much quicker than when water is used. Yellow Ochre is a flux repellent and where the flux won't go neither will the solder. The solution can be kept in a small jar or other lidded container and if it dries between uses just add water or alcohol to make it liquid again. This will greatly reduce the amount of clean up needed after soldering. I learned about this from Ken Foran's book Modeling With Brass - the 2nd edition has an added section on ship modeling using brass. In my opinion this book belongs in every serious modelers collection - but only after it has been read cover to cover. Take care, Kurt
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I was referring to the lack of free-board. A decent wave would have swamped the ship. I have seen photos of lumber boats on the Great Lakes loaded even higher and there are a lot of them on the bottom to prove they loaded it too high this time.
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I bet those aboard are hoping for clear weather.
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I worked as a Mechanical Engineer back in the late 60s and early 70s in record change and tape recorder mechanisms. We used one of the earliest C/A glues, Eastman 910, to secure rubber parts to metal. I have samples that are as strong as the day they were glued up. Some of the rubber has started to deteriorate, but not adjacent to the glue joint. I have a model ship that was made back in 1988 or 1989 using Bob Smith C/A glue and their accelerator that is here in my house that is in perfect condition. We used C/A for the quick setting as the models were built in Manila and the humidity there is always very high - about 90% - the only time it doesn't feel like 90% is when it is raining and you haven't experienced rain until you experience a SE Asia Monsoon. I trust good C/A especially the Bob Smith brand and don't hesitate to use it where applicable. I do prefer to use Titebond glues due to a longer working time but when I need something to stick right away I reach for the C/A. Kurt
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