kurtvd19

Thanks Kevin. Very interesting.

I use the top - smooth side of my thumbnail to burnish the tape down. Avoid using the bare finger because you can transfer skin oils to the surface causing issues with the paint adhesion.

I have the same tool bought 20 years ago from Micro-Mark. My tool is red otherwise identical. I have found it to be the perfect size for my needs and it has been worth every penny I have invested in it - though I have no idea of how much I paid back then. It has been altered to incorporate a micrometer feed for the shear. It has an extension to enable very small strips to be cut. I will get it out and take a few photos of it concentrating on the micrometer feed mechanism - might be a day or two till I get to it. Kurt

See Page 4 of the rules - ENTRY DETAILS & DEADLINE. July 31, 2025

The Board of Directors of the Nautical Research Guild is pleased to announce the 2025 Photographic Ship Competition. The last NRG model photo competition was in 2021. Just like last time your photographs will be submitted on-line. Gold, Silver and Bronze medals will be awarded for the First, Second and Third place models in three categories: Novice, Apprentice and Master, and a Best of Show medal will be awarded to the best Gold medal winner. The competition is open to all Regular Members in good standing of the Nautical Research Guild. We have established a reduced fee $20.00 membership open to Non-members who wish to participate in the 2025 Photographic Ship Model Competition. The special half-price membership entitles the new member to receive the digital Nautical Research Journal and all membership privileges for one year. The fee is still only $30 per model entered and entrants will also receive a written review of their model. Winners will be announced at the Annual Member’s Meeting. The contest rules and entry forms are on the NRG website. https://thenrg.org/contests Download the rules and entry forms and follow the directions to enter. A separate entry form is required for each model entered.

Congratulations Keith on the completion of a great build. I can't wait to see Lula paired with the pile driver. I would love to see this model in person to admire the subtle final weathering details. Great to think of making the hull and wheel "wet". Take care, Kurt

I agree that a steel hull would be less likely to require full length hog chains as longitudinal stiffening can be incorporated into the hull structure. Also a lake boat with the ability to have a deeper draft could be more heavily built eliminating the need for hog chains. However, as show with the Verity some additional support is required for the stern wheel. I have been aboard the Verity many times but until I can find old 35mm negatives of the interior I can't positively rule out internal hog chains, though I doubt it was so equipped. I have seen many photographs of hog chains run through interior spaces; even in palatial riverboats. In general terms I am pretty sure your statements are accurate. I wish I could call a couple of old friends to ask as they would have the answers at hand. Thinking of Ralph DuPae, Jim Swift and Alan Bates. I have been trying to contact another old friend that unlike the three I just mentioned was alive the last time I was able to check. Jack Custer was the Editor and Publisher of the Egregious Steamboat Journal and knew an awful lot about steamboat history and construction, especially for a professor of Latin! He was working on some drawings showing internal hog chain use, both longitudinal and cross ways. Most don't know that many boats had cross wise hog chains in addition to longitudinal. Jack was preparing a paper for the NRG's Journal. My phone calls go unanswered and the it gives me hope as the number is operating not disconnected.

Learning from each other is what makes MSW so valuable. Kurt

That's a good catch about the broom. That is in keeping with the NRG's motto - Advancing Ship Modeling Through Research".

I have used C/A glue by Bob Smith Industries (BSI) for over 20 years with complete satisfaction. Many places sell BSI glues under the stores name. Same design of the label except for a silver label with the store's name on it across the top. This is a very high quality glue and if properly stored will last a very long time. Recap when done for the day and keep it away from excess humidity. Dole out a few drops and recap using a C/A applicator until the drops dry up or run out. I buy several bottles at a time and keep the sealed up glue in my shop freezer for a couple of years sometimes. Open it and it works perfectly. The only problem I have ever had have been because of forgetting to recap the bottle for an extended time or keeping an open bottle in close proximity to C/A accelerator for an extended time. I try to keep the accelerator far away from the C/A being used - at least 2 feet. I keep several types of the BSI C/A glues as they have very different by very repeatable and predictable setting times. I mostly use the Super Thin and Gap Filling Medium glues in 1oz bottles. I also use the BSI Epoxy glues for all my epoxy needs. I forgot to add a tip to working with C/A glue and other odors that has made my life much better since I found a small 6" fan that I have on a shelf at the back of the workbench and to my left that I turn on whenever working with glues or soldering. I used to get bad headaches when I used C/A glues even with lots of space, good ventilation, ceiling fan and windows in good weather. I aim the fan to blow the fumes away from my face and this has eliminated the headaches. Kurt

I love Alaskan Yellow Cedar. Chuck recommended it to me some time ago and I have been using it for my building. At a scale of 1:12 it looks just like yellow pine on a canal boat model that was built with yellow pine and Oak. I used Birch for the Oak as it passes very well for Oak at 1:12. The woods both look just like the woods used on the boat. I think you will like the Alaskan yellow cedar.

Congratulations Ryland.

Oh no! two more photos to be ripped off to sell crap blocks! They are really nice Chuck. Kurt

For real clean cuts sandwich the brass or other soft metal between thin sheets of plywood and run them through your Preac, Byrnes or other small saw. I usually have a sandwich of Ply with a metal inner sheet glued together so when I need to cut a thin strip I can do so w/o delay. I used to use Duco Glue and dissolve the glue on the sandwich in Acetone but I now use Weldbond II or III and use Isopropyl Alcohol as the solvent. No burrs or wavy edges at all. Kurt

The size for use on a Preac is two-inch diameter. You have a saw blade, check it for the arbor size. I have an adapter for a larger arbor size that was purchased with the saw when new (early 90's NRG Conference) that enables use of a blade with a larger arbor hole - look carefully at your to see if it is equipped with the adapter as it gives a better choice of blades. Do a search here on MSW for a replacement supplier for Thurston Blades that were the original Preac blades. Somebody has the same sizes required. I will most likely never need to buy any as I have an adequate stock to last a long time. Kurt