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kurtvd19
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About kurtvd19
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Couple of modeling related painting questions
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
J H Crawford by LJP (Lawrence Paplham) - Scale 1:64 - an 1894 to 1898 Wisconsin sternwheeler
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Caroline N by mbp521 - FINISHED - Scale 1:64 - Mississippi River Towboat
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Caroline N by mbp521 - FINISHED - Scale 1:64 - Mississippi River Towboat
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
J H Crawford by LJP (Lawrence Paplham) - Scale 1:64 - an 1894 to 1898 Wisconsin sternwheeler
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Cathead reacted to a post in a topic:
Caroline N by mbp521 - FINISHED - Scale 1:64 - Mississippi River Towboat
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Brian: Congratulations on completing a very beautiful model. River towboats are my favorite subject to model and I have been very happy to follow your build. Take care, Kurt -
kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
J H Crawford by LJP (Lawrence Paplham) - Scale 1:64 - an 1894 to 1898 Wisconsin sternwheeler
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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Paul Le Wol reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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cotrecerf reacted to a post in a topic:
Couple of modeling related painting questions
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
Couple of modeling related painting questions
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Rich Sloop reacted to a post in a topic:
Couple of modeling related painting questions
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I highly recommend that the paint manufacturers instructions be followed regarding thinning and only use the recommended thinner. There are way too many suggested alternatives floating around. You don't want to risk your time and effort in building a model to be ruined by an incompatible paint/thinner combination being used. Always test your paint/thinner application on an identical material before committing to your model. I highly recommend airbrushing for best appearances - an airbrush with the proper paint selection provides a scale like appearance much better than a paint brush. A properly thinned paint from an airbrush provides a near scale thickness of paint to the subject. An additional coat of paint just like in real life may be needed to cover thoroughly with much less chance of obscuring details. Take care, Kurt
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thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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The sign looks great Keith.
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kurtvd19 reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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I understand that all contestant's have received their judges evaluation sheets. Also, as to a earlier question of showing the non-winning entries it was decided not to show them. Kurt
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Richard: Yellow Ochre powder can be mixed with water or alcohol and "Painted" onto the surfaces where you do not want solder to flow onto during soldering operations. Let it dry and then apply your flux and solder the part. I always use alcohol because the alcohol / yellow ochre solution dries much quicker than when water is used. Yellow Ochre is a flux repellent and where the flux won't go neither will the solder. The solution can be kept in a small jar or other lidded container and if it dries between uses just add water or alcohol to make it liquid again. This will greatly reduce the amount of clean up needed after soldering. I learned about this from Ken Foran's book Modeling With Brass - the 2nd edition has an added section on ship modeling using brass. In my opinion this book belongs in every serious modelers collection - but only after it has been read cover to cover. Take care, Kurt
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I was referring to the lack of free-board. A decent wave would have swamped the ship. I have seen photos of lumber boats on the Great Lakes loaded even higher and there are a lot of them on the bottom to prove they loaded it too high this time.
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I bet those aboard are hoping for clear weather.
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I worked as a Mechanical Engineer back in the late 60s and early 70s in record change and tape recorder mechanisms. We used one of the earliest C/A glues, Eastman 910, to secure rubber parts to metal. I have samples that are as strong as the day they were glued up. Some of the rubber has started to deteriorate, but not adjacent to the glue joint. I have a model ship that was made back in 1988 or 1989 using Bob Smith C/A glue and their accelerator that is here in my house that is in perfect condition. We used C/A for the quick setting as the models were built in Manila and the humidity there is always very high - about 90% - the only time it doesn't feel like 90% is when it is raining and you haven't experienced rain until you experience a SE Asia Monsoon. I trust good C/A especially the Bob Smith brand and don't hesitate to use it where applicable. I do prefer to use Titebond glues due to a longer working time but when I need something to stick right away I reach for the C/A. Kurt
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Not the other day, but when I talked with Donna a few weeks back she gave me the name of a guy looking for a rope walk that contacted her using the contact us option. I don't know if she looks at it every day, but it does get looked at. She most likely has your name on the list for whatever you used the form for.
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Use the "CONTACT US" feature on the web site. She has no stock and I looking to see who wants what when available. When you say extension table to you mean the larger table top? It is a replacement for the stock top that comes with the saw and includes the fence to fit the larger table top. I talked to Donna on Wednesday and she does monitor the website Contact Us area. Kurt
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Just coming aboard a long way into this build. Very interesting as usual. I love the one of a kind builds you do Keith. As to the wrinkles at the top of the aft sign, I think they might be paint blisters almost ready to flake off. Can't be a fabric - the line through the name is a separation gap between two boards - in my opinion. Kurt
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Good 'Hobby Quality' Metal Lathes
kurtvd19 replied to tmj's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The all metal Unimat that YT showed certainly isn't what you can buy today. That's the version I was always saving up for (1960 to 1965) but something else always was needed first. When I got back to modeling it was no longer available like it had been and I went in another direction and eventually got a Taig and then a Sherline. -
Good 'Hobby Quality' Metal Lathes
kurtvd19 replied to tmj's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have owned both a Taig and a Sherline lathe. Both are excellent machines. The Taig will do all you want - the only reason I got the Sherline though was because the price was just about free - couldn't turn it down, but I can't do anything with the Sherline I can't do with the Taig. I am not a machinist and only a machinist can use a Sherline to it's full capacity. Kurt -
Surprisingly good and cheap mini tools
kurtvd19 replied to Johnny Mike's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
What is the brand and where did you purchase it? Also, did you make the disc sander? If not who made it and where did you buy it? I can check out the sources and see if they are interested in becoming MSW sponsors. Take care, Kurt -
I don't know. I judged but wasn't involved in the management of it. I will ask.
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