kurtvd19

OK.  I could never get a jewelers draw plate to work on wood. 

I think you will be disappointed as these are meant to compress wire rather than removing material.   The wire get longer as it is reduced in diameter.  Search for this topic as draw plates have been discussed.
Byrnes Model Machines makes a very good draw plate that works great for wood. 

OK.  I could never get a jewelers draw plate to work on wood. 

I think you will be disappointed as these are meant to compress wire rather than removing material.   The wire get longer as it is reduced in diameter.  Search for this topic as draw plates have been discussed.
Byrnes Model Machines makes a very good draw plate that works great for wood. 

OK.  I could never get a jewelers draw plate to work on wood. 

OK.  I could never get a jewelers draw plate to work on wood. 

I think you will be disappointed as these are meant to compress wire rather than removing material.   The wire get longer as it is reduced in diameter.  Search for this topic as draw plates have been discussed.
Byrnes Model Machines makes a very good draw plate that works great for wood. 

I think you will be disappointed as these are meant to compress wire rather than removing material.   The wire get longer as it is reduced in diameter.  Search for this topic as draw plates have been discussed.
Byrnes Model Machines makes a very good draw plate that works great for wood. 

I think you will be disappointed as these are meant to compress wire rather than removing material.   The wire get longer as it is reduced in diameter.  Search for this topic as draw plates have been discussed.
Byrnes Model Machines makes a very good draw plate that works great for wood. 

A very impressive video presentation, Mr. Budzik!

I have made some progress on my Longboat and I shared this with the members of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey during last nights Zoom meeting.  The mast has been finished by adding the simulated  iron bands and eyebolts.  I made the two upper iron bands using 1/16" wide chart tape and then formed the eyebolts using 22 gauge wire.  I then weathered the iron bands and eyebolts with Tamyia rust weathering powder to give it some contrast.
 

 
For the lower iron band, I used some black masking tape cut into a 3/32" wide strip and then made an eyebolt using 18 gauge wire.  The hook in the boom was also made using 18 gauge wire.
 

 
I also added the knees and belaying pins.  The knees were painted off the model and then glued to the thwarts.  I used some 1/16" wide chart tape to help align them onto the thwart before gluing.  The belaying pins were turned using my dremel and some small files.

 
The horse was made using the supplied 20 gauge wire.  It was blackened and then a 1/4" block was seized to the horse before attaching the horse to the stern.
 

 
My next step is to fit the pedestals that came with the engraved base from Syren Ship Model Company to the hull.  I feel it would be difficult to handle the hull while trying to install the pedestals with the mast and rigging installed. 

Beaders/Jewelers use a piece called a "crimp" with special pliers to attach the crimp and lock the wires in place.  Small diameter tube - various finishes - put the end of the wire through the crimp, thread on the eyebolt, hook or turnbuckle and put the end of the wire back through the crimp and crimp the tube with the pliers and cut the excess wire off.
 
The photo shows a crimp at the top of the turnbuckle on the wire rigging line.  This is a 1:12 scale model with 7 strand SS wire about 0.015 diameter. 

The technique that I have been using for a fine scribed line is to scribe though the final finish layer into the underlying primer.  These two scratch built aircraft were done using this technique: 
 

 

 
I describe the technique in this video:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRnKEwsQSaQ

Beaders/Jewelers use a piece called a "crimp" with special pliers to attach the crimp and lock the wires in place.  Small diameter tube - various finishes - put the end of the wire through the crimp, thread on the eyebolt, hook or turnbuckle and put the end of the wire back through the crimp and crimp the tube with the pliers and cut the excess wire off.
 
The photo shows a crimp at the top of the turnbuckle on the wire rigging line.  This is a 1:12 scale model with 7 strand SS wire about 0.015 diameter. 

I had a long history with Floquil.  It was the only hobby paint I used.  Awhile back I put up a web page just about Floquil.  I have a PDF of the original "little red book" that Floquil published explaining their paint and how to use it.  I also have the original railroad color chart up as well.
 
The web page is here: http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/floquil-paint/floquil-paint.html
 

Welcome to MSW Bud. 

Thanks every one for the suggestions! I ended up leaving the net off, maybe I could add it in later but I don’t have the urge to do it now. 
 
So I’m pretty much done with the first one and I’m happy with the results! I started by trying to create a weathering look on the dory before installing the seat risers, I gave it ten coats of hair spray followed by a semi gloss white spray paint. Once every thing was dry I used several different wire brushes and some water to create the look I was after. Here is the first coat of paint:

 
I wasn’t very happy with the results, by the time I achieved the textural lines in the wood I was wanting the paint was almost entirely gone. 
 
I mixed some grey paint and water at a ration about 1:15 and painted it on there. I practiced a few times before applying this wash but the results were great, again. I gave it a light sanding with extra fine steel wool and painted it white again, here it is after the second coat:
 


 
I was pretty happy with the overall result of my paint job, the inside I only painted once and thought it was pretty good, here it is:
 

 
I installed the seat risers next, but from this point forward I stained and weather any laser cut pieces before glueing them in place. Here are the risers:
 

 
A small notch is to be cut into the tip of the frames and side cleats to make way for the gunwale, I measured this notch to be .06 inches so I cut those out and got the gunwale installed:
 

 
The breast hook was next, I didn’t get a picture of it but there was a small gap around the back of the breast hook. This gap was covered by the cap rail so it didn’t end up being an issue. Here is the cap rail: 
 

 
The seats were next, before I glued them down I made sure to weather these more than the rest, I don’t think it made much of a difference in the end, but getting the seats in there really brought it all together. Here is where we are at:
 



 
I still have a few things to clean up on this model and then I’ll mount it, and move on to the next one. Thanks again for the support. 
 
Bradley 

Welcome to MSW Bud. 

Beaders/Jewelers use a piece called a "crimp" with special pliers to attach the crimp and lock the wires in place.  Small diameter tube - various finishes - put the end of the wire through the crimp, thread on the eyebolt, hook or turnbuckle and put the end of the wire back through the crimp and crimp the tube with the pliers and cut the excess wire off.
 
The photo shows a crimp at the top of the turnbuckle on the wire rigging line.  This is a 1:12 scale model with 7 strand SS wire about 0.015 diameter. 

Beaders/Jewelers use a piece called a "crimp" with special pliers to attach the crimp and lock the wires in place.  Small diameter tube - various finishes - put the end of the wire through the crimp, thread on the eyebolt, hook or turnbuckle and put the end of the wire back through the crimp and crimp the tube with the pliers and cut the excess wire off.
 
The photo shows a crimp at the top of the turnbuckle on the wire rigging line.  This is a 1:12 scale model with 7 strand SS wire about 0.015 diameter. 

Beaders/Jewelers use a piece called a "crimp" with special pliers to attach the crimp and lock the wires in place.  Small diameter tube - various finishes - put the end of the wire through the crimp, thread on the eyebolt, hook or turnbuckle and put the end of the wire back through the crimp and crimp the tube with the pliers and cut the excess wire off.
 
The photo shows a crimp at the top of the turnbuckle on the wire rigging line.  This is a 1:12 scale model with 7 strand SS wire about 0.015 diameter. 

Hi Mark and welcome to Model Ship World. You have received some good advice on selecting your first ship model.  If you are a complete beginner, you may want to check out this ship model kit:
This model is designed for the first time modeler and you can get a version that includes all of the tools and supplies needed to complete the model.

Check out the great weathering on the model by FriedClams - should help you
 

New Shipwright’s Series from Model Shipways
 
NORWEGIAN SAILING PRAM  -  Kit #MS1471
    Skill Level 2
    Scale 1:12   
Overall length 12 1/2 inches - Overall Height 15 1/2 inches  -  Baseboard 3 1/2 inches x 7 inches
This kit is the second in the new Shipwright’s Series of progressive model tutorials designed by David Antscherl for Model Shipways a division of Model Expo. These kits fill a void in our hobby for simple but good kits that teach the new model builders the necessary skills to enable them to move on to build bigger more complex kits.
 
                                                                                        Photo of finished model by Model Shipways

For many years, Midwest Model Products manufactured a great series of kits that were designated as Level 1 through Level 4 designed to teach the beginner wood boat modeler the basic skills a wooden boat modeler needs to learn. New ownership cancelled the line several years ago and the hobby has needed replacements which Model Shipways is now providing with the new Shipwright’s Series.
 
 
The Norwegian Sailing Pram kit is labeled as a Skill Level 2 kit and the instructions say, “For this second, intermediate kit, some previous knowledge is necessary in order to be successful”. The first kit in the series, labeled as a Skill Level 1 kit is a 1:24 scale Lowell Grand Banks Dory and the instructions say, “For this introductory kit, no previous knowledge is assumed or necessary”. (The Lowell Grand Banks Dory is reviewed separately here on MSW).
 
 
A nice feature of the kit series is the listing of all tools needed to build each kit. This kit lists the same tools as the Dory kit with several additional tools needed and a couple optional tools that while nice are not truly needed for this kit.
Unpacking the box finds a full color 43 page instruction manual, a list of all the parts contained in the box, nine sheets of laser cut Basswood, cloth for the sail, a plastic bag containing three diameters of nylon rigging line, a small sheet of photo etch, a bag of 16 Brass nails, a 3” piece of 24 gauge Copper wire, a 3” piece of 1/16” Bras rod, a 3” piece of 1/23” Brass rod and a 3” piece of Brass tube. Also included is a bag with four oarlocks and 3 rigging clips. These parts are of cast Britannia with the rigging clips being free of flash or mold lines and the oarlocks showing some very even and easily removed mold lines on the outer edges. Overall, the materials are very good.
 
The instructions for this kit like all the instructions for Model Shipways kits are downloadable as a pdf from the Model Expo website. https://modelexpo-online.com/
 
I highly recommend the new Shipwright series of kits from Model Shipways. I recommend this kit for the second kit to build from the series. If you are asked by a fledging modeler to recommend a good kit to start with I have no hesitation in recommending that they be told to look at the new Shipwright’s Series and that this kit be number two right after the Lowell Grand Banks Dory kit.
 
A separate paint kit is available from Model Shipways (#MS1471MS - Model Shipways Norwegian Sailing Pram Paint Set). The paint set Includes 4 1oz bottle of each color.  Colors included are Warm White, Hull Bottom Copper Red, Primer and Clear Satin Protective finish.
 
 
 
 
 

New Shipwright’s Series from Model Shipways
 
NORWEGIAN SAILING PRAM  -  Kit #MS1471
    Skill Level 2
    Scale 1:12   
Overall length 12 1/2 inches - Overall Height 15 1/2 inches  -  Baseboard 3 1/2 inches x 7 inches
This kit is the second in the new Shipwright’s Series of progressive model tutorials designed by David Antscherl for Model Shipways a division of Model Expo. These kits fill a void in our hobby for simple but good kits that teach the new model builders the necessary skills to enable them to move on to build bigger more complex kits.
 
                                                                                        Photo of finished model by Model Shipways

For many years, Midwest Model Products manufactured a great series of kits that were designated as Level 1 through Level 4 designed to teach the beginner wood boat modeler the basic skills a wooden boat modeler needs to learn. New ownership cancelled the line several years ago and the hobby has needed replacements which Model Shipways is now providing with the new Shipwright’s Series.
 
 
The Norwegian Sailing Pram kit is labeled as a Skill Level 2 kit and the instructions say, “For this second, intermediate kit, some previous knowledge is necessary in order to be successful”. The first kit in the series, labeled as a Skill Level 1 kit is a 1:24 scale Lowell Grand Banks Dory and the instructions say, “For this introductory kit, no previous knowledge is assumed or necessary”. (The Lowell Grand Banks Dory is reviewed separately here on MSW).
 
 
A nice feature of the kit series is the listing of all tools needed to build each kit. This kit lists the same tools as the Dory kit with several additional tools needed and a couple optional tools that while nice are not truly needed for this kit.
Unpacking the box finds a full color 43 page instruction manual, a list of all the parts contained in the box, nine sheets of laser cut Basswood, cloth for the sail, a plastic bag containing three diameters of nylon rigging line, a small sheet of photo etch, a bag of 16 Brass nails, a 3” piece of 24 gauge Copper wire, a 3” piece of 1/16” Bras rod, a 3” piece of 1/23” Brass rod and a 3” piece of Brass tube. Also included is a bag with four oarlocks and 3 rigging clips. These parts are of cast Britannia with the rigging clips being free of flash or mold lines and the oarlocks showing some very even and easily removed mold lines on the outer edges. Overall, the materials are very good.
 
The instructions for this kit like all the instructions for Model Shipways kits are downloadable as a pdf from the Model Expo website. https://modelexpo-online.com/
 
I highly recommend the new Shipwright series of kits from Model Shipways. I recommend this kit for the second kit to build from the series. If you are asked by a fledging modeler to recommend a good kit to start with I have no hesitation in recommending that they be told to look at the new Shipwright’s Series and that this kit be number two right after the Lowell Grand Banks Dory kit.
 
A separate paint kit is available from Model Shipways (#MS1471MS - Model Shipways Norwegian Sailing Pram Paint Set). The paint set Includes 4 1oz bottle of each color.  Colors included are Warm White, Hull Bottom Copper Red, Primer and Clear Satin Protective finish.