dafi

I've been busy lately and haven't had much time to tinker. But the list of blocks to be used on the Vic and the corresponding rope thicknesses has finally been finalized. Time to check some of them out. As the blocks are sorted by yards and other locations, here is the block set for the main yard.



Since the main yard has already been started, I've taken on its lifts. First the hangers. As usually served with white glue and black paint.



The loop underneath the cap that holds the hanger together.



And here the assembly on a spare mast cap.



More hopefully soon.

XXXDAn

I've been busy lately and haven't had much time to tinker. But the list of blocks to be used on the Vic and the corresponding rope thicknesses has finally been finalized. Time to check some of them out. As the blocks are sorted by yards and other locations, here is the block set for the main yard.



Since the main yard has already been started, I've taken on its lifts. First the hangers. As usually served with white glue and black paint.



The loop underneath the cap that holds the hanger together.



And here the assembly on a spare mast cap.



More hopefully soon.

XXXDAn

I've been busy lately and haven't had much time to tinker. But the list of blocks to be used on the Vic and the corresponding rope thicknesses has finally been finalized. Time to check some of them out. As the blocks are sorted by yards and other locations, here is the block set for the main yard.



Since the main yard has already been started, I've taken on its lifts. First the hangers. As usually served with white glue and black paint.



The loop underneath the cap that holds the hanger together.



And here the assembly on a spare mast cap.



More hopefully soon.

XXXDAn

I've been busy lately and haven't had much time to tinker. But the list of blocks to be used on the Vic and the corresponding rope thicknesses has finally been finalized. Time to check some of them out. As the blocks are sorted by yards and other locations, here is the block set for the main yard.



Since the main yard has already been started, I've taken on its lifts. First the hangers. As usually served with white glue and black paint.



The loop underneath the cap that holds the hanger together.



And here the assembly on a spare mast cap.



More hopefully soon.

XXXDAn

Thank you Sirs, as always, very appreciated!
 
@Hubrac: be aware, binding technique is the same, but none of these features are to be found on your Soleil, as they are much more recent 🙂
 
XXXDAn
 
 

I've been busy lately and haven't had much time to tinker. But the list of blocks to be used on the Vic and the corresponding rope thicknesses has finally been finalized. Time to check some of them out. As the blocks are sorted by yards and other locations, here is the block set for the main yard.



Since the main yard has already been started, I've taken on its lifts. First the hangers. As usually served with white glue and black paint.



The loop underneath the cap that holds the hanger together.



And here the assembly on a spare mast cap.



More hopefully soon.

XXXDAn

I've been busy lately and haven't had much time to tinker. But the list of blocks to be used on the Vic and the corresponding rope thicknesses has finally been finalized. Time to check some of them out. As the blocks are sorted by yards and other locations, here is the block set for the main yard.



Since the main yard has already been started, I've taken on its lifts. First the hangers. As usually served with white glue and black paint.



The loop underneath the cap that holds the hanger together.



And here the assembly on a spare mast cap.



More hopefully soon.

XXXDAn

In the old days you had to be either short or tall - nothing between! Three stretcher positions are a positive luxury.

This model has been perfect for working on my rigging capabilities.  I have spent a bit of time off line working on learning / remembering / identifying what is the Mark Krug way of doing things.  Also the ship needed a lot of clean up and various bits and bobs put to right.
 
My midterm (freshman year) was to get those main stays configured and put into place.  All this was scratch - the Heller kit does not include any heart blocks.  I also reconfigured the marine walk a bit for the preventer stay.  Things seem to be coalescing well.
 

I rigged up everything off ship - just required the last seizing once installed.

Both main stays installed.  I am happy with the length to blocks and the look.  Unfortunately the loop seized to was a tad bit too low and got mostly lost in the grating.

Everything checks out.  I will be adding the stay to stay weave.
 
Now onto the fore stays.  These also will have open and closed hearts added.
Mark

Well, the process worked out and it was pretty easy also.  First shot shows the mouse and at the desired distance laid in an eyelet in the thread.

I then looped around the mainmast head and fed the lower end of the stay through the eyelet and fed it up until it was stopped by the mouse.  It had the look and seemed right at home.

Second line was a repeat of the first.  I offset the eyelet a little farther in to provide some separation.  No glue required here, that join will not loosen up under just minimal tension.

Finally the money shot of the two stays.  Next up is the heart block at the lower end of the stays.  I am also in the process of modifying the walk to allow the two lines for the preventer stay to pass through better.  I am actually going to interweave the two stays since I believe that look is also pretty iconic when you view pics of the Victory.

So many things I want to do, just need to focus on one at a time (maybe two haha - that foremast breast backstay add is pretty easy and straightforward).
Stay building my friends, Mark

A quick discussion of my aims and direction:
The following are my goals for this build:
       Get better in MODELING rigging o   Sometimes not the same as actual ship rigging
          Learn the nomenclature better          Don’t sweat the details (vague – I know) o   Not an exact replication of the Victory, but close as practical (in Krug terms)
o   Don’t turn the Heller model into a scratch build – stay out of the box for most.
         Have some fun o   This will not be a multi-year project
To repeat the first post, this kit was started (very well I might add) by someone who has since passed.  I am using this as a learning tool and to honor that person.  As such, there will not be a gut job.  The deck is not painted – so be it.  The fore and main lower shrouds are affixed so the rest will be installed in the same manner (using the Heller tool and the ratlines glued in place).
As a person born in the 60’s I remember the warped pieces of plastic that passed off as kits back then and loved building them.  I now have a few wooden ships under my belt (the HMS Druid sits just across the room) and enjoy the process of building and stretching skills.  I am lucky to have 1.5 more kits of this for experimentation, repair and adding on where needed.
The excel spreadsheet attached was my go through of the Heller plans to render into English the names of all the lines and deck tie down locations (eg A7 is the Flying Jib Staysail Downhaul).  Once you have the name and know the function, tracing the line across multiple diagrams is greatly simplified.  I have Identified 9 lines not in the plans (boomkin stays, leech lines, etc) that I will add as well as 12 lines that I believe are duplicative or unkown (see end of first tab).  I will NOT declare it without error.  As I build I will methodically go through what is written and verify so it will get better.  If it helps you, great, but use your own knowledge to see if it is helpful to you.  There is a cross reference to the Anatomy of the Ship Line # as well as Rigging Period Ship model page numbers.
The references I am using (items sitting on the build table) are:
Heller 1:100 Plastic Kit HMS Victory Instructions Krug’s Rigging ID Guide to Heller 1:100 Kit   Line and deck tie down translation to English – Excel Sheets  (Attached below) Full size Plans Used in Longridge’s Book  Percival Marshall & CO Ltd HMS Victory:  Her Construction, Career and Restoration     Alan McGowan The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships   C Nepean Longridge Others on the bookshelf:
Rigging Period Ship Models    Lennarth Petersson Anatomy of the Ship:  The 100-Gun Ship Victory     John McKay I was VERY fortunate to get the full size plans from my Uncle.  So much more readable and usable then the fold outs.  Beautiful detail.
I look forward to advancing this build forward.  Lots of things still to do on the main deck but that will wait.  My focus now is to get the standing rigging up and in place to kick this off. 
Mark
Krug Victory Rigging Lines.xlsx

Hello Alan, yes I am completely with you, most of the times the riveting is out of scale at small scales.

At my Vic at 1:100 I refused for that reason for a long time to simulate the riveting until I found something in the shelf of the bathroom: a derma-roller of my then dear lady :-0

A torture instrument in my very eyes, I saw the other qualities, I disassembled one and gave a different distance for the spiky wheels and a new handle and then things kept rolling 😉

The result was quite like I feelt it should look like, very subtle to the naked eye, it gives a kind of structure that is feeling quite welcome on the whole of the coppering.


 
I also opted for the naked keel.
 


 
I know the basic flaw are the overscaled scales of the Heller kit, but over all it leaves a "good impression."
 
XXXDAn
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you Alan, my pleasure!
 
Her some more real old copper, seen in museum in Oudeschild Texel, where the famous dioprama of the roadstead with the dutch fleet is shown.
 
Just enjoy the laying pattern, the adjustments in the edges and around the fittings, the patches and my favorite piece: the hole of the rudder jeer  🙂
 

Hello Alan, yes I am completely with you, most of the times the riveting is out of scale at small scales.

At my Vic at 1:100 I refused for that reason for a long time to simulate the riveting until I found something in the shelf of the bathroom: a derma-roller of my then dear lady :-0

A torture instrument in my very eyes, I saw the other qualities, I disassembled one and gave a different distance for the spiky wheels and a new handle and then things kept rolling 😉

The result was quite like I feelt it should look like, very subtle to the naked eye, it gives a kind of structure that is feeling quite welcome on the whole of the coppering.


 
I also opted for the naked keel.
 


 
I know the basic flaw are the overscaled scales of the Heller kit, but over all it leaves a "good impression."
 
XXXDAn
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

So a little trimming and touch up on the ‘tar’ and I’m about to attach to the bowsprit maybe tomorrow. 

It is interesting how in the pictures above there are sunk in straps around the whole rudder, but then the pintles are bolted to those straps. Was this a uniquely Dutch thing or was it used elsewhere?
 
One thing that is unclear to me from all this discussion is if the overlap needs to be such that the lower plates (those closer to the keel) overlap the upper plates (those closer to the waterline), then how do you keep the plates parallel to the keel as practically speaking doing plates from the keel up is not easy due to having to slip the next row under the previous one.

Thank you Alan!
 
XXXDAn
 
PS: And before anyone asks: NO!
The misappropriation of the derma-roller was not the reason of separation ...
 

Hello Alan, yes I am completely with you, most of the times the riveting is out of scale at small scales.

At my Vic at 1:100 I refused for that reason for a long time to simulate the riveting until I found something in the shelf of the bathroom: a derma-roller of my then dear lady :-0

A torture instrument in my very eyes, I saw the other qualities, I disassembled one and gave a different distance for the spiky wheels and a new handle and then things kept rolling 😉

The result was quite like I feelt it should look like, very subtle to the naked eye, it gives a kind of structure that is feeling quite welcome on the whole of the coppering.


 
I also opted for the naked keel.
 


 
I know the basic flaw are the overscaled scales of the Heller kit, but over all it leaves a "good impression."
 
XXXDAn
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you Alan, my pleasure!
 
Her some more real old copper, seen in museum in Oudeschild Texel, where the famous dioprama of the roadstead with the dutch fleet is shown.
 
Just enjoy the laying pattern, the adjustments in the edges and around the fittings, the patches and my favorite piece: the hole of the rudder jeer  🙂
 

History shows both versions, without and with coppered false keel. So pick one 🙂
 
We had another discussion concerning this topic, and it seems, that sometimes while recoppering the false keel was not removed and overcoppered. Lazy bastards 🙂
 
All the best, Daniel

Hello Alan, yes I am completely with you, most of the times the riveting is out of scale at small scales.

At my Vic at 1:100 I refused for that reason for a long time to simulate the riveting until I found something in the shelf of the bathroom: a derma-roller of my then dear lady :-0

A torture instrument in my very eyes, I saw the other qualities, I disassembled one and gave a different distance for the spiky wheels and a new handle and then things kept rolling 😉

The result was quite like I feelt it should look like, very subtle to the naked eye, it gives a kind of structure that is feeling quite welcome on the whole of the coppering.


 
I also opted for the naked keel.
 


 
I know the basic flaw are the overscaled scales of the Heller kit, but over all it leaves a "good impression."
 
XXXDAn
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you Alan, my pleasure!
 
Her some more real old copper, seen in museum in Oudeschild Texel, where the famous dioprama of the roadstead with the dutch fleet is shown.
 
Just enjoy the laying pattern, the adjustments in the edges and around the fittings, the patches and my favorite piece: the hole of the rudder jeer  🙂
 

Hello Alan, yes I am completely with you, most of the times the riveting is out of scale at small scales.

At my Vic at 1:100 I refused for that reason for a long time to simulate the riveting until I found something in the shelf of the bathroom: a derma-roller of my then dear lady :-0

A torture instrument in my very eyes, I saw the other qualities, I disassembled one and gave a different distance for the spiky wheels and a new handle and then things kept rolling 😉

The result was quite like I feelt it should look like, very subtle to the naked eye, it gives a kind of structure that is feeling quite welcome on the whole of the coppering.


 
I also opted for the naked keel.
 


 
I know the basic flaw are the overscaled scales of the Heller kit, but over all it leaves a "good impression."
 
XXXDAn
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

By far one the nicest renditions, especially at that scale, and I love the false keel being bare and stapled!!! VERY REALISTIC--  KUDOS!!
Allan

Hello Alan, yes I am completely with you, most of the times the riveting is out of scale at small scales.

At my Vic at 1:100 I refused for that reason for a long time to simulate the riveting until I found something in the shelf of the bathroom: a derma-roller of my then dear lady :-0

A torture instrument in my very eyes, I saw the other qualities, I disassembled one and gave a different distance for the spiky wheels and a new handle and then things kept rolling 😉

The result was quite like I feelt it should look like, very subtle to the naked eye, it gives a kind of structure that is feeling quite welcome on the whole of the coppering.


 
I also opted for the naked keel.
 


 
I know the basic flaw are the overscaled scales of the Heller kit, but over all it leaves a "good impression."
 
XXXDAn