dafi

A very quick update as I don't think I'll get much build time over the next few days.
 
I've finished the flag lockers with one showing the flags and the other with the canvass cover on.  I'm reasonably happy with how they turned out although it was a bit time consuming.  I then finished off the poop and made a start on the poop ladder assemblies.
 
Pictures:-
 

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 138–Stern Galleries 4 –Quarter Piece Figures
Posted 6/18/12
 
The ratio of hours spent per cubic inch of wood has been skyrocketing lately. The work is still being driven by the necessary construction sequence. As I mentioned earlier, I want to finish all the work that requires the hull to be upside down before returning to the detailing of the quarterdeck, so this meant doing all the stern detailing earlier than expected.
 
The first picture shows the stools and rim for the port quarter galleries being installed.
 
 

 
The next required timbers are the quarter pieces, which need to be in place before the quarter gallery windows are done. To do the quarter pieces I wanted to have the quarter piece figures carved so all this could be fit up together.
 
The next picture shows the final (I think) design for the quarter piece figures.
 

 
Several versions of these figures have been developed and some carved and fit up. In this picture, patterns for the figures for both sides have been pasted to pieces of European boxwood and the shapes cut out on the scroll saw.
 
There is no decoration plan for Naiad, so these figures are speculative. Naiads were fresh water nymphs so I wanted the figures to appear young and graceful. I looked at a lot of 19th century romantic artwork featuring mythological nymphs before settling on a design. In a previous post I showed an early version of the figures to be used toward the center of the taffrail. Those will be redone.
 
In the next picture these have been glued to a wood block with a layer of paper in between to allow them to be removed easily. Carving has begun. The plan was to carve these together to assure that they were at least similar.
 

 
This approach worked well. I had also made rough mockups of the taffrail figures using epoxy modeling compound. This was helpful in determining the amount of relief needed in various places on the figures. For the final carvings I started with the faces and if they looked Ok moved on to areas that needed to be deep. Both rotary tools and small carving tools were used.
 
The next picture shows one of the figures pasted in place temporarily on the starboard quarter piece to check for fit.
 

 
The figure is not finished, but the back has been sanded back to fit against the taffrail and post. The next picture was taken at the same time.
 

 
This picture helps give an idea of the proportions. I resized these a couple of times. There is a cap rail to be fitted on top of the taffrail. The figures hand will rest on this. The next picture shows the figure on the other side being fit in the same way.
 
 

 
The next picture shows the stern with both figures further along and pasted in place again. There was a lot of this back and forth.
 

 
In the last picture the figures have again been returned to the wood block for more detailing and polishing.
 
 

 
Hopefully the final refinements on these will get them to a finished state.
 
Once these are installed I will probably move on to all the windows. I’d like to do all these at once – rear and sides.
 
 
Ed

Hello Yon, happy to have this build back! I like it very much!
 
daniel

And the weekend show, some quantum leaps -  means very small and little :-)
 
fitted the last lid ...
 

 
... and fitted with lanyards.
 

 
The holes in the brass fittings were deepend into the plastic by means of a hot needle ...
 

 
... so the brass is not damaged like with a drill and the deep is automatically fixed by the cones of the needle tip and the size of the hole in the fitting ...
 

 
... and it looks like this.
 

 
Grüßle, Daniel

Here both versions side by side, same ship, only 40 years of difference in between ...
 

 

 
... fascinating, as a good friend of mine would say ;-)
 
Got the gun carriages messed and gave a brownisch oil coat to the barrels as some of the ingredients - rust and tar - suggest ...
 

 
... and the tompions plain without color, sticking out and not todays fancy thread in the middle, as the artifacts in NMM and museums suggest. Just one try with a line that goes around, but it does not look to convincing.
 
The shoe for the anchor was fixed in the appropriate place and that is the thing for the moment :-)
 

 
Cheers, Daniel

Hello,
 
Foremast, Foretop, Bibbs, Rubbing-paunch
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  23

Frome a late 19th century German source for steel guns: rub down the barrel repeatedly with vinegar. Once a firmly attached brown iron-oxide layer has developed, paint in lineseed oil. To be rubbed down with a cloth soaked in lineseed oil for maintenance. Be sure not let the vinegare etc. into the barrel (particularly in the case of rifled barrels).
 
This seems to implicate that the barrels were of a satin brownish colour, which is also evidenced by contemporary paintings.
 
Cast iron guns, according to the same source were to be painted in oil paint.
 
wefalck

Hi Niklas and Adam, thanks for the kind words.
 
It's going on with the Main Wale. I done it in the same manner as John McKay is shown at his plans.
I made two templates at first because I must produce many equal pieces.

 
Also it must drawn the postion of the Main Wales to the Frames.

 
Thereafter began the agony

 
Here's the result

 
Juergen

Hello,
 
after I put off my Triton build I started a new project. Now I want to build the 50-Gun Ship HMS Leopard 1790 (POB) ,1/64 scale
Therefor I bought the book The 50-Gun Ship from Rif Winfield. At this are the plans of the Leopard drawn by John McKay.
I don’t make many words about the build of the frames because that’s often described here on MSW.
 
Instead I show some photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Juergen
 

Hi, Dafi! 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/454-24-pdr-bronze-gun-le-fleuron-1729-by-garward-m-124/

A little light reading for you Daniel,
 
http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Seamanship/Fordyce(1837)_p47.html
 
http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Seamanship/X804Obs5.html
 
http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Shipbuilding/Sutherland(1717b)_p190.html
 
http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Shipbuilding/Sutherland(1717b)_p185.html
 
http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Seamanship/Fordyce(1837)_p51.html
 
Hope it helps.
 
M.

Thanks Salty and everyone else that has been following this log, I have enjoyed it immensely and with all your encouragement I have done a lot more than I thought I could! There also seems to be a bit of a motorbike subculture among us modellers as well!
 
Finally it is finished, mounted on small brass pillars and installed in the glass cloche acquired by the admiral.
 
It took about 200 hours.... I am looking forward to doing another!
 
 
Matt
 










 
 

Once again thanks for looking in on my build!
 
We are going away for some sun to escape the long continuing London winter so I shall complete the build when we return
 
Time to review the things I think could be improved
 
I definitely need to improve planning the rigging in advance with more fixings on yards hull and tops
 
I also think that it is possible to get a good approximation of ratlines and deadeyes which I shall try next time
 
I am happy with the materials used but would like to improve the precision of deck fittings
 
The tension in the rigging needs to be managed better and I would like to try getting more realistic sag on the lines
 
There should be less reliance on glue which has built up too much in some places and catches the light.
 
Matt

Test drive
 
In a cup of tap water



 

Sooooooo after some time finally managed to do some new bricotage ...
 
... fitted the deadeyes ...
 

 
... used the revolutionairy Double-Twin-Super-Drive-Technology for grinding the needle heads ...
 

 
... put the batten ...
 

 
... and it looks even neater than the bits on my Vic :-)
 

 
Too take this back added some paint and rust ...
 

 

 

 

 
... and tomorrow once the paint is well dried, I can take it back a tad and do the finetuning :-)
 
Lieber Gruß, Daniel

Sooooooo after some time finally managed to do some new bricotage ...
 
... fitted the deadeyes ...
 

 
... used the revolutionairy Double-Twin-Super-Drive-Technology for grinding the needle heads ...
 

 
... put the batten ...
 

 
... and it looks even neater than the bits on my Vic :-)
 

 
Too take this back added some paint and rust ...
 

 

 

 

 
... and tomorrow once the paint is well dried, I can take it back a tad and do the finetuning :-)
 
Lieber Gruß, Daniel

Sooooooo after some time finally managed to do some new bricotage ...
 
... fitted the deadeyes ...
 

 
... used the revolutionairy Double-Twin-Super-Drive-Technology for grinding the needle heads ...
 

 
... put the batten ...
 

 
... and it looks even neater than the bits on my Vic :-)
 

 
Too take this back added some paint and rust ...
 

 

 

 

 
... and tomorrow once the paint is well dried, I can take it back a tad and do the finetuning :-)
 
Lieber Gruß, Daniel

So what would be a dafithread without Dafinism?
 
Already I wondered that nobody did moan, as I did not bolt the channel onto the gunwale but on top of it instead ?!?
 
...
 
...
 
... so dafi does what dafi knows best ...
 
... DESTRUCTION!!! ...
 

 
Positively seen, this gave a nice test, if the technic is dafiproof - If I mange to cover up the damages caused by this little action, I am on the right way :-)
 
So fixed the channels on the right hight ...
 

 
... coverd the holes with the basic color, first layers with three different shades of brown ...
 

 
... and drying-washing of-adding more-and-so-on and it goes the right direction :-)
 

 
Close enough to the original version, so I am quite happy ;-)
 
XXXDAn

Here we go again ...   The chainwhales/ancor protection fitted ...     ... and remembered the wasp-twins. So painted, redrawn the grooves, guide is the plastic stripe from a labeling machine ...     ... and treated the bottom one with a diluted blach ink to enhance structures. The top is the usual clean version     Casted new iron brackets ...     ... and made more mess.     Then added some rust, some scupper delicacies, some rust from all the iron work and some chipped color as nicely to be seen on todays Vic.     A bit rough at the first moment, but if one consider the ships being out for months on blockade duty, I believe this was not the worst ...   And if one looks at the Surprise in San Diego ... http://xpda.com/junkmail/junk163/pict9072.jpg
... surprise, surprise ...
 
      Cheers, Daniel

Just a wee bit of progress before covering the old ship for a while.  Applying the netting to the bow or fore deck before the roundhouses.  Some of you did this early, however, I was afraid I would destroy the netting or bumpkins while rigging the bow sprit.  First a view of the bow without the netting.
The real ship with netting viewed from inboard.
A simple drawing with measurements to act as a template for the netting.24 gauge annealed wire shaped from the template. A small hook at each end to fit an eyebolt at the roundhouse and at the bow.Wire glued to the netting, over wax paper (tulle) with C/A
Netting placed  starboard.Netting placed on port
Adding the foot ropes to the bowsprit, jib boom and flying jib boom.  A little dilute (10:1 water/white glue helps maintain the natural draping of the line.
A fun view comparing the bow sprit cap on the real ship and the model.
There will probably be a two to three month hiatus as we look to the open water. (after a lot of sanding varnishing and painting) Like Andy's view of sunset on the Great Lakes, all seems right with the world looking at the sunrise crossing the Gulf of Alaska.  Cheers, Gil

Here is an article I found on the rigging of Hammocks.
Hammocks RN.pdf

Hello Michiel,
 
it is always warned about lead corrosion. The lead can disintegrate into white powder. Museums usually refuse taking models with this material because of that reason. I saw some nice effects already in the different forums about this issue.
 
In the MSW.1 there was an article about it. Can anybody reproduce this one and start as a new topic?
 
Daniel

Folks here are a couple of photo's of the building of the hanging magazine. I didn't do to much detail on it but did enjoy building it. Gary

Next thing is mentioned neither in any book: The cutting is just one thing - the gluing is the bigger problem ...
 

 
... used some soft adhesive tape and tried to put it together with 0,5 x 0,5 mm toothless bars - looks nicely uneven ...
 

 
... so printed a 0.7 grid onto paper and used transparent double sided tape and a loupe to fix them together. Nice meditational work :-)
 

 
So it is filling up:
 

 
The caliper is set to 1.4 mm.
 
And my little worker was so kind to lift one up to show the underneath :-)
 

 
... and the result is a cute 0.7 mm grating and soon I will be able to show where it will end up :-)
 

My litte helper was so kind to lift on grating up to show the underneath:
 

 
As promised, here is where the new gratings end up :-)
 

 
Even the split into four parts can be seen :-)

 
All the best, Daniel
 

... and believed the 1mm gratings from the shop still were too big for my purpose ...
 
... and so the tests began ...
 
... and her is the whole story ...
 
Literature always indicates to use the circular saw with a small guide beside the blade. So far understandable and comprehensive and does not sound scary. A first test free hand prooved that my wood was suitable :-)
 
Fastily changed the machine ...
 

 
.... or not that fastily, because untill everything was adjusted to the 0.5 mm blade, the right hight of blade and suitable thickness of the guide, and smooth cutting worked, it took some time. But then putted stripes of 1.5 mm thickness to cut ...
 

 
... and it looked a little bit tattered, see the stripe in the front. So gave it some clear varnisch and the stripe startetd to bend in all directions :-( Used some plastic foil as a separation on the topside and clamped it against another piece of wood to let dry. And luckiely it came out straight and after the second time through the saw it looked clean, see the stripe behind :-)
 

 
... and this is the bounty: material for the next years to come :-)
 
So came the next task: Cutting it into 0.5 mm bars without breaking its tiny teeth and without the bars disappearing in the machine. The latter was easily resolved with some tape. The first came out of the problem, that with the standard guide, the line was rubbing against the blade. So made a new shorter guide that releases the bars immediately ...
 

 
... adjusted the distance with a 0.5 feeler gauge ...
 

 
... and glued same sheet on the side of the wood to get the fingers further off the blade. So managed to cut nice bars :-)