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Izzy Madd

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Posts posted by Izzy Madd

  1. I plucked this info from a Dutch forum.  The person building it had contacted Billing Boats in order to obtain building instructions in pdf.

     

    This is the discription as per forum modelbouwers.nl

    'Quote:'

    De Deense vissersboot Niels Juel H. 137 werd in 1887 te Gilleleje aan de noordkust van Seeland op de werf Ferdinand Carlsen & David Anderson voor Theodor Wassard uit Kobenhavn gebouwd.

    De Niels Juel was ongeveer 37 voet (ca. 11 m) lang, woog 16,5 ton en had een geklonken romp. Oorspronkelijk uitgerust met 1 grootzeil, 1 stagfok, 3 kluivers en 1 topzeil, werd dit later veranderd in 1 grootzeil en 1 fok, hiernaar is dit model gemaakt.

    In 1906 werd er een 8pk petroleummoter ingebouwd.

    Na in 1931 verkocht te zijn aan een rokerij en visexporteur uit Gilleleje, nam in 1934 een schipper uit Skaelskor het schip over.

    Op 9 april 1940 zonk de Niels Juel op een reis met politieke vluchtelingen van Denemarken naar Zweden in de met ijsschotsen bedekte Öresund nadat ze door de Wehrmacht beschoten was. De bemanning kon zich op een ijsschots redden.

    Schaal: 1:25

    Lengte: 65cm

    Breedte: 18cm

    Hoogte: 62cm

    ':Unquote'

     

    Translated it says:

    The Danish Fishing vessel Niels Juel H 137 was built in 1887 in Gilleleje (north east coast of Seeland) in the shipyard of Ferdinand Carlsen & David Anderson for Theodor Wassard from Kobenhavn (Kopenhaven).

    It measured 37 voet (ca. 11 m) lang, had a displacement of 16,5 ton and was clinker (klinker?) built . Originally fitted with 1 main sail, staysail, 3 jibs and a topsail.  This was later changed to 1 mainsail and 1 staysail, which is the basis of this model

    In 1906 an 8pk petrol engine was fitted.

    It was sold to a fish smoking and exporting buisiness from Gilleleje in 1931, and resold again to a local scipper  in 1934.

    On 9th of april 1940 the Niels Juel sank on a trip carrying political refugees from Denmark to Sweden in the ice covered Öresund after being attacked by the German Wehrmacht.

    Scale: 1:25

    Length: 65cm

    Width: 18cm

    Height: 62cm

     

    Hope this helps

     

    Peter

    Hi thanks for that. It helps alot as my dutch is worse than my english and thats bad enough. If its from the same person as i found "ronnie_b" then i know in 2010 he had a photo of the very parts i need im just struggling to get in touch with him? As my dutch failed the robot test.

  2. Izzy,

     

    I'll take three !!

    Where's the 'Add To Cart' button ??

    While I'm all for making a quick buck. I'd rather share. But what am I selling sharing‽

     

    If it's another tutorial it's yours for the exsorbatant fee of free. As a returning client.

     

    But if its the ball joint i can give you the enpbay page gladly. As that is the hardset bit but at £3.50 ita not orth trying to make one. And a piece of boxsection or two bits of 2x2. And your spoilt for choice. You could have one for every model ongoing and just swap them over as you want.

  3. As I said Izzy, good idea, but in my scale, it is invisible

    Cats are 3cm long, with crossection 4x4 mm which means that sheaves openings are 3mm long and 0,5 mm wide. As it can be seen on picture, I drilled a hole, put inside 3mm barbeque toothpic 3mm dia, and ... where is it ?

    So little to be seen.

    Maybe some fine tuning and cleaning will help, we'll see

    This is tonight result

    attachicon.gifIMAG0134.jpg

    attachicon.gifIMAG0135.jpg

    Hi,

     

    Glad my suggestion has been so well used. I find that the twisted wire and bristle brushes sold for cleaning out air brush guns great for removing that pesky bits that cling in holes like this.

     

    They are looking great. A coat of paint and you'd never know they were to scale. Well done.

     

    The hardest part is not tearing the wood apart when drilling. But you've taken to the next level as mine demo was not to scale.

     

    I hope the admarity as a whole are ok. Best wishes. If your not sure what tools I'm meaning just say.

  4. I think KISS is actually "Keep it simple stupid"!......I can recall hearing it daily while working as an engineer at the Cape in the 60s.

     

     

     

     

    Tom

    It is but as the responses were getting a little edgy I thought I'd play it safe and not infer that the other party was stupid. Just in case they live near me

     

    But well spotted

  5. COTTON BUDS/Q TIPS

     

    To save too much confusion. These

     

    post-18378-0-41932800-1432918334.jpg

     

    For hygiene reasons this is more a instead of use rather than a recycling.

     

    These buds if they are the cheap variety have smooth or ridged sticks. These stick are hollow and measure abou 1.5mm OD.

     

    So if cut with a sharp blade into very short pieces make good Parral beads.

     

    These

    post-18378-0-75542600-1432918517_thumb.jpg

     

    Or pulley wheels. Or if they are the ridged kind cogs.

     

    Hope this helps.

  6. Ahoy there,

     

    Just a quick share. I've been wanting a keel clamp such as can be bought that allows movement in all directions. And I happen upon the item below. Which is a camara flash, and reflective umbrella mount.

     

    Basically for £3.50 I've got a rotating base attachment, a ball joint and a secure threaded mounting point for whichever style of keel clamp I want to add. And as aluminium box section it's only £2.50 for 1.2mt then apart from some minor fabrication and some screws I've got a flexible keel clamp from 1.2mts to 0.6mts for under £10. Which I think is a great bargain without infringing copyright.

    post-18378-0-00279700-1432902121_thumb.jpg

  7. Dafi, you may have answered this elsewhere so I apologise if you have....but...what are you going to do when the lower deck is 'done'?  Are you going to somehow keep the upper decks open so the detail can be see or will this be buried like the Pharaohs in the pyramids?  Love your work, you should consider publishing book with your photos to bring the Georgian navy to life.

    I second the idea of "To Victory... And Byond" the best selling book it would have to be a part work though. One volume per deck

    post-18378-0-84945800-1432852970_thumb.jpg

    post-18378-0-02913000-1432853091_thumb.jpg

  8. Ahoy there, S.O.S.

     

    I'm seeking help for a thirty four year old kit. The Billing 514 Niels Juel. Long out of production and as far as I can tell as common as hens teeth embedded in rocking horse droppings.

     

    I've just bought an old kit but apart from the fact it's been somewhere damp. All I know is the bulkhead is all that was ever made.

     

    But that means I've got the last half of a lovely vintage kit.

     

    What I'm needing to save this boat from the breakers yard is 1500 brass pins, no big problem there. And a cutting list for the missing parts.

     

    Administrators. I'm not asking for plans or cutting list for a model that can be bought. It's long been out if production so I'm not trying to get a boat kit for free. I'm just trying to save what is a spares kit at the moment. But I want to turn into a model. If this goes against policy please delet this thread.

     

    So that said can anyone help with an acurate plan of wooden parts as Billing do nowadays?

     

    Please help me save this lost and set to be sent to the breakers yard for spares boat.

  9. It follows the rope sizes :-)

     

    It is indicated in the rigging tablature in the end of McKays AOTS :-)

     

    XXXDAn

    Thanks I knew the info was out there some where. But I just couldn't read enough to find it. I'm more of a pictures person. As soon as I follow the instructions things go wrong.

     

    It's not that I was being lazy as I've been looking for weeks. And as you've done. All I needed was the right place to look. As I can then read it as many times as I have to for it to sink in. But not before I get sent the right way

     

    I was beginning to think I'd gone invisible as no one answered me...

     

    Thanks again

  10. Just had a thought about your cat heads. As I'm messing around with a similar issue. That of blocks. But if you wanted that little more authenticity. Before attaching the out side pieces if you drilled a hole through where the pulley went then inserted a dowel or metal rod right through. Once you put on the outside pieces then part from the fact that they would either turn all at once or not at all you would have a cathead with pulleys. Hope this makes sense. If not let me know and I'll whip up some photos.

     

    Izzy

  11. after a repast like that.........I don't think I'd be able to move  :D  :D   you feed your men very well....is there a sign up sheet? ;)

    There is always a place for volunteers. The only thing is you'd have to loose all but a few grams of body weight AND put up with the screams of other volunteers being redesigned and being redesigned by Barron Von Frankenmodeler. I just wonder if he's got the obligatory Igor hump and all in the right scale

     

    No offence intended Dafi. Sorry if I have.

  12. Hi,

     

    Can someone please direct me to some info about the block sizes used on HMS Victory.

     

    Only I know that they are made to a certain formular(the wheel is 10% wider than the rope, the wheel is three times that in diameter, and the block size derived from the wheel size).

     

    But surely something like the navy must have had fairly standard size blocks. But what were the dimensions?

     

    Or failing that the rope sizes?

     

    I realise that it's probably in one of the books I have. But with my dyslexia/laziness I'm struggling my way through the books very slowly. As I need to re read several times to grasp what is being said. So if someone could just guide me towards the right source at least please.

     

    Izzy

  13. Hi,

     

    Forgive my absence as after seeing Joe 90 every time I searched for anything to do with Vicki. I decided to take a short break in Lilliput and try to learn how to make a block and stripped eye. While I'm sure Dafi's got things well covered and is probably churning blocks out by the thousands. I'm quite pleased with my first effort at a working block. I say working, as my eyesight splaying up and telling if a smooth brass wheel 0.75 thick is turning is beyond me. But the lines move through free enough. Just need to use the thinner thread for the whipping. I think but still I like it. See what you think...

     

    post-18378-0-61890500-1432568308_thumb.jpg

     

    post-18378-0-83303300-1432568322_thumb.jpg

     

    post-18378-0-78276600-1432568336_thumb.jpg

  14. Question for you.

     

    If you could buy a fully working teak and copper block with becket with a pulley diameter how much would you pay?

     

    Obviously the quality would affect prices but as a ball park figure for one 4mm x 2.5mm x 2mm single working pulley with copper pulley steel or copper pin and tied becket?

     

    This is purely out of interest as the idea is only just out of the concept stage and it's no point going further if it cost say £2 to make but you would only pay 50p. Any courency will do also prices for double and triple blocks please

     

    Or prices without becket as well

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