Gaetan Bordeleau

50,000rpm is for metal. Many operations works better at that speed instead of a lower speed
1000 rpm is the lower speed
2 ways to adjust the speed: roughly by the pedal or precisely by a control knob
this one has  a lot of torque , it extremely quiet and it is brushless

Scale is the first factor to consider. Which part with what level of details is the second one and finally what wood to use?
 
Roughly, we can divide the carvings in 2 parts: human with fine details like the hands and face, decorations like flowers.
 
There are still many experiments to be made with different woods than boxwood. Pernambuco, ivory wood could be good examples of dense wood with fine grains which could be good. The safe way to use a wood that can take small details is to use boxwood.
Boxwood takes details of a figurehead as good as  at 1 /192 and 1/24 scale. But all the carvings do not need extreme fine details. Cherry is perfectly suitable for general carvings
 
One last point, Color, for this build, up to now, is made 100% from cherry wood. Ideally, I would like to use cherry for all the carvings, but unfortunately this wood will not take the fine details. The same thing is true for apple wood, I tried it for another figure head.
Ideally, I would prefer the figurehead  would be, also from the same wood, as the ret of the build: cherry wood, so that int this specific build, every part could be the same color.
 
There are many choices that a model ship builder has to deal with and the main rule should always be: it has to look harmonious. Tree nailing is a good example. It should be visible from close but not from far. If the contrat is too big, the eye will only see the nails, not the ship.
 
 
 
What is the last photo? Lighting in the working area is done by 8 LED lights mainly. Lat week, Our electricity company installed new thermostats, switches and electrical outlets. Every device is controllable via an app. I used the 4 electrical outlets to control the lighting with an Ipad, near the desk

Scale is the first factor to consider. Which part with what level of details is the second one and finally what wood to use?
 
Roughly, we can divide the carvings in 2 parts: human with fine details like the hands and face, decorations like flowers.
 
There are still many experiments to be made with different woods than boxwood. Pernambuco, ivory wood could be good examples of dense wood with fine grains which could be good. The safe way to use a wood that can take small details is to use boxwood.
Boxwood takes details of a figurehead as good as  at 1 /192 and 1/24 scale. But all the carvings do not need extreme fine details. Cherry is perfectly suitable for general carvings
 
One last point, Color, for this build, up to now, is made 100% from cherry wood. Ideally, I would like to use cherry for all the carvings, but unfortunately this wood will not take the fine details. The same thing is true for apple wood, I tried it for another figure head.
Ideally, I would prefer the figurehead  would be, also from the same wood, as the ret of the build: cherry wood, so that int this specific build, every part could be the same color.
 
There are many choices that a model ship builder has to deal with and the main rule should always be: it has to look harmonious. Tree nailing is a good example. It should be visible from close but not from far. If the contrat is too big, the eye will only see the nails, not the ship.
 
 
 
What is the last photo? Lighting in the working area is done by 8 LED lights mainly. Lat week, Our electricity company installed new thermostats, switches and electrical outlets. Every device is controllable via an app. I used the 4 electrical outlets to control the lighting with an Ipad, near the desk

A rotary tool by itself is useless. It is the diversity of the bits that you use that makes it very useful.
On the second photo are the most commons ones, that I use almost every day for wood and metal.

Scale is the first factor to consider. Which part with what level of details is the second one and finally what wood to use?
 
Roughly, we can divide the carvings in 2 parts: human with fine details like the hands and face, decorations like flowers.
 
There are still many experiments to be made with different woods than boxwood. Pernambuco, ivory wood could be good examples of dense wood with fine grains which could be good. The safe way to use a wood that can take small details is to use boxwood.
Boxwood takes details of a figurehead as good as  at 1 /192 and 1/24 scale. But all the carvings do not need extreme fine details. Cherry is perfectly suitable for general carvings
 
One last point, Color, for this build, up to now, is made 100% from cherry wood. Ideally, I would like to use cherry for all the carvings, but unfortunately this wood will not take the fine details. The same thing is true for apple wood, I tried it for another figure head.
Ideally, I would prefer the figurehead  would be, also from the same wood, as the ret of the build: cherry wood, so that int this specific build, every part could be the same color.
 
There are many choices that a model ship builder has to deal with and the main rule should always be: it has to look harmonious. Tree nailing is a good example. It should be visible from close but not from far. If the contrat is too big, the eye will only see the nails, not the ship.
 
 
 
What is the last photo? Lighting in the working area is done by 8 LED lights mainly. Lat week, Our electricity company installed new thermostats, switches and electrical outlets. Every device is controllable via an app. I used the 4 electrical outlets to control the lighting with an Ipad, near the desk

Scale is the first factor to consider. Which part with what level of details is the second one and finally what wood to use?
 
Roughly, we can divide the carvings in 2 parts: human with fine details like the hands and face, decorations like flowers.
 
There are still many experiments to be made with different woods than boxwood. Pernambuco, ivory wood could be good examples of dense wood with fine grains which could be good. The safe way to use a wood that can take small details is to use boxwood.
Boxwood takes details of a figurehead as good as  at 1 /192 and 1/24 scale. But all the carvings do not need extreme fine details. Cherry is perfectly suitable for general carvings
 
One last point, Color, for this build, up to now, is made 100% from cherry wood. Ideally, I would like to use cherry for all the carvings, but unfortunately this wood will not take the fine details. The same thing is true for apple wood, I tried it for another figure head.
Ideally, I would prefer the figurehead  would be, also from the same wood, as the ret of the build: cherry wood, so that int this specific build, every part could be the same color.
 
There are many choices that a model ship builder has to deal with and the main rule should always be: it has to look harmonious. Tree nailing is a good example. It should be visible from close but not from far. If the contrat is too big, the eye will only see the nails, not the ship.
 
 
 
What is the last photo? Lighting in the working area is done by 8 LED lights mainly. Lat week, Our electricity company installed new thermostats, switches and electrical outlets. Every device is controllable via an app. I used the 4 electrical outlets to control the lighting with an Ipad, near the desk

next step will be some carving

Scale is the first factor to consider. Which part with what level of details is the second one and finally what wood to use?
 
Roughly, we can divide the carvings in 2 parts: human with fine details like the hands and face, decorations like flowers.
 
There are still many experiments to be made with different woods than boxwood. Pernambuco, ivory wood could be good examples of dense wood with fine grains which could be good. The safe way to use a wood that can take small details is to use boxwood.
Boxwood takes details of a figurehead as good as  at 1 /192 and 1/24 scale. But all the carvings do not need extreme fine details. Cherry is perfectly suitable for general carvings
 
One last point, Color, for this build, up to now, is made 100% from cherry wood. Ideally, I would like to use cherry for all the carvings, but unfortunately this wood will not take the fine details. The same thing is true for apple wood, I tried it for another figure head.
Ideally, I would prefer the figurehead  would be, also from the same wood, as the ret of the build: cherry wood, so that int this specific build, every part could be the same color.
 
There are many choices that a model ship builder has to deal with and the main rule should always be: it has to look harmonious. Tree nailing is a good example. It should be visible from close but not from far. If the contrat is too big, the eye will only see the nails, not the ship.
 
 
 
What is the last photo? Lighting in the working area is done by 8 LED lights mainly. Lat week, Our electricity company installed new thermostats, switches and electrical outlets. Every device is controllable via an app. I used the 4 electrical outlets to control the lighting with an Ipad, near the desk

I am surprised  by all these answers. The fear to ruin a part looks like to be a stop to use a "Dremel". Knowledge of this kind of tool also looks like to be missing, and writing that it is not intended for delicate work is a good example.
 
There are many kinds of rotary tool. Dremel have always been popular and affordable. Again, jewelry tools come to help us in our hobby. Foredom offers many kinds of electric motor. Flex-shaft were very popular but the biggest problem is the rigidity of the shaft but still, it is possible to do extreme delicate work with it. By example, I did a figurehead at 1/192. Speed is control by a pedal and, personally, I do not like this system. We rarely need to change speed during an operation and it is easier to change it with a dial. Then torque of these engine is great. the low speeds are very useful. Foredom, since few years, came with a new electric brushless micro motor: much lighter than a Dremel, as strong as flex-shaft and adjustable speed up to 50,000 rpm which is use to remove metal.
 
I think that the best advise I could say would be dare to try and experiment this tool, you will be surprised how precise and useful it can be.

A rotary tool by itself is useless. It is the diversity of the bits that you use that makes it very useful.
On the second photo are the most commons ones, that I use almost every day for wood and metal.

I am surprised  by all these answers. The fear to ruin a part looks like to be a stop to use a "Dremel". Knowledge of this kind of tool also looks like to be missing, and writing that it is not intended for delicate work is a good example.
 
There are many kinds of rotary tool. Dremel have always been popular and affordable. Again, jewelry tools come to help us in our hobby. Foredom offers many kinds of electric motor. Flex-shaft were very popular but the biggest problem is the rigidity of the shaft but still, it is possible to do extreme delicate work with it. By example, I did a figurehead at 1/192. Speed is control by a pedal and, personally, I do not like this system. We rarely need to change speed during an operation and it is easier to change it with a dial. Then torque of these engine is great. the low speeds are very useful. Foredom, since few years, came with a new electric brushless micro motor: much lighter than a Dremel, as strong as flex-shaft and adjustable speed up to 50,000 rpm which is use to remove metal.
 
I think that the best advise I could say would be dare to try and experiment this tool, you will be surprised how precise and useful it can be.

I am surprised  by all these answers. The fear to ruin a part looks like to be a stop to use a "Dremel". Knowledge of this kind of tool also looks like to be missing, and writing that it is not intended for delicate work is a good example.
 
There are many kinds of rotary tool. Dremel have always been popular and affordable. Again, jewelry tools come to help us in our hobby. Foredom offers many kinds of electric motor. Flex-shaft were very popular but the biggest problem is the rigidity of the shaft but still, it is possible to do extreme delicate work with it. By example, I did a figurehead at 1/192. Speed is control by a pedal and, personally, I do not like this system. We rarely need to change speed during an operation and it is easier to change it with a dial. Then torque of these engine is great. the low speeds are very useful. Foredom, since few years, came with a new electric brushless micro motor: much lighter than a Dremel, as strong as flex-shaft and adjustable speed up to 50,000 rpm which is use to remove metal.
 
I think that the best advise I could say would be dare to try and experiment this tool, you will be surprised how precise and useful it can be.

I am surprised  by all these answers. The fear to ruin a part looks like to be a stop to use a "Dremel". Knowledge of this kind of tool also looks like to be missing, and writing that it is not intended for delicate work is a good example.
 
There are many kinds of rotary tool. Dremel have always been popular and affordable. Again, jewelry tools come to help us in our hobby. Foredom offers many kinds of electric motor. Flex-shaft were very popular but the biggest problem is the rigidity of the shaft but still, it is possible to do extreme delicate work with it. By example, I did a figurehead at 1/192. Speed is control by a pedal and, personally, I do not like this system. We rarely need to change speed during an operation and it is easier to change it with a dial. Then torque of these engine is great. the low speeds are very useful. Foredom, since few years, came with a new electric brushless micro motor: much lighter than a Dremel, as strong as flex-shaft and adjustable speed up to 50,000 rpm which is use to remove metal.
 
I think that the best advise I could say would be dare to try and experiment this tool, you will be surprised how precise and useful it can be.

I am surprised  by all these answers. The fear to ruin a part looks like to be a stop to use a "Dremel". Knowledge of this kind of tool also looks like to be missing, and writing that it is not intended for delicate work is a good example.
 
There are many kinds of rotary tool. Dremel have always been popular and affordable. Again, jewelry tools come to help us in our hobby. Foredom offers many kinds of electric motor. Flex-shaft were very popular but the biggest problem is the rigidity of the shaft but still, it is possible to do extreme delicate work with it. By example, I did a figurehead at 1/192. Speed is control by a pedal and, personally, I do not like this system. We rarely need to change speed during an operation and it is easier to change it with a dial. Then torque of these engine is great. the low speeds are very useful. Foredom, since few years, came with a new electric brushless micro motor: much lighter than a Dremel, as strong as flex-shaft and adjustable speed up to 50,000 rpm which is use to remove metal.
 
I think that the best advise I could say would be dare to try and experiment this tool, you will be surprised how precise and useful it can be.

I am surprised  by all these answers. The fear to ruin a part looks like to be a stop to use a "Dremel". Knowledge of this kind of tool also looks like to be missing, and writing that it is not intended for delicate work is a good example.
 
There are many kinds of rotary tool. Dremel have always been popular and affordable. Again, jewelry tools come to help us in our hobby. Foredom offers many kinds of electric motor. Flex-shaft were very popular but the biggest problem is the rigidity of the shaft but still, it is possible to do extreme delicate work with it. By example, I did a figurehead at 1/192. Speed is control by a pedal and, personally, I do not like this system. We rarely need to change speed during an operation and it is easier to change it with a dial. Then torque of these engine is great. the low speeds are very useful. Foredom, since few years, came with a new electric brushless micro motor: much lighter than a Dremel, as strong as flex-shaft and adjustable speed up to 50,000 rpm which is use to remove metal.
 
I think that the best advise I could say would be dare to try and experiment this tool, you will be surprised how precise and useful it can be.

A rotary tool by itself is useless. It is the diversity of the bits that you use that makes it very useful.
On the second photo are the most commons ones, that I use almost every day for wood and metal.

A rotary tool by itself is useless. It is the diversity of the bits that you use that makes it very useful.
On the second photo are the most commons ones, that I use almost every day for wood and metal.

A rotary tool by itself is useless. It is the diversity of the bits that you use that makes it very useful.
On the second photo are the most commons ones, that I use almost every day for wood and metal.

There are figureheads painted gilded varnished unpainted, I prefer boxwood unpainted aged by time.
I would classify color in the column of the personal choices. Some peoples choose paint other just the color of the wood.
They are both right, it just depends of what do you want to represent.

There are figureheads painted gilded varnished unpainted, I prefer boxwood unpainted aged by time.
I would classify color in the column of the personal choices. Some peoples choose paint other just the color of the wood.
They are both right, it just depends of what do you want to represent.

There are figureheads painted gilded varnished unpainted, I prefer boxwood unpainted aged by time.
I would classify color in the column of the personal choices. Some peoples choose paint other just the color of the wood.
They are both right, it just depends of what do you want to represent.

Scale is the first factor to consider. Which part with what level of details is the second one and finally what wood to use?
 
Roughly, we can divide the carvings in 2 parts: human with fine details like the hands and face, decorations like flowers.
 
There are still many experiments to be made with different woods than boxwood. Pernambuco, ivory wood could be good examples of dense wood with fine grains which could be good. The safe way to use a wood that can take small details is to use boxwood.
Boxwood takes details of a figurehead as good as  at 1 /192 and 1/24 scale. But all the carvings do not need extreme fine details. Cherry is perfectly suitable for general carvings
 
One last point, Color, for this build, up to now, is made 100% from cherry wood. Ideally, I would like to use cherry for all the carvings, but unfortunately this wood will not take the fine details. The same thing is true for apple wood, I tried it for another figure head.
Ideally, I would prefer the figurehead  would be, also from the same wood, as the ret of the build: cherry wood, so that int this specific build, every part could be the same color.
 
There are many choices that a model ship builder has to deal with and the main rule should always be: it has to look harmonious. Tree nailing is a good example. It should be visible from close but not from far. If the contrat is too big, the eye will only see the nails, not the ship.
 
 
 
What is the last photo? Lighting in the working area is done by 8 LED lights mainly. Lat week, Our electricity company installed new thermostats, switches and electrical outlets. Every device is controllable via an app. I used the 4 electrical outlets to control the lighting with an Ipad, near the desk

next step will be some carving

figurehead

Carving is made mainly with a Micromotor, it is a lot easier than knives. no need to use strength, you let the burs work for you. the first part is always the most difficult. Then  you gain trust and it gets easier. An image is applied with rubber glue and each part is shaped at different thickness . This way every element are located. Then you uniform the shapes and clean. 
 
We now have a very good idea of what the use of cherry wood looks like. By carefully select the wood , especially for for planking, I would say that it is perfectly suitable to use for model ship building. I have been using this wood for a few years and to simply classify it , I would say simply do not use the wood when the grain lines run perpendicular. 1 coat of tung oil darkens the wood beautifully.