Chuck
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Everything posted by Chuck
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That looks great. Dont worry about the color of the cedar varying. It will deepen and even out. My winnie hull is a completely different color now vs when I finished planking. It really mellows.- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Well uh yupp!!! I decided to make an entirely new lantern. I tweaked it yet again. There were two things bugging me. Not that I wasnt happy with the old one but I know I would see those two issues for eternity. SO first I reduced the overall diameter. The heght was fine. But it was a bit to fat for my tastes. I reduced it to 95% of what it was. Just a wee bit. In addition I reworked the design to move the vent on the roof aft slightly. Previously it was in the center of the hex. That is incorrect and kept bugging me. The vent should be on the same diagonal as the aft edge or main axis of the lantern. That was challenging to design but building it is no different. Here are some photos of the revises lantern which to my eye looks more to scale and better. I hope you agree although it may difficult to see such small changes. I am my own worst enemy with this stuff. Its also higher on the transom as we spoke about. I used the contemporary models of Amazon and the princess Royal to get a good sense of the height. The door can easily swing open to service the lantern and its easily accessible. It takes a good full day to make this lantern and mount it. Although much quicker this last time around. I have made six in all. There are a lot of failures you guys dont see.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thats cheating.... Like the Capstan and stove there are plenty of little pieces. But having this made of boxwood really does add a lot to the model if done well. That goes without saying...but for these mini kits there are two other secret weapons. They may seem obvious but it is often overlooked. First....Keep it clean....Wash your hands thoroughly first. Like you were going into surgery. Keeping tiny parts clean is so crucial. Use lots of sand paper. Meaning as soon as it gets dirty with char, throw it away. Otherwise it will just dirty up all your parts. I went through so much 400 grit sandpaper making the lantern. Removing the char carefully without getting it on my fingers and spreading it around. Second....magnification....when making these small fittings I use the strongest magnification possible. You can only see when its 5" in front of you and this helps a lot. Great for tight joints on small parts and keeping your parts clean. The lantern probably should have been a bit higher but I couldnt bring myself to drill through the boat carving on the stern. I drilled for the bracket through the water instead. This proved to be a mistake after looking at it for a while. So since these pictures were taken I moved the lantern higher and filled the hole in the carving. Its much better now. And you cant tell I ever hesitated. I have a ton more construction photos and will be processing them soon. But while working on the model I have now fallen so far behind with rope making and other parts I will be very busy for the next week. So no more building for me. But this just leaves the headwork. From the photos of the hull above that is pretty much what the finished hull will look like since you cant see the headrails arent completed. I have to write chapter 11 as well. Chuck
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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The stern lantern is a reworked example of what I currently sell as a mini kit. This one is tweaked a bit but the same concept. I wanted to try my hand at a fully wooden lantern which means this new mini-kit is all boxwood. It is delicate. The old one will look the same but it is made with laserboard elements. Its your choice really. The older version will have to be painted or use the windsor and Newton Markers. I will detail the process to make the new version.....here is the plan... There is a secret to making these neatly and cleanly!!! Want to know what that secret is?
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Im tending to agree with you and it could always be one of those things that anyone could add on their own and make their model more unique. I think the barge on spare topmasts may be enough.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thanks guys...I am having a struggle with deciding how much else to add in the waist. Should I add boarding stanchions or the skid beam crutches? They might look out of place. I was planning on mounting the barge on two spare topmasts and it may look odd with empty skid beam crutches. It may look even more odd with the skid beams and too busy. I am not sure how to proceed but will skip ahead to the chapter12 and start work on the stern lantern next. I dont like adding stuff just for the sake of adding it. Especially if it makes the model look over crowded and too busy. The contemporary model is so clean without them. In fact it doesnt even show the gangboards. We shall see. If I follow Amazon it will get so busy with hammock cranes and all the stanchions. Might be tricky adding the cranes along the qdeck caprail now that the rail is completed as well. The ships barge may be plenty enough on those spare topmasts.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thanks!! I am working on the gangways now to finish up chapter 11. Almost there...
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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That looks very nice...now the fun part!!! Will you be carving from cherry as well? Chuck
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That looks really good. Well done.
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Yes that was stolen from an older set of plans...published in Europe in the 80's and is no way original at all. In fact the kit you have is a rip off of a rip off. Sad to say. They took the plans which were made for model builders and copied them 100% . All parts are identical. The Chinese routinely seek out plans from books and such and just duplicate the parts. It doesnt have to be kit that was copied. In fact I am well aware right now of several pirated versions from plans developed and published in Seawatch books or Ancre books. The pirates favorite sources. Chuck
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Echo by tlevine - FINISHED - Cross-Section
Chuck replied to tlevine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Lovely model. That is a wonderful cross section Toni. -
Welcome to the forum....There are several excellent beginner kits out there on the market. That is certainly not one of them and you have made your experience more difficult. In fact I sadly must tell you that the model you are building is from a Chinese MFG that pirates kits from other manufacturers and plans. That is why they are so terrible. Sadly we prohibit kits made by these Chinese manufacturers so you will not be able to start a build log here. Unfortunately too many newcomers to the hobby are unaware of such unscrupulous and unethical companies who produce these terrible copies. We do have a list of such companies to avoid, I encourage you to read through this topic. Possibly you should look to find a better kit made by one of our sponsors or other legitimate companies as your hobby experience will be so much better. Please read through this topic which will explain everything.
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Thank you very much for the kind words
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Nicely done. It looks good. No need to redo it. Keep going.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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LOL…its another figure that Larry painted for me a while ago. I just happened to place it on the model and it fit perfectly. It is marvelously painted. I will leave it for the show next weekend but ask Larry to maybe paint me a more appropriate one for the model. I have the waist details next which will complete chapter 11. Then its time to add the lantern and headrails to finish up the hull. Thats it!!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Beautiful work on the model. You really made it your own interpretation on and its lovely
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- Cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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The swivel stocks are made from a 5/32" x 532" strip. Their lengths are all different and should be taken from the plans. They will be sanded or files on all for corners to make them 8 sided. BUT....not where they sit against the hull. Here you leave that prtion flat on the entire side. You can see one pair of swivel stocks below. One is dressed and the other undressed. Not the flat side. Measure on you model the length of the flat portion to fit against the hull. From the top of the shear down. The bottom was rounded off as well. The hole in the top was made with a #65 bit for the swivel guns and a thin band of black tape wrapped around the very top. You have to do a lot of measuring from your model to determine the end of the black and the frieze allowing for a natural area to match where the molding is. Just take your time measuring and marking. The friezes were applied as usual after printing them on tissue paper. They were applied with a glue stick and I did my best to match the pattern but it isnt that critical. Some photos showing the stocks installed. I notched away the molding and overhang of the shear to accommodate them. I also did my best to make sure they were vertical but also matching the angles of the rails. They will follow the shape of the hull as well and lean a bit to match the curvature of the hull. The aft-most swivel stock also angles against the forward side of the transom. This makes it look a bit odd depending on the angle but the original drat shows it this way rather than vertical like the other stocks.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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They are basically the same or at least they will be on my model. The weathering powder wears off and dust gets on them and it all evens out.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Not for about a week or so maybe longer. waiting on an order of more acrylic sheets.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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More dealers choice....swivel stocks On the contemporary model there are two swivel stocks on each side of the fcastle. On the original draft there is only one. Only the stock forward of the shrouds is shown. Its up to you really. I am going to omit this swivel stock aft of the shrouds because it is not shown on the original draft. I also think it hurts the graceful flow of the rail into the waist. But its up to you. In addition, the contemporary model does not show the aft-most swivel stock along the qdeck. But it is shown on the draft making it 3 per side. I am just pointing out some discrepancies in case any of you notice it. It would be fine to show all ten swivel stocks that I show on our model plans and the two on the bollard timberheads. But if you agree that the second pair on the fcastle would be visually problematic, you can omit them too. And also, the stocks on Amazon are completely round. Those on the Winnie Contemporary model are six sided. BUT...for me it is much easier to take a 5/32" x 5/32" strip and make it 8 sided by sanding the corners. I follow the 7-10-7 formula for doing so. Although its easy enough if you are careful to just free hand it. Omitting that one pair of stocks on the fcastle also follows the arrangement shown on the Amazon and some other contemporary models. Below. As I have mentioned, the Amazon is one of my inspiration examples while working on the project. I believe you can see the similarities between it and our project.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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This is simply not true. At least not in the USA. All commercial products must be mailed and shipped at the parcel price. The USPS will not allow any product to be shipped by a known commercial seller just an an envelope. I know first hand because I have tried. Many dont know this and the seller would face stiff penalties and or refusal to ship from the Post Office if caught. Sorry but you are just wrong. One reason is that any stiff items will jam the new sorting machines. Only envelopes can be put in them and they bend through the machine rollers. When you put anything hard or metal in the envelopes it jams the machines and believe me you hear about it if you are a commercial shipper. Parcels are NOT put through sorting machines like the envelopes are...or they are put through different ones not likely to jam. In the US the cheapest parcel rate for commercial shipping is around $5.50 Up to 8 oz. If its going international it varies...but you are looking at $14 - $22. The cheaper number is basically just Canada. I have had angry emails that shipping 1package of large triple blocks which cost $6 when sent to Europe would cost $22 to ship. I get called a crook all the time. But folks are just so wrong and have no idea how it works for a small business. No way around this unless you are Amazon and get a huge break from the post office. Small guys have to pay full rate every time. So any of you guys in the US that get angry about not using a first class stamp to mail a few packages of blocks or rope....or "brass pins", please understand that this is not 1950....you cant do that any more. Now if that guy is charging $16 to ship within the same country like the USA he is absolutely ripping you off. But $7 - $10 is pretty standard to cover packaging etc. Unless you are Jeff Bezos.
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Thank You very much!! 😄
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