Chuck

Beautiful work as usual. Love those small details. And it doesnt matter really how often you might see it on primary sources. I have seen many examples where fine unusual details are shown on a particular contemporary model and nowhere else which makes it absolutely worthy of inclusion. We may never the why? or how often? but its a wonderful detail. Well done.

I am glad the surgery went well. Welcome back.... Check here for all helpful downloads.

Absolutely beautiful progress.

Yes they are not shown on the draft or the cont model but I think they would have been there. The standards are usually not shown on original drafts. At least most that I have seen. So this will be an optional detail but one I will be adding to my model for sure. Chuck

Yes it will have them.

If you have some brass tubing or even some styrene tubing that would work better for you. Those aren't that fragile at all. I have no idea how you are breaking them like that. But a replacement will be the same. I recommend you use any kind of tubing you can find close to that diameter instead.

For what? The lids on the top of the stove. I am not sure what you mean by vents. There are no vents. They are just held in place by little tabs. To be cut with a sharp blade….not just punched out. Unless the laser didnt cut all the way through. Take a picture. Post it. if you need a new sheet i can send one no problem but I am not very sure which sheet or part you are referring. I etched the outline on the top of the stove for the lids but thats just for placement purposes. You shouldnt remove those …and on a sep sheet there are small matching circles for the lids that go in those spots. Its all spelled out step by step in the pdf.

That will be designed and made after the hull is completely finished.

Thats looking very good i deed.

Thanks guys....next up will be the cap for the transom. That will be a gratifying part to complete as I am tired of looking at those stubby stern frames sticking up at the stern. Once that is completed I will wrap up chapter 10 with a few timberheads with sheaves along the inboard qdeck bulwarks. And the iron-work and guns. Chapter 11 was originally going to be for the headrails but I have decided I want complete the exterior with channels, deadeyes and fenders and swivel guns and such first. That will really make the model look finished off. I am looking forward to the next chapter a lot.

Wonderful work and nice progress on the rigging. Looking forward to see that rig develop. Chuck

Just a quick update....Today I completed the qdeck rail on the starboard side. Uneventful and all parts were laser cut. I will detail the step by step. All Parts are laser cut in groups. I thought it would be easiest to build if completed in sections. The laser cut parts for each group are labelled as such...M-1 and O-1 and L are the parts for the first section....then working your way aft you will use the parts M-2 and O-2 for the second section etc. The first section of rail is the most finicky but I will try and explain. The first section of rail (parts L, M-1 and O-1) First I glued the various parts together in the photo below. Just like the fcastle rail, finish the timberheads on all four sides. Then glue the fancy curved pieces to the notched rails so after painting them black you wont see the seams. Once painted black, the first lower section was dry fit on the drift in the waist. Dont glue it on yet. But you will also notice in that same photo, the longer post and short post on the qdeck sheer. These are actually painted ahead of time and glued in position. I found it easier to have these glued in place so the the assemble behind it can be slipped into position. This is the other assemble we made earlier. To complete this first section of the fancy rail, dry fit this section on the cap rail. Dont glue it on yet. See below. Note how the forward end connects with the lower rail on the drift. These should look like one continuous rail. I added some wiggle room so you can sand the aft end of the lower rail so it will be flush. That is why you shouldnt glue any of them in yet. Mark it with a pencil and sand the aft end until its flush and looks like one rail. This will be easier to understand as you guys are also doing it...I understand that it is difficult to write about but you will see what I mean once you get to this step. When you get everything to fit nicely, you can glue it all in position permanently. Then moving aft it gets easier. Each additional group just contains two longer uprights, the rail, and two timberheads. The photo below shows on of these sections already completed. This was section 2. Section 3 of the rail is in progress. In the same photo above you will see the two longer uprights painted and glued in position. Again, I found it easier to complete this way. Behind it you can see the center section with the timberheads waiting to be inserted between the two long uprights. One NOTE....the longer upright in each group (in this case section 3) are different lengths. The uprights get shorter as the work their way aft. Make sure you glue them into position in the correct order. Shorter ones are aft. Then add the center assembly which has been already painted. Also make sure its facing the correct direction. It will only fit one way. The timberheads should be vertical and as such have angled bottoms. Make sure each upright and timberhead are vertical and because of the angled bottoms facing the correct way. The photo below shows the center inserted... Continue in this fashion for all five sections of the rail. Then the top rail can be added. It comes in two sections. On fancy piece on the forward end and a long length of rail to the transom. I found it easier to attach both pieces together and sand them. Then pre aint it black. You will have to adjust the aft end to fit against the transom stern frame. Also note the fixed block that sits on the cap rail against the transom. Your rail in the fifth and final section sits on this block. A small laser disc is glued into the slot of the fixed block. This can be finicky but manageable if done a section at a time. Its not a plastic kit so you will have tweak the angles and shift some timberheads to get them to look just right. Remember the timberheads and uprights on this rail should be vertical. Make sure the longer uprights are all the proper height which they should be before you put that top rail on. You dont want a wavy top rail. So DONT sand their lengths at all. They are all precision laser cut to the proper lengths. Test the top rail before gluing it on. This is a task that requires that you go slow....there are a lot of things to watch out for which wouldnt make any sense at all to you if I wrote about them now. But once you start building this rail please dont hesitate to ask me a lot of questions. Any questions or comments??

Thats fine but that test piece does look too low. But its great to see you using the tools that you feel comfortable with.

That will do just fine Glenn Keep going!!! No need for a redo on those.

Frank is correct. A locely job but the bowsprit hole should be angled. The bollard timbers are skewed slightly. Not a lot but on their forward and aft sides.

Nicely done.

Dont worry about the aft end…you are good to go. the length is fine. That doesnt matter.

Perfect....but seriously check the bow shape before you plank over it.

Now would be a great time to check the shape of your bow. This will ensure the caprail parts will fit and the fancy rail. See below.

Very nice!!! Just lovely.

Here you go Jim....CHAPTER NINE Chapternine.pdf Planking templates are at the end of the chapter. Be sure to print them out.

It looks great so far.

Attached is a PDF of the actual fcastle cap rail parts. This includes the small "arrow" spacer for the cathead. Read chapter 9. BUT...I thought this would be a great way for those who are just starting to fair the bulkheads inchapter one to check that the bow shape and curvature is correct. Lay these on top of the bulkheads were the cap rail will eventually go to check the shape. I know you guys get nervous about the correct shape at the bow. Many of you will NOT have that and the cap rail may not fit. Which will mean you guys will need to scratch build the cap rail and fancy rail parts. Make sure that your bow has the correct shape before you start planking... GBarlow..........Glen, this is the perfect timefor you to use these. fcastle caprail templates..pdf

Nope....i am going to wait a few months. See if you guys can figure it out. LOL....I just want to make it extra challenging and extra rewarding when you guys finish it all up.

Lovely work....those pumps look perfect. Well done! 😄