Chuck

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Thank You...
 
With the catheads completed I could finish some inboard details at the bow in preparation for fitting the bulwarks with the pissdale and other stuff.
 
In this photo you can see the the waterway was added around the perimeter of the fcastle deck.  It was done exactly like the other decks.  
 
Then I I added the final breast hook at the bow.  This was done just like the others on the deck below it.  It was laser cut in two pieces.  I made sure to bevel the inside edge so I got a tight fit against the bulwarks and stem.  I added nine bolts that stood proud using 30lb black fishing line.   Then it was painted red.
 

 
Lastly,  I added the thin an delicate molding strip on the inboard bulwarks.   If this is made too heavy it would just look bad.  So I made sure it was very thin and not too wide.  Its a nice feature on the model actually.  You guys wont have to worry about scraping the fancy profile into a strip of wood.  I laser cut these for you with the profile.  But I didnt use wood.  I laser cut them from very thin syre-nite acrylic.  This stuff is awesome really.  It is very, very flexible.  And we will need it to be, which is why I chose to use it.  It bends so nicely without breaking.   We will need that flexibility when it has to go around the top edge of the pissdales which are up next.   I would just recommend that you round off the top edge to make it look like a nice fancy molding strip.  Just be careful and use a fine 400 grit sandpaper.  Its beige to match the wood color but I could have actually laser cut them in red.  But for those of you who want to go natural without paint I am using the stuff that looks like boxwood.  The same stuff I used for the stern lights etc.   So you must paint it red before you glue it on the hull.  
 
It runs from the aft side of the cat tail and along the sheer in the waist.  It continues all the way back to the poop bulkhead.  
 

You really must try and keep a nice run with this molding.  It should be a graceful run from bow to stern without any dips or waviness.  Follow the run of your inboard planking.  the top of the molding is flush with the top of the cap rail along the waist.
 

Perfect and such a lovely photo.   

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Completed the Aft Bulkhead and installed the QD beams behind it.
You can see I used the laser cut door handles from Chuck, I think they look much nicer than the normal knobs.
Now on to the next Bulkhead.
 
ben

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

This is certainly turning out to be one of longest projects I've ever done. I guess all that matters is that I'm still making progress little by little. I got the inside planking in place and now I'm in the process of smoothing everything out with filler where needed. I've had many different emotions about this build including giving up all together, but I can say at this time I feel pretty good about where I'm at with this kit.

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Thank You...
 
With the catheads completed I could finish some inboard details at the bow in preparation for fitting the bulwarks with the pissdale and other stuff.
 
In this photo you can see the the waterway was added around the perimeter of the fcastle deck.  It was done exactly like the other decks.  
 
Then I I added the final breast hook at the bow.  This was done just like the others on the deck below it.  It was laser cut in two pieces.  I made sure to bevel the inside edge so I got a tight fit against the bulwarks and stem.  I added nine bolts that stood proud using 30lb black fishing line.   Then it was painted red.
 

 
Lastly,  I added the thin an delicate molding strip on the inboard bulwarks.   If this is made too heavy it would just look bad.  So I made sure it was very thin and not too wide.  Its a nice feature on the model actually.  You guys wont have to worry about scraping the fancy profile into a strip of wood.  I laser cut these for you with the profile.  But I didnt use wood.  I laser cut them from very thin syre-nite acrylic.  This stuff is awesome really.  It is very, very flexible.  And we will need it to be, which is why I chose to use it.  It bends so nicely without breaking.   We will need that flexibility when it has to go around the top edge of the pissdales which are up next.   I would just recommend that you round off the top edge to make it look like a nice fancy molding strip.  Just be careful and use a fine 400 grit sandpaper.  Its beige to match the wood color but I could have actually laser cut them in red.  But for those of you who want to go natural without paint I am using the stuff that looks like boxwood.  The same stuff I used for the stern lights etc.   So you must paint it red before you glue it on the hull.  
 
It runs from the aft side of the cat tail and along the sheer in the waist.  It continues all the way back to the poop bulkhead.  
 

You really must try and keep a nice run with this molding.  It should be a graceful run from bow to stern without any dips or waviness.  Follow the run of your inboard planking.  the top of the molding is flush with the top of the cap rail along the waist.
 

Catheads...
 
I usually hold off on making the catheads, but it just makes sense to get them done now.  It will make it easier to finish off the inboard bulwarks which will be next up.   With the catheads all done I can get the waterways in on the f'castle deck along with the pissdale and other details.
 
All the pieces are laser cut for the catheads.  Below.  I have cleaned all the char off of these pieces and they are ready to assemble.
 

The sides with the carved panels were glued on first.  First the outside cover to establish the raised panel look and then the inboard piece.  These are 1/64" thick and are sanded down even thinner afterwards.
 

Then the carved front piece and sheaves were added.  These are a hair larger than needed so you can sand them all nice and flush.
 

Then the cathead was glue to the cat tail...no worries about the seam because that will be completely covered.
 

 
Using the templates that we used to establish the hawse holes,  the position for the catheads were marked outboard.  Then the bulwarks were notched out carefully.  I used a razor saw.  The notch was made narrower than needed and not as deep as ultimately needed.  Once the basic notch was cut out, I used a good file to slowly open it up to its final size and shape.
 
You will also notice I painted the inboard cat tail red in advance.  I painted up to the seam line.  Note the chamfered edges inboard.
 

When test fit and in the final position, the inboard side of the cat tail is flush with the top of the cap rail.   But the angle of the cathead rises and so it will be above the cap rail height on the outboard side.  You can see this in the picture.  This is what you are shooting for.  The cat tail is also left longer on the inboard side so you can shorten it accordingly.  It should sit flat on the deck.  You will soon see some inboard pics.

Above the cathead there is a cat block.  Usually this is an open cat block but on the contemporary model it is closed.  So I will follow suit.  This is laser cut and 3/16" wide. ...but is currently a straight cat block.  You need to sand a slight curve into this when viewed from above.  It needs to conform to the rounded shape of the cap rail when viewed from above.  See the plans.  This is easy enough to do.  It is a very slight curve.
 
Then a sheave is added and a slot is created on the bottom.  This slot will accommodate the top of the cathead.   It will sit right on top of it and thus this slot must be angled to match the upward slope of the cathead.  Again this is not hard to do.  I just used a small flat file.  But yes you can carve it with a chisel also.   The catblock was painted black.
 

 
A final pic of the catheads in position and the cat blocks too.  There is still a bunch of paint touch up to get done.
 


Now as you know there are many ways to build and position these.  For example,  if you wanted to,  you can add the inboard cat tail separately without gluing them together first.  Maybe that will be easier for some.  Cut it to length and paint it red.  Glue it to the inboard bulwarks and partially in the notch.  Then add the cathead by placing it into the notch up against the cat tail.
 
Its up to you.  I just thought it might be easier this way to make them look like one piece if they were glued together first.  But its not the only way to do it. And remember, the seam between the two parts will be completely covered by the cat block.  So it doesnt have to be perfect.

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

I was busy today and missed this thread but I will add that early on our members were actually scammed on MSW.   This happened exactly how one would expect.  Someone pretended to have lost a relative (father) and had their stuff from 30 years of ship modeling to sell.   He listed them all and took PayPal payments and nobody received anything.  Thousands of dollars worth of tools and kits and books.  It was a complete and total scam.   By the time we suspected and found out...the email was disconnected along with the paypal address.  Photos of the stuff were pasted from the web etc. This is what prompted our rule about 25 posts (originally 50) and for folks who sell stuff to be vetted or be members in good standing.  But yes it is always buyer beware.  It is too easy to get scammed these days.  It usually happens around the holidays too!!
 
So please...damned if we do and damned if we dont.   I would rather have folks here be mad at us for protecting them rather than screaming at us after they were scammed here out of not so insignificant $$$....It is for our community protection.  
 
We have always had exceptions.  Most folks contact either me or Kurt and we make it so they can create a topic here.   We must have missed this one and they never contacted us directly.   But usually we know these guys who passed away and even their relatives.   So we vet them ahead of time and endorse them when they finally make a post about the stuff.   If you dont see that, please be aware its all your risk.  But if you dont see such an endorsement...please bring these topics and posts to our attention so we can do our due diligence and make sure it is legit. 

We shall see....It was only the first initial sets of chapters.

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Nope ...not at all, LOL.   That will all be removed and cut away anyway.