Chuck

Here you go....
 
ColonialSchoonerSultana.pdf

Here you go....
 
ColonialSchoonerSultana.pdf

Here you go....
 
ColonialSchoonerSultana.pdf

making progress in the hold area. almost done, just a few things left to take care of. right now, I'm concentrating only on construction. fitting out the space will come after I finish the hull... or in between burn outs, lol...
 









 
and another walkthrough video...
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKy6i_ElLVM

Thank You...they look wonderful.  Yes they are a bit on the lighter side...but it is easy enough to go darker with some stain.  Just give them a little dip.  It is however impossible to go lighter so hence the shade of all my boxwood 3d printed parts.  I am glad you find them acceptable and versatile.  How are those thimbles working for you?
 
Chuck

Oh and two more things...
 
I spoke too soon.
 
I cracked the code...1:64 or 3/16" scale belaying pins are now in stock.  They are 7.4 mm long or 9/32".

In addition...the first batch of chapter 4 parts for Speedwell are also in stock.  Dont worry more of these will follow.

I have now dipped the pins in a dark oak stain which I think tones them better with the model and provides a range of subtle shades.

4811a
An original pin is second from the right. (excuse the working detritus)
 
Working on the thimbles now, modifying the Pendents of tackles, I think they will be 👌
 
Hard to imagine from even a short time ago such fine detail on items so small.
 
Cheers, Chuck.
 
B.E.

6mm is fine.  In fact I believe my bulkhead sets are 6mm

Thank You...they look wonderful.  Yes they are a bit on the lighter side...but it is easy enough to go darker with some stain.  Just give them a little dip.  It is however impossible to go lighter so hence the shade of all my boxwood 3d printed parts.  I am glad you find them acceptable and versatile.  How are those thimbles working for you?
 
Chuck

Beautiful work.  A perfect match to the model work.  

Thank You...they look wonderful.  Yes they are a bit on the lighter side...but it is easy enough to go darker with some stain.  Just give them a little dip.  It is however impossible to go lighter so hence the shade of all my boxwood 3d printed parts.  I am glad you find them acceptable and versatile.  How are those thimbles working for you?
 
Chuck

Thank You...they look wonderful.  Yes they are a bit on the lighter side...but it is easy enough to go darker with some stain.  Just give them a little dip.  It is however impossible to go lighter so hence the shade of all my boxwood 3d printed parts.  I am glad you find them acceptable and versatile.  How are those thimbles working for you?
 
Chuck

Post 90
Another little packet of wonderments
Eights days from order another little packet has arrived from across the pond.
Amongst the contents are a supply of Chuck’s new 1:64 scale Resin belay pins.
I have been keen to see how these fit Harpy, and you might say I’m highly delighted.

4777a
These pins slot into place as if made for the kit, and in an instance have made all other kit provided Belay pins at this scale, obsolete.

4779a
These are fitted as supplied without any colouring, but could be darkened if required.
On my build they won’t be used for their designed purpose as I’m not rigging her, but they do look good in the racks.

4789a
I did do a strength test on the pin and they performed just fine.
More likely to pull the rack off the bulwark before the pin breaks.
 
Thanks Chuck, a great job.👍
 
 
B.E.
17/06/2025

working on larger blocks now...
 
11/32" singles and doubles now available and I am cooking the 5/16 as I write this. Below is an 11/32" (9mm) single block with 3mm thimble and a hook fashioned from 22 gauge black wire.  The sheave was also darkened with a #2 pencil as you can easily do that with these bigger blocks.  Once the 5/16" are done I will make 9/32" blocks.  I think 9mm or 11/32" blocks are the biggest I will make.  I cant see much need for larger blocks?  But I may be wrong.
 

Post 89
Now for the tricky bit -Topmasts
The kit version Topmasts are simplified but will still take some careful work using 6mm dowel. There is tapering  and creating the flared hounds, and a clean rectangular head.
 
Accurately shaped topmasts are the most complicated masts to make because they have both square and octagonal lower sections, a tapering round mid-section, rising to flared hounds, and a rectangular head.
Additionally sheaves set at a diagonal angle are required in the heel.
 
I do happen to have a couple of topmasts I made earlier during the course of my Pegasus build.
These were made to Steel’s specifications, and again by luck closely match the kit sizes.

007
The Topmast drawn out and prepared for shaping on a ‘V’  cradle.
Square stock is used throughout, it is easier to round the section between the lower mast cap and the Topmast hounds, than create the non round sections from dowel.

028
The lower section showing the square and octagonal detail and the Top rope sheaves.

029
The head section detailing the hounds.

025
The completed Topmasts.

4744a

4739a
I had to adjust them slightly to fit Harpy, the critical area being the fit between the fid hole created by the crosstrees and trestletrees.
In reality the Topmast should slide up through this section using the Topropes.
 
The kit has the Topmasts at the same length for both Fore and Main. This follows the Steel table for a 200 ton Brig.

4740a
The masts I have used  are based on a 300 ton sloop where the Main Topmast  is slightly longer by around 12mm.
Harpy is a Brig sloop, and in my version I have gone more Sloop than Brig, based on the vessel weight.


4748a
As it happens the Fore Topmast matches the Kit plan drawings. The extension at the bottom is the block below the heel, which has the lower Toprope sheaves.
 
Onwards…
 
B.E.
16/06/2025

Thanks everyone who replied or messaged me about my question of redoing the bottom planks of the tuck.  The consensus is to keep it as-is and cover it up with the molding.  I'm maybe 80% of the way to accepting that advice.  The perfectionist in me is fighting it, but I'm working on it.   I definitely need to redo the blocking and fairing of the remainder of this area before proceeding further, but am waiting until I line-off the lower hull to do this work.
 
Managed to get the outer strakes of the wales mounted and faired this weekend.  Should be painting the wales in the next few days assuming I can get out of work on time this week.
 
View of the stern with the wales installed.  Just pretend that ugly gap in the lower planks is covered with a molding strip for now...
As mentioned above, the fairing back here needs attention before proceeding with the remainder of the planking.
 

 
 

 
A little difficult to see, the wales are tapered into the stem.  Looking at Chuck's instructions, I may increase this taper a little more.  Currently the planks are about 1/3 to 1/2 thickness at the stem.
 

 
 
Steve

Druxey, thanks for the comments. I absolutely appreciate the info. I was wondering why the model carried the royal standard when so few paintings of royal yachts show it. Good to know the King is aboard, probably dining... 🙂
 
JacquesCousteau, Patrick, Chris, Gregory... thanks for the comments! I think I've learned quite a bit from working on this build. May not have incorporated all I've learned, and clearly the model is not perfect, but it's been a good experience!

Actually the inevitable very fine dust that will settle on your model and rigging should make that barely noticeable.   It wont remain shiny at all for long.   😉
 
Chuck

Nicely completed, Clare. The Royal Standard is flown only when the king was aboard. He must be below, somewhere aft.... Usually jack was flown from the jackstaff on the bowsprit. No criticism - just thought you'd like to know.
 
(The painting is of the second or new Mary - not to be confused with the original Dutch Mary. In this instance, the yacht is carrying William of Orange. His standard flies from the masthead.)

working on larger blocks now...
 
11/32" singles and doubles now available and I am cooking the 5/16 as I write this. Below is an 11/32" (9mm) single block with 3mm thimble and a hook fashioned from 22 gauge black wire.  The sheave was also darkened with a #2 pencil as you can easily do that with these bigger blocks.  Once the 5/16" are done I will make 9/32" blocks.  I think 9mm or 11/32" blocks are the biggest I will make.  I cant see much need for larger blocks?  But I may be wrong.
 

working on larger blocks now...
 
11/32" singles and doubles now available and I am cooking the 5/16 as I write this. Below is an 11/32" (9mm) single block with 3mm thimble and a hook fashioned from 22 gauge black wire.  The sheave was also darkened with a #2 pencil as you can easily do that with these bigger blocks.  Once the 5/16" are done I will make 9/32" blocks.  I think 9mm or 11/32" blocks are the biggest I will make.  I cant see much need for larger blocks?  But I may be wrong.
 

Actually the inevitable very fine dust that will settle on your model and rigging should make that barely noticeable.   It wont remain shiny at all for long.   😉
 
Chuck

Actually the inevitable very fine dust that will settle on your model and rigging should make that barely noticeable.   It wont remain shiny at all for long.   😉
 
Chuck

working on larger blocks now...
 
11/32" singles and doubles now available and I am cooking the 5/16 as I write this. Below is an 11/32" (9mm) single block with 3mm thimble and a hook fashioned from 22 gauge black wire.  The sheave was also darkened with a #2 pencil as you can easily do that with these bigger blocks.  Once the 5/16" are done I will make 9/32" blocks.  I think 9mm or 11/32" blocks are the biggest I will make.  I cant see much need for larger blocks?  But I may be wrong.
 

working on larger blocks now...
 
11/32" singles and doubles now available and I am cooking the 5/16 as I write this. Below is an 11/32" (9mm) single block with 3mm thimble and a hook fashioned from 22 gauge black wire.  The sheave was also darkened with a #2 pencil as you can easily do that with these bigger blocks.  Once the 5/16" are done I will make 9/32" blocks.  I think 9mm or 11/32" blocks are the biggest I will make.  I cant see much need for larger blocks?  But I may be wrong.