markjay

I’m so in tune with that aesthetic Chris, 17th/18th c is my favourite period.
Love your idea of a Royal George.

One of my most cherished watercolour prints by Derek Gardner, a great subject for a model.
 
B.E.
 

It is a great looking ship, and quite formidable in her time, as the French found out at the Battle of Quiberon Bay (1759).
 
Can't wait to see how much that figurehead will cost me....

I have been progressing with a small/medium kit before plunging into another long term development.
 
All designs/laser cut files are done, including three PE sheets, and now I am working on drawings. Once all drawings are complete, I shall start building the model for the manual, and may do a build log.
 
This is the gun brig Adder, of the Acute Class of 1797. My two main sources state it is a 14 gun brig, 12 x 18 pounder carronades and 2 x 24 pounders in the bow - but they may have been 12 gun brigs, as the only way to get the extra two carronades in position is to fill the stern chaser ports.

Thank goodness!  And on your full list, delighted to see Anson's Centurion.
 
If you ever tire of 1:64 and 17/18/19th C warships, I'd give a vote for some of the 19th C packets, clippers and windjammers.  I was at a market in Hobart Tas, last Feb, and a fellow, name of Brian Stafford, had a stall selling his self-published The Great Windships - very interesting books on the development of merchant sailing ships.  Prompted me to re-read The Last Grain Race by Eric Newby.  Newby sailed in, and Stafford extols, the windjammers - the last important commercial sailing ships - fantastic vessels.  But they were big.  Up to 7 masts and over 100 m in length (probably excluding  the bowsprit).  So that's 1.5-2 m at 1:64.
 
But anyway, Suprise and Centurion will do me for a while.  And that's after Alert.  Whose build log I must now start.

Royal George would be really neat!
 
Calendonia, a 120, would be awesome!

One very strong positive of RG, no infernal copper plates!

You will come up with the knowlegde and wisdom to manage a project like RG and it will be a kit many of us will be patiently waiting in line when it hit the shelves in the store. I guess that @James H would want to build the prototype for sure…
Thanks for your reply! 🙂
 

Yes, Royal George was one of the first I chose when compiling my first 'To Do' list back in 2019, and has always been earmarked for the 'Flagship' of the range. But it will be a 2 year development, and I have to consider where and how to compromise so the end kit cost isn't too crazy. Pointless spending years on development and buying expensive materials if the end result is something people cannot afford....

I've heard you often say that you prefer to develop models that haven't been produced before by other companies so I'm thrilled to see the Connie on your list. I've always felt that there would be an enthusiastic market for some of the more famous models, like the Connie and others, that have been designed with the kind of modern techniques and instructions that you have developed at Vanguard. I hope you'll place the Connie high on your "to do list" and we'll see her sooner that later especially for those of us who are getting long in the tooth.

Oh My!  Chris, if you do your best to live long enough to design them, we shall do our best to live long enough to build them!  🤣 
 
That list is more than a life times work for many of us "slow coaches"! 👼

It is actually an Acute Class gun brig of 1797, and with a deck length of 75 feet, just a few feet shorter than Speedy. The forward part of the deck actually droops down to accomodate the two large 24 pounder chasers.

My 'Future Projects' Folder, what I would very much like to do for main kits before I die. (not included are smaller subjects) - all 64th
 
Amazon (32 - 1770's)
Amphion (32 - Hoste's command)
Phoebe (36 - 1790's)
Arethusa (38 - 1780's)
Imperieuse (38 - Ex Spanish Medea, Cochrane's command after Speedy)
 
Bonne Citoyenne (20 - Influential captured French large flush deck corvette)
Royal Oak (70 - 1740's)
Centurion (60 - Anson's)
Bellona (74)
Spartiate (very large 74 captured at the Nile)
Foudroyantt (80)
 
Royal George (100 - 1750's)
Calendonia (120 - 1800's - if only to see the look on my wife's face when building up the hull on the dining room table...)
 
Restoration warship (1670-1690)
 
Constitution (US)
 
If I live to do even half of that list, I shall be somewhat happy.
 
 
 

That’s good news Chris, do you still intend to do HMS Suprise after Bristol? 🙏

Yes

Not sure how many years I have left for ship modeling but it sure looks like Vanguard is going to keep me well supplied for the remaining  years!     Order has been placed for Cutter Trial,

I thought I had better post on this thread, Trial Cutter is now available and in stock:
 
HM Trial Cutter – 1790 – VANGUARD MODELS
 
There will be a couple of days delay in shipping, due to both being very busy (just finishing a couple of large distributor orders) and packing the kits.
 
There will be one more kit release this year (making 4 new releases for 2023), and then a much longer break for the 16th kit, Bristol, which will be released next year, all being well.

Here is my summary along with pictures of my just completed model of the HM Brig-Sloop by Vanguard Models.  The kit itself, both quality of the materials and the accompanying instructions are superb! A number of build logs are have been done on this kit and thanks to them, I had some great hints and tips during the build of this project. Rather than add another build log ( I must admit at 70 years old and not very computer literate, the thought still intimidates me a bit) I've decided to add a few areas in which I diverged from the "out of the box" build.  Over-all, the project took me 650 hours to build.  Not sure if this about right or if I proceed at a snails pace.  I'm somewhat of a minimalist when it comes to tools.  An exacto handle with #11 blades, an old 12" Craftsman band saw and some small hands tools is about all I use.  For refences I used Steele's Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging (1794),Darcy Lever The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor (1819), Lees The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1869 (1979) and Ian McLaughlin The Sloop of War 1660-1763 (2014).
 
With that said, here are some areas in which I diverted from the original kit.  I know these comments are very brief, if anyone has any comments/questions please do not hesitate to ask.  I am by no means an expert so any comments are greatly appreciated.
 
Copper Plates: After a brief (but unsuccessful) try at using the kit supplied plates I decided to use 3M black back copper foil Venture Tape #3M1765 - 1/4" width. I had real trouble fitting the kit supplied plates at the bow and stern areas having to cut them to fit the curves. Using the copper tape, I created strips of 4 plates adding the rivet details lightly with a very small pounce wheel. The tape was thin enough to allow to to navigate the curves and the adhesive back was very strong so they stayed put once set in place.  I did use the kit supplied plates on the rudder assembly however as I did not have any issues fitting the plates at this location.  Once completed, I darkened the plates using Liver of Sulphur extended life gel by EuroTool that I found on EBay. Follow the instructions carefully.  Two notes of caution.  The stuff darkened the copper very quickly, almost on contact.  Have clean water and a soft cloth ready to neutralize and rinse off the solution. Once dry, I buffed out the copper using a soft dry cloth which brought out some highlights in the copper. And secondly, work outside unless you want your house smelling like rotting eggs!  
Rigging Line:  I decided to try my luck at making my own line using Syren Model's "Rocket" rope walk.  After trying to make the line using synthetic thread, I landed on using Gutterman 100% cotton thread Dark Brown #2960 and Taupe #1225 purchased thru WAWAK in NJ.  The synthetic thread stretched a bit and I couldn't get the feel for it.  When I cut the line, it shriveled up looking like a gypsy moth caterpillar on my work bench.  I also wasn't too keen on having to set the synthetic line in the toaster oven.  The cotton thread worked better for me and the "frizzies" associated with using cotton thread was minimal.  I did not finish the line with beeswax.  It left a whitish coat which was especially visible on the darker standing rigging.
Sails:  The most difficult aspect of this model was in the making of the sails.  Many of the line controlling the sails was not included in the instructions/belaying plans.  I referred to the references mentioned above.  And yes, I am sure I made a number of mistakes that many more experienced will notice but the important thing is to learned a lot and aim to get better with each model.  The sail material is two layers of Silkspan purchased thru Bluejacket.  I am not sure what weight it is as they only offer one weight.  I added the sail details using a #2 mechanical pencil (sail outline with 3/16" hem, reinforcement points, etc) before laminating the two sheets together.  I used a frame and taped the two sheets together prior to laminating.  I used a 10 to 1 ratio of water to white Elmer's glue then added some Tamiya "Dessert Tan"  to the mix to give the material an antique tan color.  The biggest problem I ran into were wrinkles in the fabric.  Had to make several sails over and the finished product still has some small wrinkles in them.
The bolt ropes, reef points and cringles were glues on the sails afterwards using matte medium which dried clear.
Flags:  I made the flags by first downloading the files from Google.  Since I was going for an earlier time period than when Lord Cochran was Master and Commander, I used the white ensign as Speedy worked primarily in anti smuggling operations in the home waters during the first part of her career.  Try to find as high a resolution in the files as possible.  I then taped a piece of silkspan over a piece of white 8.5 x 11 paper and ran it thru the desktop printer.  It might take several tries, but with the silkspan, the ink goes right thru the material and you get a double sided flag.  Once cut to size ( I left a tab on the ensign side to fold over to create a reinforcement point when attaching the halyards) I finished the flag off with spray on matte fixative and let dry.  While it is drying you can work the flag to give it more of a curl as when flown in a breeze.
Sailors & Marines:  These were purchased thru Vanguard Models and are exceptionally detailed which makes them a bit more easier to paint when you can see the crisp details.  I used Tamiya acrylic colors dusted with pastel chalk to bring out some details.  The figures were then topcoated in matte clear lacquer.
Display Stand:  Rather than use the clear acrylic cradle which comes with the kit, I used the acrylic pieces as templates and fabricated anew cradle in 1/4" solid walnut. I lined the inside face of each cradle with green felt.  The base of my display case is white ash with walnut trim.  The case itself is fabricated from 1/4" acrylic and siliconed together.
 
Thanks if you reached this far in the reading.  I hope this helps many of the newer members of our hobby.  I recommend this kit to anyone as it build into a very beautiful model!
 
 

Some of you guys may have noticed the announcement on my website about the ropewalk availability.  Its been a while.   Long story short,  yet another supplier who discontinued making all the gears and all of the hubs and hardware I used to make the ropewalks.  No warning...they just discontinued them.
 
But fear not....I have sourced new gears and hubs and hardware.  Of course they are a different pitch diameter and with a different hole configuration etc.  Basically I had to redesign the entire ropewalk.  It is essentially the same machine as the size of all the parts just changed.   But new drawings and files were needed.
 
I did make the Rope Rocket a bit taller in this new version 2.0.   I also added some bearings.  This makes for a quieter machine and imagine it will also extend its life.  Although nobody makes as much rope as I do on these things.  In fact I am still using my 8 year old version 1.0 machine and its still kicking after hundreds of miles of rope.
 
I am putting the new version 2.0 Rope Rocket through its paces right now.  Its all going rather well.  Like I said its the same basic machine.  The gears are about 2mm larger in diameter this time.  Here is a pic of a freshly made machine.  I must write new instructions.
 

You can still swap to a 4 strand rope as well just like the original.  These two pics show the bearings in position which makes for a smoother ride.
 


 
So if you were waiting for the new V2 Rope Rocket,  it wont be long now.  I just have to write the new assembly instructions and make a bunch of them.
 
Same great taste!!!  You really wouldnt notice any change if you dont have both versions.   Makes pretty fantastic looking rope....same operating instructions.  slightly different assembly instructions.
 
The downside....its $8 more expensive than the original version 1.0....Of course it is, LOL  
That just couldn't be avoided in this day and age.  Supply chains is a real tough nut these days.
 
And yes I kept the fun imagery of the Rocket on the back side of this version.    I didnt bother adding a finish to this v 2.0 test but its the same beautiful solid cherry.  Maybe I will give it a coat of wipe on poly....but mine will get bloody filthy in a few weeks anyways.  So it doesnt matter.
 

 
 
 
 
 

Is that HMS Bristol taking shape?

Just messin'

OK, I have just finished what I need to regarding building up the new Speedy hull.
 
These pics will show what has changed. The old Speedy required planking all the way to the top of the bulwarks, also the inner bulwarks. 
 
The new version is completely pre cut from the main wale up, with spirketting added for the inner bulwarks, plus engraved planking and treenail detail for all surfaces. All channels, inner bulwark belaying racks and cleats now slot and glue into place, in pre cut slots, saving the need for pinning and gluing.
 
Please bear in mind that the model shown has no real finishing, no varnish etc. It was used just to add new pictures to the revised manual.
 
I will now spend the rest of the week updating the manual, ready to send to printers, and next week, start cutting the new sheets, so I hope to have this re released in around 2 weeks.