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HM Brig-Sloop Speedy by DennisL - FINISHED - Vanguard Models


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Here is my summary along with pictures of my just completed model of the HM Brig-Sloop by Vanguard Models.  The kit itself, both quality of the materials and the accompanying instructions are superb! A number of build logs are have been done on this kit and thanks to them, I had some great hints and tips during the build of this project. Rather than add another build log ( I must admit at 70 years old and not very computer literate, the thought still intimidates me a bit) I've decided to add a few areas in which I diverged from the "out of the box" build.  Over-all, the project took me 650 hours to build.  Not sure if this about right or if I proceed at a snails pace.  I'm somewhat of a minimalist when it comes to tools.  An exacto handle with #11 blades, an old 12" Craftsman band saw and some small hands tools is about all I use.  For refences I used Steele's Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging (1794),Darcy Lever The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor (1819), Lees The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1869 (1979) and Ian McLaughlin The Sloop of War 1660-1763 (2014).

 

With that said, here are some areas in which I diverted from the original kit.  I know these comments are very brief, if anyone has any comments/questions please do not hesitate to ask.  I am by no means an expert so any comments are greatly appreciated.

 

Copper Plates: After a brief (but unsuccessful) try at using the kit supplied plates I decided to use 3M black back copper foil Venture Tape #3M1765 - 1/4" width. I had real trouble fitting the kit supplied plates at the bow and stern areas having to cut them to fit the curves. Using the copper tape, I created strips of 4 plates adding the rivet details lightly with a very small pounce wheel. The tape was thin enough to allow to to navigate the curves and the adhesive back was very strong so they stayed put once set in place.  I did use the kit supplied plates on the rudder assembly however as I did not have any issues fitting the plates at this location.  Once completed, I darkened the plates using Liver of Sulphur extended life gel by EuroTool that I found on EBay. Follow the instructions carefully.  Two notes of caution.  The stuff darkened the copper very quickly, almost on contact.  Have clean water and a soft cloth ready to neutralize and rinse off the solution. Once dry, I buffed out the copper using a soft dry cloth which brought out some highlights in the copper. And secondly, work outside unless you want your house smelling like rotting eggs!  

Rigging Line:  I decided to try my luck at making my own line using Syren Model's "Rocket" rope walk.  After trying to make the line using synthetic thread, I landed on using Gutterman 100% cotton thread Dark Brown #2960 and Taupe #1225 purchased thru WAWAK in NJ.  The synthetic thread stretched a bit and I couldn't get the feel for it.  When I cut the line, it shriveled up looking like a gypsy moth caterpillar on my work bench.  I also wasn't too keen on having to set the synthetic line in the toaster oven.  The cotton thread worked better for me and the "frizzies" associated with using cotton thread was minimal.  I did not finish the line with beeswax.  It left a whitish coat which was especially visible on the darker standing rigging.

Sails:  The most difficult aspect of this model was in the making of the sails.  Many of the line controlling the sails was not included in the instructions/belaying plans.  I referred to the references mentioned above.  And yes, I am sure I made a number of mistakes that many more experienced will notice but the important thing is to learned a lot and aim to get better with each model.  The sail material is two layers of Silkspan purchased thru Bluejacket.  I am not sure what weight it is as they only offer one weight.  I added the sail details using a #2 mechanical pencil (sail outline with 3/16" hem, reinforcement points, etc) before laminating the two sheets together.  I used a frame and taped the two sheets together prior to laminating.  I used a 10 to 1 ratio of water to white Elmer's glue then added some Tamiya "Dessert Tan"  to the mix to give the material an antique tan color.  The biggest problem I ran into were wrinkles in the fabric.  Had to make several sails over and the finished product still has some small wrinkles in them.

The bolt ropes, reef points and cringles were glues on the sails afterwards using matte medium which dried clear.

Flags:  I made the flags by first downloading the files from Google.  Since I was going for an earlier time period than when Lord Cochran was Master and Commander, I used the white ensign as Speedy worked primarily in anti smuggling operations in the home waters during the first part of her career.  Try to find as high a resolution in the files as possible.  I then taped a piece of silkspan over a piece of white 8.5 x 11 paper and ran it thru the desktop printer.  It might take several tries, but with the silkspan, the ink goes right thru the material and you get a double sided flag.  Once cut to size ( I left a tab on the ensign side to fold over to create a reinforcement point when attaching the halyards) I finished the flag off with spray on matte fixative and let dry.  While it is drying you can work the flag to give it more of a curl as when flown in a breeze.

Sailors & Marines:  These were purchased thru Vanguard Models and are exceptionally detailed which makes them a bit more easier to paint when you can see the crisp details.  I used Tamiya acrylic colors dusted with pastel chalk to bring out some details.  The figures were then topcoated in matte clear lacquer.

Display Stand:  Rather than use the clear acrylic cradle which comes with the kit, I used the acrylic pieces as templates and fabricated anew cradle in 1/4" solid walnut. I lined the inside face of each cradle with green felt.  The base of my display case is white ash with walnut trim.  The case itself is fabricated from 1/4" acrylic and siliconed together.

 

Thanks if you reached this far in the reading.  I hope this helps many of the newer members of our hobby.  I recommend this kit to anyone as it build into a very beautiful model!

 

 

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What color/brand of red did you use for your bulwarks?

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

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Dennis, congratulations on finishing Speedy. I think that your “diversions” have made this one of the finest examples out there. The copper looks great against the wood of the hull and the action shots of the deck are top notch!

Regards……..Paul 

 

Completed Builds   Glad Tidings Model Shipways. -   Nordland Boat. Billings Boats . -  HM Cutter Cheerful-1806  Syren Model Ship Company. 

 

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That is, simply, stunning!

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Congratulations on the completion of a wonderful model, Denis. You've certainly made it your own. I'll bet there is a grandkid salivating to get it one day!

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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Thanks to everyone who responded to my post on the Speedy! Much appreciated.

 

As to Chuck's question on what I used for the color red, I used some Tamiya acrylics left over from my plastic model days.  I mixed a 6:1 ratio of flat red to sky gray.  The sky gray toned down the red and made the color more like an earth pigment red.

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