donrobinson

Hello everyone, I'm hoping you are all having a good day and your shipyards are active.
 I have been busy planking the hull and now the deck, two layers, for what now seems a eternity so yesterday I decided to turn my attention to something required further on in the build.
 The aft cabin has a rail on top of it that needs to have stanchions, these are made from 3 mm dowel and then shaped accordingly. Although nothing real fancy or anything, I thought you may want to see how I made them.
 

3 mm dowel in chuck 
 

First cut is made, .100 from the end and .021 deep
 

second cut made, .460 from the end and .01 deep
 

Shaping is done using a sanding stick on the backside
 

 
Final shaping done and parting groove is cut at .560 from the end. Final parting was done with a razor saw, with lathe turned off
 

Culling out the rejects, on the left
 

Length when parted from lathe is .560 inches or approximately 14 mm, which allows for 1 mm to be sanded off each end to arrive at a final measurement of 12 mm. When I tried to make these at the exact length the 1 mm collar would chip or break so making them longer prevented this. I used a Byrnes disc sander for sanding the ends which made this part of the job very easy.
 As you can see nothing out of the ordinary but it was lots of fun, and Doug(Heronguy), if you are reading, this is the reason you NEED a lathe
 For anyone considering buying a mill, having a DRO(digital read out) really helps for something like this when there are repetitive cuts. It saves on mistakes and time, I would defiantly recommend buying one when ordering a mill.
 
 You all have fun and enjoy the weekend. It's snowing here now so it looks like I'll be storm stayed for the weekend , luckily enough the food and refreshment fridges are both well stocked!!

Hey David, Thanks for looking things over. There is always room for more

Hello everyone, I'm hoping you are all having a good day and your shipyards are active.
 I have been busy planking the hull and now the deck, two layers, for what now seems a eternity so yesterday I decided to turn my attention to something required further on in the build.
 The aft cabin has a rail on top of it that needs to have stanchions, these are made from 3 mm dowel and then shaped accordingly. Although nothing real fancy or anything, I thought you may want to see how I made them.
 

3 mm dowel in chuck 
 

First cut is made, .100 from the end and .021 deep
 

second cut made, .460 from the end and .01 deep
 

Shaping is done using a sanding stick on the backside
 

 
Final shaping done and parting groove is cut at .560 from the end. Final parting was done with a razor saw, with lathe turned off
 

Culling out the rejects, on the left
 

Length when parted from lathe is .560 inches or approximately 14 mm, which allows for 1 mm to be sanded off each end to arrive at a final measurement of 12 mm. When I tried to make these at the exact length the 1 mm collar would chip or break so making them longer prevented this. I used a Byrnes disc sander for sanding the ends which made this part of the job very easy.
 As you can see nothing out of the ordinary but it was lots of fun, and Doug(Heronguy), if you are reading, this is the reason you NEED a lathe
 For anyone considering buying a mill, having a DRO(digital read out) really helps for something like this when there are repetitive cuts. It saves on mistakes and time, I would defiantly recommend buying one when ordering a mill.
 
 You all have fun and enjoy the weekend. It's snowing here now so it looks like I'll be storm stayed for the weekend , luckily enough the food and refreshment fridges are both well stocked!!

Hello everyone, I'm hoping you are all having a good day and your shipyards are active.
 I have been busy planking the hull and now the deck, two layers, for what now seems a eternity so yesterday I decided to turn my attention to something required further on in the build.
 The aft cabin has a rail on top of it that needs to have stanchions, these are made from 3 mm dowel and then shaped accordingly. Although nothing real fancy or anything, I thought you may want to see how I made them.
 

3 mm dowel in chuck 
 

First cut is made, .100 from the end and .021 deep
 

second cut made, .460 from the end and .01 deep
 

Shaping is done using a sanding stick on the backside
 

 
Final shaping done and parting groove is cut at .560 from the end. Final parting was done with a razor saw, with lathe turned off
 

Culling out the rejects, on the left
 

Length when parted from lathe is .560 inches or approximately 14 mm, which allows for 1 mm to be sanded off each end to arrive at a final measurement of 12 mm. When I tried to make these at the exact length the 1 mm collar would chip or break so making them longer prevented this. I used a Byrnes disc sander for sanding the ends which made this part of the job very easy.
 As you can see nothing out of the ordinary but it was lots of fun, and Doug(Heronguy), if you are reading, this is the reason you NEED a lathe
 For anyone considering buying a mill, having a DRO(digital read out) really helps for something like this when there are repetitive cuts. It saves on mistakes and time, I would defiantly recommend buying one when ordering a mill.
 
 You all have fun and enjoy the weekend. It's snowing here now so it looks like I'll be storm stayed for the weekend , luckily enough the food and refreshment fridges are both well stocked!!

Good Morning all, thanks for all the great comments, visits and likes. Since my last post there has not been too much activity in the shipyard but I have completed the planking on the port side. All went as expected and with no surprises. Unlike the first layer I did not bother to taper the planks resulting in having to use three stealers at the stern, these will be covered by copper plates so I was not that worried about this. I found trying to taper the .5 mm planks was just not worth the effort for something that was going to be either painted or covered with plates. So I guess I did do it the easier way in some ways . I could not resist putting a coat of wipe on poly to see how the beech would look, this will be sanded and act as my sealer for the paint and plates. I really like the looks of the beech and think it is defiantly worth considering for future builds.
 Not much to show but here it is: 

Putting in a stealer
 

Planking completed
 

Stern trimmed
 

Bow trimmed and coat of wipe on poly
 

Wipe on poly is still a little wet, if you look at the transom you can see some of the beech without any poly. Love how this wood looks

Hello everyone, I'm hoping you are all having a good day and your shipyards are active.
 I have been busy planking the hull and now the deck, two layers, for what now seems a eternity so yesterday I decided to turn my attention to something required further on in the build.
 The aft cabin has a rail on top of it that needs to have stanchions, these are made from 3 mm dowel and then shaped accordingly. Although nothing real fancy or anything, I thought you may want to see how I made them.
 

3 mm dowel in chuck 
 

First cut is made, .100 from the end and .021 deep
 

second cut made, .460 from the end and .01 deep
 

Shaping is done using a sanding stick on the backside
 

 
Final shaping done and parting groove is cut at .560 from the end. Final parting was done with a razor saw, with lathe turned off
 

Culling out the rejects, on the left
 

Length when parted from lathe is .560 inches or approximately 14 mm, which allows for 1 mm to be sanded off each end to arrive at a final measurement of 12 mm. When I tried to make these at the exact length the 1 mm collar would chip or break so making them longer prevented this. I used a Byrnes disc sander for sanding the ends which made this part of the job very easy.
 As you can see nothing out of the ordinary but it was lots of fun, and Doug(Heronguy), if you are reading, this is the reason you NEED a lathe
 For anyone considering buying a mill, having a DRO(digital read out) really helps for something like this when there are repetitive cuts. It saves on mistakes and time, I would defiantly recommend buying one when ordering a mill.
 
 You all have fun and enjoy the weekend. It's snowing here now so it looks like I'll be storm stayed for the weekend , luckily enough the food and refreshment fridges are both well stocked!!

Mike: That's where I heard of the idea too but forgot to mention it, thanks for reminding me. If I remember right I ordered mine the very day B.E. mentioned it!!
 
Nils: Thank You for taking the time to stop in and for your gracious comment

Hello everyone, I'm hoping you are all having a good day and your shipyards are active.
 I have been busy planking the hull and now the deck, two layers, for what now seems a eternity so yesterday I decided to turn my attention to something required further on in the build.
 The aft cabin has a rail on top of it that needs to have stanchions, these are made from 3 mm dowel and then shaped accordingly. Although nothing real fancy or anything, I thought you may want to see how I made them.
 

3 mm dowel in chuck 
 

First cut is made, .100 from the end and .021 deep
 

second cut made, .460 from the end and .01 deep
 

Shaping is done using a sanding stick on the backside
 

 
Final shaping done and parting groove is cut at .560 from the end. Final parting was done with a razor saw, with lathe turned off
 

Culling out the rejects, on the left
 

Length when parted from lathe is .560 inches or approximately 14 mm, which allows for 1 mm to be sanded off each end to arrive at a final measurement of 12 mm. When I tried to make these at the exact length the 1 mm collar would chip or break so making them longer prevented this. I used a Byrnes disc sander for sanding the ends which made this part of the job very easy.
 As you can see nothing out of the ordinary but it was lots of fun, and Doug(Heronguy), if you are reading, this is the reason you NEED a lathe
 For anyone considering buying a mill, having a DRO(digital read out) really helps for something like this when there are repetitive cuts. It saves on mistakes and time, I would defiantly recommend buying one when ordering a mill.
 
 You all have fun and enjoy the weekend. It's snowing here now so it looks like I'll be storm stayed for the weekend , luckily enough the food and refreshment fridges are both well stocked!!

Hey David, Thanks for looking things over. There is always room for more

Hello everyone, I'm hoping you are all having a good day and your shipyards are active.
 I have been busy planking the hull and now the deck, two layers, for what now seems a eternity so yesterday I decided to turn my attention to something required further on in the build.
 The aft cabin has a rail on top of it that needs to have stanchions, these are made from 3 mm dowel and then shaped accordingly. Although nothing real fancy or anything, I thought you may want to see how I made them.
 

3 mm dowel in chuck 
 

First cut is made, .100 from the end and .021 deep
 

second cut made, .460 from the end and .01 deep
 

Shaping is done using a sanding stick on the backside
 

 
Final shaping done and parting groove is cut at .560 from the end. Final parting was done with a razor saw, with lathe turned off
 

Culling out the rejects, on the left
 

Length when parted from lathe is .560 inches or approximately 14 mm, which allows for 1 mm to be sanded off each end to arrive at a final measurement of 12 mm. When I tried to make these at the exact length the 1 mm collar would chip or break so making them longer prevented this. I used a Byrnes disc sander for sanding the ends which made this part of the job very easy.
 As you can see nothing out of the ordinary but it was lots of fun, and Doug(Heronguy), if you are reading, this is the reason you NEED a lathe
 For anyone considering buying a mill, having a DRO(digital read out) really helps for something like this when there are repetitive cuts. It saves on mistakes and time, I would defiantly recommend buying one when ordering a mill.
 
 You all have fun and enjoy the weekend. It's snowing here now so it looks like I'll be storm stayed for the weekend , luckily enough the food and refreshment fridges are both well stocked!!

Hello everyone, I'm hoping you are all having a good day and your shipyards are active.
 I have been busy planking the hull and now the deck, two layers, for what now seems a eternity so yesterday I decided to turn my attention to something required further on in the build.
 The aft cabin has a rail on top of it that needs to have stanchions, these are made from 3 mm dowel and then shaped accordingly. Although nothing real fancy or anything, I thought you may want to see how I made them.
 

3 mm dowel in chuck 
 

First cut is made, .100 from the end and .021 deep
 

second cut made, .460 from the end and .01 deep
 

Shaping is done using a sanding stick on the backside
 

 
Final shaping done and parting groove is cut at .560 from the end. Final parting was done with a razor saw, with lathe turned off
 

Culling out the rejects, on the left
 

Length when parted from lathe is .560 inches or approximately 14 mm, which allows for 1 mm to be sanded off each end to arrive at a final measurement of 12 mm. When I tried to make these at the exact length the 1 mm collar would chip or break so making them longer prevented this. I used a Byrnes disc sander for sanding the ends which made this part of the job very easy.
 As you can see nothing out of the ordinary but it was lots of fun, and Doug(Heronguy), if you are reading, this is the reason you NEED a lathe
 For anyone considering buying a mill, having a DRO(digital read out) really helps for something like this when there are repetitive cuts. It saves on mistakes and time, I would defiantly recommend buying one when ordering a mill.
 
 You all have fun and enjoy the weekend. It's snowing here now so it looks like I'll be storm stayed for the weekend , luckily enough the food and refreshment fridges are both well stocked!!

Hello everyone, I'm hoping you are all having a good day and your shipyards are active.
 I have been busy planking the hull and now the deck, two layers, for what now seems a eternity so yesterday I decided to turn my attention to something required further on in the build.
 The aft cabin has a rail on top of it that needs to have stanchions, these are made from 3 mm dowel and then shaped accordingly. Although nothing real fancy or anything, I thought you may want to see how I made them.
 

3 mm dowel in chuck 
 

First cut is made, .100 from the end and .021 deep
 

second cut made, .460 from the end and .01 deep
 

Shaping is done using a sanding stick on the backside
 

 
Final shaping done and parting groove is cut at .560 from the end. Final parting was done with a razor saw, with lathe turned off
 

Culling out the rejects, on the left
 

Length when parted from lathe is .560 inches or approximately 14 mm, which allows for 1 mm to be sanded off each end to arrive at a final measurement of 12 mm. When I tried to make these at the exact length the 1 mm collar would chip or break so making them longer prevented this. I used a Byrnes disc sander for sanding the ends which made this part of the job very easy.
 As you can see nothing out of the ordinary but it was lots of fun, and Doug(Heronguy), if you are reading, this is the reason you NEED a lathe
 For anyone considering buying a mill, having a DRO(digital read out) really helps for something like this when there are repetitive cuts. It saves on mistakes and time, I would defiantly recommend buying one when ordering a mill.
 
 You all have fun and enjoy the weekend. It's snowing here now so it looks like I'll be storm stayed for the weekend , luckily enough the food and refreshment fridges are both well stocked!!

Hey David, Thanks for looking things over. There is always room for more

Hello everyone, I'm hoping you are all having a good day and your shipyards are active.
 I have been busy planking the hull and now the deck, two layers, for what now seems a eternity so yesterday I decided to turn my attention to something required further on in the build.
 The aft cabin has a rail on top of it that needs to have stanchions, these are made from 3 mm dowel and then shaped accordingly. Although nothing real fancy or anything, I thought you may want to see how I made them.
 

3 mm dowel in chuck 
 

First cut is made, .100 from the end and .021 deep
 

second cut made, .460 from the end and .01 deep
 

Shaping is done using a sanding stick on the backside
 

 
Final shaping done and parting groove is cut at .560 from the end. Final parting was done with a razor saw, with lathe turned off
 

Culling out the rejects, on the left
 

Length when parted from lathe is .560 inches or approximately 14 mm, which allows for 1 mm to be sanded off each end to arrive at a final measurement of 12 mm. When I tried to make these at the exact length the 1 mm collar would chip or break so making them longer prevented this. I used a Byrnes disc sander for sanding the ends which made this part of the job very easy.
 As you can see nothing out of the ordinary but it was lots of fun, and Doug(Heronguy), if you are reading, this is the reason you NEED a lathe
 For anyone considering buying a mill, having a DRO(digital read out) really helps for something like this when there are repetitive cuts. It saves on mistakes and time, I would defiantly recommend buying one when ordering a mill.
 
 You all have fun and enjoy the weekend. It's snowing here now so it looks like I'll be storm stayed for the weekend , luckily enough the food and refreshment fridges are both well stocked!!

Hello everyone, I'm hoping you are all having a good day and your shipyards are active.
 I have been busy planking the hull and now the deck, two layers, for what now seems a eternity so yesterday I decided to turn my attention to something required further on in the build.
 The aft cabin has a rail on top of it that needs to have stanchions, these are made from 3 mm dowel and then shaped accordingly. Although nothing real fancy or anything, I thought you may want to see how I made them.
 

3 mm dowel in chuck 
 

First cut is made, .100 from the end and .021 deep
 

second cut made, .460 from the end and .01 deep
 

Shaping is done using a sanding stick on the backside
 

 
Final shaping done and parting groove is cut at .560 from the end. Final parting was done with a razor saw, with lathe turned off
 

Culling out the rejects, on the left
 

Length when parted from lathe is .560 inches or approximately 14 mm, which allows for 1 mm to be sanded off each end to arrive at a final measurement of 12 mm. When I tried to make these at the exact length the 1 mm collar would chip or break so making them longer prevented this. I used a Byrnes disc sander for sanding the ends which made this part of the job very easy.
 As you can see nothing out of the ordinary but it was lots of fun, and Doug(Heronguy), if you are reading, this is the reason you NEED a lathe
 For anyone considering buying a mill, having a DRO(digital read out) really helps for something like this when there are repetitive cuts. It saves on mistakes and time, I would defiantly recommend buying one when ordering a mill.
 
 You all have fun and enjoy the weekend. It's snowing here now so it looks like I'll be storm stayed for the weekend , luckily enough the food and refreshment fridges are both well stocked!!

The stern is looking brilliant, great work

Great idea with the ear ring backs, I've had the same problem in the past

Great idea with the ear ring backs, I've had the same problem in the past

May not be historically accurate but it surer looks good

I`m thinking it`s time to put your mill skills to use and build new carriages. If you still need more adjustment after the axles have been adjusted deepening  the trunion grooves will also lower them a bit. You could also flatten the upper side of the axles. 

Good morning all, thanks for the comments, likes and visits.
 Since my last post the hull planking has been completed. I stained and put a coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side to see how the beech would look, I'll let you be the judges. Next was removing the bulkhead extensions, cleaning up the freeboard(bulwarks), then carving out the stern area down to deck level. 
Here are the pictures:

Here is the beech stained and a coat of wipe on poly. I used a water based stain and only one coat of it. another coat may have improved the look or possibly a coat of sanding sealer. Overlooking the obvious glue stains you can see it does not take stain very evenly. My conclusion is that beech looks better without a stain, should be left clear or painted, which is coming up soon 
 

Removing the bulkhead extensions using a veneer saw. These came off quite easily and posed no problems, the veneer saw is defiantly the tool for this job.
 
About to start the removal of the stern filler block
 

Filler block removed, filler was later applied to floor and sides. The important part here is to maintain the curvature and rise of the deck, this simply done by laying a plank along the bulkhead tops and watching how it is lays. Much the same as you would do when fairing a hull.    
 

These last pictures are showing the cleaning of the freeboard, they will be eventually painted, and the fairing of the bulkhead tops. When fairing the bulkhead tops it is again important to maintain the curve and also to have a consistent height from the top of the bulkhead to the to of the freeboard.
 
That's all for now, next is the first layer of planking on the deck.
See You soon 

This baby is really looking super fine!!

Glad to have you as a sponsor and thanks, I think..........having you this little bit closer could be a further danger to my budget 

Glad to have you as a sponsor and thanks, I think..........having you this little bit closer could be a further danger to my budget 

It all looks so fine Nils, fantastic work. So many things to look at and admire it's hard to find appropriate words to describe it all