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CDW
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Hi Mike I just caught up with your log. Your work looks great! Looking forward to following your progress in the future. -
In the middle of my hobby fun, chores around the house have gone front and center. I have some things to take care of that are due, so must spend some days finishing those up before I can return to this big bird. Meanwhile, I'm waiting for a set of canopy masks to arrive from England and paint from New Hampshire. As MacArthur said, I shall return.
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Your Wulfhound is looking beautiful Denis. It's going to be a very unique piece when you're through with it. Keep up the great work.
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Don't ever assume you're good with a hard drive because they can fail without any notice whatsoever. I learned that lesson the hard way when I lost everything stored on two separate hard drives. 1.5 terabytes in total. I lost pictures, documents and plans I had stored for many years. Only way to give yourself some confidence is to have redundant backup systems including the cloud. Costs money so that's something to keep in mind.
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Considering how many warbirds Kermit Weeks owns, it's amazing his recall of all the control functions in the Mossie cockpit. And when you watch his videos, you'll notice he has this recall of every aircraft he owns which tells me he gets in a hella lot of flying time as well has having a great memory. These aircraft were fairly complex and each different type had their own peculiarities.
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My buddy was at a blues festival just a couple of months ago here in Florida, and ran across Kermit Weeks who was attending the same festival. He's really a cool, regular guy who is lucky enough to own and fly literally dozens of warbirds including the Mossie in these videos.
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OC What color are you going to use for the cockpit area. Do all British WW2 aircraft share the same cockpit color? For US aircraft, it's almost universally zinc chromate green. You can get that color by mixing Tamiya's green and lemon yellow, but they (Tamiya) don't sell a premixed color for zinc chromate. For my current project, I've been using Vallejo Model Air zinc chromate, but recently found out I had bought the only bottle of it in town. If I had known it was that scarce, I would have mixed my own with Tamiya paints. I had to order some Vallejo from another state and am waiting for it to arrive.
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Very nice progress OC, and I like that Spitfire. Excellent detail. Your attention to detail on the bomb bay is paying off.
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A dry run to see if the cockpit/bomb bay/gunner stations fit correctly into the fuselage halves. So far, so good. There remains the ventral gunner's station and tail wheel compartment before the fuselage halves can be closed up. No doubt, this is the best opportunity to see the internal details as I'm sure much of it will not be seen after the halves are closed.
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I thing the Spitfire Mk IX was their best looking Spitfire of all. Should be a real nice kit.
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Thanks for the kind words Gary, but the Mr Metal Color paints are very easy to use. They excel at dry brushing as they contain very finely ground metal pigments. The more your use your (dry) brush, the metal color pops out. Very similar in some ways to the Testors Metalizer paints that were popular years ago (if you're familiar with those) but better.
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my 3-0 paintbrush and Tamiya yellow
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I meant to expound on this question, but almost forgot. Sorry about that. The old Gunze line of paints is now called Mr. Color. In the Mr. Color range are a set called Mr. Metal Color. For engines, I mainly use iron, aluminum, copper, and others from the range as necessary. I first paint the engine by spraying on a flat black base, then I dry brush using the appropriate Mr. Metal Colors. For the engine cylinders, iron. For the crankcase, aluminum. For the valve covers and push rods, I use Tamiya semi-gloss black. The ignition ring is Mr. Metal Color copper, while other parts are Tamiya acrylics. The exhaust manifolds are painted with Ammo Mig burnt exhaust. Most everything painted gets a wash of black and/or brown. The ignition wires are stripped scrap electrical wire painted with Tamiya acrylic. Hope this helps. If you think of something more specific, just ask and I'll do my best to answer.
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Thanks Ken
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Hmmmm...no I never bought that one. Airfix has come a long way in recent years, improving their products. At one time, buying an Airfix kit was hit or miss. Sometimes they released some real stinkers. Some of those 1:24 kits they produced didn't fit well at all and I didn't want to take a chance on the big Mossie. It could be a great kit but I just don't know. Big for sure!
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Bell UH-1H Huey By lmagna - Dragon - 1/35 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to lmagna's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Really? Who woulda thunk it? 😁 -
I'm looking forward to that 1:32 Wingnut Wings Lancaster that's coming out sometime this year.The prototype looks amazing. No aftermarket needed for that bad boy but it will require a lot of space to display it. 🙂
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Thanks OC. I have a lot of 1:32 kits to finish, including that big 1:32 Tamiya Mossie. They all come with a fair share of details right out of the box.
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Thank you Mark.
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Thanks Denis. At this scale, I feel like I'm cheating. 😁
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When you and I were talking, I thought that's what you were describing so yes, this is how to do it. Make sure to paint the back side of the acetate film white, or else the dials will not show up. Alternatively, you could paint the back panel white, but one way or the other, white needs to go on the back side of the acetate for it to come out right. PS: use either white glue (not the yellow wood glue) or acrylic glue to join the three instrument panels together. You can also use a drop of glue in each instrument so that when it dries, it will look like a lens.
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Thanks Lou. The fact this model is BIG helps a lot to achieve detail. The kit uses a plastic dash with holes molded in where the instrument dials are located, an acetate panel that has dial details printed on, then a molded plastic panel backing. The acetate gets sandwiched between the two plastic panels giving it a realistic look for the gauges. You have to paint the back side of the acetate with white before joining the three pieces together, as the acetate looks very similar to undeveloped film and if not painted white on the backside, no dial detail would be seen.
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Bell UH-1H Huey By lmagna - Dragon - 1/35 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to lmagna's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I suggest you acquire a bottle of Mr Color thinner, preferably the leveling thinner rather than the standard thinner, then use that to thin and paint the resin parts. Mix in 50:50 ratio for starters. Thin more if needed. It will stick much better than acrylic by far. The Mr. Color paints we talked about are solvent based paints and high quality as long as they have not deteriorated by age and/or extreme temperatures. Acrylic paints can be ruined if they are exposed to freezing temps.
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