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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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My guess is, each oar is a two-man oar arrangement. If we used modern standards, a 40' launch would be good for 24 men, presuming the beam was approximately 8'. It measures about 1/2" on the model. If the launch was designed for 24 men, six oar locks on each side would be correct (2-men per oar).- 467 replies
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Oh, I am with you 100%. 40' is a HUGE launch to row. I wondered if the little half round indentions on the sides of the launches are oar locks? Any idea?
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Maybe my math is wrong? I measured it as approximately, 2 1/2 inches long. 2.5 x 200 / 12 = 41.67 So, my close estimate is a 40' launch.
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It's just a 40' launch. 😄 Would probably safely handle about 30 sailors I would guess. It's longer than the steam powered launch on the rear, starboard side.
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Just goes to show...most people don't know crap about the subject material they watch on TV/movies/documentaries, but many (if not most) go away thinking that everything they saw and heard on TV/mob=vies/documentaries can be taken for gospel. A silly, naive and confused lot, we people. Happens all the time in every conceivable way. It's the way the puppet masters control their puppets.
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Port side, additional secondary guns, ship boat derricks, and railing.
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I may still do a set of torpedo nets. I just don't care much for the photo etch ones included with the Pontos set. They seem to thick, heavy, and "clunky". Something maybe in a very light fabric with a weave that's not so tight...that can be stretched and tinted to look like real netting. It almost needs to be similar to a fabric like hosiery is made from. I've seem other modelers use something similar and it looks very nice, much better than photo etch.
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As I commented earlier, there are more things to be done to complete Mikasa. Working on midship and stern areas, need to add the derricks for the ship boats mounted midship, midship railings, more secondary gun mounts. Then on the aft end, will add derricks and four more ship's boats, cable reels, then add all the torpedo net booms to the sides of the hull. Will add catwalks to both sides of hull, some scuppers to the deck, then a few more rigging items and the ensign staff. Then the aft railings. I've just about made my mind up to add the fancy boarding ladders. If I go this route, there will be no torpedo nets added, neither deployed or nor stowed. I am concerned to add deployed torpedo nets as it will make future handling or moving of the model very difficult without damaging it. To be realistic, I probably have another 2 weeks of work to do at the pace I'm currently moving.
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Thanks for the kind comment Cog, but she's not finished. Only meant to imply that the bow section was nearly finished. Still have quite a bit to do before I can call it finished. I just ordered some IJN flags for it yesterday from a shop in England. Hope they are what I'm expecting or else I'll have to print some out with my ink jet printer.
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Once again, thank you so much fellows for your nice comments. @Imagna...If I build a Russian ship from the same time period of the same scale, 1:200, it will have to be a paper model. That's the only other 1:200 pre dreadnoughts I have seen available.
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Thank you for the kind words, Denis. All three anchors and chains now installed. Except for the prominent Chrysanthemum emblem and IJN flag, the bow section is nearly completed now.
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A little trick I learned while building RC aircraft models...use the old formula Titebond as it is not water resistant as is the new formula. Why? If you make a mistake (as I often do), I can easily "disassemble" a glued part by moistening it with water. Of course, this is okay for static models or models that will not otherwise be exposed to water.
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Mike You are doing a 1st class job on this model. One of the best looking models of this type I have seen. Keep up the great work, am enjoying your progress photos and am encouraged to jump on some of the old Revell kits I've had sitting in wait for a long time.
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Is she darker than it appears in the pictures? Sometimes, my camera makes it look much lighter than it really is in real life. You are making swift progress. I'll bet you are really enjoying this build.
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Richmond I was just on the Freetime Hobbies Ukraine website. I am not sure they are still in business. They once offered payment by Paypal, but the only method they show now is Western Union. That doesn't seem a good omen to me. I tried to contact them by email, so I will let you know if I get a response back from them. CDW
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Richmond The name of the shop in Ukraine is Freetime Hobbies. This is their url: http://www.freetime.co.ua/en/ They were very prompt with their shipping as well.
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Thank you Phil and Paul. Your kind comments are motivation to continue and finish this project.
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Similar happened to me last time I wanted to order from GPM. I just emptied my cart and ended up buying the same items from a shop in Ukraine. Postage there was very reasonable as was the cost of the parts.
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Jack staff, anchor, some more rigging, and the beginning of the railings.
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I agree with your observation of how well Tamiya rattle can primer sticks to photo etch. It's a nice leveling primer for plastic, too. What frustrates me with the Tamiya rattle can paint is how frequently the can of paint becomes unusable long before all the paint is used up, due to clogs. I've tried everything I know to do to prevent this, but it happens way too often. Besides being expensive, I often am able to use about half the paint in the can before it clogs up to an extent that I cannot clear the clog, and/or the propellant gas inside the can is expired.
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Another word of advice to anyone building a model with the Pontos update sets, whether it be the Bismarck or any other model, try to pay close attention early on to all the photo etch parts on the frets. I have learned that the Pontos photo etch sets contain a lot of useful parts that are not mentioned in any way on the instruction sheets. I have learned this only after I searched out and purchased other aftermarket parts, then once I used all the instruction-identified Pontos photo etch parts, discovered they were included but not mentioned in the instructions. The most recent example of this for me was when I had to find and buy tie down points for my rigging, and then learned the Pontos photo etch sheets actually included them, but they were not mentioned on the instructions. There are other relevant parts included that are unidentified as well.
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I have been battling that "funky" Trumpeter plastic with my current build. Tamiya rattle can primer seems to go on without problems, but there are lots of problems with acrylics, even after the Tamiya primer has been applied. One would think perhaps the cause is unwashed plastic and residual mold release agent, but that's not it. I scrub these plastic parts down very well with a mild detergent before ever applying any paint. There is (I think) some odd additive in the plastic itself that's causing the problem. Weird and frustrating.
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