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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. CDW
    I need a digital copy of the 1:50 Heller Le Chebec instruction sheets. Does anyone have them or know where I might acquire a set? Have a complete kit, but no instructions.
  2. CDW
    Please Hide Your Ugly Crack All kidding aside, the front and rear bridge is glued down securely and gaps filled. 🤐
  3. CDW
    You mean to tell me you never saw any girls IRL who looked like the ones on Playboy? Lol - Just fun'in with you Lou. 🤩😏
  4. CDW
    If you were to use a wood grain decal, you would want to try and scale the decal as close to your ship's scale as possible, or else the grain would be way too large. Most of these decal sheets are for 1:48 to 1:32 scales. But I looked on Ebay and noticed they have these wood grain sheets for N scale railroad. That may be about as close as you will find to the scale you are working with, 1:200. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Microscale-601406-N-Scale-Decals-Textured-Plywood-Weathered-Wood-Grain/183383582275?epid=1307723479&hash=item2ab2836643:g:JT8AAOSwulxbdnTi
  5. CDW
    Vallejo sells a wood and leather paint set. It involves a primer first, then a base color, then 2 or 3 washes. Comes with a color brochure giving instructions on how to achieve the finish. It sounds like Flory's method involves fewer steps and may actually be easier to achieve the effect you want. The Vallejo set gives a wider range of options for finished color and tint. There used to be wood grain decals you could cut to fit your particular application. Some were quite nice. Often used to simulate WW1 aircraft plywood construction on planes such as the Albatross for example.
  6. CDW
    All that natural light sure does make those colors pop out nicely. Probably the DSLR hlps, too. But OC, she is looking mighty, mighty fine. Well done!
  7. CDW
    Lol - It's just sitting there as a dry-fit, posing for a picture. Nothing is permanently in place yet, or glued down. Trust me, there will be no gaps when it's done, but thanks for pointing it out.
  8. CDW
    I'm at about 90% now with the front bridge, and should finish it up tomorrow as long as I don't get called into action on some unforeseen endeavor...and that's been known to happen. I may begin with the masts after the front bridge is finished, as it may be better to do some of the mast rigging before the deck areas get all cluttered up. It gets pretty busy with all the launches. Will need to carefully look things over before I decide for sure.
  9. CDW
    Thanks Ron. I'll be interested to see your sample pieces using the Minwax product. My good buddy here in Tampa and I build scale RC aircraft. He uses Minwax stain a lot on his projects and likes it, too. What you've been using is the water based product? I think most all these stains are water based nowadays, rather than oil based like they used to be.
  10. CDW
    Ron While I could be open to staining the decks, my results in the past have been less than spectacular. It seemed the stain was inconsistent over large areas. Blotches of dark and light areas. Maybe it was due to the stain I was using. What type/brand did you test to get satisfactory results? It's late in the game for me to stain mine, but would like to know for the future, other builds. CDW
  11. CDW
    Next, I have to repeat an almost identical process to finish the front bridge. At least all the searchlights and guns are finished. Do any of you have any sources for period correct Japanese battle flags I could scale to this ship? All my kit came with are some color printed flags on glossy paper. They don't even appear to be in the correct scale. I guess if push comes to shove, I could scan what I have, size them how I want, then print them on clear or white decal paper.
  12. CDW
    Of all the suggestions so far, I believe this may be the most cost effective solution. Maybe not as aesthetically pleasing as a proper display case, but would keep the dust off and still allow a visual of all sides and top of the model. At least in the USA, used aquariums are sold for pennies on the dollar in thrift shops and even given away for free in classified sections of newspapers sometimes.
  13. CDW
    Searchlights, painted, detailed, and mounted.
  14. CDW
    Each of the search lights are 15 piece assemblies. I'll paint and detail these, then add the clear lenses and flanges last.
  15. CDW
    Ron, The thing about all of these Pontos (and others as well) update sets, is that the pictorial "instructions" are not a build guide at all. They are simply photos of how the parts go together. It's up to the individual modeler to work out their own assembly sequence as they see fit. You'll find yourself often going over each page of instructions over and over again, trying to find the particular photos you need for the step you're on. Best advice, read, read, read, look, look, look, then decide the way/order you think is best to tackle the model. You can see here how I did it, but that doesn't mean I did it right. There very well may be a different sequence that would work out better than the way I did it. Hope you have lots of fun doing yours! CDW
  16. CDW
    That's too simple! Just kidding, but really, I had no idea exactly what the correct terminology was. Thanks for that. I wonder how they directed their voice to where they wanted it, or did it just go out to whomever was listening regardless of where they were located? I'm guessing everyone heard it.
  17. CDW
    There's no doubt, the individual stanchions and wire look better than preformed PE rails. Particularly when zoomed in. Now whether or not the average person who casually looks at the model will recognize the difference is another story. But in the end, it's you, the modeler, who has to like what they're doing.
  18. CDW
    Plodding along. Here is the rear bridge sans search lights, ladders, and crew figures. What does one call the two pipes coming up on each side of the binnacle? I'm guessing those are the pipes used for verbal communication with the engine room and so forth, but I have no idea what they're called. Anyone know?
  19. CDW
    Oh, wow Ron! That's going to be fun to see your Mikasa. I am looking forward to that. I think one of the prominent features of this ship will be it's boats. I'm going to try to find some reference pictures for them, but may have to use some creative license to get what I want. I hope you will come back and let me know when you start your Mikasa build so I don't miss it. Thanks for your kind comments and for stopping by.
  20. CDW
    I built scale models for many years, but primarily cars, motorcycles, aircraft, and military vehicles, UNTIL I read this little book around/about 1990. After that, I jumped right into ship models. If you ever have a chance to pick up a copy of this book, by all means, get it. The author does some amazing things with plastic ship models. Inspiring, for sure.
  21. CDW
    My feelings on the extreme small stuff mirror yours. If I can't see it, leave it out.
  22. CDW
    Thank you Ken. The two bridges will get pretty busy once it's all done and in place. I think the little structure on top of the rear bridge is the pilot house. I could be mistaken.
  23. CDW
    Rear bridge with top deck attached. More detail to come on top deck later.
  24. CDW
    Finished up the remaining 47mm deck guns today. That takes care of all the secondary guns.
  25. CDW
    In the past few days, I met a modeler in the USA who has been building scale models for more than 75 years. He is 87 years of age and still going strong. He builds in all scales, types, and mediums. His finished work on plastic sailing ship models is amazing. But the thing that jumped out at me and reminded me of you, OC, is that he does all his painting and detailing with a brush like you do it. The two of you have given me a new respect for what can be done with a simple little paint brush. Outstanding.

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