CDW

I received this 1:28 Revell Spad model kit today. The thing that makes this kit remarkable is the fact this is the original first production run of the kit from 1965. It's been re boxed and re released many times since over the years.
This one has the parts, instructions, and decals still sealed inside in their original bag. An examination of the parts bag reveals little to no flash at all and the molded parts are very sharp and crisp. I remember building the original kit in this same box from back then, 1965 or 66 when my big brother was in Viet Nam with 1st Air Cav.
 

Here is something I often do for attachment points that's small, strong, and easily created yourself. Find some scrap computer component wire or other similar wire of small/fine gauge. Strip the insulation off the wire to use the fine strands to twist into loops like these (seen in the white paint pallet):
 

I received this 1:28 Revell Spad model kit today. The thing that makes this kit remarkable is the fact this is the original first production run of the kit from 1965. It's been re boxed and re released many times since over the years.
This one has the parts, instructions, and decals still sealed inside in their original bag. An examination of the parts bag reveals little to no flash at all and the molded parts are very sharp and crisp. I remember building the original kit in this same box from back then, 1965 or 66 when my big brother was in Viet Nam with 1st Air Cav.
 

Here is something I often do for attachment points that's small, strong, and easily created yourself. Find some scrap computer component wire or other similar wire of small/fine gauge. Strip the insulation off the wire to use the fine strands to twist into loops like these (seen in the white paint pallet):
 

I received this 1:28 Revell Spad model kit today. The thing that makes this kit remarkable is the fact this is the original first production run of the kit from 1965. It's been re boxed and re released many times since over the years.
This one has the parts, instructions, and decals still sealed inside in their original bag. An examination of the parts bag reveals little to no flash at all and the molded parts are very sharp and crisp. I remember building the original kit in this same box from back then, 1965 or 66 when my big brother was in Viet Nam with 1st Air Cav.
 

I received this 1:28 Revell Spad model kit today. The thing that makes this kit remarkable is the fact this is the original first production run of the kit from 1965. It's been re boxed and re released many times since over the years.
This one has the parts, instructions, and decals still sealed inside in their original bag. An examination of the parts bag reveals little to no flash at all and the molded parts are very sharp and crisp. I remember building the original kit in this same box from back then, 1965 or 66 when my big brother was in Viet Nam with 1st Air Cav.
 

Here is something I often do for attachment points that's small, strong, and easily created yourself. Find some scrap computer component wire or other similar wire of small/fine gauge. Strip the insulation off the wire to use the fine strands to twist into loops like these (seen in the white paint pallet):
 

Here is something I often do for attachment points that's small, strong, and easily created yourself. Find some scrap computer component wire or other similar wire of small/fine gauge. Strip the insulation off the wire to use the fine strands to twist into loops like these (seen in the white paint pallet):
 

Goodness, that's a lot of beautiful work represented in one model. It looks totally busy. Makes me appreciate the knowledge and skill the old sailors must have had to work and maintain a ship like that.

What a beautiful ship. She should hold a place of honor in your home as I am certain your visitors are going to love it as much as I do seeing it here.

Here is something I often do for attachment points that's small, strong, and easily created yourself. Find some scrap computer component wire or other similar wire of small/fine gauge. Strip the insulation off the wire to use the fine strands to twist into loops like these (seen in the white paint pallet):
 

I searched on line for everything I could find that might show the rigging. There were some rudimentary line drawings that helped, and there was the official Mikasa website that shows photos of the ship on display at it's permanent home in Japan. Between the two, I was able to establish a best guess. And yes, I used some of my own attachment points to tie off the rigging on the decks and various other locations. Mostly I used photo etch pieces that were salvaged from other sets not related to the Mikasa.
I highly recommend looking closely at the Seydlitz build thread found here: 
RGL did a masterful job of researching then rigging the torpedo net booms. Quite a complex rigging scheme. Pontos does include most of the attachment points for the net rigging, but no instruction on how to rig it. The booms, rigging and nets on the Seydlitz are very similar to those on Mikasa, If I ever get around to it, I will use RGL's example to rig my Mikasa.

no.....your right....I should have gone further down with the red.....I will correct that.   not with the stripper though.......it can't be used on plastic.  I'll give it a brake fluid bath and remove it all.   
 
some older kits.......they're really a grab bag.   some were really good,  some were done poorly.   I'm finding though,  clues as to which kits saw retooling, and which ones didn't.  the last couple I've done contained parts that weren't in the instructions,  and what should be found in pairs,  but only one is in it.   this kit {for instance} has a few weird aspects about it....even though it's a really nice kit.   it's pretty detailed in it's design........a horn that is not shown in the instructions {one can figure out a logical place for it},   a washer fluid jug,   the absence of windshield wipers,  even though there is a locator point for them,   outside door handles,  which was fairly common on older kits {some kits even supplied chrome molding}.   it also depends on the company too.  I've had some that put out a nasty kit......HobbyCraft comes to mind {a Canada based company}.  the kit looked really good,  but the fit was poor and the plastic was so thick and produced a heavy model.  I bought the Fokker Dr 1........could be painted in ten different schemes.
    if I remember right,  this was Richthofen's 1916 paint scheme


the model is quite heavy for a 1:48 scale model.......had a devil of a time to get the center wing and machine guns in place.   to compare it to a revell kit....big difference.  this one is as light as a feather


 
 
the body has been in the brake fluid for an hour or so.  the flat black is coming off very quickly.......it will take more time to get through the lacquer coat, although it's breaking up.   it might be totally stripped by the evening.  cripes......even the admiral is having fun with it       she's been pick'in at it too!

The Anatomy Of the Ship Dreadnought shows you how the British did theirs. 

I've noticed that these newer released car kits are packaged in the box far better than the old kits were. Individual parts trees in their own separate bags, and it also appears they may have retouched the tools as the parts look sharper and more flash-free than they were in the past.

Just a suggestion...If you strip this down and start painting again, try to move that red/white mask line down a smidgen to the prominent body line that sits just under the current color separation line. If you look at the box art, that's closer to where the red/white line sits. In the big scheme of things, it really doesn't matter either way I guess. It will look good in either position.

The hull halves in my kit were just a bit warped, so that when they were joined, there was a gap in the middle. it took some serious persuasion to get the halves to match and join in the middle. I first made sure each fore and aft ends were securely taped and glued, then pulled the middle together and applied glue, then tape, just a few inches at a time working from each end toward the middle. As each area glued had dried, moved more toward the center in similar fashion and repeated until it was all joined together. As it is, there are only two small areas that will require some very light filler to conceal a fine crack. For reinforcement and to add glue surface area, glued some styrene inside the hull at the joint.
Next, there are a lot of Pontos guns to build.
 
 

I've noticed that these newer released car kits are packaged in the box far better than the old kits were. Individual parts trees in their own separate bags, and it also appears they may have retouched the tools as the parts look sharper and more flash-free than they were in the past.

I've noticed that these newer released car kits are packaged in the box far better than the old kits were. Individual parts trees in their own separate bags, and it also appears they may have retouched the tools as the parts look sharper and more flash-free than they were in the past.

Just a suggestion...If you strip this down and start painting again, try to move that red/white mask line down a smidgen to the prominent body line that sits just under the current color separation line. If you look at the box art, that's closer to where the red/white line sits. In the big scheme of things, it really doesn't matter either way I guess. It will look good in either position.

I searched on line for everything I could find that might show the rigging. There were some rudimentary line drawings that helped, and there was the official Mikasa website that shows photos of the ship on display at it's permanent home in Japan. Between the two, I was able to establish a best guess. And yes, I used some of my own attachment points to tie off the rigging on the decks and various other locations. Mostly I used photo etch pieces that were salvaged from other sets not related to the Mikasa.
I highly recommend looking closely at the Seydlitz build thread found here: 
RGL did a masterful job of researching then rigging the torpedo net booms. Quite a complex rigging scheme. Pontos does include most of the attachment points for the net rigging, but no instruction on how to rig it. The booms, rigging and nets on the Seydlitz are very similar to those on Mikasa, If I ever get around to it, I will use RGL's example to rig my Mikasa.

Fantastic work!  I also am working on this same kit. How did you determine where and how to rig it?  The Pontos kit has no mention of that whatsoever.  Did you add your own parts?  I'm almost done!  Just down to the rigging.
Hope to hear from you.
 

hello all     just a brief update on the General.  yes.......the cab has been cemented in place...I just need to touch it up a little.   I did touch up the badge and cement it in place as well.   it's not a great picture.........but it looks good in person.

I also used up the last bit of soot on the stack.......before it dried up and blew away.   I need to make some more.

A  Waterline Configuration--
I used my Dremel to cut away the bottom of the hull. Care had to be taken to minimize melting the plastic. The picture looks really gross but it looks worse than it was. A number of cross braces were installed to minimize the hull flexing while sanding it. The hull was dressed and leveled.
The hull was used as a template for the making the boot line. A piece of 2mm black polystyrene by Evergreen, was rough cut using the template. This was glued to the bottom of the hull and shaped to provide permanent boot line.
Cell phone pictures
 

Sorry to hear about the paint woes. It will all work out.