JeffT

Been waiting for the amati version. Caldercrafts
is a good one though if you can't wait.

I am glad to hear you will slow down a bit. I cant see anyone being able to build the hull of 3/16” scale model of an English 5th rate frigate in just 3 months and have the parts all fit together properly and look decent.  Three months…that is indeed way too fast.

One thing I would recommend to all Sphinx builders is that you carefully sand and clean all the char off of the parts before you glue them on the model.  That will make a huge difference.  Even on the main deck which is laser etched with details.  There is so much laser residue being left on these parts.
 

 
If you would allow me to offer all the Sphinx builders a bit of advice.  
 
All of the laser char I am seeing left on many Sphinx build logs really detracts from the the models overall finished appearance.  Its not something that takes that long to do.  It seriously knocks the model down a few pegs when its not done.  This is true even if the parts are glued together with care.  
 

This is especially true with all all of the fancy hull moldings and fenders and knees.  The edges of the railings and coamings, and deck beams, etc.  Those fancy molding parts should be sanded and shaped with the top and bottom edges of the molding rounded off.  Otherwise it looks too flat and rather kit-like.  When you pay $800 to $900 on a kit these seem like rather easy steps to take to elevate the finished models appearance. It really doesnt take that long to do , nor is it very difficult.  Unless Im missing something,  why has this particular kit convinced folks to leave the laser char on all the parts when building the model.  I have looked at quite a few of these being built.  
 
When Chris assembles his prototypes without removing the char its for a reason….which is just to check that the parts fit.  No need for other Sphinx builders to follow suit as Chris made sure everything fits.  So go ahead and slow down and clean off all that char.  Even if you plan on painting those parts.  Its great surface prep.  I can even see the connectors where the parts were held in the laser cut sheets.  You shouldnt be able to see that on a finished model.  

I'm taking mine very slow. The bonus is I learn from everyone else.

I'm taking mine very slow. The bonus is I learn from everyone else.

A few issues have been solved with CAF Bellona. One of them (and not the least) is the Stern.
 
At the end of Session #1, the following is proposed: 
 

 
There is not enough material and information to really make it a success. My approach has been the following: 
 
Using Picture 22, I only glued D1 to D4 on each side. That was done after fairing the hull, to avoid breaking the delicate parts. 
The sandwich suggested in Picture 24 is not really necessary and as we will see only the two D-5-c parts are necessary. But this is left aside for now as D5 has not been glued to the transom. With only the Session #1 kit, you cannot and should not go any further.
 
I was so much in the dark that I asked for help to Tom. He provided me with these two CAD drawings that shed so much light on my problem: 
 

 

 
With Session #2, an interesting piece of information is revealed: 
 

 
Part #25 is key and will help you build the correct alignment for the left and right D5 parts as well as provide that crucial 152 mm width, which is essential when building all the magnificence of the stern. In the picture below, you can see how Part 25 is coming to save us: 
 

 
A little verification of the distance: Yes, it is very close.
 

 
At that stage, I glued the two shells "Q" on each side.
 

 
D5 parts are still floating and have not been secured to the transom. Once Q is properly glued and aligned with the rest of the hull, the parts D5 and D-5-C will be shaped to fit.
 

 
Above you can see D-5-A and D-5-B on the right and the two D-5-c parts glued together on the left. I did not need the parts on the right. D-5-C assembly is filed down to almost nothing to fill in the gap between the D5 futtock and the shell Q: as you can see below, there is still plenty to remove....
 

 
Finally, when the sandwich D-5-C have been reduced to a sliver, it can be glued to D5, which can be in turn glued to the transom, using the shell Q as a guide for proper alignment. The gluing is done with part 25 in place, to make sure that everything is perfectly lined up.
 
Finally, we come to that: 
 

 

 
Above, D1 (the center futtock) will be removed as I intend to make the rudder movable. D1 is in the way, and its only purpose is to make sure that you have a central reference. Once part 25 is glued, it will not be really necessary.
 

 
Yes, the Sacro-saint dimension of 152 mm is there: 
 

 
We finally come to a point where we are starting to have a decent stern:
 

 
I hope these explanations will be useful to some readers. This is definitely not a Vanguard Model with a documentation done by James H. We are trailblazing here.... Next, the stem....
 
Yves
 

Ok, Changed the Fascia position:

 
Now i will need to fill that hole, shouldnt be a problem tho:
 

You are a true artist Doris.

After a weeks long battle with card stock, tape, and myself, I've finally finished the 7th row. I recently discovered that planking a hull is a lot more challenging when precision is needed. I did a little preliminary sanding but not much. I don't want to take too much off since the planks are thin. I plan to just smooth out the edges and then hit it with some 800 and 100 grit to prepare for a few coats of poly. Only two more rows to go.
 

I would dare say it looks pretty darn good. Nice work.

I have the  Hms Diana partially  build, which I am unable to continue with. I have added photos of how far I have reached on the build. I stopped my build at the near end of coppering the Hull which I was unhappy with. Anyway I have added some photos which will show how things stand at the moment. Please message me if you are  interested.  I have it for sale for £250 and the buyer needs to collect  uk only.    Thank you DAVID
 

I've got a dilemma.  The outboard planking on Granado will be boxwood, and the 3 strakes of the wales will be ebony.  The question is, how do I handle the "black strake", directly above the wale.  The name suggests it should be ebony also, but the AOTS cover illustration clearly shows it to be ochre colored.  Modelers have gone both ways.  What do you all think?  Ebony or boxwood for the "black strake"?
 
 
 

HMS SPHINX Build Comments & Observations
 
Note:
This post is not specifically a “What’s In The Box” Kit Review. The photos and comments have been prepared by ship modeler, Ron Neilson, in lieu of a full Build Log.
 
A Quick Summary by one modeler:
 
Although I am only about halfway through my build of the latest Vanguard Models kit, HMS Sphinx, and while I have made some of my own modifications (as any builder does), the process thus far has been excellent, thanks to the high-quality of this kit.
Many precisely cut pieces of mostly MDF and decent quality Swiss Pear have been provided. As I was building up the basic and extensive hull forms, I constantly referenced my calipers to double-check the fitting of parts. At first, I couldn’t believe the precision of these elements. In many cases, I measured +/- .005 – which is quite extraordinary. The construction in some areas is “Lego-like,” that is, “plug ‘n’ play.” This aspect of the fundamental hull “skeleton” also helps maintain precision tolerances across the entire length and breadth of the 1/64 ( 3/16” = 1 foot) model. The kit’s provided building jigs - which you assemble separately - are also very useful.
As witness to the unique design innovations embodied in the kit, what is shown in these photos was completed in less than forty-five days. I’d estimate that in the recent past, a model of similar complexity and scale would have taken me nearly twice the time. Vanguard has created a stunningly high-quality kit that can be crafted by any journeyman ship modeler with a moderate level of perseverance.
 
Precise, laser cut pear wood is employed throughout the build. The delicate “rails” along the hull are provided as pre-cut patterns which is a very interesting approach to creating these necessary elements. All gunports (22 including the bridle ports) align nicely with the layered approach to building up the bulwarks to faithful thickness. A single piece gundeck is delicately and precision-etched to indicate the tapered planking, trunnels included. The deck furniture pieces are all in pear and because they are lasered from similar stock, all match, beautifully. Although slightly tricky to align properly, the design of the amidships chain pump handle mechanism is brilliant. The same applies to the über-detailed hand pumps. Both are P.E mini-masterpieces that will be fun to build.
 
There is nice detail on the ironwork components. The deck coamings, hatches, bitts and various support stanchions lend themselves to nice extra detailing. The quarter galleries are always a challenge to fabricate, but the design in this kit is the best I’ve encountered thus far in years of building this era of sailing ships. The detail of the tiered P/E roof tiling is especially nice.
The severe stern tuck was worth the effort, the built-up rudder and cleverly-designed ironwork for the gudgeons and pintles is evident on close inspection.
 
The headworks are exquisitely designed and detailed with a combination of precision laser-etched pear pieces. I was impressed once more at the close tolerances of all these items that fit together like a glove. The single-piece upper stern cabin resin cast decoration is very clever and a definite showpiece of the model.
 
The extensive, decorative elements of this model are what will draw many modelers to make the investment in both time and treasure to build it. The sweep of the ship’s lines is very appealing; I can imagine that in real life, this was a gorgeous ship to behold, indeed. The clever design engineering, the fastidious manufacturing, excellent materials and comprehensive guidance provided in this high-calorie kit (the build manual and extensive, full-size plans) is exemplary; cleverness and ingenuity abounds throughout.  Did I mention the large, full-color, clearly photographed, 144-page Build Manual accompanied by twenty-three (count ’em!) extensive, full-size, actual scale (1:64) large plans? It boggles the mind initially when one opens the heavy (insert weight in pounds- 15lbs?) and sturdy box of goodies. The manual and plans alone must weigh 3 pounds. What kit manufacturer does this? Vanguard Models does. And there will be countless builders who want, need and can afford the exemplary challenges this kit provides. Regarding money, this kit’s ultimate value is that it can potentially deliver a museum-quality model and thus, in my world, it’s a bargain at twice the price.
 
The HMS Sphinx kit stands as the current pinnacle of Vanguard Models’ superb and innovative work over the last many years by the U.K.’s dedicated and well-regarded ship model kit designer, Chris Watton.
———-
The photos aren't in a chronological sequence, only random shots I've taken during my build to the date of this post. There will be more commentary and photos to come as I make more progress with my fun build. And why spend many solitary hours at this challenging hobby if it isn’t fun?

Yes it is 🙂

So.... this is what happens when you're not paying attention and you knock a little can of wood filler off the shelf onto the deck.  Doh.
 

 
    The little repair did give me the opportunity to smooth out the deck a little more and give it a good couple more runs with some 400 & 600 grit. 
 
 
 

 
 
    After that bit of a distraction, I moved on the bow of the ship.  one of the things I wasn't thrilled about was the extra 'meat' at the front. I realize a couple things here of course - A - it provides extra support for the upper deck and B - there won't be much to see. None-the-less, I wanted a little more accurate representation of the bowsprit.  Also, I figured it would help me out when it's time to mount the pesky gunport patterns. So, I shaved off the extra materials, put together new bitts to extend the bowsprit.  I'll add a couple more details later (probably manger boards, etc).
 
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
    I test fit the upper deck here just to see how it'd look.
      
 

It is a good feeling when you finish the planking.  Almost there.

So first of all thanks for the likes.
 
Hello and have a nice Sunday evening.  I haven't been able to build too much on Le Coureur in the last week.  Now it was time to construct the partition wall with the doors, but I had to find out that everything didn't fit somehow.  The wall and the doors were about 2-3mm too high so I started to reduce the size of the floor and grind down the bulkhead of the ammunition chamber that brought about 1mm.  Next I put in the beam and the walls on the left and right.  Then I built a door frame because I really wanted movable doors.  I was able to implement everything and I am happy that everything worked out.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Oh yeah, the stove and the dresser were the smaller projects this week.

Fcastle planking is completed.  I also added the mast coat as you can see in the photo.  This is also the same as the earlier ones we built.  The open areas of the decking reveal plenty of the gun deck.  Just remember,  you can add more deck planks if you prefer.  You can also plank one side completely and leave the other side just showing the deck beams and knees.  Its up to you.
 
Now its onto either the belfry rail or jump over and start working on the qdeck coamings.  I havent decided yet.   There is also a large knee at the bow to make.
 
Chuck
 

 

At this stage, I envisage it being new year before any further work can start. That's fine with me as it gives me a small break after my Vanguard Models stuff, before I dive back into this. I was looking through my files tonight and found 3 pics that Chris did of the original prototype. I'm not sure if these have been seen before, so I'll add them to my log so you can see what to expect as this progresses.
 

Thank you Glenn (UK), and Glenn (USA), and thanks for looking in Malcolm.
 
@ Glenn (USA) - this is a kit to savour, like a fine old vintage wine, so much scope to play with it.
Altho' I'm working on it most days, all being well, I fully expect to be still going this time next year. 
 
In a funny sort of way, Chris's design with so many pre-formed parts almost encourages a clik and fit quick build mentality, a fairly finished look can be achieved in a short time.
It's not that easy, there's a lot more to the kit than that.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Thanks Guys for your support.
 
Post Twenty-eight
 
Attending to inboard works
With the major dust fest completed, it’s time for a GTU before I get down to applying some paint to the inner bulwarks.

0837
This is about as good as it gets during a build.

0838
Trial fit of the Topsides planking, careful attention to alignment with the ports is the prime concern here.

0857(2)
I am quite impressed with these pre formed topside planking strips, they look good and certainly  save all that planking between the ports.
Fitting them will have wait until I have planked the deck.
 
Painting the inner bulwarks
I have decided to use Vallejo Flat Red, applied by brush, but before I begin I need to consider the inner surfaces of the gun ports.
They have an mdf core sandwiched between thin layers of Pearwood.
 
I am thinking that the ports should be lined even tho’ they have no lids, except in relation to the stern area and Bridle ports. They were lined on Pegasus, and the painting of Sphinx does appear to represent them.
I do like the look of port Stops and I am tempted to add them using 0.6mm Boxwood.
 
Strictly speaking the internal quickworks and spirketting should cover the linings, too late for that now, but as it is all to be painted that aspect will not be obvious.
 
This is mainly viewed as an external feature.

0841
This is a mock-up of a lined port using 0.6mm Boxwood. This thickness equates to 1½” which is about right for the stops.
Lining the ports is a tricky business, particularly the side pieces which must be angled to fit the port; and there are 44 of the beggars to make.

0848
I don’t want to mess with the outer planking patterns so I need to ensure that they meet the edges of the framing exactly, if I’m going to proceed.
 
On the subject of ports I was a little surprised, and somewhat relieved, that sweep ports are not represented on the model, unless of course they had been laser cut by Chris.
 
Pegasus had them, and they are shown on the Admiralty plans; they are not included on the plans for Sphinx. Neither are they depicted on the Marshall painting. The Marshall paintings do show them on the 6th rate Kingfisher, but not the Frigate Enterprize.

0866(2)
I’ll faff around with this awhile, to assess any potential issues, but I have given the inner bulwarks a very light sanding and the application of diluted wop as a base preparation for the paint.
 
B.E.
23/10/21
 

It took me 4 weeks to stop procrastrinating and finally finish the 2nd planking:


 
Now onto the next steps:
 
1. add filler in big holes
2. paint all with diluted PVA 
3. Mask off lasered areas
4. Saaaaand
 
 

Next batch shipping at the end of next week or beginning of week after, after receiving photo etch delivery confirmation.
 
I put in and paid for (a lot of money) a 'Repeat Order' of Sphinx photo etch sets in August. Due to miscommunication within the Italian PE company, what they sent was one of the 5 sets required, making this my month of hell. Problems now resolved, so all back to normal at the end of next week.

With apologies to @chris watton for how I have managed to turn his beautiful design of the quarter galleries and stern fascia section of the Sphinx in to a right dogs dinner. I would also like to apologise to @James H for not been being able to execute his very informative build manual instructions with the top quality pictures.  Also sorry to @glbarlow for not correcting the mistakes in my prototype build. I think the pictures attached to this post make a nice horror show precursor to Halloween. 🤣.
 
When I have received the new Sphinx kit I promise to make a much better job😀
Any news on the expected release date Chris for the next batch?
 
With regards to the stern fascia area I have fitted all the rails, the resin moulding and all the PE parts. With all the parts fitted it really does highlight just how badly misaligned my build is in this area. I cannot stress enough just how important it is to ensure the two counter patterns and stern fascia patterns are correctly positioned as instructed. Take a look at Blue Ensign's build log in this respect which is a great method to follow.
 
When painting the resin casting I used the same gold paint as James, diluted with a couple of drops of isotropic alcohol and a very fine paint brush. As soon as I put the paint on the resin it flowed beautifully over the raised resin sections and was looking very good until I noticed the paint had continued to flow and spread on to the flat blue surface. In future I will let the paint start to set before painting so it not quite so runny when it being applied.
 
Here is a couple of pictures of how the stern fascia looks on my build. The misaligned parts are very clear to see. It is not a pretty sight and I am deeply embarrassed with how it looks.
 

 

 
As can been seen on the next photo the quarter gallery is also a bit of a mess, noting I have not fitted the PE parts yet. As you will no doubt note the quarter gallery rails do not align with the stern fascial rails as they should. Another example of my shoddy workmanship.
 

Coamings are completed on the fcastle with gratings.  There is one that is for the stack which will have some cover boards.   Note that this coaming sits against the one aft of it.  So the aft edge doesnt have the corners rounded off.   Rather than repeat the coaming making process I will just say ...dont forget to use your 3/64" thick right angle jig when making them.  Also use that to round off the corners leaving a sharp edge corner where the planking will done around it.   This is the exact same thing we did with the gun deck coamings.
 
With these completed I can start planking the center strip down the fcastle.  I will take some pictures of that process because we need to also glue the bitts onto the model we made in the previous chapter.  The ones fore and aft of the foremast.   
 
More progress shortly but does this make sense....do you guys need any clarification as I there really is nothing different with these coamings than all the others....a 5/64 x 1/32" strip was inserted inside the coaming so we can sit the gratings and cover boards into them.   Everything is laser cut.  The gratings are made the same way as well.