mikeaidanh

I read through the Aubrey-Maturin saga twice separated by about ten years.  The fact that I read through them twice probably says something about my love of these books.  I would not place them in the annals of great literature - seafaring or otherwise.  For that I suggest, in the seafaring genre, Melville or Conrad.  The books do have their place, and I believe they fill it admirably.  There are stumbling blocks, I am sure, for some.  The swashbuckling action scenes are there, but are skipped over or take a second place to the relationship between the two men and the stresses on each of them.  This quirky relationship between captain and surgeon is sometimes hard to comprehend, but I am sure there were many oddities in the connections formed by men who chose this way of life.  If you doubt that, read some of Nelson's letters to and about his colleagues.
 
I found the real value in these books to be the wonderful depth of information about the ordinary daily functioning of one of these vessels,  the Navy and the political establishment they were a part of.  While the affection between Aubrey and his crews sometimes stretched credibility, descriptions of daily life and routine are unique and priceless.  I do not know of another source as descriptive of daily shipboard routine.  I believe the inclusion all of this background to be the best part of these books - a personal opinion to be sure.  
 
Ed

Thanks for all your input on the HMS surprise kit. I'm glad I asked. I will never deal with disreputable companies' that pirate. I feel like a knuckle head for not knowing about these practices. Thanks for the warning and I've noted the list of companies to look out for. Glad I trusted my instincts.

Hello all,
 
In this thread I would like to inform you about new products, tutorials, specials and all other news from my firm.
First I would like to introduce me and my firm. Our first kit in the market was Greek Bireme which starts in 2007 year. Gradually we added other kits into the production range (2-3 new kits every year). All the kits are designed and tested by me-Daniel Dusek. I design all of my kits in 3D CAD (Turbocad) for as much as possible accuracy. Then we use laser cutting for production of the kits. You can see all of them on our webpage:
http://www.dusekshipkits.com/
 
Important year of the firm is this year when we moved into new bigger space and one week back we also launched the new website where the kits are presented. Video tutorials as service for customers will be presentedIn the new website. First video-tutorial is tutorial how to make the oars. Next video-tutorial will be series of building Viking Gokstad in 1/72 scale (first part will be ready during one or two weeks). It is possible to see the tutorials directly on our website:
http://www.dusekshipkits.com/tutorials
or on our YouTube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCemXvlCnLIKycPSZOuYgEVw
 
We have also Facebook page where you can follow us:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dusek-Ship-Kits/1507139286209860
 
I would like to invite customers for sending of photos of their models build from our kits. I will be pleased to show them in our photo gallery:
http://www.dusekshipkits.com/work-of-our-customers
 
Finally I would like to write also something about the kits and classify them after different criterions:
1) Planking method:
All the ship kits are designed as plank on frame kits, some as single planking and some as double planking.
a ) Single planking models: San Martin, Golden Hind, Hanse Kogge, Greek Bireme, Greek Trireme, Nina, Pinta, Santa Maria and all of the Viking ships.
b ) Double planking models: La Belle Poule, La Real, Le Cerf, Maria HF31
 
2) Difficulty of the building:
a ) Beginner level kits: Greek Bireme, all Viking ships
b ) Advanced beginner kits: Hanse Kogge, Greek Trireme, Nina, Pinta
c ) Intermediate level kits: Le Cerf, Maria HF31, Santa Maria, Golden Hind
d ) Expert level kits: San Martin, La Real, La Belle Poule
 
3) Construction of the kits:
Some kits are designed as full laser cut kits (where almost all wooden parts are cut by laser including planks for hull planking) or more traditional kits where some parts are cut by laser and some are made from wooden strips (hull planking).
a ) Full laser cut kits: La Belle Poule, Maria HF31, Hanse Kogge, all Viking ships
b ) Traditional construction: La Real, Le Cerf, San Martin, Golden Hind, Greek Bireme, Greek Trireme, Nina, Pinta, Santa Maria
 
You can contact me with any questions, ideas or comments.
Best regards
Daniel Dusek

These books are not easy reads. O'Brian likes to toss out French and Latin phrases, and make the reader look them up. But he is a concise writer, and he packs a lot into a minimum of words. He repeats nothing, so if you miss the significance of an event, however minor, early on, then you might be confused  later. He has a different style of writing too, with phrases that just seem to flow. You have to hear the late Patrick Tull's book narrations (Recorded Books, inc.) to truly feel it. O'Brian has often been called "The Jane Austin for guys". His Napoleonic Period histories, his nautical descriptions, his naval intelligence methodologies, and his medical and "natural philosopher" descriptions are spot on.  His characters are the best of any other seafaring genre. The Hornblower sailors just seems wooden compared to them.
 
Not an easy read, the Aubrey-Maturin Series, but well worth the time.

Hi
I'm a bit surprised by the very positive comments on my painting work on my Fly model. It is a quite easy process from my point of view so I thought I'd share my technique. Forgive me to all of you who know this already or do it better. My painting technique dates back to house painting in my student years, the principles are the same.
 
Brushes:
- Do not scrimp by buying cheap brushes. Get the best quality, sable hair, that you can afford.
- For painting a large area of your model use a square headed brush about 3 mm - 4mm wide with a tapered head and medium stiffness. Same as house painting but at a much smaller scale.
- Look after your brushes. Clean them in lacquer thinners, turpentine or water according to the paint you use. Do not let them soak in any of these solutions. After the first clean wash them in hot water and concentrated dish wishing liquid. The idea is to get rid of any paint residue in the brush and especially in its barrel. Always clean straight after you finished the area painted. Good brushes treated well will last for years.
- For clear finishes I use a larger, soft, round or oval head brush - these give a softer application and allow quicker application than a square head. I find clear finishes work best if they go on quickly. I use Testors Dullcote but that is just my choice.
 
Application
- Several or many thin coats are better than a few thick coats. If the wood behind is showing behind your first coat you are on the right track.
- Do not overload the brush with paint. I take the paint from the pot or bottle and lay it with the brush on to a piece of fresh paper. I then brush out the loaded brush on the paper until it is only lightly loaded with paint.
- Work in one direction from one end to the other of the ship - aft to stern or the other way round. Never start in the middle and then head aft followed by forward.
- Never go back to a perceived mistake behind you in a single application. The paint will have tacked and, especially with enamels, you will get pulling which will turn a minor mistake into a major mess. You can fix that perceived mistake on the next coat.
- Always allow the paint to fully dry. Enamels need at least six hours. Partly dried paint if processed will make a major mess. When you sand the paint should turn to dust. If it rolls into little slivers it isn't dry.
- After each coat lightly sand with 1200 grit paper. If this takes the paint back to wood it doesn't matter there is another coat to come.
 
Finish
- After your last coat of paint, leave it to fully dry and the rub it down with tissue paper. This will even out any brush strokes and colour differences.
- Apply a lacquer (or your favourite clear finish). I use Testors Dullcote. When dry, Testors can again be rubbed back with tissue paper to a dull sheen. I also do a second coat of clear and rub it back again. If you have any shiny spots 1200 grit plus a further tissue rub will get rid of them.
 
The above only applies to easily accessed surfaces. Strakes, fenders and other things in the way will make the rub off impossible. My theory is to get the base painting about right before those bits are added. I could be proved wrong...
 
Here is a picture of the upper works paint plus the wales paint. the upper works are a Humbrol enamel, the wale a Polly Scale acrylic. A little bit of grain shows through which suits me. This is more paint grain than wood grain. A too perfect finish would make the model too plastic looking (I'm not meaning to deride plastic models).
 
If any of you have better ideas I'd be keen to hear them - this works for me.
 
Cheers
Alistair

Back for more. This time it is the gun deck planking.
 
Before the planking can be fitted a hatchway and grating must be made.
 

 

 
The next image shows my jig for laying out the planking, working out the butt shift and trenailing.
 

 
As this deck will eventually be almost completely covered by cannon and various other fixtures and fittings I am not going to caulk and trenail properly but simply fake these features. The caulking will be black pencil edging and the trenails indentations in the planking made with the Patent Trenail Marker as per the other build that I mentioned in the intro to this one. I have, I think, improved on the original concept of the PTM by the addition of my impact centre punch!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now the planking is laid out on the jig, the butt shift joints are all marked up and the trenails have been punched in.
 

 
Laying planking commences....
 

 
....and completes with the fitting of the hatch.
 

 

 
Back later.
 
Mike
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Mike,
 
Using Holly (Ilex) a a search Ebay came up with Holly blocks.
 
Mikeaidanh.

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Ahoy Mates
 
Anyone who follows my builds knows I like treenails. This whole argument about scale amuses me. Really how many rigging components are anywhere near scale; but we all seem to enjoy adding them. Build something you enjoy looking at, not something that is going in a museum as a scale replica, or to meet the expectations of others. Having a treenail out of scale or slightly more visible would not even make the list of mistakes on most builds. Nor would it rate when compared to the mistakes the manufacturer has already built into most kits.  Many scratch builder use treenails so we won't even go there 
 
One additional note about treenails: They will strengthen your kit considerably and prevent planks from springing years down the road, which for me makes them worth the effort . Not to mention they can look really good and represent that actual construction method used. 
 
Brought to you by the committee to stop treenail abuse 

For UK readers,
 
The thin rip guide featured in this thread is available in the UK from Axminster Tools who list it as the Axminster thin rip guide! It sells for £21.96
 
Mike.

For UK readers,
 
The thin rip guide featured in this thread is available in the UK from Axminster Tools who list it as the Axminster thin rip guide! It sells for £21.96
 
Mike.

Bill,
I like the idea of the Thin Rip Jig but am using the Byrnes saw which has 1/2" wide by 1/8" deep slots. Based on your jig, is the slide easily changeable?
 
Richard

The largest difference this jig has over push sticks and feather boards is the ability to control both sides of the wood through the entire path of the cut. This ensures there is no kickback since the wood does not veer side to side during the cut. It does not allow for cuts smaller than 1/8th but as Mike said, that does leave lots of cuts it does work for. The interior of the jig is movable so it can be adjusted for the various size cuts.
 
It still can be used to cut smaller thicknesses if you have the cutoff to the left of the blade. The jig would just not straddle the blade and only be used on the part to the right. This still leave you more in control than just pushing the wood through from the end. 
 
I know others have used feather boards for this, but there is a guide for ripping thin sections for the table saw. It rides in the miter slot to the left of the blade. It has a wheel in the end to allow the wood to easily slip past. You set the width of the cut you want ( to the left of the blade) then slid the wood between the fence and the wheel. Make the cut and shift the fence to the left until the wood contacts the wheel again and make the second cut, snd so on.  This allows for consistent thickness cuts to the left of the blade. 
 
Anyway, both of these jigs/guides make my life easier and a bit safer. As Mike said, I don't have any interest in these companies other than I use their products. If you are interested both of these are available for a number of different sources on line.

You are the second person to ask me that....
 
The problem is that it would only be an estimate.  I wont know for sure until I actually build it.  I usually keep track of what I use and then add just a bit more to make the materials list.
 
So far I only have one 48" x 48" sheet of ply that is 1/4" thick and one 3" wide sheet of boxwood or whatever you prefer to use for teh keel and stem and rudder.  It should be 7/32" thick.
 
Other than that I haveent got a clue.  I would be afraid that after examining the plans carefully I might forget something....so keeping track as I work is usually foolproof.  But maybe I will give it a try this weekend.  But like I said...I may overlook something.  It will be real close though.
 
Thanks for the interest in the project.  If all goes according to plan the 3 sheets will be released around the new year but February at the latest.   I basically just want to plank it outboard to prove the hull design.    I also want to write the first few chapters so folks will have a guide.
 
Chuck

Hi Antony,
 
Not exactly sure how long. I started about three months back but I have only worked on it for maybe four or five weeks.
I have to admit that I get so involved that time becomes irrelevant but my Admiral just doesn't get it. Yet another reason to buy her a really good Christmas present!
 
I am very interested in your cutter and particularly as you are clinker building her. I shall watch your progress very closely.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mike.

Back again for the final post of this part of the build.
 
These are the parts for my upper deck bitts. They will be assembled and fitted later.
 

 
The gunport lids have been fitted with their hinges and fixed to the ships side and have had the tackles for opening and closing added....
 

 
....and the tackles have been rigged.
 

 
Prompted by the other build that I mentioned in my intro I have added a boarding ladder and manrope.
A piece of timber was shaped, cut to length and shaped some more then fixed to the ships side.
 

 

 
Next the hammock netting frame and netting are attached...
 

 

 

 
...the hammocks will be made and added later.
 
Finally with the bitts in place and populated with some simulated rope and lines the main structure is complete.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This build neatly divides into three areas. The first, just completed, is the main structure. The second is the the modification and construction of the two great guns and making and fitting their tackles. The third is the making of all the below decks paraphernalia and the final fitting out. This last area is full of scope for imaginative thinking but it is also likely to be the most fiddly and time consuming.
 
There will now be a short intermission.....or it could be a long one for I am off the to the Ordnance yard.
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sorry about the break in transmission. Some clot at my front door trying to sell me building enhancements 
despite the notice telling him that I neither buy nor sell from the doorstep. He has gone now and will, no doubt, be digesting the advice that I gave him.
 
Where were we? 
 
The last image in my previous post showed the rear frame uprights removed and the start of stanchion fitting.
The stanchions are pinned top and bottom though the bottom ones are not seen.
 

 
Stanchions completed. Note that I have omitted the centre outboard stanchion in order to make room for some extra internal fittings that I have in mind for later.
 

 

 
Knees. I did not like the kit knees very much so I cut some new ones. As I did not have any suitable dark wood available these have been stained ( despite my earlier reply to Jan! ) I will gloss varnish these later to distinguish them!
 

 

 
Knees fitted. 
 

 

 
Gunport lids. These were cut to shape on the Byrnes saw using the tilting table. Oh, how easy!
 

 

 
The lids will be fitted later.
 
At this point I decided to stray from the plans again and add a ladder between the decks as this seemed to link the two levels of the model in a natural way.
 

 

 
The ladder fitted with its hatch combing. Later on I will decide how to finish this off .....grating in situ, set aside or none at all. 
 

 
Next the top deck planking. This caulked with black card and properly trenailed.
 

 
The completed top decking with a "finishing strip" added.
 

 
This image shows the butt shift and caulking before trenailing and sanding.....
 

 
....and this is a general top view after trenailing.
 

 

 
And finally the "finishing strip" at the rear of the deck.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back for more. This time it is the gun deck planking.
 
Before the planking can be fitted a hatchway and grating must be made.
 

 

 
The next image shows my jig for laying out the planking, working out the butt shift and trenailing.
 

 
As this deck will eventually be almost completely covered by cannon and various other fixtures and fittings I am not going to caulk and trenail properly but simply fake these features. The caulking will be black pencil edging and the trenails indentations in the planking made with the Patent Trenail Marker as per the other build that I mentioned in the intro to this one. I have, I think, improved on the original concept of the PTM by the addition of my impact centre punch!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now the planking is laid out on the jig, the butt shift joints are all marked up and the trenails have been punched in.
 

 
Laying planking commences....
 

 
....and completes with the fitting of the hatch.
 

 

 
Back later.
 
Mike
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the interest Shihawk and Bart.
 
Bart, the kit is usually available in the UK and is currently on Cornwall Model Boats books for £130.00
 
I also put a quick search in and found at least one USA outlet offering it for $ 190.
 
Hope this might help.
 
Mike.
 
Ps. In the USA it is called Panart Battle Station.

Back again for the final post of this part of the build.
 
These are the parts for my upper deck bitts. They will be assembled and fitted later.
 

 
The gunport lids have been fitted with their hinges and fixed to the ships side and have had the tackles for opening and closing added....
 

 
....and the tackles have been rigged.
 

 
Prompted by the other build that I mentioned in my intro I have added a boarding ladder and manrope.
A piece of timber was shaped, cut to length and shaped some more then fixed to the ships side.
 

 

 
Next the hammock netting frame and netting are attached...
 

 

 

 
...the hammocks will be made and added later.
 
Finally with the bitts in place and populated with some simulated rope and lines the main structure is complete.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This build neatly divides into three areas. The first, just completed, is the main structure. The second is the the modification and construction of the two great guns and making and fitting their tackles. The third is the making of all the below decks paraphernalia and the final fitting out. This last area is full of scope for imaginative thinking but it is also likely to be the most fiddly and time consuming.
 
There will now be a short intermission.....or it could be a long one for I am off the to the Ordnance yard.
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sorry about the break in transmission. Some clot at my front door trying to sell me building enhancements 
despite the notice telling him that I neither buy nor sell from the doorstep. He has gone now and will, no doubt, be digesting the advice that I gave him.
 
Where were we? 
 
The last image in my previous post showed the rear frame uprights removed and the start of stanchion fitting.
The stanchions are pinned top and bottom though the bottom ones are not seen.
 

 
Stanchions completed. Note that I have omitted the centre outboard stanchion in order to make room for some extra internal fittings that I have in mind for later.
 

 

 
Knees. I did not like the kit knees very much so I cut some new ones. As I did not have any suitable dark wood available these have been stained ( despite my earlier reply to Jan! ) I will gloss varnish these later to distinguish them!
 

 

 
Knees fitted. 
 

 

 
Gunport lids. These were cut to shape on the Byrnes saw using the tilting table. Oh, how easy!
 

 

 
The lids will be fitted later.
 
At this point I decided to stray from the plans again and add a ladder between the decks as this seemed to link the two levels of the model in a natural way.
 

 

 
The ladder fitted with its hatch combing. Later on I will decide how to finish this off .....grating in situ, set aside or none at all. 
 

 
Next the top deck planking. This caulked with black card and properly trenailed.
 

 
The completed top decking with a "finishing strip" added.
 

 
This image shows the butt shift and caulking before trenailing and sanding.....
 

 
....and this is a general top view after trenailing.
 

 

 
And finally the "finishing strip" at the rear of the deck.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back again for the final post of this part of the build.
 
These are the parts for my upper deck bitts. They will be assembled and fitted later.
 

 
The gunport lids have been fitted with their hinges and fixed to the ships side and have had the tackles for opening and closing added....
 

 
....and the tackles have been rigged.
 

 
Prompted by the other build that I mentioned in my intro I have added a boarding ladder and manrope.
A piece of timber was shaped, cut to length and shaped some more then fixed to the ships side.
 

 

 
Next the hammock netting frame and netting are attached...
 

 

 

 
...the hammocks will be made and added later.
 
Finally with the bitts in place and populated with some simulated rope and lines the main structure is complete.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This build neatly divides into three areas. The first, just completed, is the main structure. The second is the the modification and construction of the two great guns and making and fitting their tackles. The third is the making of all the below decks paraphernalia and the final fitting out. This last area is full of scope for imaginative thinking but it is also likely to be the most fiddly and time consuming.
 
There will now be a short intermission.....or it could be a long one for I am off the to the Ordnance yard.
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back for more. This time it is the gun deck planking.
 
Before the planking can be fitted a hatchway and grating must be made.
 

 

 
The next image shows my jig for laying out the planking, working out the butt shift and trenailing.
 

 
As this deck will eventually be almost completely covered by cannon and various other fixtures and fittings I am not going to caulk and trenail properly but simply fake these features. The caulking will be black pencil edging and the trenails indentations in the planking made with the Patent Trenail Marker as per the other build that I mentioned in the intro to this one. I have, I think, improved on the original concept of the PTM by the addition of my impact centre punch!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now the planking is laid out on the jig, the butt shift joints are all marked up and the trenails have been punched in.
 

 
Laying planking commences....
 

 
....and completes with the fitting of the hatch.
 

 

 
Back later.
 
Mike
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back again.
 
The following photos show the curved rib sections and my spacers used to position them. as the spacers cannot be seen after planking they were glued in place. The ribs were found to be a tad short and have been corrected.
The gunnel cap can also be seen here. 
 

 

 

 

 
Making the Whale. Showing scarffe joint and black card caulking .
 

 

 
Fitting the first plank and adding the whale.
 

 
The whale has been treated with ebonising stain but I find it unconvincing. I will see what it looks like later and think again.
 
A drilling template for the trenails.....
 

 
....makes the job straightforward.....
 

 
....and soon completed.
 

 

 
The whale having another coat of stain but I am still not happy. Maybe polishing will improve it. The large trenails in the whale are a mess and will be replaced.
 
Polish applied to see how it looks. Ok, but the whale is still not right.
 

 

 
Back soon.
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Mark,
 
I will try adding that idea as well. The Drum Sanding Committee may defy all logic and design the perfect system......or maybe not!
 
Mike.