mikeaidanh
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mikeaidanh reacted to michael mott in A clamp for holding rope for splicing
part 2
The tails are now snipped off.
Then the eye is unclamped.
Next a thimble is inserted.
I am pleased with the overall look of this one, Now all I have to do is more of the same.
The clamp now that the modification are started, showing the extended collet end, and the refined clamp end. Like any tool it will take a while to get comfortable with its operation.
Michael
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mikeaidanh reacted to Chuck in Curious about Amati ropewalk
Dont be so quick to say its crap....I basically use it to produce all of my rope for Syren Ship Model company. With a modification or two....you can lay up a 21 foot length of rope in about 8 minutes. I have demonstrated this at my local club. I make approximately 5-6000 feet of rope on that so-called piece of crap every month. You can buy them for 20 bucks and when it gets used up...throw it away and get another. The average builder will never need to make 70,000 feet of rope per year so it will last a lifetime. In my case...I used one for three years....so I recommend them highly. I use a variable speed drill to power each end. The principle of making rope is very simple...I subscribe to the KISS philosophy. Why over complicate things. It does the job nicely. But if you want to spend a lot more.....on ...other machines...thats OK too. I just decided yesterday to retire my current ropewalk and built another in 30 minutes. I am good to go for another 100,000 feet of rope at least. The one I use is the Model shipways version but they are identical in every respect. The exact same design and parts.
I think my rope is the best on the market today so if its any indication.....
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mikeaidanh reacted to dgbot in Airbrushing for Beginners.
I found a good You Tube Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5nRNcNM16g
It is pretty good.
David B
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mikeaidanh reacted to grsjax in Wood hardness chart
Found this chart of Janka hardness on the net. Some that are not on it are basswood 410, poplar (tulip wood) 540, American sycamore 770, European sycamore 1,050 and Boxwood 2,840.
chart_janka.pdf
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from maddog33 in Lancia Armata 1803by mikeaidanh - FINISHED - Panart - Scale 1:16 - Small - Armed Pinnace
Back to the build log.
The skids are fitted to the lower hull and, somewhere out of site, the wales a some trim strips are being painted.
It is now time to paint the outer hull. Firstly masking off......
.......in preparation to using this.
Various stages of painting.......
...first the primer then the top coats.
Initial hull paint job completed.
The figure in the last image is a bit tall for the period at c6ft 4ins but he is useful for assessing the position of items that would have been handled by the crew.
After spray painting I found the finish to be too even and smooth so a further coat was applied all over by brush. The hull will be further "weathered" later on.
The next round of jobs should see all the remaining exterior hull fittings in place before hanging the rudder and moving on to masting and internal rigging.
More anon.
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from Dan Vadas in Table Saw Hand Safety
I agree with all that has been said here but may I add a further thought?
Good machinery usually has good guards but they sometimes get in the way. Bad guards can be as hazardous as no guard at all. With this in mind designing and building jigs for specific tasks on saw tables, band saws and router/shaper tables can be employed to very good and safe effect. The one golden rule is this.....part of your jig should always be between the blade and your fingers.
Mike.
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from egkb in Lancia Armata 1803by mikeaidanh - FINISHED - Panart - Scale 1:16 - Small - Armed Pinnace
Thank you Eamonn,
As I am fast approaching the painting of the external hull there may be a short pause before my next post but post i will as soon as I can.
Mike.
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from maddog33 in Lancia Armata 1803by mikeaidanh - FINISHED - Panart - Scale 1:16 - Small - Armed Pinnace
Getting on with the internal decks.
This is enjoyable work. Filling the floor voids with planking and the gratings. I found cutting and fitting the gratings to be tricky.
Using useful sizes of the kit supplied timber to jig up the fitting of the foot treads.
The internal decks finished and lightly oiled with Danish.
Moving on.
Planking in the bow and stern areas.
This is as far as I have come to date. The next tasks will be to finally fit the internal decks into the hull before starting on the ribs and stringers.
More anon.
Mike.
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from maddog33 in Lancia Armata 1803by mikeaidanh - FINISHED - Panart - Scale 1:16 - Small - Armed Pinnace
......And more progress.
Both internal decks framed and shown in situ for a trial fit.
Partly planked deck void. Slapped some yellow ochre on before applying a decent top coat.
Bought myself a cheap and simple air brush. How quickly the paint goes on! This sounds like I do not have a painters patience. Correct!
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from Canute in Lancia Armata 1803by mikeaidanh - FINISHED - Panart - Scale 1:16 - Small - Armed Pinnace
Further progress.
Starting on the internal decking.Bending frames for the edges of this section. I am using the deck itself as the former for the frame bending.
The larger of the two internal decks framed up and ready for planking and some gratings.
Detour. Planked the stern but not to the top as some shaping needs to be applied to this later on.
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from maddog33 in Lancia Armata 1803by mikeaidanh - FINISHED - Panart - Scale 1:16 - Small - Armed Pinnace
Progress report.
First planking completed - pretty rough but I have two more layers to go to improve my technique.
Second planking complete. A little better but still full of errors some of which have been sanded out. Thank goodness for sanding products!
The hull structure is now strong enough to let me remove the 2/3 of some of the bulkheads which are no longer needed. I am pleased to get shot of them as this allows me to do some remedial work on the visible interior planking.
Third and final planking. Fitting a drop plank to put right one of my technical errors.
Third planking complete and in the sanding phase.Overall I am reasonably happy with this my second attempt to plank a model
ship but, one of these days, I must learn to do it properly. I would love to watch a "master" at work.....are there any videos ?
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from maddog33 in Lancia Armata 1803by mikeaidanh - FINISHED - Panart - Scale 1:16 - Small - Armed Pinnace
At last I have made some progress on this model. As I said earlier my intention was to use this build as a break from my HMS Surprise build and to try my hand at a larger scale model. What has in fact happened is the realisation that I do not have enough time to devote to one model let alone two! Never the less progress has been made on both models.
The following is a simple photo diary of 1803 Armed Pinnace to date.
This is as far as I have gone and the model is back on the shelf as I return to my HMS Surprise (see).
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from maddog33 in Lancia Armata 1803by mikeaidanh - FINISHED - Panart - Scale 1:16 - Small - Armed Pinnace
I am about to start this build in an attempt to de emphasise the amount of work, and in particular repetitive work, that lies ahead for me in building my HMS Surprise.
In the very early stages I am told to apply candle wax to former edges to prevent adhesion whilst laying the planking. This is necessary as the formers must be removed and modified afterwards and the new sections replaced and glued in. Two questions: Is candle wax the best medium for this work and do i need to edge glue the planks? The model is triple planked in, firstly, 1mm x 7mm Walnut then 1mm x 6mm Lime wood and, lastly, 1mm x 6mm Walnut.
Once I have some work to show off I will post photographs and comments.
If anyone has a build log for this model I would love to see it.
In advance....my thanks for any comments or suggestions.
Mike.
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mikeaidanh reacted to jthemanjack in Lancia Armata 1803by mikeaidanh - FINISHED - Panart - Scale 1:16 - Small - Armed Pinnace
Looking great Mike..... she was my favourite and most enjoyable build ,after i finish my current build i am going to revisit the build and fit the bowsprit and jib ,i am also going to colour the sails red ,i hope you don't mind me posting an image in your log but something like this ! (if you do mind simply send me a pm and i will remove it)
Cheers
Jack
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mikeaidanh reacted to pompey2 in Drill Bits
Antony
Could you be encouraged to name the company, we would then be advised to avoid them.
Especially us UK bods.
Nick
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mikeaidanh reacted to tkay11 in TBS-Aachen for Proxxon tools in UK and greater Europe.
They've been great for me. Excellent documentation and communication, excellent packaging, cheapest prices in Europe for Proxxon, fast & secure delivery by DHL, very reasonable postage rates. What more could you ask?
But that's me in the UK -- not Germany, where the delivery prices are of course lower and, I note, sometimes included in the price.
Interestingly TBS Aachen also sell through Amazon and their prices on Amazon UK are considerably higher than if bought direct through their website.
Tony
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mikeaidanh reacted to AntonyUK in Making cannons from non-traditional materials
Hi.
For the people in the UK there is a very good resin for casting.
Black Fast Cast Polyurethane Liquid Plastic Casting Resin.
Made by DWR Plastics. They also sell on E-Bay.
This is a very thin resin and you do not get any air bubbles like other resins that are thicker.
Also it is a 2 part 50 50 mix . that is hard to get it wrong.
I used two syringes to measure the resins and they were reusable.
Setting time is 90 minutes.
Regards Antony.
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from WackoWolf in If you were allowed only one power tool - what would it be?
Many years back I had the use of a Shopsmith for a week. A mini one? Oh, yes please!
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from WackoWolf in Table Saw Hand Safety
I agree with all that has been said here but may I add a further thought?
Good machinery usually has good guards but they sometimes get in the way. Bad guards can be as hazardous as no guard at all. With this in mind designing and building jigs for specific tasks on saw tables, band saws and router/shaper tables can be employed to very good and safe effect. The one golden rule is this.....part of your jig should always be between the blade and your fingers.
Mike.
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from seahawk1 in Table Saw Hand Safety
I agree with all that has been said here but may I add a further thought?
Good machinery usually has good guards but they sometimes get in the way. Bad guards can be as hazardous as no guard at all. With this in mind designing and building jigs for specific tasks on saw tables, band saws and router/shaper tables can be employed to very good and safe effect. The one golden rule is this.....part of your jig should always be between the blade and your fingers.
Mike.
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from Jaxboat in Table Saw Hand Safety
I agree with all that has been said here but may I add a further thought?
Good machinery usually has good guards but they sometimes get in the way. Bad guards can be as hazardous as no guard at all. With this in mind designing and building jigs for specific tasks on saw tables, band saws and router/shaper tables can be employed to very good and safe effect. The one golden rule is this.....part of your jig should always be between the blade and your fingers.
Mike.
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from jud in Table Saw Hand Safety
I agree with all that has been said here but may I add a further thought?
Good machinery usually has good guards but they sometimes get in the way. Bad guards can be as hazardous as no guard at all. With this in mind designing and building jigs for specific tasks on saw tables, band saws and router/shaper tables can be employed to very good and safe effect. The one golden rule is this.....part of your jig should always be between the blade and your fingers.
Mike.
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from riverboat in Plank on frame ship cross section kit.
A couple of weeks past I spotted a kit, or maybe plans, for a cross section of ship that was plank on frame. I should have saved the information for future perusal but failed to and now I can't find it. I think it was a USA kit rather than European but I am not sure.
Can anyone point me in the right direction please?
Helping fellow members with creeping senility will gain you points in the next life......or so i have heard.
Mike.
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mikeaidanh got a reaction from AntonyUK in Plank on frame ship cross section kit.
A couple of weeks past I spotted a kit, or maybe plans, for a cross section of ship that was plank on frame. I should have saved the information for future perusal but failed to and now I can't find it. I think it was a USA kit rather than European but I am not sure.
Can anyone point me in the right direction please?
Helping fellow members with creeping senility will gain you points in the next life......or so i have heard.
Mike.
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mikeaidanh reacted to jdocwra in Mantua 1/23 Battle Station
As an update to my last posting I've found out that this kit is also now put out by Panart under the description " 1/23 scale Gun Deck" and that there is a very useful build log or kit making blog to be found here http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/gundeckwip.html in case anyone else is also going to make this kit. Mine is in the mail so I can't start my build log just yet!
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