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tkay11
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OOOPS! Sorry, Gregor, I just realised I could look at the small photo on the NMM website again. It only shows doors for one of the ports. But I suppose that might be illustrative of them all. What are you planning to do about the doors? Tony -
I'm glad you posted this about the chain plates, Gregor, not because of the chain plates, though -- although I really appreciate the detail and will do the same for mine when I get round to it -- but because of referring back to the plans in the earlier post. When looking at the plan I noticed for the first time the side-opening gun port doors. Are they like that for all the gun ports? Thanks Tony
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If you have an electric drill this can be used quite nicely to form the basis of a kind of lathe. Quite a few people on this forum have done so, as have I. Hubert Sicard on his site 'Wooden Ship Modeling for Dummies' provides an excellent video on how to do this. You have to pay $40 Canadian Dollars for life membership of his site, but I and many others have found it one of the best resources on the web -- especially for those of us who do not have expensive electrical and motorised equipment. He provides hundreds of very imaginative ideas on the use of simple tools and how to approach the various aspects of ship model building. The site is also in French and it is slightly better to access it in French as the English translation is sometimes a bit confusing. But all the videos are without sound and are very self-explanatory. Strongly recommended. Nay, advised! Tony
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I made some 1.7mm blocks from an old boxwood 36" ruler I bought on eBay for £3. I still have most of the ruler, and it was a real joy to make the blocks from it. However, when I tried the pear and the apple blanks the result was about the same. If you're thinking of boxwood, then the rulers you can find on eBay are fairly expensive if you think in terms of cubic mm, and certainly very much more expensive than pear or apple. The cheapest boxwood in cu mm terms that I can find on eBay is the 'Pack of ten Premium French Boxwood Pen Blanks for turning' for £15.50. But I think you can find it cheaper if you want 0.7mm sheets as these are found in marquetry suppliers, and there are some UK timber merchants that do boxwood (e.g. Timberline in Kent). I'll probably stick to pear and apple for the moment as I develop my skills and experience -- I still have a long way to go on that score! Tony
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Nice to see the stern so beautifully painted. As to the posts for the swivel guns, if you mean the wooden bases I haven't yet started on them in my own build, but it just may be that a coating of dilute PVA would give them enough solidity if they remain brittle. Otherwise you might make your own from an old boxwood ruler, or use some turning blanks of pear or apple that you can pick up very cheaply from eBay. I've been making a few bits and pieces from such blanks and they're definitely more easy to work with than the walnut that is supplied with the kit. The only thing is that you'd then have to think about staining or painting. You can see what I mean at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wood-Turning-Pen-Blanks-Pear-Yew-Walnut-Acacia-Spalted-Beech-Apple-etc-/350696238450?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&var=&hash=item51a71fed72. Tony
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I'm delighted you're thinking of starting up again, Daniel -- as, I am sure, will be many other members of this forum. Last night I started up again on by making single blocks and figuring out how best to put the rope straps and hooks on them. It was such a joy to get back to it after such a long time of intensive work. I've noticed that quite a few members have to leave the ship modelling for long periods of time, but that's the joy of the hobby: it's something that you can pick up again whenever the other pressures in life are reduced. That's what a hobby is for, isn't it? When you do come to start your log again, don't be worried by just posting the pictures that you have. Quite a few others have done the same when they re-built their own logs, and some were able to add a few words of explanation. I am sure you have seen Kester's log (Stockholm Tar) of his Sherbourne which is almost entirely in retrospect -- and he says he's thought of a lot more to say as a result! Tony
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What a delight to see you back, Daniel! Your build on MSW1.0 was such an inspiration to me that I feel quite proud that you've been able to enjoy anything I've done, and I was really missing your input. I am sure a lot of people would love to see your old log rebuilt on MSW2.0 if you by any chance have it stored on your computer. I remember you and Dirk having lots of very interesting conversations about the build as you were each at about the same stage. If you don't have the old blog stored in any way, it'll be great just to see you start again from where you are now. Building the ship's boat was for me a real delight as it showed me the joys of planning and building it without pre-formed parts of any kind. It has given me the courage and interest to do more of that in future once I have built a few more of the basic skills around other aspects of the model. I too am keen to see my further progress! For the last few months, though, I have been overwhelmed with work. However, the bulk of that work is now finished and I'll be back to tinkering away at the build fairly soon -- as long as I'm not landed with more work, that is! Tony
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Milling Bit Questions and Vendor Recommendations
tkay11 replied to Jay 1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Ah yes! Obvious answer! Thanks, Wefalk! Tony -
Milling Bit Questions and Vendor Recommendations
tkay11 replied to Jay 1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Could you name a European supplier of secondhand mills, Wefalck? Tony -
Hank: Blue Ensign had the idea of buying the spare part that is the bed (part no PRO000160) and making it as an extension. If you look at the back of the lathe's manual you'll see the part. The link to his post in his Pegasus build is here. Tony
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They're plentiful and cheap. You can find them easily on eBay. Have a look at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170803404093?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649. That one's from Hong Kong, but you can find them in many countries, I should imagine. Tony
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Nice to know you can pop over from Canada, David! I was last in the NMM a couple of years back when there was really only one gallery of models of the period. I'll have another look in August. Thanks for the tips about the mill. I can get the Proxxon from Germany at around £220 including delivery, which gives me a fair amount to buy bits and a dividing head. By the way I asked about the milling with a drill press because that's what I tried doing with my small Proxxon drill press while holding the head firmly in position. It works to a limited extent, but showed me the value of having a calibrated vertical feed. If you come over to the UK again and doing anything ship-wise send me a PM. Tony
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Ha! The milling machine has been on my mind a lot. I see you have a drill press which looks fairly massive -- do you use it as a mill as well? I've been oscillating between getting the Proxxon MF70 that is used by so many others on the forum, and a Sieg X1 (which is a proper milling machine). The problem with the Sieg is that it is more expensive, will cost much more with all the extras, and is much bigger and heavier. The advantage is the very long and much more robust table. In favour of the Proxxon is the fact that I would really only be using it for wood and so would tend to use router bits in it as well as the few milling bits I would need. It strikes me as being more than sufficient for wood modelling at small scale. However I've not had time these last couple of months to do anything more than think about it vaguely as I have been up to my eyes in work. Thanks a lot, David, for the kind comments, by the way! I have much admired your woodworking skills on Sultana and Phantom. Tony
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Yes, you need to bend it. There are lots of ways of doing this. I did mine by soaking in hot water and then very gently bending it with my hands. Tony
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Great to see it, Kester! I hope you post more pictures especially of detail. The sails and the ship's boat look terrific but it's unfair to pull those out for special praise because it all looks so wonderful! Thanks for keeping us up to date. Tony
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Excellent source and not too expensive! Thanks, Antony. Tony
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What do you use your mill for ?
tkay11 replied to captainbob's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
That's something I hadn't realised, Mark. Good thought and more food for it. Thanks. Tony -
What do you use your mill for ?
tkay11 replied to captainbob's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I've noticed nobody is mentioning the weight of these lathes. A Sieg X1 (similar or identical to Grizzly etc), which is referred to as a mini-mill and is often recommended, weighs 40Kg or so. I would find it difficult to get that kind of weight up two flights of stairs comfortably, let alone find space for it and then find a worktop that is sufficiently strong. It was only after realising this that I cut down my aspirations for a mill and thought hard what exactly I would be using it for -- so I'm now considering the smaller and lighter options (including the Proxxon MB200 with KT70 table) as they might well cover everything I'm ever likely to use them for. Certainly lots of people use the Proxxon MF70 very satisfactorily. From the specs I've read the head on the MF70 doesn't seem to be that different from the standard Proxxon mini-drill that I have so it's tempting to try that in the MB200. This is not a particular recommendation or suggestion -- just something people might want to consider when setting up their workshops in light of the work they are likely to undertake. Of course I'd love to have a Sieg X1 which is very cheap for what it does -- the weight and size simply make it impossible for my room. Tony -
Squaring Mini Drillpress to Work?
tkay11 replied to Jay 1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Maybe not easy, but fun -- and certainly satisfying when you are able finally to pull up that 3D model, isn't it! Tony -
There's also a good review at http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/thread382-Review---Proxxon-Micro-Lathe.html Tony
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Squaring Mini Drillpress to Work?
tkay11 replied to Jay 1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Very nice, TK1! Tony (TKAY11) -
Agreed. A very nice method. Thanks for the demonstration! I'll certainly try this way at some future date. Tony
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Thanks for the link, Gregor. Very interesting. I'm following the plans used for the 4 pounder guns on the Cutter Alert and just presumed 3 pounders would follow the same pattern. This shows a double at the bulwark and a single at the carriage. I have yet to make the single blocks -- well, that's not quite true: I made a whole lot but without replica sheaves so I'm about to make them again using the saw. Glad you reassured me about the helmet. I suppose it would also make shaving difficult. Tony
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That's very kind of you, Brian. I've often enjoyed your well-honed comments elsewhere on this site. I've also been intrigued by your membership photo/avatar as it shows a complex mixture of expressions. Does it have a particular significance? Tony
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Quite right, B.E. I've edited the posting to suit. And thanks for the kind remarks! Tony
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