Overworked724

Looks awesome!

I took a metal straight edge (10cm ruler) and stuck some 600 grit sandpaper to the back of it...it certainly helps grip the plank when I'm trying to cut it. Good tip!

That is exactly what I do, Jamie...I'm just not very skilled at it I guess. Another thing is that basswood tends to get scored to a certain point then cracks apart along the cutting line unevenly. I'm sure with denser wood like the cedar or boxwood this is not a problem. Something to consider for future.

Well, Dave. I just ordered Toni’s half hull kit! I have the same opinion...I want to get my planking down so I’ll be jumping it on it part time as a fun distraction.

Actually - I'm sure that is part of the problem. I would back stop the plank and overlay the straight edge, but halfway through the cut, I would notice the ever so slight wandering for the edge from the marking. I agree with you and Dave that sandpaper may be a much better grip than cork. Luckily, I'm going to (hopefully) copper the hull, so I just need the shape...but this is giving me some good experience on what NOT to do...so I'll probably jump on the half hull kit from NRG and try to focus on planking technique as a fun side project.

HI Dave. That is precisely how I have been trying to taper - but my efforts are a bit below par. Only difference between how you are doing it and how I have been is that I used cork instead of sandpaper on the back of the ruler. I might try sandpaper...! A very helpful call from Kurt cheered me up. I'll jump back on the planking horse a bit later. May amuse myself with drilling and setting the treenails on the bulwarks... Moving on!

Well...I was not expecting perfection. I’m using this planking project to identify my weaknesses and build some skills. However, my frustration is boiling over. I won’t post pics because it’s too embarrassing... I realize my biggest problem is trying to cleanly taper a 1/8” plank. I just don’t know how others do it. Another problem is the basswood strips. I realize now many of them are wider/narrower than they should be...which makes the job even harder. The quality of the basswood strips is poor and the edges are extremely rough. However, I’m glad I’m using the basswood because I don’t feel like I could do a respectable job using nicer wood. I’ve tried lining the hull, but the lines are defunct after I lay a plank because I can’t get the plank to lay clean against the edge of the adjacent plank. Plus the taper (I am using a razor blade and straight edge - poor method) is not a straight clean edge...which makes it impossible. How do others taper their planks? Finally...I can see why having a seamless hull is the recommended way forward. The gaps between the frames only give you the adjacent planks to adhere to...and so you are completely limited by the frame edge for surface area. Makes setting stealers more troublesome, and you need to bend the strips across individual small sections instead of having a clean continuous surface area. Next time it’s filler blocks all the way. I also think my fairing was not spot on...as I have the irritating clinker built effect continuing along the front of the hull. I really tried to fair her up as tightly as I could. Not certain what to do at this point, so I’m taking a break for the weekend. I’ll work on something else. I’m sure I can finish the planking, one way or another...but it won’t be planking...it will be ‘dry walling’ since I’ll just be covering the hull with wood to fill and copper over. Was really hoping I could do a better job. Moving on...kind of....

You just described the method I’m using. 🤣

Planking continues. I’m doing my best, but it’s some rough going. Transom is especially difficult. The bend below the counter, and trying to accurately trim the planks is beyond me. Doing my best though. Have a feeling my planking job once done is going to look like a patchwork quilt! I see a lot of wood filler in my future. Moving on....!

No worries. I’m still slowly pecking away at planking and other side projects for my model. Now that it’s Thursday, I should be able to get some progress over the weekend. On a side note, I think I might have a way to make the holes for the Shreveport blocks. We shall see....

Outstanding job on the head rails! Tricky work which came out flawless!

Some folks prefer a more subdued tree nail profile. I tend to agree with you, Will. The darker treenails pop out and it’s a pleasant effect, especially when considering how much work goes into setting them in the model!

Hi Will. Thank you. Yes, I’ve read many many blogs and watched several vids. I am attempting to use the method lining off the frames. As with all things, seeing is one thing, doing and developing the skill set is another. 😏 Again, my problem is understanding the technique needed to consistently thin down a plank. it’s funny you mention the Winchelsea. That’s probably going to be my next build...which could be a few years out at the rate I’m going. 🤔 Thanks for the helpful feedback on Chuck’s YouTube vids. I’ll check them out!

Well, Dave...I'd say as a beginner, I'm probably right where I should be as my efforts are barely passable as far as I can tell. I see a crap ton of wood filler in my future! I had some initial thoughts of trying to get the hull planking done in a way that might allow me the option of leaving the hull natural and forgo the copper plating. But I don't think that will be possible. I'm doing ok...nothing horribly bad, but it's going a bit rough...the stern especially... I have learned a couple of things first hand that I will not forget for my next model: 1. Basswood strips are absolute crap. The basswood strips that came in my kit are bad even for basswood...knots everywhere, dry as a bone, and grainy as all get out. After I get the hull planked, I'm not using basswood again. 2. If I ever do another plank on bulkhead I will be using filler blocks between every bulkhead frame. I can see the imperfect depressions between the frames where I don't have fillers...and planking the bow and the stern area without full surface area makes the planking that much harder to put on. So filler blocks it is...live and learn 3. Spiling or trimming planks is a mystery to me. I need to technique to make uniformly trimmed planks. Have no clue how other people do it...I'm using a razor blade and a ruler! (I'm equipment challenged) Ok....off to bed. Pics to follow a bit later! Moving on...to dreamland.

Ugh. I really stink at planking. 😑

I did plan to make the holes after sanding down the inner bulwarks and prior to installing the inner bulkhead planking. The problem I referred to is in the technique needed to make straight edges to the holes, and making the holes themselves...without marring the hull overmuch. We shall see!! Moving on...

HI Dave. The single blocks I made exactly one plank width. The double blocks are by necessity a bit wider, but those should be slightly easier to cut as the stern area has no bulkhead behind that are of planking. I'll do my best!

Took a stab at trying to install one of my earlier sheave blocks. I used the earlier faux deck made of basswood and added some filler blocks to simulate the thickness of the bulkhead. In the end, after making a horrible mess, I was able to get the block into my fake bulkhead. It’s ok...but It’s not as clean as I’d like. I wish I’d have made clean openings to instal the blocks while building up the exterior bulkheads. 😣Sanding sticks and pin vise with drill bit... I’ll be sweating bullets when trying to make these slots. 🙄 OK...

Really clean work! Nice job!!!

That’s a ton of work, Will. Those tree nails are always monotonous. I’ve just discovered audio books to make the time pass more smoothly. Got any background attention grabbers you use to take the edge off? Looking great!!!!

Looking nice! Love those detailed pieces!

Thanks, Will! Very much appreciated!! Like you, I get ideas from other build logs and read yours as well. Many different ways to simulate the sheaves. I liked your approach to making the sheaves. Since I don’t have a mill or mini-lathe, I needed to go a bit out of the box...which is the fun part of our gentle hobby. But...Making them is one thing...getting them on the ship is another. Seems Jesse’s build log was the right approach. Have the sheave blocks made and make the openings for them as you plank up the exterior bulkheads. 🤔 I’ll make the block openings before I put in the shear strake. So I’m now working on that approach while I continue to noodle over planking. Planking is going slow...but here are a couple of boring pics. 😊 Moving on...!

Didn't think of this until now....but this little side trip into making the sheave blocks is identical to how I would make the sheaves for the catheads. The block height for the double sheaves in the stern bulkhead is roughly the same as the cathead width...awesome. One less thing. And what's funny is that I just imagined a simple jig to make reproducible cross sections with exact thickness...will try on the catheads!! Moving on...

"Bringing in the Sheaves"...continued. So I cut out the holes for the single and double sheaves. After cutting the sheave holes, I reset the piece on it's side in the mini vise on my x-y table at the proper angle to drill the hole for the axle (is that the proper term) which will be 0.50mm brass wire. For each section of wood, I could make 4 blocks comfortably, so made eight (8) singles and four (4) doubles. I like to think I made this many to pick the 'best of the lot', but it's really because I know me and I screw up a lot! After getting the sections predrilled, I did a brief sanding using 400 grit sandpaper. I cut some strips that would slide into the sheave holes, and connected them (back to back) in my mini-vice. Then I just slid them into the sheave and I could do a touch up sand on both sides of the hole’s interior. (I'm not looking for perfect...I'm looking for decent!) Afterwards, I cut my little sheaves from the mini-Skulpy noodle, and lined them up with the axle holes. You'll notice the Skulpy sheave in the pic below has a hole in it. I just ran my pin vise with a little drill bit down the center (again - I'm just eye balling here but it worked.) I got the wire set in the block with CA by touching one side of the wire with CA and slowly pulling the other end through until the wire seized in the wood. Then I trimmed off both sides and sanded with my 220 girt sanding stick (my most useful tool!). Now the strips with the sheaves can be put away until I'm ready to cut the individual blocks to place on the ship. The blocks have enough room on front/back to sand down if required. Not sure if they are accurate, but this is the best I can do with them...and I prefer these over drilling holes and simulating the sheaves by carving. I don't trust my expertise enough in carving to do that... Moving on....

Oh my GOD!!! You started my Pg 6 with an emoticon!!! 🤣