Overworked724
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Everything posted by Overworked724
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Thanks so much! The words of encouragement really help! -
Got the starboard wales on...rough but pretty nice result. Used cedar and glad I did. Now working on the port side. Also made a simple jig to help me remove the copper plates from the adhesive backing without driving myself crazy. Pics to follow. Moving on...
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@WalrusGuyActually, the entire hull is basswood. I’m just done ever using basswood again. 😊 I’ll try to find some sealer.
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@RichardGWas there any particular type of paint or brand you used?
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More ‘sanding/filling/sanding’. I keep scrutinizing the hull and finding areas I could smooth out a bit more. Kind of hitting the point of diminishing returns so will stop here. I keep rubbing the hull like it’s some erotic fetish...but seriously, I’m amazed at how smooth and solid it feels. 👍🏽 Time to move on. I guess the only question is whether I should coat the hull with a wipe on poly or base coat of primer to help adhesion of the copper plates. Not sure. Anyone got some advice? On a different tack...I really hate basswood. I’ve come to the point in this model where I won’t tolerate it unless it’s part of the premade laser cut pieces. So, I decided to cut up my stock of 24” boxwood blocks to make a false keel piece (5/16”). I figured that would be easy to make. And frankly, I can’t say enough about how tight and silky boxwood feels. It’s amazingly tight grained wood. I cut a 1/16” x 5/16” section of boxwood to compare to the basswood strip...and let’s just say I’m sold. Basswood... Boxwood... And comparing them, feeling them, etc. I can get a better understanding why basswood (very thready and won’t hold an edge) is not preferable. Cheap, yes... but you get what you pay for. My false keel is prepped...and my boxwood stash is ready when needed. Moving on...
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After some sanding and more sanding...then wood filler and some sanding...and more sanding...and wood filler...you get the idea. Hull is now smoother than a baby’s butt. 👶 Had to pay attention to the stern, but after filler and sanding it turned out ok... It’s not perfect, but it should turn out pretty decent after painting and coppering (fingers crossed). What the hell...moving on!!
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A bit more slow progress. At least I can say the hull planking is on (such as it is). My greatest respect to folks who can pull if seamless planking. It’s a skill which I still need to develop. But I’m gladly moving on...to sanding and more sanding and wood filler. The stern was rough...but I take heart in the fact I’ve never done planking before, so I’ll give myself a small pat on the back and move on. 🍺
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Thanks, Dave. I needed the kind word. 🙏🏻
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I think she looks marvelous and gives me more motivation to continue with my own build! Nice progress!!!!
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By the way, Bill. If you look at my build log you see I was not too happy with golden oak either. Made some comparisons on some faux deck mock ups. I think it’s a combination of basswood and the golden oak stain...too hard to gauge...like a crap shoot.
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Hey Bill The paper template is a guide...not the rule. Also. When you bend it around the frame near the front it won’t align as the plans are printed in 2D while your frame is 3D. I used push pins to hold my batten and mark the frame. You are doing a marvelous job so far!
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Nice idea using the laser cut piece, Wally! Wonderful work!,,
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Beautiful work!
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Now I know why admiralty models are so popular!!! 🤣
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Gone but not forgotten...got 1/2 of my Syren planked. Just focused on getting the hull covered without too many garish errors (but it’s not historical planking). I figure filling, sander, and sealing will be my next endeavor. On to finish second side...yippeee. Will save accuracy’s planking skill development for my 1/2 hull project. But I still need to work out how to trim planks accurately...it’s A real bear of a problem. But I want to continue modeling my Syren so I’ve changed my mindset to ‘get the wood on the bloody hull!’ Here are some gratuitous photos... Moving on....
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One other thing. Glue. Any glue...PVA (water based) or CA can penetrate the pores in the wood which the stain absorbs into. Pencil marking and sanding is no difficulty. But if you have any glue penetration across the surface you intend to stain (especially if it’s CA) then the glue might not penetrate. Then you get a blotchy look which no sanding can correct. I had this same question when I made the Sultana (my first ship). I’ve seen some folks prestaining their wood, which makes this less an issue. Best thing is the use PVA and be sure the surface is clear of any glue spots...on decks this can occur if you press an adjacent plank on with too much glue...the PVA may push up in the gap between planks, which means you need the wipe the residual glue out, and some PVA may absorb into the wood. Rule of thumb...carpenters PVA holds like steel once dry and you don’t need a lot. If you minimize glue spread, especially on making the deck, you are fine to stain after it’s down and sanded. Order is pencil once (or both) facing edges. Glue on. Sand down. Stain. That’s how I approached and the results were great.
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Yep! I agree. The challenge really is getting them even and flat...then using the stamp to create reproducible plates.
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You can look at my blog and see how I made mine. They protrude out about 3-4 mm on my stamps.
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Just reading directions and chopping out the bits and doing some dry fit. So far same as the practicum. Moving on...
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Thanks, Will. No worries. I’ve passed a few hurdles recently. More to come!
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As with all new logs, here are the baby pics. 👶 This is a side project focusing solely on planking technique, so will give me a valuable added tool to build some confidence, and when I need a break from the Syren. Besides...should be fun! Printed out the practicum. Already read it, and I know I’ll have some questions for Toni @tlevine when I get to those parts. Nicely written though and easy to follow for the most part. Stuck it in a spare binder because I’m anal retentive like every other modeler. Already had a 1/4” trifold foam presentation board I got from Walgreens. It fits the plans perfectly. Used 3M spray to adhere the plans and fixed the border of the plans with some Tamiya tape...just for giggles really. The folded flaps were also sprayed and glued down to make a sort of double layer foam board. 🤓 Let the fun begin...after reading a couple of the other builds for the tutorial kit, I’ll be interested to see if any of the frames seem to ‘bulge out’ asymmetrically. More to come....
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Well, I decided to invest in a side project developed by my ship club mate, Toni Levine (@tlevine). Since my last post on my Syren build log, I've made more progress in some basic techniques of manipulating the planks. Specifically, I received an old plank clamp which was the property of Steve Wheeler (we all miss you, Steve). Hopefully that will take some of the plank trimming frustration away...so far it works great on a few trial planks. In the interim - I've received the NRG tutorial kit. Like others who adopted this side project, I wasn't really sure where to put this build log, so stuck it where others have - hope that's ok. If this turns out, aside from gaining a bit more confidence, I plan to mount it as a wall hanging and make a present out of it...but have to wait and see the final result. Pics to follow... Moving on!
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