Overworked724
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Looks great! And I love my rotary tool too. 👍🏽 -
The finished diameter fits holes drilled using a #76 drill bit. 😳 Not certain what that equates to.
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Hi Elijah! I can’t take credit for this process. Another builder on this forum used this and I decided to try. I can’t remember the modeler.
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Hi Dave. I updated my post. Press only! The drill is not on. 👍🏽
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Ok. Just a repeat of how I made my trunnels. I used a 20 gauge dispensing needle (20 pack on Amazon...5$). Clip off the plastic connector on the back of the needle and sanded down both sides of the tip using a Dremel disc sanding head. It makes a "u" shaped head which can core the wood block used to create the trunnels. Put it in my little drill press fitted with an x-y table and mini vise. Put in a blank of cedar wood (grain facing up and down). Pics below. NOTE: I am not using the drill as a drill - only as a PRESS!! The pic below shows the trunnel depth and where it remains connected to the wood block. After making a few trunnel stacks (think these are about 100 Nails per piece), used my table saw with fine tooth blade to trim off the top - above where the nails are still connected to wood. These things are dinky! So used a blunted pin to poke them out into a little jar. Took my about 40 minutes or so to make about 300 nails. Will make more when I run out...which will be soon! Moving on...to the boring yet also stranegly relaxing part of turning my exterior bulkheads into pin cushions.
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Yeah...this is a difficult part. Fairing the hull (bulwark angles) is key to getting decent planking runs. If you have one badly faired frame, you can run into problems. I did use a dremel at this point to trim some bulk of the wood. The dashed lines on the frames are a guide....not the rule. Dremel drum sanders take off a LOT in a short time. So just be careful. Filler blocks between the frames once they are glued in and true (square with the bulk head former) will stabilize the model. I think a lot of the builds gloss of this part as it is both labor intensive and boring. 😃 But very very important to get right. Looking good!!!
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Howdy Keith. I make them myself and describe the process on pg 4 of this build. Hope it helps you!
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Got my trunnel holes drilled. Decided to put some trunnels in the transom as well. Figured I would start there to see how they turned out. I have to say, dipping the cedar nails in the 50:50 glue and sliding the ends into the holes is not as challenging as I was thinking it would be...thank God. It will take time and I’ll need to make more nails (quick job), but I’m glad I approached them this way rather than using toothpicks. This is much easier! Moving on....
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My advice - do yourself a favor and don't leave the overage from the keel section longer than an inch beyond the edge of the stern post. I left mine a bit long and during planking feel like I got away with one of two catastrophes when I accidentally hooked the extended section of the keel. By the way - love your stand! Lazy susan was a great idea!!
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Hey Red...that's the great thing...there's always a 'next' model! Carry on!
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Just a thought - alternatively, you can carve the bearding line/rabbet curvature into the bulkhead former without the rabbet piece glued on...then glue on later. This is what I did and it made the carving a bit less stressful. Alternatively, you can glue on the piece using PVA glue (spot glue at certain points to keep it on) then carve the keel. Afterwards, remove the rabbet piece (a bit of water at the points used to glue it on) and add a new rabbet piece (nice a clean). You did a great job carving! I used also chisel (mini chisel I got from Micromark). Fun stuff!
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Yep...those drilling events always make me nervous too. I’m putting in the trunnels holes in the side of my Syren now and that’s nerve wracking enough. Drilling the holes on the interior is cringeworthy...I’m afraid I’ll puncture the wall. How are you drilling your holes? Pin vise?
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Many people approach this differently ... I actually rough carved the bearding line and the lower edge of the bulkhead former (big center piece which holds the frames) before I put the small section of wood which actually 'creates' the rabbet. It might be a bit risky, but for me it was a bit easier as I am horrible at sanding. The intent of the rabbet is to give the garboard strake (that first plank that sits against the rabbet and runs along the frames) a slot to sit in, as well as the terminating ends of your planks at the bow and stern. It makes planking a bit easier. I'm still a novice...but the rabbet definitely helps!
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I've been there...done that...and I still keep doing that!! So don't feel bad. Steady on...
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Awesome! Pulling up a chair. I’m slow, so you’ll probably pass me by next week. 🤣
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Finally got the stern fixed sheave block holes carved out. Sweating bullets during ‘bulkhead surgery’. Again it was tape and using a brass bar on the lower edge to keep me honest and carving within the lines. I’m glad I got them carved in. 👍🏽 Been fretting over the stern holes for a long while...😅 Moving on...
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You could try to dilute the glue a bit more. That may help.
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Well...the shaping of the transom cap rail is not the problem...the thickness is. It does look a bit blocky. I’ve decided I’m going to redo it by precutting the 1/32” cap rail to shape and adding to the transom to see how it looks. Then I’ll add the second layer after.
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Rewetting the piece and microwaving on the forming block for 45sec (think I did twice...rewetting before second time) really helped keep the shape. I added a second strip of 1/32” cedar after I bent/shaped it...then glued it to the first one using PVA glue. I trimmed down the edge a bit and it seems it held its overall shape. It should be plenty wide to carve out the proper width for the transom cap rail. We will see...!!! Moving on...
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For scratch I would totally avoid basswood. 😎
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Dave, it sands down like glass and it cuts very easily. Bending around sharp corners when the wood is wet is not as difficult as with basswood. The cedar wood tends to hold it’s shape better and the tightness of the grain is obvious because the wood doesn’t splinter as easily when bending around those sharp corners. The stain takes into the wood much better and more evenly for Cedar then for basswood. I think the big sell for me is that it doesn’t get hairy and thready like like basswood does after sanding. After you prepare the wood it’s ready to work. Of course you can take this with a grain of salt because my experience with wood is pretty limited. I think the big sell for me is that it doesn’t get hairy and thready like like basswood does and cuts like butter. I have a little bit of boxwood and the stuff is like gold to me for those same reasons I like cedar. The only drawback of cedar (which I actually like) is the yellowish hue. But I love the smell as well. I got some from Syren and the stuff Chuck sells is worth trying. 👍🏽
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I tried rewetting and microwaving. It did help shape the piece tremendously! Might experiment a bit with the microwave. Interesting...piece came out very hot as well as almost dry.
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BY the way...I only use Tamiya paint...it's awesome and you can thin with water. But Tamiya also sells a thinner. The paint is solvent based, so it dries very fast and also evaporates a bit quickly. The sheen on using flat black may just be from your finger oil spreading on the paint base.
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