HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING!
×
Overworked724
-
Posts
1,256 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Overworked724
-
That’s an awesome plane! What a great hobby!!!! -
Yep. The middle bulkhead frames need very little fairing. Keep in mind the char on the frames if left there can lead to less stable glue seals. The char can ‘come off’. Some folks sanded the char to ensure solid glue surface.
-
Hey Bill. Yeah, that’s a tricky setup. Difficult but not impossible. You put the filler blocks high and up near the sills it looks like. You will need to sand down the gun and sweep port blocks anyway...so the technique you use here you will repeat with that step. I found my best sanding tool for this was not my rotary tool. It was a trimmed and folded sheet of the self adhesive sanding pad for my disk sander! I used a 160 grit pad, folded it in half to make it stick to itself so I could use either side. You can shape (cut with scissors) the round edge so you can reach the lower inboard sills. The manual process will actually work pretty good. Failing tha, you could remove them and preshape them before gluing in. Just some thoughts.
-
I really appreciate the compliment, Abe! I enjoy watching your inspiring build as well. I think the fellow builders on this site really push you to achieve your best results as well as enjoy the hobby!
-
Yeah...old horror movie. The main bad guy has nails all over his head! 🤣
-
If you look on my Sultana build log I’ve got some swatches which show that exact effect with darker stains. Staining with a natural stain (which is what I use beside tung oil) isn’t an issue.
-
Still putzing with the bulkhead trunnels. Kind of fun...oddly relaxing. Got transom and port side done. Working on starboard side...then it’s time for the haircut and sanding. Reminds me of the movie Hellraiser... Moving on...
-
I have tried both. Tung oil offers a nice benefit in that if you have some glue blemishes it won’t matter. Stain is always a risk if you have any unwanted glue spread.
- 436 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Syren
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Will, she’s coming along. Nice work on those fenders! You said those were basswood?
-
I love Lowe’s. 10% Military Discount on everything you buy!
- 436 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Syren
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Hi Dave I measured with a digital caliper and they are exactly 0.53mm in diameter
-
Hi Red. I kind of 'rough faired' the frames before I glued them in - since as I was sanding (using a sandpaper covered painting stirrer) the frames would slightly shift a bit. After I got the fillers in and the frames glued on - it was like a rock, and the fairing from that point was more 'touch up' than anything else. Just be sure to use a planking strips to verify the lay of the planks across the hull. If you have any high or low spots, they tend to stick out.
- 436 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Syren
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Looks great! And I love my rotary tool too. 👍🏽
-
The finished diameter fits holes drilled using a #76 drill bit. 😳 Not certain what that equates to.
-
Hi Elijah! I can’t take credit for this process. Another builder on this forum used this and I decided to try. I can’t remember the modeler.
-
Hi Dave. I updated my post. Press only! The drill is not on. 👍🏽
-
Ok. Just a repeat of how I made my trunnels. I used a 20 gauge dispensing needle (20 pack on Amazon...5$). Clip off the plastic connector on the back of the needle and sanded down both sides of the tip using a Dremel disc sanding head. It makes a "u" shaped head which can core the wood block used to create the trunnels. Put it in my little drill press fitted with an x-y table and mini vise. Put in a blank of cedar wood (grain facing up and down). Pics below. NOTE: I am not using the drill as a drill - only as a PRESS!! The pic below shows the trunnel depth and where it remains connected to the wood block. After making a few trunnel stacks (think these are about 100 Nails per piece), used my table saw with fine tooth blade to trim off the top - above where the nails are still connected to wood. These things are dinky! So used a blunted pin to poke them out into a little jar. Took my about 40 minutes or so to make about 300 nails. Will make more when I run out...which will be soon! Moving on...to the boring yet also stranegly relaxing part of turning my exterior bulkheads into pin cushions.
-
Yeah...this is a difficult part. Fairing the hull (bulwark angles) is key to getting decent planking runs. If you have one badly faired frame, you can run into problems. I did use a dremel at this point to trim some bulk of the wood. The dashed lines on the frames are a guide....not the rule. Dremel drum sanders take off a LOT in a short time. So just be careful. Filler blocks between the frames once they are glued in and true (square with the bulk head former) will stabilize the model. I think a lot of the builds gloss of this part as it is both labor intensive and boring. 😃 But very very important to get right. Looking good!!!
- 436 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Syren
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Howdy Keith. I make them myself and describe the process on pg 4 of this build. Hope it helps you!
-
Got my trunnel holes drilled. Decided to put some trunnels in the transom as well. Figured I would start there to see how they turned out. I have to say, dipping the cedar nails in the 50:50 glue and sliding the ends into the holes is not as challenging as I was thinking it would be...thank God. It will take time and I’ll need to make more nails (quick job), but I’m glad I approached them this way rather than using toothpicks. This is much easier! Moving on....
-
My advice - do yourself a favor and don't leave the overage from the keel section longer than an inch beyond the edge of the stern post. I left mine a bit long and during planking feel like I got away with one of two catastrophes when I accidentally hooked the extended section of the keel. By the way - love your stand! Lazy susan was a great idea!!
- 436 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Syren
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Hey Red...that's the great thing...there's always a 'next' model! Carry on!
-
Just a thought - alternatively, you can carve the bearding line/rabbet curvature into the bulkhead former without the rabbet piece glued on...then glue on later. This is what I did and it made the carving a bit less stressful. Alternatively, you can glue on the piece using PVA glue (spot glue at certain points to keep it on) then carve the keel. Afterwards, remove the rabbet piece (a bit of water at the points used to glue it on) and add a new rabbet piece (nice a clean). You did a great job carving! I used also chisel (mini chisel I got from Micromark). Fun stuff!
Our Emblem ®
