gjdale

Thanks everybody!  We are fully settled in the apartment and had a series of housewarming parties, kid birthdays, vacations and other offtopic activities. 
 
I finally got some time to resume modelling. The longer the pause is, the harder it is to resume. Especially since I am facing is an internal planking, which is a tricky thing if you want it to be neat. And not all mistakes could be hidden by sanding, since a lot of planks have different thickness. D-oh!
 
Clamping jig to the table is very convenient, I am glad I added a vice to make it possible, can recommend!

First boxwood pieces on the model! Future limber streaks. Planing during a sunset is very relaxing.

Made a mill fixture to route a rabbet into that boards.

 
It works, but the cut is not very smooth. Overall, this boxwood tends to chip a bit when you mill it freehand of when you scrape it. That is unusual after pear that scrapes smooth. So I need to rely more on files and planes, using scraping for finishing touches, not for shaping

 
I haven't faired the internal part of the hull in delicate areas, so now I am repaying that debt by fairing it now, trying not to scratch the keelson. And hey, it's 21st century, moving pictures are a thing!  

Frames are scratched with a diamond file to improve glue adhesion and break down the surface patina layer.

Final fit is checked with a test plank next to it. Of course, the bottom of the plank is shaped to follow the curvature, and underside edges are broken to simplify the fit with the next plank.

After the glue-up, some final blending is done with fine sandpaper and scraping:

 
And the end result is "hoorray, I installed the first plank in a few years"  
Now it's just a matter of adding the rest of the planks. 

It's so great to be back!  

Just continuing from the previous post, a few more shots of the finished ship:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now, a number of you have been wondering what’s next. 
 
As you know, I’ve been leaning more and more to the “dark side”, but I also want to take on a slightly smaller project - hopefully one that won’t take 19 years to complete!  I’ve also been encouraging my very good mate Mobbsie to come with me to the dark side.  So one evening while we were chatting on Skype, we decided that it might be fun to do a “group build” together and that is what we shall do.  The subject will be a cross-section model of the Bomb Vessel Granado in 1:48 scale.  We will be using plans drawn by Jeff Staudt (available through our neighbour site Model Ship Builder), and we are using timber from Jeff Hayes at HobbyMill. 
 

 
I’ve promised Mobbsie that I won’t start until he’s finished his Aggy, which he reckons is another couple of weeks away (yeah, right - so far, he’s achieved in 19 months what it’s taken me 19 years to do!).  So for a group build with a difference (since we're in opposite hemispheres), keep an eye out for our respective logs - coming to MSW in just a few short weeks.
 
I have also had a hankering to do a non-ship related build, so I will be doing this in tandem.  It is a (relatively) small kit from OcCre of Stephenson’s Rocket. 
 

 
Of course, I won’t be able to run a log of that here, but will provide a link for anyone interested.  And don’t be surprised if you see something “rocket-like” in the background of the Cross-Section updates!
 
Catch you all on the other side.  Thanks for following.       

I've managed to fill in some useful details in the last few weeks. First, I added a few support rods dropping from the boiler deck to hold up the steam lines between the boilers and engines:


Next, I started adding the outer support posts between the main & boiler decks. First, the stern:
 

Then, a sequence from the bow:
 


You may also notice that I added another transverse chain right in front of the main stairwell. Kurt had suggested this, and I decided it was a good idea as the main deck extends pretty far from the hull here with very little support from above (as both the boiler deck and the hull curve sharply inward). It adds some nice visual detail, too.
 
Next, I started filling in the port wall in front of the paddle box. At the last moment, I couldn't bring myself to fully block off the view of the port engine, so I borrowed an idea from many sternwheelers and included some ventilation/access hatches next to the engine. No idea if this is accurate for sidewheelers, but I think it looks pretty neat. I also built a set of basic crates to fill in the cargo area here. Below, they're loosely stacked in what's likely their permanent arrangement. There will be an outer wall here from the paddle box to the first support post, so they'll only really be seen from the front, thus it doesn't matter if there's nothing at the bottom of the stack. I based these on Google Image searches for Civil-War-era crates (I chose the easiest design to replicate for a detail that will be mostly hidden). In the background of the previous photo you get another hint of what the "loaded" vessel will look like.
 


And last, here's an overhead view of the current model. I think the next step will be starting to lay down the boiler deck, so this may be the last unobstructed view of the main deck. There's a lot of detail left to add to the main deck, but all of it is toward the outer edges where I can do it when the model is closer to being finished.
 

In other news, I had a pretty neat experience over the last month. A few years ago, when I first started building wooden nautical models, I built a rough version of an upper Missouri River keelboat, the kind commonly used by fur trappers and other rivermen to float goods down from the mountains (like furs, gold, etc.). These were usually knocked together from rough lumber, took one trip, then were sold for their lumber upon reaching St. Louis. Mine was based on a variety of images, including some of the full-size replicas used in the 1952 film The Big Sky. Here's a nice, long article with lots of images for those interested in these craft. Anyway, here's the model:
 

A fellow browsing MSW saw this model in its gallery and got in touch with me through the NRG. I assumed he was just interested in learning more about keelboats (or was maybe an expert who wanted to correct something), but it turns out he's a huge fan of the film mentioned above and was interested in buying the model! We came to an easy agreement and I carefully packed and shipped off the model. I never thought I'd actually sell a model, and it's a really neat feeling to know that my work is making someone other than me happy! Fun note, the sails are made from scrap fabric left over from Mrs. Cathead's wedding dress, 11 years ago.
 
Next up, I'll be working on the boiler deck and casting deep shadows over all that main deck detail. Enjoy it while you can! Thanks for reading.
 
 

25' Cutters Ver 2_5 continued
 
The next step for the cutters was to create some mast support bands to attach to the thwarts.  Each cutter has two of these.  I used some thin brass strap and bent them to shape by using a jig, the idea for which I "borrowed" from Ian Major's lovely Unicorn log.  Ian machined his in metal, however I cheated and used MDF for the pressing surfaces, with a brass rod inserted as the former.
 

 
After blackening, they were attached to the thwarts, which had been shaped for the other half of the "hole".  In this pic, the thwart hasn't been finished sanded yet.
 

 
After that, it was a simple matter of cutting the stern sheets, which I did using a paper template and cutting from a single piece of 1/32" pear stock, and then finessed to fit.  The remaining thwarts were cut to size and finish sanded, putting a slight bevel/curve on the upper outside edges.  The timber was left natural, only polished with successively finer grades of sandpaper.  I also installed mast steps under the appropriate thwarts - you can just make these out in the photos.  And here is a finished Cutter.  The macro lens is not my friend today!  I swear those blemishes on the cap rail aren't visible to the naked eye!!!
 

 
Here's a picture alongside the 28' Pinnace for comparison.  Note the very different hull shapes.
 

 
And here's both Cutters, with my usual "scaling" shot:
 

 
The Cutters (and all boats) are now FINISHED!!!!!!  Doin' the Happy Dance!      
 
To celebrate, I thought I'd take a few shots of my Lilliputian Fleet. I had to remove the Launch from it's home on the "mother ship" for these shots, and was surprised by how large it looks in comparison to the others.
 

 

 

 

 
And finally, one last "scaling shot"
 

 
That's it for ship's boats.  I do not intend to make either the Barge or the Jolly Boat.
 
Next up, fitting the Quarter Davits, finish and fit the Anchors, and install rope coils throughout.  Almost there..........
 
 

Superb work Danny. The kit may be a good one, but it takes a true master to realise its full potential and you are doing just that.

Post 2
Getting to grips
First thing to note is that the part numbers are not laser cut into the mdf parts. It is necessary to mark all parts with the reference number before removal from the host sheet.

336
When starting a kit I like to dry fit the parts to get a feel for the build, and make up a simple build board to support the stem and keel.
 On my kit the bulkhead parts and the false keel are quite a loose fit so great care will need to be taken make sure that the bulkheads remain square during assembly while the glue dries.

338
The lower deck which slots over the bulkheads helps to stabilise the bulkheads square to the keel, but still allows  some movement in the vertical plane.
The stern post fits loosely into slots on the false keel and is glued into place, but before this can be done the instructions say to reduce the stern area  to half its thickness to allow for subsequent planking to fit flush against the stern post.
The actual area of the stern to be reduced is indicated as relating to the very aft edge of the false keel and the tabs attached to the stern post.

347
A specific  bearding line has not been indicated, but I have drawn one in for the purposes of my build.

348
Altho' there is a long slot down the stem piece which in effect is the rabbet for the bow planking, the set up doesn't seem to lend itself easily to a keel rabbet to secure the Garboard plank.
Any such rabbet would need to be cut along the actual keel leading up to the stem slot.
There is only a 3mm width of keel to play with so any rabbet would have to be fairly shallow and would inevitably reduce the gluing area to the false keel. I think faying the Garboard strake into the keel is the safe option.

345
It is interesting to note that the stem, rudder post and rudder are quite close to the  1:64 scale drawings in the Goodwin book.

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I will scribe the section joins that make up the stem as indicated in the Goodwin book, onto the kit provided stem.
I had considered reproducing these items in Boxwood, but as I intend to paint the stem this would be a waste of good timber.
 
B.E.
23/06/2019
 

Superb work Danny. The kit may be a good one, but it takes a true master to realise its full potential and you are doing just that.

Nice to see you back Bob - it’s always a delight to follow your builds,

Superb work Danny. The kit may be a good one, but it takes a true master to realise its full potential and you are doing just that.

Nice to see you back Bob - it’s always a delight to follow your builds,

Superb work Danny. The kit may be a good one, but it takes a true master to realise its full potential and you are doing just that.

Nice to see you back Bob - it’s always a delight to follow your builds,

good evening everyone
 
superstructure masked off to indicate handrails and ladders 
after mast with wedge to rake it
the rudder control lines pass down each side of the superstructure through two blocks

 
and i added a load more leds for deck lighting

 
 
 
 

Still drying and getting fainter, had to take a photo then  put the decks under weights to stop any bowing

It's been almost 4 months since I last posted. For the first time in over 50 years of modeling, I suffered total "burnout".  I just didn't even want to look at this model (or any other). Within the last week, I finally decided to give it another go, and proceeded to finish up the hull planking, where I had left off months ago. While I'm not particularly happy with the result, it does feel good to be back at it.  I've removed the baseboard and am now in the process of removing the frame centers.
 
Hopefully, I am past any thought of abandoning this project (to be clear, the issues were entirely mine, and in no way a reflection on the fine quality of this kit), and back on track.
 
Bob

Congratulations - that looks like a real find! All that extra tooling is probably worth more than the lathe itself - what a bonus!

Superb work Danny. The kit may be a good one, but it takes a true master to realise its full potential and you are doing just that.

Congratulations - that looks like a real find! All that extra tooling is probably worth more than the lathe itself - what a bonus!

Hi all, 
 
Well, I'm the proud owner of a 1941 South bend model A lathe! 
 
It has some wear, but so would anyone born in 1941!
 

 
I'm the forth owner.  The third owner bought it three years ago, but never set it up and ran it.  The the machine never ventured past the suburbs of DC.  Even have the original shipping info.
 

 
It needs some cleaning and surface rust removed on the tooling, but the gears and the gear box are clean- no chips in the gears of the box.  Everything works as it should and was well lubricated.  Just VERY dirty and in need of a good cleaning, new oil and probably new felts in the wipers.
 
Lots and lots of tooling included as well as several options were ordered with lathe. Even came with the 2nd owner's machinist tool box.  The tool box was also full of tools, micrometers, gauges, etc.  There were three boxes full of tooling and a box full of cutting bits.
 

His Union record book and certificate were still in one of the drawers

 

So, although the lathe was extremely heavy (between 300-400 pounds), two people were able to move it.  I was lucky a good friend was available as was his truck.  Saved me from trying to figure out how to get it in and out of my wife's SUV.  For me, it was VERY heavy.  I used my legs and saved my back.  The tools and tool box are heavy enough to bend my table.  In fact, the chucks actually deformed the surface.  Oh well, who cares.. I've got a lathe!!!  Now I just need to learn to run it.  Now I need to turn my focus back to the ship!
 
I need to focus on the rigging!!!  Ignore the lathe... focus on rigging... ignore the lathe ...ignore the lathe...
Did I mention that I got a lathe!!!
 
 
 
 

Thanks Ab, and I agree with your opinion of the kit. I've made a couple of other Halinskis and this one is by far the most detailed  .
 
Both the canopies fitted. I'll fit the doors near the end of the build as they can be easily knocked off in the open position (the hinges are "non-working") :



 
The next section of skin fitted. These skins are REALLY tight - you have to be spot-on with the framing fairing as the piece wraps around from from top-left to top-right in one piece :



I did a bit of plumbing in the transmission bay using brass wire painted (mostly) in-situ with artist's acrylics :

 
Danny

I thought it would be a good idea to fit the two canopies to protect the cabins from damage. I'm using the preformed canopies, but they still need quite a bit of work in cutting them.
 
The kit actually supplies two sets of canopy braces as they are easily damaged when cutting and fitting them. I didn't need the 2nd ones  :



 
I glued the bracing to the canopies with PVA, let it set, and then wicked some Plastic Super Glue along the edges. Everything held very well :



 
I'm displaying the model with opened doors to show as much interior detail as possible :




 
This HUD took me over a day to make :


 
 
The gunner's canopy fitted :

 
Danny

It has been a while since I have updated my build log.  I am about half way through the planking process.  I have only snapped two planks in the process of contouring the planks.  It was easy to make replacement planks using the excess wood on the bottom of the laser cut plank sheets.  I am finding that the planks fit much nicer now that I am beyond the first three rows of planks from the keel.  I am drilling the holes for the simulated nails when I install each plank as it seems easier to me not to miss the bulkheads below the plank with my drill bit.  Here are some pictures of my progress to date:

OK, we just had our sleeve boxes arrive. These are 6mm thick double walled cardboard - all kits will now be shipped in these:
 
 

Thanks guys  . Popeye - the inner skin is only on those sections where the interior is visible, The other sections only have the 1mm thick framing to glue to.
 
Next we move to the forward landing gear bay :


 
The next section of framing :

 
Now I'm starting with the outer skins. The framing needs very careful fairing, as there is absolutely NO margin for error. Lots of dry fitting after shaping each skin was required :



 
The joins between sections of skin have a separate joining strip which is glued to the inner face of the skin so they line up without a step. The laser-cut frames have a recess in them to allow for this strip. These also need to be carefully faired :


 
Danny

Excellent work!