bartley
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bartley got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 36: Pin Rails
The port pin rail is now installed. Rails are made from 3/64 strip and 4 mm deep. O.9 mm holes keep the pins reasonably tight:
Starboard still to do and the bow rail will need to be replaced as I drilled the holes too large,
John
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bartley got a reaction from michael mott in Byrnes Table Saw making a 1mm by 1mm strip
Excellent advice, Bob. I would add Rule 4: Rehearse the cut. i.e. without the saw running push the work through exactly as you plan to do. This enables you to answer questions like - where will my hands be? Is there any obstruction on the exit side? etc.
John
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bartley got a reaction from MEDDO in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 36: Pin Rails
The port pin rail is now installed. Rails are made from 3/64 strip and 4 mm deep. O.9 mm holes keep the pins reasonably tight:
Starboard still to do and the bow rail will need to be replaced as I drilled the holes too large,
John
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bartley got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Byrnes Table Saw making a 1mm by 1mm strip
Excellent advice, Bob. I would add Rule 4: Rehearse the cut. i.e. without the saw running push the work through exactly as you plan to do. This enables you to answer questions like - where will my hands be? Is there any obstruction on the exit side? etc.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Matrim in Byrnes Table Saw making a 1mm by 1mm strip
Excellent advice, Bob. I would add Rule 4: Rehearse the cut. i.e. without the saw running push the work through exactly as you plan to do. This enables you to answer questions like - where will my hands be? Is there any obstruction on the exit side? etc.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrnes Table Saw making a 1mm by 1mm strip
Excellent advice, Bob. I would add Rule 4: Rehearse the cut. i.e. without the saw running push the work through exactly as you plan to do. This enables you to answer questions like - where will my hands be? Is there any obstruction on the exit side? etc.
John
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bartley got a reaction from RichardG in Byrnes Table Saw making a 1mm by 1mm strip
Excellent advice, Bob. I would add Rule 4: Rehearse the cut. i.e. without the saw running push the work through exactly as you plan to do. This enables you to answer questions like - where will my hands be? Is there any obstruction on the exit side? etc.
John
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bartley got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 36: Pin Rails
The port pin rail is now installed. Rails are made from 3/64 strip and 4 mm deep. O.9 mm holes keep the pins reasonably tight:
Starboard still to do and the bow rail will need to be replaced as I drilled the holes too large,
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtbediz in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 36: Pin Rails
The port pin rail is now installed. Rails are made from 3/64 strip and 4 mm deep. O.9 mm holes keep the pins reasonably tight:
Starboard still to do and the bow rail will need to be replaced as I drilled the holes too large,
John
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bartley got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 35: Installation of the Rudder
I shaped the rudder as described by Chuck in his post. Tapering towards the aft edge and a steep tapper on the front edge. I deviated a little from Chuck's guidelines in the installation of the Pintels and Gudgeons. Chck makes up the center piece with its two straps and then attaches it to the rudder. I found it easier to attach the center piece to the rudder in the correct position and then glue on the straps to the rudder and the center piece. I drilled the bolt holes a little deeper into the rudder and inserted short lengths of 22 gauge wire snipped of close. Again as described by Chuck
I glued the the center gudgeons to the hull in a similar way and then added the strap but I used a length of wire to keep them aligned.
The rudder was then hung at the red painting completed at the top.
John
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bartley got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 35: Installation of the Rudder
I shaped the rudder as described by Chuck in his post. Tapering towards the aft edge and a steep tapper on the front edge. I deviated a little from Chuck's guidelines in the installation of the Pintels and Gudgeons. Chck makes up the center piece with its two straps and then attaches it to the rudder. I found it easier to attach the center piece to the rudder in the correct position and then glue on the straps to the rudder and the center piece. I drilled the bolt holes a little deeper into the rudder and inserted short lengths of 22 gauge wire snipped of close. Again as described by Chuck
I glued the the center gudgeons to the hull in a similar way and then added the strap but I used a length of wire to keep them aligned.
The rudder was then hung at the red painting completed at the top.
John
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bartley got a reaction from JpR62 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 35: Installation of the Rudder
I shaped the rudder as described by Chuck in his post. Tapering towards the aft edge and a steep tapper on the front edge. I deviated a little from Chuck's guidelines in the installation of the Pintels and Gudgeons. Chck makes up the center piece with its two straps and then attaches it to the rudder. I found it easier to attach the center piece to the rudder in the correct position and then glue on the straps to the rudder and the center piece. I drilled the bolt holes a little deeper into the rudder and inserted short lengths of 22 gauge wire snipped of close. Again as described by Chuck
I glued the the center gudgeons to the hull in a similar way and then added the strap but I used a length of wire to keep them aligned.
The rudder was then hung at the red painting completed at the top.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Rustyj in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 35: Installation of the Rudder
I shaped the rudder as described by Chuck in his post. Tapering towards the aft edge and a steep tapper on the front edge. I deviated a little from Chuck's guidelines in the installation of the Pintels and Gudgeons. Chck makes up the center piece with its two straps and then attaches it to the rudder. I found it easier to attach the center piece to the rudder in the correct position and then glue on the straps to the rudder and the center piece. I drilled the bolt holes a little deeper into the rudder and inserted short lengths of 22 gauge wire snipped of close. Again as described by Chuck
I glued the the center gudgeons to the hull in a similar way and then added the strap but I used a length of wire to keep them aligned.
The rudder was then hung at the red painting completed at the top.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Matt D in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 35: Installation of the Rudder
I shaped the rudder as described by Chuck in his post. Tapering towards the aft edge and a steep tapper on the front edge. I deviated a little from Chuck's guidelines in the installation of the Pintels and Gudgeons. Chck makes up the center piece with its two straps and then attaches it to the rudder. I found it easier to attach the center piece to the rudder in the correct position and then glue on the straps to the rudder and the center piece. I drilled the bolt holes a little deeper into the rudder and inserted short lengths of 22 gauge wire snipped of close. Again as described by Chuck
I glued the the center gudgeons to the hull in a similar way and then added the strap but I used a length of wire to keep them aligned.
The rudder was then hung at the red painting completed at the top.
John
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bartley got a reaction from glbarlow in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 35: Installation of the Rudder
I shaped the rudder as described by Chuck in his post. Tapering towards the aft edge and a steep tapper on the front edge. I deviated a little from Chuck's guidelines in the installation of the Pintels and Gudgeons. Chck makes up the center piece with its two straps and then attaches it to the rudder. I found it easier to attach the center piece to the rudder in the correct position and then glue on the straps to the rudder and the center piece. I drilled the bolt holes a little deeper into the rudder and inserted short lengths of 22 gauge wire snipped of close. Again as described by Chuck
I glued the the center gudgeons to the hull in a similar way and then added the strap but I used a length of wire to keep them aligned.
The rudder was then hung at the red painting completed at the top.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 35: Installation of the Rudder
I shaped the rudder as described by Chuck in his post. Tapering towards the aft edge and a steep tapper on the front edge. I deviated a little from Chuck's guidelines in the installation of the Pintels and Gudgeons. Chck makes up the center piece with its two straps and then attaches it to the rudder. I found it easier to attach the center piece to the rudder in the correct position and then glue on the straps to the rudder and the center piece. I drilled the bolt holes a little deeper into the rudder and inserted short lengths of 22 gauge wire snipped of close. Again as described by Chuck
I glued the the center gudgeons to the hull in a similar way and then added the strap but I used a length of wire to keep them aligned.
The rudder was then hung at the red painting completed at the top.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Blackening revisited
See also my post here on the chemistry of this process and its consequences on the practice of blackening
John
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bartley got a reaction from Canute in Blackening revisited
See also my post here on the chemistry of this process and its consequences on the practice of blackening
John
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bartley got a reaction from thibaultron in Blackening revisited
See also my post here on the chemistry of this process and its consequences on the practice of blackening
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Scroll Saw or band saw... help me pick the right one.
This is indeed the issue - double parallel arms. The way to think about this is to consider what you do with your Jeweler's saw or coping saw. You get the best result if you move your saw vertically up and down. This is what a double parallel arm scroll saw does. It has two moving arms - one above the table and one below and the blade is mounted between them. These arms move up and down parallel to each other. The cheaper saws only have one moving arm and the blade fits into a fixed holder below the table. To understand the action of this variation think again of your jeweler's saw. The action is like rocking your saw backwards (away from you) on the upstroke and then rotating it forward on the down stroke. This is clearly not as precise and on the scroll saw tends to produce more vibration. It also produces a bit of undercut but this is not really important as you will cut outside the line and sand it back to the line.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Canute in Scroll Saw or band saw... help me pick the right one.
This is indeed the issue - double parallel arms. The way to think about this is to consider what you do with your Jeweler's saw or coping saw. You get the best result if you move your saw vertically up and down. This is what a double parallel arm scroll saw does. It has two moving arms - one above the table and one below and the blade is mounted between them. These arms move up and down parallel to each other. The cheaper saws only have one moving arm and the blade fits into a fixed holder below the table. To understand the action of this variation think again of your jeweler's saw. The action is like rocking your saw backwards (away from you) on the upstroke and then rotating it forward on the down stroke. This is clearly not as precise and on the scroll saw tends to produce more vibration. It also produces a bit of undercut but this is not really important as you will cut outside the line and sand it back to the line.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Scroll Saw or band saw... help me pick the right one.
This is indeed the issue - double parallel arms. The way to think about this is to consider what you do with your Jeweler's saw or coping saw. You get the best result if you move your saw vertically up and down. This is what a double parallel arm scroll saw does. It has two moving arms - one above the table and one below and the blade is mounted between them. These arms move up and down parallel to each other. The cheaper saws only have one moving arm and the blade fits into a fixed holder below the table. To understand the action of this variation think again of your jeweler's saw. The action is like rocking your saw backwards (away from you) on the upstroke and then rotating it forward on the down stroke. This is clearly not as precise and on the scroll saw tends to produce more vibration. It also produces a bit of undercut but this is not really important as you will cut outside the line and sand it back to the line.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48
Yes, Glenn it would not be a major tool for me either as there are other ways. My saw was a Wen and cost me about A$200. For comparison a parallel arm scroll saw would cost around A$1000 out here. They seem to do a great job but hard to justify unless I was cutting my own bulkheads for example.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48
Glenn,
I will be interested to hear you you go long term with your scroll saw. I used to own one but it was a cheap model. It was OK down to about 1/8 but below that I found it pretty aggressive and difficult to control. This was partly because the lowest speed was quite fast but also because I could not buy fine enough blades to meet the three teeth rule. Maybe I should have persisted but I felt that I could do better with my jeweler's saw (see here) and so I sold it. I have since seen a demonstration at my local woodworking store of a parallel arm scroll saw. It was very smooth had a slowest speed of about 50 strokes per minute. If I bought another I would buy one of these even though they are more expensive.
So I would be interested in your comments.
John
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bartley got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in Golden Hind (ex-Pelican) by Baker - FINISHED - scale 1/45 - Galleon late 16th century
Patrick,
I have only just discovered this great build. Congratulations.
Just to add a little to your history:
The reason that the Pelican was renamed was that Drake's sponsor was Sir Chistopher Hatton whose coat of arms included a golden hind. Hatton's home was Hatton Gardens in London, now the site of the famous diamond dealer and where, in 2016, the largest robbery in British history took place.
John
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