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Ian_Grant

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Everything posted by Ian_Grant

  1. Ian_Grant
    Yes, 1121/1122 clew lines are definitely behind the sail. Leech lines run in front of the sail. Heller doesn't show where the course leech lines go; I would expect them to run through a block beneath the mast top and down to pin rails around the mast foot. Or does SR even have these? I say again that I'm not sure 1117/1118 are the reef tackles; it worries me that I see no labelled line running to the blocks e.g. e147 and e148 used to haul up the heads of the stu'nsls. I would have expected reef tackles to pass through a block near the mast thence down to pin rails near the mast. Then again I've made zero ships from this century.
  2. Ian_Grant
    Blue are your leech lines which gather in the leeches (sides) of the sails when furling. I'm having trouble deciding from the diagram what purple are. I think 1031 are the braces, in which case the purple seem to be the reef tackles hauling the leeches (edges) of the sail up via the blocks attached at the level of the reef band as discussed earlier; or possibly for the stuns'ls in which case I don't see where the reef tackle line goes. Hmmm. The two dotted lines ending at the foot of the mainsail are the bunt lines. The upper sails seem to have no bunt lines probably because they are reduced by lowering their yards, not by being pulled up like the mainsail. I'm surprised the topsail has no reef tackle shown. Leads me to wonder if only the course sails had reefs??? According to Anderson, reef tackle were used on lower sails as an alternative to bonnets from the 13th century to early in the 16th century when they disappeared; reefs appeared in topsails in roughly 1655; topsail reef tackles are first documented in 1675; Anderson would hesitate to show topsail reef tackles before 1670. I can't remember (again) which SR in which year consensus has placed the Heller model. Modeller's initiative on reefs I guess.
  3. Ian_Grant
    Mike, that would be incredible! All I am looking for is any other Klondike drawings they may have; front/rear elevation, midships cross section; deck details, anything really which would help build an accurate model. Thank you very much for taking an interest! Regards, Ian
  4. Ian_Grant
    Addendum: I've just emailed the Parks Canada SS Klondike historic site to ask after any other drawings they may have, which may have been judged not sales-worthy enough to print up for the general public. Fingers crossed! It seems the site may be temporarily closed at the minute. Don't know about the email address.
  5. Ian_Grant
    Our local RC model boat club had their annual auction for the December meeting. It was unbelievable - Spektrum transmitters going for $2, fast electric boats c/w water-cooled brushless motors going for $5........ one chap arrived with sheafs of boat plans, including for the Klondike! I bought that plan. It is a very nicely drawn glossy sheet with her LOA at about 3ft, depicting a detailed side elevation, and hull lines. Unfortunately there is no athwartships view so one can not tell how wide the wheelhouse, say, is compared to the lower hull. Nor are there any details of the paddlewheel etc. But we do have photographs. Drawing is published by Parks Canada and dates from 2001. Maybe PC has another drawing with front view??
  6. Ian_Grant
    Bill, the reef points are used to tie the sail to the yard when reducing sail. Crewmen standing on the foot rope bring the front and rear ends of the reef points up over the yard (after gathering the unwanted sail neatly) and tie them in a - wait for it - reef knot. To help the men pull the sail up with the wind blowing, there are also "reef tackles"; ropes which attach to the leech (side) of the sail at the end of the reef band (horizontal reinforcing strip sewn along where the reef points pierce the sail). Men hauling on these tackles pull the sail up to the yard to let the men on the yard gather it and tie it off. I do not know how multiple reef bands were handled; did the reef tackle just attach to the lowest band? ... did they take in a reef, tie off the reef points, then shift the tackle connection down to the nest lower band (implying they had to take in sail one reef at a time even when wanting to reduce sail drastically?). Might make sense since I expect they would want all the successive rows of reef points tied off. Which begs the question of how, when loosing sail, would the men on the foot rope know which knots in front of them were for which set of reefs? We need a greater mind than mine to answer this.
  7. Ian_Grant
    Bill, those are the bowlines, used to haul the windward side of the sail hard forward when sailing "close to" (as close as a square rigger can get) the wind. They can prevent the sail being taken aback and perhaps damaged if there's a gust from a little more upwind.
  8. Ian_Grant
    Ah, but remember that our -7C is only your 19.4F. 😏
  9. Ian_Grant
    This is another phenomenal build, Glen! Can't wait to see it bottled. We haven't had any days below -7C yet. We did have one big snowfall which allowed two or three glorious days of Nordic skiing in Gatineau Park but recent rain and melt has ruined it again. 😭
  10. Ian_Grant
    God Bill, do you work non-stop? Sails look great!
  11. Ian_Grant
    Thanks Phil! I looked around just earlier tonight. National Maritime Museums Greenwich has a lines plan about 2m long (!). There are also a side elevation and some deck elevations at the Science Museum UK. What they lack is an athwartships elevation showing the deck cabins which appear to be of an unusual design I can't quite make out. Also, Model Boats Dec 2008 issue has a model of the ship, if I can find it. Revell also has/had a kit, but pricey. But first, let's get this galley completed!
  12. Ian_Grant
    I seem to recall some other builder saying you can get hull lines for the Great Eastern but limited info on deck layouts and superstructure.
  13. Ian_Grant
    Hi Vic! Too much! At the start of the hull buiId, I overestimated the weight of the hull and mechanisms and electronics, then designed a full bilge to handle that displacement. It turned out less than estimated so I had to add ballast to make up the difference. I'd have to look back in the log but I think the ballasted weight for correct waterline came to 24-25 lbs. Not easy to carry with all the oars projecting!
  14. Ian_Grant
    Milestone - got a piece of deck glued on! Beforehand, added fixed ballast in the form of lead shot in bilge compartments, covered/mixed with epoxy resin. I put 3/4 of what was needed in the bow in the last water test. Will finalize fixed ballast at the end of the build. Some ballast will be in shiftable packets in bilge compartments in the engine room. The bow ballast is much lower than in the pool tests, where the packets were too big to slip into these spaces and so sat high up. Stability should be better now. Fixed ballast covered in epoxy: Then I added a couple of sticks of wood to form a little cradle for the Arduino, under the shelter of the fixed portion of the foredeck. This fixed part is needed as far back as the bitts for the artemon. That piece of ply on the port side provides solid mounting for the bitts, which will be offset because the artemon passes by the stem on its port side. Then added the foredeck and forward access hatch. Just a flat deck, KISS. I've made the laser files to etch the greatest portion of the deck, 30" long, which covers the engine room but sadly I couldn't get a laser booking before Tuesday. People must be busy making stuff for Christmas. In the meantime I need to make the frame of beams this large deck will be glued to. Oh, I also drew the rudder to 3D print. I will do a first test print in white so as not to waste precious transparent filament. Looking good. The upright stick marks where the mast will be; I'm planning my deck furniture. Made a CAD drawing to 3D print some hatch gratings, and also laser etch files for four walls and a platform for the archery tower which will sit between the boarding gaps and the mast.
  15. Ian_Grant
    Stay sails (stays'ls). They're named by prefacing "stys'l" by the name of the stay they are set on. You could omit them, or have them furled (peaks hauled down by the "downhaul" lines and furled to the foot of the stay. Might look a little odd with no fore topmast stays'l set? Maybe that's ok if the sprit-topsail is set? But I don't know about this century's practice. Builders' preference.
  16. Ian_Grant
    Wow, that's really family-friendly! Ha Ha! I was thinking more along the lines of "ordo, filii canino!". Err, the translator doesn't translate back to the same English from the Latin??!! English "Row, you sons of bit***s" >>>>>> "Ordo, filii canino" >>>>>> "order, the children of the dog". No wonder it is difficult to construe Latin. Glad I never had to take it.
  17. Ian_Grant
    Funny you should mention sound, Vic. Just last night I was at the local RC boat club's annual auction and one of the boats up for grabs had a sound recording of a marine diesel running. Maybe I could have background noise and shouts in Latin. Speaking of the auction, it was ridiculous. Fast electric boats with brushless water-cooled motors and 100A water-cooled ECSs going for - wait for it - two dollars! One chap scored two Spektrum transmitters, one 5 and one 6 channel, for five bucks. I wasn't in the market for anything there except I did buy a plan for the SS Klondike, a stern paddle wheeler that I actually walked around on in Whitehorse this past summer. Might be interesting to build an RC paddle-wheeler although I was thinking about maybe the Great Eastern, ....maybe.....?
  18. Ian_Grant
    Yes, "spectacle iron" rings a bell.....👍
  19. Ian_Grant
    Lots of spare channels in that receiver; you could use them to switch on lights, sound a horn, etc. Maybe we'll see that you did as this epic build unfolds......
  20. Ian_Grant
    In a nutshell: "degrees off wind" is the angle between your course and where the wind is coming from. No one can get to zero. Your diagram is showing the two boat types sailing as close to straight upwind as they can. A square rigger can get to within about 65 degrees of the wind. Fore and aft rigged vessels can get closer (like the yacht in your diagram). If you are shallow draft, like your canoes, and with a rounded bilge, then the hull's innate ability to resist sideways movement is limited. If you're trying to sail, say, 90 degrees off the wind (ie a "broad reach" with the wind from abeam) then the wind blows you not only along the course you want but also downwind to some degree or other. This is leeway. One can compensate by pointing a little closer to the wind and in a perfect world cancel leeway. It's like when you see a small plane on a windy day moving across the sky but not quite in the direction its nose is pointing.
  21. Ian_Grant
    I was trying to get my eyes to "see" the sails as billowing away from the viewer but it doesn't work. The rising/setting sun is somewhere to the right, so given the shadowing on the sails they're billowing towards the viewer. The tell-tale shows the wind coming from somewhere forward. I think the boat is going a point into the wind. I see the guy sitting at the stern but he does not seem to be holding anything, nor is the rudder in the water. Actually no one is doing anything much. Could they have heaved to for a break? There's no wake evident.
  22. Ian_Grant
    Cut 1mm lengths off toothpicks! 😬 Gives a sense of how tiny your boat really is. Great work as always. It does look better with the deck lower down!
  23. Ian_Grant
    Here is the equipment they have available. They have plans to add more. It's great for me as I can walk to that branch in just under 30 minutes. Regarding those kids; they might have been 12 or 13 not 10. It's hard for me to guess now, in relative dotage to them. https://biblioottawalibrary.ca/en/imagine-space
  24. Ian_Grant
    We get it! LOL, was a great series.
  25. Ian_Grant
    The makerspace was opened in collaboration with the US embassy; someone enterprising must have known someone there.

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