Ian_Grant

Totally missed this build until now. Very cool!! Well done!!

What an awful lot of work over the fiberglass disaster! 😬 Nowadays you could use West System epoxy resin which comes with pumps to ensure the correct ratio. And less smell ....

Definitely a Hellerism. Those are the main topgallant braces, led back to the highest practicable point on the mizzen mast. My old instructions have the same error in DIA "Les Voiles Sur Le Mat d'Artimon". Yet those same instructions, on the cover sheet, have the large side view that clearly shows these lines meeting the mizzen topmast just below and just above the crosstrees, above and clear of the sail as you suspected they must be. What I would do is tie them off on the topmast itself above its shrouds (or maybe to the forward crosstree each side??), pass them up and through the main topgallant brace blocks on their pendants, then down through a couple of blocks attached to the rear crosstree each side of the mizzen topmast, and down to wherever on deck. Just my opinion. Interestingly, French for mizzenmast would appear to be "artimon", which is the same word given in my books for the forward-projecting spar at the bow of a Roman galley which can be likened to a bowsprit, sort of.

As you know Bill we in Canada had our Thanksgiving some time ago; hope you enjoy yours!!

Glen, as a precaution please be sure to check out these tropical woods for potential toxicity when sanding! Safety first ..... 🐘 <- (Elmer the safety elephant, who my kids never heard of from school). ps I know a guy who built cabinets from some unusual wood or other, and rubbed sawdust all over his forearms to prevent him sweating on his sanded surfaces. His whole body broke out in hives for several days and he swore he'll never touch that wood species again.

Glen, glad you're back with another unique project. Looking forward to seeing it evolve. And at 1/100 scale this could be your first bottle ship where you could have an actual crew!

She does look even better.......

Bill, I agree that the ratlines look better darker. What did you do to stain them? Reading Kirill's recipe I wonder if it would affect the longevity of the thread as a display?

Looks like a great planking job to me, especially for such a voluptuous hull!

Beautiful work.

Yet another post on 3D eagles. Found a likely-looking one for the bow, with wings spread. I measured in TinkerCAD and his wings are at too narrow an angle compared to the bows, so as an experiment I will try a PLA print at the library; if successful some surgery will be in order to see how he looks mounted. If nice, I can get a resin print later or possibly play around in TinkerCAD to amputate his wings and re-attach at a wider angle.

Interesting looking ship; I also do not think she is ugly. But 30kg!! That's a heavy RC model to lug to water........🏋️‍♀️

Success! Scaled to 3/4" tall, pedestal removed (with a few lingering glitches in his tail feathers) in TinkerCAD. Shall see if Andrew can clench his claws for me, to go around a cross-bar on the stern flagpole. Many thanks to Paul!!

Paul, I did so and here is what was imported into TinkerCAD......HaHa!! I'm guessing this massive model exceeded the z-axis limit in TinkerCAD. Will try scaling it in 3d builder then re-importing.

When I get to the point of needing a crew I'm hoping to visit him for a weekend for a tutorial on using blender to pose figures. I have bookmarked a 3D legionnaire figure who is "fully rigged" meaning he has "bones" which can be moved around to pose him, and his armour/clothing just sort of flows naturally as posed. Would beat amputations and re-gluing.

Thanks Paul. Apologies for wasting your time, but it wasn't from thingiverse after all; I was all over the web looking and I downloaded that eagle from myminifactory. How many 3D model sites are there I wonder? Here's a try at attaching the actual .stl file......Needs to be simplified down to 25M, don't know what it would like by then. Perhaps it would be simplest (for me) if I sent the file to my brother who presumably is familiar with better tools than TinkerCAD which is the extent of my 3D skills. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-jupiter-as-an-eagle-from-the-ganymede-group-a44-278554 thorvaldsen-a44-a-eagle.stl

Bill, you need to decide what ropes go to the kevels. The main braces absolutely do not tie off at the flagpole and should go to a kevel. I believe there is a kevel on each side which Heller leaves unused. Re-assign the kevels in a way that makes sense. Someone else's SR log mentioned this, I forget whose. Good luck Mr. Phelps.

Paul, thanks for the tip! I imported the free eagle to 3d builder, unable to figure out "simplify" in ten minutes playing with the tool and viewing youtube. Will keep trying. Here's an image from 3d builder ..... this eagle, with dais deleted, would be fantastic atop the stern flagpole although I'm not sure how much the detail would hold up at my small printed size.....I saw some eagles with wings spread, now that I know about this tool I will see about getting one of them "simplified" and into TinkerCAD where hopefully I can cut it up for use at the bow. 🤞 Or ask my brother to do it. 😉

Sorry Pat, the crew figures will be "still lives" on-deck in various positions. The "oarsmen" are completely out of sight, and danger from projectiles, in the enclosed hull which is one of the reasons I decided to build this ship as opposed to, say, a viking ship. Articulated oarsmen are beyond my pay grade. 😉

Yeah, I think it would look good. There will be a small eagle atop the flagpole at the stern too. I was looking in Thingiverse for a suitable eagle. Downloaded a free one, but the .STL file was too big for TinkerCAD to open (limited to 25M file size). Will be looking again. Also made a start at 3D CAD drawing for the scorpion artillery, before I realized I don't know how they got tilt and traverse with the bulwark in the way, without the machine getting rather too high up. Will have to think more about it.

Oopsie! My bad - the printer was Halot1 Pro for $169CDN, it is the washer which was $120. Andrew is an animator who worked on Star Wars, Pearl Harbour, The Hulk, and numerous other movies. Looking forward to his help with a crew!

Thanks Kevin. My goal is to sail (row?) her in the local RC boat club's February evening at a local pool. 🙃 Possibly of interest to you, my brother just bought a Creality resin printer, and washing machine, in a "Black Friday" sale (you may never have heard of it; it was an annual fall thing in the States which has spread to here). Just $120CDN for the printer! He says he has my crew in mind for it. 😊

I finally attached the steering platforms after adding most of the exterior trim. Now it's back to the library to laser etch some ply for the fore and stern decks; after adding them I can skin the inside of the fore and stern bulwarks and add the cap rails. I will probably need to add the rudder servo and links before the stern deck decreases access. Pics: Clamping a piece of stern trim. I cheated by cutting the arc from a sheet instead of edge-bending. The bow. The little panels below the (absent) cap rail will be blue with red framing. I left out a couple of forward panels for now; thinking of somehow making or finding a decorative element for there. I drew a little signum in 3dCAD but not sure if it would print, or even if it's appropriate for a ship as opposed to an infantry formation. Maybe a cut-up 3D printed eagle on stempost, with wings extending back into these spaces???? Still pondering. The painted eyes will be in the space at stempost below the trim. Outrigger trim. The little verticals defining sets of three ports were planned originally. The laser etcher could not do the outrigger tops in one long piece; I needed to add a plank to cover the seam so I placed the seam at one of the verticals and added more planks across the outrigger top to match the others. "Make a bug into a feature". Despite what I said earlier I safely cut the trim from wood on my Unisaw by making an auxiliary zero-clearance plate and fence. Port steering platform. They could stand to be 1/4" narrower aesthetically but I figure I need the width to place the rudder shaft outboard enough for the exaggerated oversized rudder to clear the hull, and for the rudder horn to swing. The stern inboard half of the platform will have a shaped block reaching the cap rail level, containing a brass tube for the rudder shaft. This gives me about 2" of "sleeve bearing" for about 6-1/2" of rudder and shaft below the platform. Hoping it won't bind. The horn will be beneath the steering platform deck, concealed from the side by the steering platform's walls which extend below the deck. The stern. There will be one more trim piece, starting at the steering platform at "half bulwark" height and again sweeping up to the cap rail at the sternpost. I must say this part has been fun compared to endlessly tinkering with the oar mechanisms. Still don't know what kind of paint to use. Can't see myself masking and remasking to spray all those little panels, and wales etc. One hobby shop said use whatever paint I like so long as I apply a compatible UV clear-coat on top ......

Nice job so far. Your workbench looks like mine .... 😉

I recall standing at the foot of Cutty Sark's foremast looking up along the mainstay. It was a curve, tight I grant you.