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RGL
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Everything posted by RGL
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The bare bones of the bridge, all the detail will basically be sanded back, and start from scratch adding everything from Flyhawk and a fair bit more. There are are some huge gaps even with a dry fit, but still a lot of room for improvement as Flyhawk leaves a lot of small structural details out that will need to be added or scratch built. Quite enjoying this as most other PE sets are just follow the numbers. Even better, as there are NO decent references I can't be proven wrong!
- 218 replies
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- 12
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Welcome back Cog! The paints are Mr Hobby and Tamiya as they work well in the airbrush. I'm pretty much going to do up all the deck structures first before painting again as the hull painting will take a fair bit of time. The bridge is somewhat complex, and there is so little reference material apart from builds that seem to make a lot of stuff up.
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Welcome back Cog! The paints are Mr Hobby and Tamiya as they work well in the airbrush. I'm pretty much going to do up all the deck structures first before painting again as the hull painting will take a fair bit of time. The bridge is somewhat complex, and there is so little reference material apart from builds that seem to make a lot of stuff up. My plan is to make it as detailed and weathered as possible.
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Just lovely David.
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Now, that was convoluted but finally complete, I just have to add a 60cm spotlight, a pair of binoculars and the basked radar (you can see it lying beside the deck with the two replacement funnels). I replaced the topmost with brass for stability and replaced the join on the crane boom arm and added ladders. This is tiny and one hell of a lot of work for a single mast.
- 218 replies
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- 15
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I spent the day fiddling with the rear mast, which ends up being 3 sticks of plastic where everything else is replaced. I also put some canvas dodgers over the top of the railings. the radar provided by Flyhawk is pretty crappy so I will try the kit provided PE, and should that fail there is a spare from Yamato i just have to fit these PE pieces onto the spaghetti soft plastic
- 218 replies
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- 13
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Now, asaw a 1/00 model of this class of ship and the mysterious blobs spread around the deck are skylights, which are, of course available in incredibly complex and tiny PE, so it's far tidier to place the grilles and hatch covers on 3x2mm strip. I need to have all these features sorted before I lay the 1mm brass bracing stips. All the kit supplied hatches, vents and equipment will be replaced with PE either from the Flyhawk set or other bits and resin pieces.
- 218 replies
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- 11
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Because I need a solid 12 hour stint to paint then use the weathering products, and paying the mortgage precludes that at the moment it's back to piecework. The linoleum decks are meant to be a flat brown, so with some preshading and highlights where the brass strips are required, i e done that but, they still need a coat of flat varnish
- 218 replies
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- 10
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Seriously there was crap all through the airbrush, but I've got some of the flow improver, don't have this problem with any other brand
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The black red added, note to self, I will never use Vajello in my airbrush again, completely gunked up. Matt varnish next.
- 218 replies
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- 11
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Pre shading V1. My plan is to do up the lower hull firs, using a black red between the ribs at the bow and amidships then overspray a Matt varnish, then paint it over those sections with the chipping and wearing products, then paint it properly like I did on my Yamato, then run away in sections to reveal the damaged sections. Hope it works! The decks will will have the brown Lino sections that will be modulated before the brass bracing is added. Looks a mess now now but hopefully there is method to my madness.
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You'd probably find anything from Ebay coming from China won't matter as they generally don't care about rules.
- 151 replies
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- 6
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- duke of york
- tamiya
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Your email spoilt for choice in your part of the world, SE Asia seems to produce a lot of the aftermarket tho and shipping is quick here.
- 151 replies
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- 6
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- duke of york
- tamiya
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Testing out some new stuff on an old hull, chipping and wearing. I'm thinking if I can do a decent sets of ribs on the hull in black and dark rust, a coat of varnish then some of these fluids, I can beat the hull up pretty well. I just have to figure if i complete the hull painting completely then wear it back. This is is a bit severe but I like the effect I also want to try and add barnacles over the top. Let's see.
- 218 replies
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- 14
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Maybe you could follow me after wood and go to plastic Dave? the rigging work is so much easier
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Prop shafts done and the final coat of primer. I cut off the plastic shafts and replaced them with brass rod. The sea sea steps were filed off and replaced, I've always tried to use North Star steps and it's just hard work to trim and place them, but the idea came to me to use railings from PE, bent over my metal ruler which are easier to handle and look better. Now I actually have some panel lines to work with preshading etc will be a lot more 3D than making it up. Before i I get there tho I have to practice some new weathering techniques on a spare hull.
- 218 replies
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- 11
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If you zoom in on the second photo, you can see strange rectangular panels on the hull, which have been suggested as strengthening strikes but I'm not convinced. There are also what appear to be longitudinal scuppers beneath them and little bulbous scuppers just above the waterline. I used offcut PE for the 'strokes' as it is easier to work with and very thin, evergreen strips for scupper pipes and half sanded vents in resin for the waterline scuppers. There is is another layer of primer to go yet before pre shading so it won't be so stark. The hull panel lines were easily cut into the multiple layers of primer. The hull ladder rungs to go.
- 218 replies
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- 15
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After much masking and multiple coats of rattle can primer, I have replicated the hull plates, which I'm actually quite happy with. They are about .1mm higher than each other which should be correct for scale. Most kits have scribed or raised seams which is just not accurate. Now I can scribe the individual plates and add the scuppers and the mysterious bits on the side of the hull before another overall coat of primer. With pre shading to delineate them all I'm hoping it will come up ok in the end before it gets messed up with heavy weathering.
- 218 replies
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- 14
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There are three gun mounts for the high altitude AA guns, the forward mount is the trickiest as the PE is out by about .5mm. The rear mounts are fairly simple and get sandbags. Did they have them? Who knows, I reckon they'd have wanted as much protection as they could by 1945.
- 218 replies
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- 13
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