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RGL

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Everything posted by RGL

  1. RGL
    The stick down wooden deck. Isn’t stick down. First one I’ve come across. The plastic backing will come off, but it is not adhesive and it’s wafer thin. A lot of slicing and inserting glue needed.
  2. RGL
    Dryfit. Now time to go to work to try and make it not look like a toy
  3. RGL
    Grey day. The main burg prices are now done. I want it to dry overnight then I can start filters etc.
  4. RGL
    Now back to the bridge. I only figured out what was changed by 1941 after I finished the bridge. there is a cabin behind the directional finder. I cannot pull the entire thing to pieces, so I've just added a cabin.
  5. RGL
    Main topmast done.
  6. RGL
    I’ve really had too much on at work and home to do much on her. Once I can finish the main top mast I can go back to painting.
  7. RGL
    Careful masking or add the pieces afterwards in part work
  8. RGL
    As much as I hate bashing kits, no one will notice until they do. I joined an Italian warship group on FB and it was correctly pointed out.
  9. RGL
    As you can see, the side range finders are gone as of post 1939, there is a big fuel or water tank underneath and a gantry alongside the funnel. the crew has places life vets on the railings and canvas dodgers (I’m not doing that)
  10. RGL
    It does not look as good but the rangefinders were removed in 1939
  11. RGL
    So, after all that, the range finders on the side were removed in 1939, so a bit more bashing required.
  12. RGL
    Mainmast, part a. Tripods armrest horrible things to build, the housing is added to a bit as there appears to be another cabin added on top by wartime. Top mast next
  13. RGL
    Range finders added to the bridge
  14. RGL
    One word describes the bridge; fiddly
  15. RGL
    I’ve never put enamels through my airbrush either. Weathered the wooden ‘pre chewed’ decks can be problematic as the detail can disappear with washes, maybe just a touch at the start of a plank to age it or pastels. You could always give it a diluted grey over spray to make the teak look weathered / faded
  16. RGL
    If you’re using an airbrush do a diluted grey to fade it a bit. Tripod masts are a killer to get right so you’ve got that bit done just fine.
  17. RGL
    @cog this is one of the few books that actually shows how to rig and deploy them, but because these ships are so complex they can’t show everything, for example they don’t show the rigging for the propeller guards.
  18. RGL
    Everything I read these days is pretty much E-pubs or Audible books. I have bookshelves full of books that are quite obscure and won’t ever go to digital though. I still love my AOTS hardbacks, the reference is invaluable, there is a diagram how to rig and run paravanes for this class
  19. RGL
    I don’t think so but China Attacks might be relevant
  20. RGL
    The hull painted, the wooden deck actually had to be glued down, it would not separate from the plastic. I’ll give it a day to dry then I can do some filters and weathering
  21. RGL
    The weathering bit is fun though and can bring it to life
  22. RGL
    I’ve been lucky enough (if you can call it that) to be able to go in to work and continue as normal. The advantage of living on an island we have only lost 101. anyways, the bow area painted red and white for identification. Step one. A day of dryng the I can start on the Hull, then start the weathering and filtering processes.
  23. RGL
    It’s interesting how there is a few new multi media companies bringing out some great offerings now. Whilst they seem expensive it’s not that bad when you consider how many after after markets are required. With the advent of 3D printing some of the detail just blows my mind and it now is a PE / Printing aftermarket world which just supersedes Resin but the base plastic kits are still pretty damn good.
  24. RGL
    Amidships metal deck, it needs to be quite dark looking at the original photos. One I’ve done the red and white now I can work it a bit more.
  25. RGL
    I’ve never had problems using them (the dry decals, but a coat of matte varnish always helps. The only time I really use varnish is under a chipping coat

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