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ejgray52

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  1. I agree with all the comments so far. I recently finished (for the first time) a wooden boat kit, the 50ft Steam Pinnace (HMS Renown) from Billing Boats. The planking of the hull was a real learning curve and along the way were exercises in working out where things go, how to fit the small details, working with three different materials etc. Plus the usual Billing 'instructions' and plan. I have a couple of their bigger kits which I'd love to have a go at; but even with my experience of model making in other fields I am realistic enough to know I'd be running before I walked with them... Go small and simple and work your way up - there's a reason why those beautiful ready made models are so expensive! The Pinnace, by the way took me ten weeks at a rate of one to two hours a day, sometimes more.
  2. Finished it ( I think...); not 100% accurate, but it has been a good learning experience. Changed the hull colour as it looked a little light, so went for Revell’s Lufthansa Blue. Added a few things, a believable steering system, secured the anchor (Billing’s version would lose it if you threw it overboard...), etc. Quite pleased, but the next build will be better - and I will do a build log as well.
  3. I’ve noticed that many printed decks do not follow prototype ship building rules regarding margin planks/joggling, so maybe they should be planked as a matter of course? I am building Billings H.M.S. Renown’s Pinnace and used it as my first attempt at margin planks etc. (Only to find out the deck was covered in Corticene - I must spend more time on research next time!)
  4. I have this particular kit, made by a government sponsored firm in the 1980’s. All of the parts are there along with the instruction book, however the 4 sheets of plans are missing. Has anyone got a spare copy or can copy them? It appears to be a superb large scale project, but I don’t want to start it without the plans.
  5. Covered up the planking with some good quality white card and gave it a coat of Tamiya 'Hull Red'. Looks a bit dark, may just change it to Brick Red... Found some Humbrol Dark blue (No25) for the hull. The learning curve continues.... In the photo the bulwarks are just placed on the model to see the effect of the colours together; the deck does need another coat and the seating area to finish off.
  6. Thank you Roger. Looking at what few photos I have found, they seem to confirm the Corcetine covered deck. I missed that when deciding how to do the deck and scratched my head for a while as to how I was going to plank it. I decided to abandon the curved planks as used on the restored RN pinnace and went with using a margin plank and joggling the rest. As I lack experience building wooden boats, I found that I had sanded one side of the hull more than the other by a few mm, so the plank layout was asymmetric! At least converting it to Corcetine will eliminate that error... The photos of the real thing I have found online also show the brass strips which I will fit. Colours will be dark blue and white for the hull; as for the funnel, it would appear that two of the photos show Admiral's barges and have light coloured, possibly brass ones and the standard pinnace has a dark, possibly black or dark blue, one. I suspect that the standard one is finished in grey; if the hull was dark blue it would be close in tone the the sailor's uniform, but appears very light. It depends on the type of film that was used (orthochromatic or panchromatic). I remember researching the squadron I was on in the RAF and finding it was difficult to determine the colour of the markings as the colours appear to be reversed depending on which type of film was used. As for the funnel, I think I will go with black. Basically this model is acting as a learning exercise, so may not be 100% accurate, but the lessons I learn will be used in the next build. So far it has been enjoyable building it and solving problems, as well as understanding Billings instructions (not so much what they say, as what they don't say!). It has kept me sane in a house full of family during this lock-down... I hope everything is going well with you and your family in these difficult times. Eric
  7. I am building the Billings 50ft Steam Pinnace, which I am finishing as one from HMS Iron Duke, on which my grandfather served during the 1920’s. Does anyone know what colours it would be painted? Just a normal working boat, not the Admiral’s Barge. There doesn’t seem to be a lot of info on the famous internet...
  8. Congratulations Dan. I have the same 'kit' here, discovered it at the back of my workshop while tidying up.. I started my own thread about this model a week or so ago and decided to complete it as a decoration piece as, (a) buying all the extras to make it accurate would be better invested in buying a decent kit of the Victory and (b) it will good practice for me in planking etc. (Currently working on Billings Steam Pinnace and my first efforts required filler!). My mother-in-law gave me the subscription to the Victory back in the early 2000's as a Christmas present; she past away a few years ago and I feel I should finish it in her memory. My father-in-law was a Navy man, so anything nautical was close to her heart. I know what you mean about the instructions, my favourite being. '...look exactly as it did when Nelson was the captain: blue and yellow above the plimsol line...' Wow, three errors in one sentence! the original blurb tells us the model was created by 'expert naval historians and model makers'... really? I too am impressed by the original builder getting as far as he did; well done for honouring his memory with your work.
  9. Now there is an idea, many thanks Gregory. Pity about the glossy cardboard they used for the windows and cabins by the ship’s wheel! Though I could reproduce them in wood to match the idea of folk art...
  10. Many thanks for the replies. My M in L is no longer with us, so it would be my mantelpiece, though I will alter a few things. I did plank a couple of the false decks in the correct 4 butt style, instead of the ‘house-brick’ pattern they suggest. I will add the yards to the masts in the proper manner; as they tell you to nail them! Bad enough that the masts are depicted as straight forward lengths of dowel... I feel an order for wood will be happening soon. First job though is interpreting the instructions, which are a bit more informative than the average. Billings version and much funnier! (Embrasures over the portholes and being careful cutting the strakes around them, plus the stern being at the bow, for example...)
  11. With the current lockdown here in the UK, I have had the opportunity to sort out the workshop and came across a cardboard box, long forgotten. It turned out to contain a part-work kit from the early 2000's of HMS Victory. I remember at the time it boasted of being researched and created by a team of expert naval historians and model makers. My mother-in-law had bought a subscription for me as a Christmas present and I built it up to the 'carcass' stage before a house move and a general feeling of disappointment overtook me! I predominately built in plastic and occasionally metal, so I am still honing my wooden boat building skills. The kit is made from reasonable wood considering it's a magazine style part-work, but the fittings and instructions are interesting... (in the English ironic use of the word!). A lot of the fittings are cast from an antique style metal, which is described as 'highly detailed, authentic and require no painting or varnishing' and the colour scheme shows the 'experts' must have glanced at a lurid coloured postcard of the real thing! Check out the photos below, which show just a few of the details. I am pondering whether to continue with the build or not, as it will require a lot of work and extra expense; maybe just be grateful for all the extra wood to put in my spares box. It has a nice stand though. To be fair, I think they were working with English as a second language...
  12. Forgot to say, I’m on the Isle of Wight, UK...
  13. Hello, I’ve made a lot of plastic models in my time and in the last few years have also returned to to model railways. During my time working in the Middle East I tried my hand at wooden boats. For all the reasons that newbies fail, I acheived a couple of results, both from Billings kits - a completed hull and one with a little beyond bulkheads on the keel and some bad planking. From the store where I found these, came several other Billings kits; although a little more expensive than back in the UK, the fittings were included free. They sit in my workshop to this day like Sirens tempting me onto the rocks... After rekindling my interest by exploring this site, I chose the 50 ft Steam Pinnace from my stash and started with some research. My attempt at planking was experimental and ok - nothing that some filler, sanding and some coats of primer has addressed; it looks pretty good! You never know, I may be brave enough to put a build log on here with the next one!
  14. Having read through this build so far, I feel inspired to dig out my own part built B E. I started it many, many years ago when working in the Middle East; up to then I had been building plastic kits and approached it in the same vein... How wrong I was! Now older and wiser, (maybe...), I will have another attempt. I hear IPA is good for unsticking PVA joints, so it will be unglueing and doing it a little more carefully this time. There is still the Billings Steam Pinnace to finish - the hull is done, just figuring out how to plank the deck; on the real thing the planks were curved following the line of the bulwarks.... Thanks for providing some inspiration and solutions to short decks etc. looking forward to to seeing the finished boat.
  15. I have made models most of my life, but rarely wooden boats and I am currently building Billings 50ft Steam Pinnace, ( sold as as HMS Renown). After doing some research I have found that the deck is planked in a different manner to the kit's plans. I realise that the kit's way of doing things is not an accurate one, so I want to follow real practice. As seen in the photo, the planks curve away from a king plank following the line of the bulwarks. My question is, what is the best way of doing it? I am guessing, lay the king plank, then starting at the outside, steam and pin the other planks. Any advice would be gratefully received by this 'newbie'!

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