bruce d

It is time to start again. I looked closely and dispassionately at the hull assembly of Mediator and the quality and accuracy I wanted just weren’t present. The bulk of the problems are down to my choices of materials, such as old cheap ply frames crumbling when fairing was attempted. So, it was time to start over. Let’s call it Mediator 2.0.

Using good quality 5mm birch ply I made all new frame sections and formers. The process was basically identical to the first attempt so I will skim through the bulk of the steps and highlight the few differences.

The main hull former was, as before, made on the bandsaw by using an A4 plan stuck to the plywood with good quality spray temporary adhesive. I did the aft section first and due to the limited throat size of my bandsaw, then flipped it over and used a reversed copy for the fore-part of the former. A light shining through the already cut-out section made alignment easy.

The former with all slots cut (except for piece #14, see later) and waterline marked. 

First difference: I added a rabbet to the main hull former. This is not indicated on the plans (there are no instructions as such) and the small difference in width between the former material and the keel-pieces did give a lip that may have been adequate for much of the planking, but I feel the addition of a ‘proper’ rabbet can only help.

The rabbet lines up with the bottom of the dry-fitted frame.

This was the first time I had used the Stanley swiveling vice properly and it was very useful, glad I got it (thanks to another user on MSW). The scraping tool is an Artisania Latina scraper, did a first rate job. First passes were with the 3.5mm x 5mm profile then I carried on with the 5.5 x 5mm profile for another mm or so.

The previously made stempiece and forward area of the keel piece were fettled before the frames/bulkheads go in place.

9 hours ago, the learner said:

Back home but still hopping around on one leg. Stump is completely healed waiting for prosthesis fitting and getting back to normal. On another note I have downloaded the mediator plans and look foward to following the rest of your build. 

Guy

Guy, glad to hear of the progress and glad to have you back aboard. The plans are pretty good, but I have a suggestion or two which will be in upcoming posts. Nothing big or sinister, just a couple of things that may be worth considering.

7 hours ago, BANYAN said:

A very interesting discussion of your progress, trials and tribulations and it seems you have conquered all.  Looking forward to your updates.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Hello Pat, thanks for the encouragement. Re-reading my earlier posts, I did moan a lot, forgot to say I was enjoying it.

Lessons have been learned, it's time for an update ... watch this spot!

Hello Jason and welcome to MSW from the UK.

Bruce

Can't help with with the hades-like top temperature but a cheapish fix for the lower end is to use electric underfloor heating. It doesn't have to be permanently installed, it can be laid on insulation and covered with cheap engineered flooring. Set it to kick in at 7 or 8 degrees (or whatever) and if the rest of the shed is insulated you can avoid the worst of the problems arising from freezing glues etc. as well as keeping the workshop usable.

If you don't aim to keep the place toasty warm, just usable, it works. 

Hello John and a warm welcome to MSW from Sussex.

As you have already seen, people are willing to help so ... my advice .. get started and ask questions! 

Looking forward to seeing your log of a true working boat.

Regards,

Bruce

Going cold turkey was tough. Many thanks to all the admin for seeing it through.

 💎

1 hour ago, Gregory said:

I really like the cradle!😁

 

( Seriously, it's a good idea that didn't occur to me before...}

Same here. I installed one immediately on my Mediator.

Thanks Dave. 

15 minutes ago, Frank NIchols said:

My name is Frank and I hope to be a modelholic.

Welcome Frank. Follow the steps and you will get through this. 😉

Many people here followed a similar path to the hobby and there are no rules saying that you can't have other interests as well (check out the 'shore leave' subforum) so pull up a chair and start your journey. 

Your point about 'the journey' strikes a chord with me, perhaps others as well, since despite my expectations I have focused on research since retirement instead of actual model making. See where it goes, the idea is to enjoy it. 

Regards, Bruce 

Hello Kurt,

The Bohler saw, also sold under the Minitool and Kaleas names, has 6mm slots.

Bruce

Good luck with the doc.

Gunports look like scary stuff!

The cutter is amazing. Take care of yourself and your wife.

Hello Phil,

May I suggest you let us know where you are based?

Regards,

Bruce

Status of the History of the Lost Franklin Expedition of 1845 by Dr. M. John Roobol, Retired Geologist

Status_of_the_History_of_the_Lost_Frankl.pdf

1 hour ago, Srenner said:

Still looking for some light wood to make the rail instead of the mahogany supplied. Could you use basswood and a stain but the colour is still very light. 

For that relatively small job perhaps coffee stirring sticks would work. 

I like what you have done, will be watching. 👍

54 minutes ago, tkay11 said:

This may be a stupid addition to the discussion, but it is noticeable that the warp is to the laser-cut side. Would there be a possibility that the extensive small longitudinal grooving caused by the laser cut creates a weakness that would tend to bend the wood that way, in addition to any natural tendency?

Tony, I don't think that is stupid at all. Any internal stresses will naturally seek relief if one surface is weakened. 

11 hours ago, KeithAug said:

Nils -  I bought a Canon TS8050 several years ago and found it to be quite temperamental, possibly due to my incompetence. I hope you have more success. 

So it is not just me. It took some time before getting used to my Prixma but eventually I became comfortable. I found when doing artwork always adjust the print settings to the highest quality output, the Prixma does a good job on that setting. 

The sails look great!

Best wishes, take care of yourself.

Hello Rich and welcome to MSW. I look forward to seeing what happens next and hope you will make use of the experience available here to get you set up.

BTW, IMHO Roswell is a lovely place. 

Bruce

Well done!

From the Manx Museum. The modeler is making a local type of boat for exhibition. Seeing this makes me feel like all my tools are under-used.

Note the use of an upended bench to support the end of the model.

Hello Dennis,

I was told it was because the Latin numerals were easier to recognise from different angles and over greater distances.

This is not official but it is the answer I was given when I asked the same question forty years ago!

HTH

ruce

Mark, Timberline is certainly worth a call:

Exotic Hard Woods | Catalogues 2021 | Specialist Woods, Veneers, Tonewoods, Marquetry, Sundries, Tools

01732 355626, not everything is in the catalogue.

My go-to guys.

Mark, I have no idea why sometimes wood/plywood just decides all on it's own to develop a wriggle. It seems to be more common in thinner pieces. See my Mediator log for my own version of this aggravation. 

However, i have seen wood develop dark spots after bits of swarf from filling ferrous metals was allowed to rest on the surface long enough to begin oxidizing. After the process began it continued despite the rusting iron having been removed. Hope this isn't the problem because as far as I know there is no cure. 

I like what you are doing, will keep watching. 

spartorpedoinstr00unit.pdf

Investigations_of_a_Nineteenth_Century_S.pdf