Tigersteve

Alright guys, finally getting started. Going to be slow at first as I need wrap up the Connie but I’ll start making progress soon.
JJ
 

After several days of sanding, numerous sheets of sand paper and sanding sticks later the hull is roughly faired.
I estimate I have 12-15 hours of sanding and more than a few Aleve tablets into the hull so far.
After the port framing is completed more fairing will be needed.
 

 

 

 

 
Here I've started to place the port framing. I would cut and fit several at a time and then leave them next to the former
until I glued them in place. This way I could make several at a time and then glue several in place.
This method helps me not mix them up and keep them in the correct order.
I'll work to the bow and then to the stern. No real reason why just the way I'm doing it.
 

Rigging was completed with all rope coils etc... Windlass was wrapped and grapnel installed.
Not going to install any oars or windlass bars.
I tore the tissue flag as I was taking it out of its baggie, hopefully Chuck will be able to supply me with another, otherwise this project is complete and in its case.
Thanks again to Chuck for designing and supplying this awesome kit.
Back to the Pegasus build and maybe line up something else too.
 
ben
 
 

Just a photo  - quarterdeck armament taking shape...

Started to rig the bowsprit. The bobstay and the bowsprit shrouds were served via the serv-o-matic. Took some time til I got them done. Also installed the footropes, wil bring them to shape later. 

Gaff and boom installed. For the footrope I made a template with similar distances for the knots and made an eyesplice to each end. All blocks on the boom are prepared also. 

Today works...

Thanks
 
Its no different than working with basswood in my opinion.  Except it looks better and holds a sharp edge.  You just need to be careful.  If you are a rough builder then you will get some scuffs....but if you can lighten your touch then you wont have any problems.
 
 

Hi All,
 
I've assembled the stem, keel and bulkheads. Now you're probably wondering where the pictures of the assembled stem is.
Well that makes two of us. Somewhere in cyber space I would assume. Seeing that the stem and keel are now covered with
blue painters tape I can't take another picture. Sorry we'll just have to wait until the hull has been faired.
 
Limbering up the shoulders and hands for the numerous hours of sanding.  
 

 
 

A milestone today....I finished the planking on the port side.   That feels good!!!
 
I still have 9 strakes on the starboard to go.  I am happy with the results although as always you always tend to spot and focus on your mistakes.  I am very happy with how the cedar looks on such a large subject.  I will let you guys decide if you like it as a good wood to use on such projects.
 
I have only used wipe on poly...I decided not to use the gel stain after seeing how the finish looks.  The wales are a mess and will need to be cleaned up but I will wait until all of the planking is done.  I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel...BUT then there is the treenailing.....Ughh!!
 
Comments and questions , dont hesitate. 😊
 

With summer at an end work has begun on the Benjamin W. Latham kit. 
 
 
With the large 1:48 scale I hope to add a nice bit of super-detailing, and I'm especially intrigued by the seine boat, a whole separate model unto self. Fittings are decent, though I may end up replacing some with scratch-built items. Plans are very nicely done other than the rigging sheet. 
 
I haven't done a ton of soldering on past kits, but that will certainly change on this build with all of the ironwork. 
 
The keel is a sandwich of two thicknesses of laser cut parts, and mine was just slightly warped. You can see below the eclectic collections of weights that happened to be nearby in my laundry room to help hold it down after wetting and clamping... It came out nice and straight. 
 

 
Rabbet was cut and reference lines were drawn on keel former and bulkhead as per the plans. First dry fitted and then subsequently glued in place. The bevels are on the plans and I did a large amount of pre-beveling with the Dremel and a sanding drum attachment before installation as the plywood bulkhead are very hard. Less prone to damage this way. 
 

 



 
 
 
 

Bedroom´s bulkheads in lower hold.

After small corrections...

The planking step continues. Two additional rows were made.



Only 3 rows

The last days I started building the stern. I found it quite challenging to get it all in the right place. It is good, that there are several laser cut pieces, so you can take a new one, if one is sanded down too much. 

Progress continues,
 
The former has been cut out and the rabbet strip attached.
 

 
Next is to cut out and assemble the stem knee assembly and keel.
 
Here are the parts laid out on swiss pear.

 
Here is the  stem knee cut out and ready for fitting all of the pieces together.
 

 
The fun is just beginning!!!!!
 
 

Finished carving and mounting some unpainted cleats. Starting at the stern is the cleat on the Cuddy Board. Next to the Cuddy Board are the Standing Cleats with another cleat above each. Near the stem are the Preventer Cleats. 
 
Stern

Stem

Thanks.....
 
No questions means that planking is going to be a piece of cake for folks....LOL.   Seriously though guys...any questions or comments on how the planking up to this point?   You guys are awfully quiet on the subject.  Slow and steady is the best advice I can you guys.
 
Chuck
 
 

Planking continues....it is important for me to go slow and take care to make this a neat planking job.  The planked hull is so visually important because of the size of this model that I am being very deliberate with each plank added.  I am planking with the hull upside down and although the strakes look very good when viewed upside down, after I finish each strake I will flip the hull over so I can view it right side up.  The run of the planks will look very different and this allows me the opportunity to make adjustments with the next strake if needed.  
 
I want a nice slope up of the planks at the stern.....but also at the lower bow.   So even though I am following my tick marks very closely....I am still making adjustments when I see a dip or bump in the run develop.
 
Remember that there are NO stealers at the stern.  There is only that one drop plank at the bow.  With these lower belts, you can run the planks off the stern post rabbet and then sand them back flush.  We will add the stern post when planking is completed.
 
Note the front of the garboard and its shape along with where it ends in relation to the scarf joint on the keel.  It is not too far forward and its not too far aft.  The end is about 1/16" forward of that joint on the keel.
 

 
At the stern, the strakes were sanded flush to the rabbet.....and note the gentle slope upward being created.   I only have six more strakes left on this side and you can see how I am following my lining out.   You can see the remaining tick marks and picture the run of the remaining planking.  At the stern on this lower belt, you must switch to wider 5/16" planks and shape them according to your tick marks.   The planks along the stern post do get wider as one would expect.
 

Let me know if you have any questions !!!!  Comments are welcomed.   No stealers at the stern which matches the contemporary model and will look very distracting.  There is absolutely no need to use them.

After messaging Chuck, I adjusted the planking band as there was too much taper. I took a different approach and marked ten planks on most bulkheads and adjusted the tape to a smooth curve. Chuck suggested adding a drop plank, which will result in one less plank terminating at the bow. I will follow this plan and also add a stealer at the stern.
 
Although below the whales will be painted, I wanted to use this project to improve my planking technique. 
Steve

Hi, 
I meant this picture of the deck....
Nils

I have turned the spars using an electric drill and sandpaper, and I think they have turned out decently. I actually broke one, and had to fix it. Can you spot the repair? 
I've also begun rigging the cannons, which I'm doing off of the model before fixing them on. 

Until next time,

After messaging Chuck, I adjusted the planking band as there was too much taper. I took a different approach and marked ten planks on most bulkheads and adjusted the tape to a smooth curve. Chuck suggested adding a drop plank, which will result in one less plank terminating at the bow. I will follow this plan and also add a stealer at the stern.
 
Although below the whales will be painted, I wanted to use this project to improve my planking technique. 
Steve

Determining the planking belts. Tick strips were used to determine and mark the halfway point of the remaining area to be planked. This was done from bulkhead D through 4B. Adjustments were made based off these measurements. 
 
I could use our experts feedback on the lines of these belts especially at the bow. 
Steve

After messaging Chuck, I adjusted the planking band as there was too much taper. I took a different approach and marked ten planks on most bulkheads and adjusted the tape to a smooth curve. Chuck suggested adding a drop plank, which will result in one less plank terminating at the bow. I will follow this plan and also add a stealer at the stern.
 
Although below the whales will be painted, I wanted to use this project to improve my planking technique. 
Steve