RussR

John's YouTube Channel is like a complete video tutorial on model building. He is currently building the Occre Montanes

I was just on Model Space's web site USA and it appears that they are out of stock on most of there ship models. And after reading one of our members (RickyGene) experiences receiving his subs I think I would want the whole kit before I started a build.

These sails are typical of the kit supplied sails. Compare these to the panel sails that Cathead makes for his models described here: Or the paper sails made by rwiederrich in this thread: You have done a great job and spent a lot of time on your model, don't short change it with these crappy kit supplied sails. Of course the choice is yours. RussR

Here is the update that I promised. In this shot I am framing the deck. Lego blocks help keep things square. Adding some more framing. And preparing to build the deck grating and install the deck planking. Here I added some wood to fill in some of the gaps between the deck and hull. This shot only shows one of the spots filled. Putting together some of the deck grating. There wasn't enough but I managed to piece the scrapes to make do. The instructions have you to cut the 10mm X 3mm material in sections to make the cap rail. As other builder of this model I traced the outline of the hull on some basswood sheet and cut it out on my Dremel Scroll saw will I was waiting on some glue to set. I'll coat the basswood with sanding sealer and stain it. If I am not happy with the result I will have to paint it. This is the deck framing, deck grating, deck planking and the two doors the plans call for. Putting the different deck parts together. Here I made a gauge to get the stringers location. Used the same gauge with a piece of the thwart material to check the gun carriage placement. Drilling the ribs and stringers with a 0.6mm drill for the brass nail placement. I had to cut the nails to less than 4mm to prevent them coming through the hull. I used these tweezers that has a locking mechanism because I kept dropping them. I pushed the shortened nails in with some long nosed pliers with a couple of rubber bands rapped around one side to protect the side of the hull. Next is some random shots of where I am in the build. That is it for this week. I'll do another update next friday. Until then don't let the Covid Monster get you. RussR

Thanks, I'll have to check them out. RussR

That would be great but: my Proxxon has a 10mm arbor. The Byrens adaptor is 0.625" to 1" (15.875mm to 25.4mm). Thanks for the suggestion. RussR

I have a Proxxon FKS/E saw (with 10mm arbor) with several carbide tipped blades like the third one pictured. The problem with these blades is if you are cutting 1.5mm planks, over half of your material is going to end up in your vacuum cleaner. What blade does everyone recommend for cutting planks? RussR

What has already been said. Plus you can clamp a straight edge down on top of the plank so it won't move. Then cut along the edge. RussR

I have looked online for a historical reference for this boat and I have found nothing. Is there a publication, a link or anything? RussR My plan is to provide an update to my log every Friday until complete.

I have something similar and never use it. Because of space limitation I thing you would be better off getting something like this https://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-37006-115-Bench-Circular/dp/B0017TO806 . Living in the UK you may need the KS 230. One operates on 115volts and the other on 230volts. But if you don't have space for a Byrnes or a Proxxon FET the KS 115 is a good choice. I have a Proxxon FKS/E and a Proxxon KS 115 and I still use the KS 115 because it is so handy. The Proxxon FKS/E takes up more room. RussR

My plan is to attempt to duplicate the paint scheme on the box. I have put a couple of coats of Minwax Prestain and a couple of coats of Natural Wood Stain and a coat of Wipe On Polly on the exposed wood to view. To my dismay I find that the instructions doesn't spell out where part of the planking extends. (see photo) I think I can cover this with the painted strip and a rib on the inside. I could have just replace the 12 planks (the hull is triple planked). I may still do that. Also I had to improvise to make the 5mm X 0.5mm planking cover the after deck. Bow shot after staining. I had to cut some 0.5mm walnut planking with my newly bought Proxxon Saw. (I need more practice cutting planks) But I got enough cut to do the job. With a little sanding I think it will be alright. This is some 2mm X 3mm walnut that had to be bent for part of the deck. I drew the shape that I need on some wood and nailed on the edges then soaked the wood in water. Then I used a 25watt sodering iron via lamp dimmer to control the temp. If you don't control the temp. you will scorch the wood. That's it for this time. RussR

Bring it on. I am sure most of us would like to see it. Any subject nautical is welcome here. RussR

I just recently bought a Proxxon DB250 and can see the issue with the short tool rest. Nor do I see a simple fix. But for the price I think I can work around it. I could probably solve this problem by buying a Sherline for over a $1000.00 dollars. I'll keep cost benefit in mind. Enjoy your new lathe, I am sure I will enjoy mine. RussR

Richard, I have looked at your build. It is very nice. I think yours and two others has completed this model on MSW that I have drawn inspiration from. RussR

I bought this new on Ebay a couple of weeks ago for a very good price. This is my 5th model. 1. Model Expo 18 Century Long Boat, 2. AL 1805 Swift Boat (that I completely screwed up), 3. AL Hermione, 4. Model Expo Chaperon. It is always disappointing to see a new log that gets abandoned. I hope this doesn't happen here. Since I have finished five models before, I don't think this will happen. Also, I would like to keep the log clean meaning not a lot of "back patting". I don't need the gratification. A simple "Like" is good enough. If you have helpful suggestions or constructive criticism, I want to hear it. Box that it came in. I finished the final layer of planks and I lay bare my planking sins at the altar of Model Ship World. ☺️ Before sanding and filling. I would've liked to not have to paint it but I fear that I got sloppy with the CA. I can get a little bit of CA on my fingers and the next thing I know it is on the bare wood.☹️ That's it for now. RussR

If you ask a dozen people you will get a dozen different opinions. Build what interest you. If you live in the US you can't go wrong with one of the lower priced Model Expo Models. Because if you screw up a part or lose something it is easy to get replacements. Ask me how I know (I've done it). RussR

Some lucky buyer got a hell of a deal. The shipping alone would cost at least half of the sale price of $29.95.

I just had an offer from a seller on eBay for a new Model Shipways Schooner Sultana for $29.95 including shipping. I am reasonably sure if you contacted the seller you could get the same deal. I would buy it if I didn't have more that I could build in my life time. Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-Shipways-1-64-1767-Colonial-Schooner-SULTANA-Wooden-Model-Ship-Kit-1988/124223232064?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 RussR

As Kurt said in a post above. All I did was glue the decks together with pva and after it dried I filled it with Minwax filler. Then etch the lines back with a scribe and a straight edge. I figured that after I got the rest of the structure in, one wouldn't be able to see any flaws if any (which there wasn't). Also I didn't spend a lot of time on stuff that wasn't very visible like the boiler and pilot house interior. RussR Brian, outstanding build by the way. 👍

On the right above USA Air Brush Supply and below Sherline Products. There is a link that says "Ship Kit DataBase". I am using Google Chrome and the link just runs and never opens. I am good with it. Kevin sent me a link that provided me with what I was looking for. Kevin also sent me this link to the original MSW thread. It doesn't look like it is available anymore. RussR

I am using Google Chrome. The Database link on the right side of the Homepage is dead. The link that Kevin found for me on the net works fine. Just use this link instead. https://suburbanshipmodeler.com/model-ship-kit-database/ All is good now.

Thanks for your effort. The link that you provided is a help. https://suburbanshipmodeler.com/model-ship-kit-database/

I have found the log listings but at one time there was a database for kit manufactures that had the scale, period, length height width and so forth. I guess it is gone now. It is the link on the right side of the homepage. And I haven't found it in the "Articles Database" as Mark suggest. If it is gone it's gone. But that was as handy as a "shirt on a pocket". 😀

Does anyone know if the Ship Kit Database will be back, or is it gone for good. I haven't been able to find it in the "Articles Database"? And the link on the right side of the homepage appears to be a dead link. RussR

I am sorry looks like my photo got all jumbled up My Chaperon is finished. The following is the photos that I took along the way. I will try not to post any duplicates. 1st a few of the typical boring stuff. Later I had to remove the keel and redo it because I bent it edge wise instead of the proper way. Since I didn't add lights I didn't detail the boiler as some have done. The infamous finger joint. I just filled it and re-etched it in. The paint was Anita's All Purpose Acrylic....Red Rust that I bought at Hobby Lobby. Nothing innovative in the next photo...I just followed the instructions. The boiler deck was uneventful. I added some scrape wood along the scribed lines to line everything up. And also added 90 deg. blocks to keep the walls plumb. Another shot of the same A shot of the barely visible boiler Shot of the Sky Light an gluing battons on the Texas. Made a ships wheel out of cotton bud sticks and cardboard. 1st one was to small and the 2nd one was to large. Now I wish that I hadn't spent the time doing it because one can't even see it in the Pilot House. Also made a stove from a barrel left over from something else. In the end it isn't visible anyway. Leggo blocks was used to keep the paddle wheel lined up. Another shot of the paddle wheel assembly. Later I found out that the shaft was to short. So I had to pin a short piece on both ends to make it work. Here shows the bull rails installed. Also like to mention the neat CA Glue Applicator. It is the best I have used. I have even forgot and it set overnight and it still wasn't clogged the next day. If it dose clog up all you have to do is just clip a piece of the end and your good as new. Then when it gets to short, pull it off and stick on another one. Another good thing about it is you can control where the glue goes. And you don't get glue all over the place. Also you don't waste glue.😀 Another shot of the bull rails. Also some of the railings and decorations. Here I am fabricating the Stag per the plans, no problems. Paddle Wheel and Supports. Also some more Railings and Decorations installed. Wow! What a mess. ..I used Lego Blocks to keep the stacks plumb until the glue set. From here on is the finished model on a 1 by with some molding around the edges. I used some 3/8" square basswood. Then I beat'm up with a meat tenderizer to rough them up And stained with diluted india ink. Then I knocked off the sharp corners with a course rasp then stained the whole thing with Golden Oak (I think). Then a coat of wipe on polly. The surface was covered with Medium Ballast That's All Folks Now on to the next project, what ever that is. My goal is to finish what ever I start. I have studied many many logs which are a great help. I bought Kurtvd19's CD which helped a lot Thanks to all. RussS I sorry, looks like my photos got all jumbled up.