Tim Curtis

Deck Beams
 
Like the hull, the construction of the deck of this model is very much in keeping with plank-on-frame.  The kit calls for making a bunch of deck beams that run across the width of the hull, with the planking then placed on top of the beams.  In a detail that I suspect will be almost imperceptible on the finished model, the deck is crowned so that the centerline is about an eighth of an inch higher than the edges.
 
To accomplish this, you first glue edge-to-edge 5 pieces of quarter inch thick basswood, to give a block that is 5.5 inches wide, 10 inches long, and a quarter inch thick.  Then using planes, rasps, files, and sandpaper and such, you create the crown on this larger block.  Finally, you cut 1/8th inch strips across that block to create the deck beams.
 
Pictures of this process are shown below.  To help, I created a special sanding block that also had the shape of the crown, to try to get the curve consistent along the block of wood and from side to side.  I also drew a couple reference marks on the block that may help later in construction.
 
The initial 10x5.5x1/4 block and some tools...

 
Initial crown on one side
Both sides crowned
Special sanding block

Block with a few beams cut from it.  Clearly I'll need to clean these up a bit with some sandpaper.

I suspect that my block may not have quite as much of a crown as intended, but I guess I got tired of shaping it and anxious to cut the beams.  Either way, like I said, I don't think this feature will really be noticeable on the finished model.  The booklet calls for cutting about 40 beams....I have 15 cut now.  I am using a scroll saw with a guide fence, which is probably not optimal, but is what I have available.
 

Work on the head is now complete. It was the pain that it always seems to be, but there is also a sense of accomplishment. At he risk of boring you all, I will go through it on a step by step basis, with photos of each successive phase.
 
I began with the cheeks. These were each done as laminations of two pieces cut from thin boxwood sheet, then sanded on their facing edges before being glued together and then final fitted to the hull. Card templates were used to get the initial shape.
 
Once the cheeks were in place, I made up the main rails. These too are made as laminations from thicker boxwood sheet, using card templates. After lamination, each rail was sanded to their tapered shape. The timber head shape was then filed into the upper end. The rails were then final fitted to the hull and glued into place.
 
 At this point, I chose to make and add the upper molding and then the knight heads and timber heads at the bow. These were filed to shape from two sizes of boxwood strip, painted black and then pinned and glued in place.
 
Next were the head timbers, which were made from boxwood strip and fitted,, with what seemed like endless trial and error, until they fit between the main rails and the cheeks.
 
The next, and possibly the most difficult, task was to do the cathead supports and the lower rails .These were done in segments. The first segment was the lower rail, which was made from boxwood strip bent to shape and fitted between the stem and the hull and glued in place to the head timbers. Then came the most difficult piece in the process, the cathead supports. These were first cut from thick boxwood sheet, using card templates, and then filed and sand to shape. This was a task, since they had to fit the hull contours, as well as the angles of the catheads and match up to the position, size and shape of the lower rails. I found it necessary to use very small filler pieces of strip to mate the two segments.
 
I the added the final pieces of the lower hull molding at the bow and between the fore channels and the cathead supports.
 
The last item was to paint the 3D printed resin figurehead from the kit and glue it into place.
 
Bob

Did a little more ....

Another photo
 

 

 

 

Hello Michael and Thomas,
many thanks for your friendly comments.
Enclosed two photos of the model ship with the provisional installed masts.

The rear frames are mounted.
Karl 
 
 PART  3

Good evening for everyone, the work goes on with the assembly of the last parts, and because the deck lamps did not like the ones I came out with, I will rebuild them.
All the best .

Adrian,

Hello,
 
finaly glued last planks on quarter deck and began sanding:
 

 

 

 
Alex

Well its been some time so here another update.
The STB side of the hull planking beneath the first whale has been closed. As said earlier, its a tedious work but I am very happy!!
It really starts to look like a ship :).
 
I put the present state into the sun to get some non-TL light pictures. It gives a whole other dimension.

 

During the planking I started to doubt if I should not leave the port side as it is so you could see how it was build, but I decided against it. I did not like the view. So I am up for another tedious part of weeks planking....
This shows while still hanging upside down but just finished.

I am happy with the looks of the bow. This picture is from before the first sanding.

Also the aft looks good, some points needs some work but overal its satisfying. (and for the sharp eyes, yes I am going to redo the rudder, I already stripped it partly. I did the rudder much too early as I now find out. Same with the bow. In the planking you still damage the keel and the bow. But I already have an idea how I can rework them later.....

 

 
So it will be for quite some time before you will hear from me again. as there are some holidays on its way and I doubt if I can finish port side planking before end of this year.... we will see......
 
regards, Hans...

I finished the battery of cannons in the waist this weekend. The Britannia metal guns and carriages did not need too much filing. The rig is fairly simple and there were no tackle for the carriage themselves. You could add a small block to each side of the carriage, if inclined, but you would have to order them separately. I went with the rigging plan provided with the exception of adding some coils on the end of each line. Rookie note: measure line lengths prior to building. I finally came up with 10" as a good length on the starboard battery. Note the different lengths on the larboard side.  

Beautiful. I love this.
Tim

Beautiful. I love this.
Tim

FINAL PHOTOS - 21 build days and 49 hours!
 
Here is a bunch of photos from the finished model. Thank you very much for watching and let's see when I will be off to the next building adventure (hopefully soon)
 
Regards,
 
Aydin
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Adam
 
I suggest you include Master Korabel.
I recently purchased their Phoenix Brigantine kit (I bought the plus version that includes the ships boat, higher quality wood and blocks) for a bit under $200 US.
Its quality is truly excellent, and value for money extraordinary.
 
There are also thirteen very clear online tutorials on youtube for each stage of its build. See an example here: https://youtu.be/c3MmCMmNK2s.
 
For a someone time poor and without lots of experience, its the best kit on the market.
 
Good review of its contents here https://youtu.be/1ITBzejbDbA
Below are some photos...not mine. 
 
Tim
 

 

Hi Guys
Diana the final photos. 
       I have managed at last to take and crop and re-size the final photo`s. Just under the 3 years to build, she has been a pleasure, although not without some difficulty`s, I am fairly pleased with the result, in hindsight some things I would have done a little bit differently, but not many, I might not have virtually scratch built the ships boats if the hull kits had been around, but this has lead me to be building another set of boats (scratch) at 1/48 as an in between project.
 

The main and mizzen top masts are now in place, and have all their shrouds and ratlines added, phew, I am glad they are all finished and that I split it up this way, as it did make the ratlines a lot less tedious to tie,I will now most likely add as much of the standing rigging that I can before fitting the tagallants masts.
I have also included some photos of Diana with Pegasus and The lady Nelson.
 
Firstly a lower fold down table I used to bring the rigging to a better level to work at

 
Main and mizzen masts



Completed ratlines



 
 
Some photos of Diana with Pegasus And some with The Lady Nelson as well

The end of the build.
 













 
Regards,  Antanas
 

I think  this comment might be fairly obvious, but the fact of the matter is I'm having trouble maintaining my enthusiasm for rebuilding my Agamemnon log.
 
However, despite the lack of evidence and a coherent storyline… I have actually finished! The whole thing!! It's taken me 11 years, 2 months and 3 days exactly. I have no idea how many hours I have spent on it, but it's a lot. The entire build was done on our kitchen table, which meant having to clear away before every meal and share it with my children when they did their homework. There are two lights hung quite low above the table, and when I got to the masting stage I bashed them nearly every time I moved the model from the top of the piano to the kitchen. Nevertheless she's still in one piece. Here are a couple of pictures:
 

 

 

 
She's very difficult to photograph most of the time because either she's against a wall, which results in an overlay of confusing shadows, or she's on the table with the lights in the picture and the kitchen clutter in the background. I took her out into the garden for the final shots, but even that isn't perfect. I'm considering getting some professional pictures taken in a studio, but for that I'll need a car with a higher roof.
 
I hope you like it!
 
Rob

This was my first attempt at model ship building. It is incomplete as the cannon were not built. I found 1:64 to be too small for me. The job was hurried because i wanted to try out all the aspects of the build to see how i liked it. I liked it a lot which is why i am about to take a very great deal of time building the AL 1:48 HMS Surprise.
 
The following photographs form a pictorial record of the build. Sorry....no words.
 
Mike.
 

If you want a high quality model as a reference point, this page may help.
Not mine. Obviously.
http://shipmodel.com/models/fair-american-full-hull-
Tim

Thanks guys.
Reference is very appreciated. Thank you Tim.
I already messed up on rear window location looks like..LOL..
 
Thanks John.
Vice has age no doubts. Was on the bench still when I moved into my current older house.
It's seen a lot of use from me. Even hand formed copper panels of a 1/10 scale Model T.
Tools are always a plus.
My current skill sets. Completely scratch built less wheels and tires.
 

If you want a high quality model as a reference point, this page may help.
Not mine. Obviously.
http://shipmodel.com/models/fair-american-full-hull-
Tim

This brings us to the Stern Framing and filler blocks.
I have the rear filler blocks cut and ready to be attached and shaped.
I also jumped ahead with rear planking.
Needing some more shaping, but the plans I feel get pretty vague here.
I wanted to add strength to the strips you need to add to the 3/32 pieces.
Afraid of bumping and banging..then break them off.
 

hello every body
 
I am finished with my langoustier, name plates and lanterns are added, and put in display case