Robin Lous

Here we are again...

With the photo's MESSIS provided I can figure it all out. Takes time, so I'm slowing down a bit at the moment.
 
But....I did some more. The oars I promised....

Olympias (origninal) oar plan.
 
To bump performance they equiped the Olympias later with oars with teardrop or paddle shaped blades.
These oars are not historical correct and I wondered why, so I asked a friend who was a university rower (in younger years).
His verdict: larger (teardrop, or whatever) shaped blades perform well on calm water, but are less suitable for rougher sea condictions.
The Olympias only goes for a swim when the weather is nice, so straight blades make more sense for sea going "real" ships.
 
So...making the oars...
 

With the Dusek tutorial video...it's a piece of baklava to make them. 

After turning the 2x2 mm dowels, using my proxxon flex shaft...low speed...I call them "roughs". 
 
The 3 types of oars.

The Dusek plan oars are too long and have narrow blades, so I glued 0,5 mm wood strips to the sides before sanding the blades and adjusted the lenght to the historical 9,5 cubits (4,22 m).
 
The third is the Olympias "cheater" oar. (1 mm woode strips)
 
I'll use the historical correct (Olympias type I) oar.
 
Furthermore...made some more pin rails, but not worth showing.
 
More soon,
 
Robin

and happy ending....
   

Some pictures from the making

The finished oars after final sanding and staining.

Painted the blade of the "Dusek oar" black. Like the Argo replica oars.
The Olympias has it's teardrop shaped blades painted white. Probably for observation and / or camera visibility purposes. Likely not historical.
 
 
Yes....
Well...they're pretty easy to make and I think I can do a batch of 5 in an hour. I'll try to do one batch per day..on the side.
 
Tomorrow I'll start with attaching the 3 heart blocks to the top of the mast. My first step in the world of rigging. 
 
More soon,
 
Robin

The finished oars after final sanding and staining.

Painted the blade of the "Dusek oar" black. Like the Argo replica oars.
The Olympias has it's teardrop shaped blades painted white. Probably for observation and / or camera visibility purposes. Likely not historical.
 
 
Yes....
Well...they're pretty easy to make and I think I can do a batch of 5 in an hour. I'll try to do one batch per day..on the side.
 
Tomorrow I'll start with attaching the 3 heart blocks to the top of the mast. My first step in the world of rigging. 
 
More soon,
 
Robin

Not sure if it's of any use for you, but I found a nice image of a truck in a book about masts and rigging..
 

 
 With one or two holes.

Not sure if it's of any use for you, but I found a nice image of a truck in a book about masts and rigging..
 

 
 With one or two holes.

good evening everyone,
Decided to go for a Grey primer for the deck, and a red orca for the bulkheads, this is all on top of a paper primer that I used Modge Podge

The finished oars after final sanding and staining.

Painted the blade of the "Dusek oar" black. Like the Argo replica oars.
The Olympias has it's teardrop shaped blades painted white. Probably for observation and / or camera visibility purposes. Likely not historical.
 
 
Yes....
Well...they're pretty easy to make and I think I can do a batch of 5 in an hour. I'll try to do one batch per day..on the side.
 
Tomorrow I'll start with attaching the 3 heart blocks to the top of the mast. My first step in the world of rigging. 
 
More soon,
 
Robin

Here we are again...

With the photo's MESSIS provided I can figure it all out. Takes time, so I'm slowing down a bit at the moment.
 
But....I did some more. The oars I promised....

Olympias (origninal) oar plan.
 
To bump performance they equiped the Olympias later with oars with teardrop or paddle shaped blades.
These oars are not historical correct and I wondered why, so I asked a friend who was a university rower (in younger years).
His verdict: larger (teardrop, or whatever) shaped blades perform well on calm water, but are less suitable for rougher sea condictions.
The Olympias only goes for a swim when the weather is nice, so straight blades make more sense for sea going "real" ships.
 
So...making the oars...
 

With the Dusek tutorial video...it's a piece of baklava to make them. 

After turning the 2x2 mm dowels, using my proxxon flex shaft...low speed...I call them "roughs". 
 
The 3 types of oars.

The Dusek plan oars are too long and have narrow blades, so I glued 0,5 mm wood strips to the sides before sanding the blades and adjusted the lenght to the historical 9,5 cubits (4,22 m).
 
The third is the Olympias "cheater" oar. (1 mm woode strips)
 
I'll use the historical correct (Olympias type I) oar.
 
Furthermore...made some more pin rails, but not worth showing.
 
More soon,
 
Robin

Here we are again...

With the photo's MESSIS provided I can figure it all out. Takes time, so I'm slowing down a bit at the moment.
 
But....I did some more. The oars I promised....

Olympias (origninal) oar plan.
 
To bump performance they equiped the Olympias later with oars with teardrop or paddle shaped blades.
These oars are not historical correct and I wondered why, so I asked a friend who was a university rower (in younger years).
His verdict: larger (teardrop, or whatever) shaped blades perform well on calm water, but are less suitable for rougher sea condictions.
The Olympias only goes for a swim when the weather is nice, so straight blades make more sense for sea going "real" ships.
 
So...making the oars...
 

With the Dusek tutorial video...it's a piece of baklava to make them. 

After turning the 2x2 mm dowels, using my proxxon flex shaft...low speed...I call them "roughs". 
 
The 3 types of oars.

The Dusek plan oars are too long and have narrow blades, so I glued 0,5 mm wood strips to the sides before sanding the blades and adjusted the lenght to the historical 9,5 cubits (4,22 m).
 
The third is the Olympias "cheater" oar. (1 mm woode strips)
 
I'll use the historical correct (Olympias type I) oar.
 
Furthermore...made some more pin rails, but not worth showing.
 
More soon,
 
Robin

Nothing which can be done without a "tot". Looks promissing Robin

Here we are again...

With the photo's MESSIS provided I can figure it all out. Takes time, so I'm slowing down a bit at the moment.
 
But....I did some more. The oars I promised....

Olympias (origninal) oar plan.
 
To bump performance they equiped the Olympias later with oars with teardrop or paddle shaped blades.
These oars are not historical correct and I wondered why, so I asked a friend who was a university rower (in younger years).
His verdict: larger (teardrop, or whatever) shaped blades perform well on calm water, but are less suitable for rougher sea condictions.
The Olympias only goes for a swim when the weather is nice, so straight blades make more sense for sea going "real" ships.
 
So...making the oars...
 

With the Dusek tutorial video...it's a piece of baklava to make them. 

After turning the 2x2 mm dowels, using my proxxon flex shaft...low speed...I call them "roughs". 
 
The 3 types of oars.

The Dusek plan oars are too long and have narrow blades, so I glued 0,5 mm wood strips to the sides before sanding the blades and adjusted the lenght to the historical 9,5 cubits (4,22 m).
 
The third is the Olympias "cheater" oar. (1 mm woode strips)
 
I'll use the historical correct (Olympias type I) oar.
 
Furthermore...made some more pin rails, but not worth showing.
 
More soon,
 
Robin

On planking layout there can be variances between the different countries and eras of the ship. If you are wanting to get historically accurate then you will need to do research on your ship to see what the building practices were during that time of construction by that country.
 
As for a quick and simple answer that will work for most builds, you are on the right track. The following layout will work on a P.O.B. build like the one you are doing. Butt joint, three strakes then another butt joint. Just keep moving your butt joints down one frame on each strake and the fourth strake bring the butt joints back into alignment. A simple way to achieve this is to measure the planks for 4 frame spaces. Split the first frame so two planks can butt together on it, span the next two frames and split the 4th for another butt joint. Then on the next strake up shift the first plank one frame forward and by the time you are on the 4th strake your butt joints will be back in alignment.
 
No, this is not 100% to scale nor fully accurate construction but, it will allow you to get the fundamental planking practices down and will create a very good planking layout that will be in the correct ball park for planking practices.

Here we are again...

With the photo's MESSIS provided I can figure it all out. Takes time, so I'm slowing down a bit at the moment.
 
But....I did some more. The oars I promised....

Olympias (origninal) oar plan.
 
To bump performance they equiped the Olympias later with oars with teardrop or paddle shaped blades.
These oars are not historical correct and I wondered why, so I asked a friend who was a university rower (in younger years).
His verdict: larger (teardrop, or whatever) shaped blades perform well on calm water, but are less suitable for rougher sea condictions.
The Olympias only goes for a swim when the weather is nice, so straight blades make more sense for sea going "real" ships.
 
So...making the oars...
 

With the Dusek tutorial video...it's a piece of baklava to make them. 

After turning the 2x2 mm dowels, using my proxxon flex shaft...low speed...I call them "roughs". 
 
The 3 types of oars.

The Dusek plan oars are too long and have narrow blades, so I glued 0,5 mm wood strips to the sides before sanding the blades and adjusted the lenght to the historical 9,5 cubits (4,22 m).
 
The third is the Olympias "cheater" oar. (1 mm woode strips)
 
I'll use the historical correct (Olympias type I) oar.
 
Furthermore...made some more pin rails, but not worth showing.
 
More soon,
 
Robin

Here we are again...

With the photo's MESSIS provided I can figure it all out. Takes time, so I'm slowing down a bit at the moment.
 
But....I did some more. The oars I promised....

Olympias (origninal) oar plan.
 
To bump performance they equiped the Olympias later with oars with teardrop or paddle shaped blades.
These oars are not historical correct and I wondered why, so I asked a friend who was a university rower (in younger years).
His verdict: larger (teardrop, or whatever) shaped blades perform well on calm water, but are less suitable for rougher sea condictions.
The Olympias only goes for a swim when the weather is nice, so straight blades make more sense for sea going "real" ships.
 
So...making the oars...
 

With the Dusek tutorial video...it's a piece of baklava to make them. 

After turning the 2x2 mm dowels, using my proxxon flex shaft...low speed...I call them "roughs". 
 
The 3 types of oars.

The Dusek plan oars are too long and have narrow blades, so I glued 0,5 mm wood strips to the sides before sanding the blades and adjusted the lenght to the historical 9,5 cubits (4,22 m).
 
The third is the Olympias "cheater" oar. (1 mm woode strips)
 
I'll use the historical correct (Olympias type I) oar.
 
Furthermore...made some more pin rails, but not worth showing.
 
More soon,
 
Robin

Here we are again...

With the photo's MESSIS provided I can figure it all out. Takes time, so I'm slowing down a bit at the moment.
 
But....I did some more. The oars I promised....

Olympias (origninal) oar plan.
 
To bump performance they equiped the Olympias later with oars with teardrop or paddle shaped blades.
These oars are not historical correct and I wondered why, so I asked a friend who was a university rower (in younger years).
His verdict: larger (teardrop, or whatever) shaped blades perform well on calm water, but are less suitable for rougher sea condictions.
The Olympias only goes for a swim when the weather is nice, so straight blades make more sense for sea going "real" ships.
 
So...making the oars...
 

With the Dusek tutorial video...it's a piece of baklava to make them. 

After turning the 2x2 mm dowels, using my proxxon flex shaft...low speed...I call them "roughs". 
 
The 3 types of oars.

The Dusek plan oars are too long and have narrow blades, so I glued 0,5 mm wood strips to the sides before sanding the blades and adjusted the lenght to the historical 9,5 cubits (4,22 m).
 
The third is the Olympias "cheater" oar. (1 mm woode strips)
 
I'll use the historical correct (Olympias type I) oar.
 
Furthermore...made some more pin rails, but not worth showing.
 
More soon,
 
Robin

Nice quick lesson in oars. Thanks for that information and once again I have learned something new on this site.
 
Now to repeat that process many, many times.....

Here we are again...

With the photo's MESSIS provided I can figure it all out. Takes time, so I'm slowing down a bit at the moment.
 
But....I did some more. The oars I promised....

Olympias (origninal) oar plan.
 
To bump performance they equiped the Olympias later with oars with teardrop or paddle shaped blades.
These oars are not historical correct and I wondered why, so I asked a friend who was a university rower (in younger years).
His verdict: larger (teardrop, or whatever) shaped blades perform well on calm water, but are less suitable for rougher sea condictions.
The Olympias only goes for a swim when the weather is nice, so straight blades make more sense for sea going "real" ships.
 
So...making the oars...
 

With the Dusek tutorial video...it's a piece of baklava to make them. 

After turning the 2x2 mm dowels, using my proxxon flex shaft...low speed...I call them "roughs". 
 
The 3 types of oars.

The Dusek plan oars are too long and have narrow blades, so I glued 0,5 mm wood strips to the sides before sanding the blades and adjusted the lenght to the historical 9,5 cubits (4,22 m).
 
The third is the Olympias "cheater" oar. (1 mm woode strips)
 
I'll use the historical correct (Olympias type I) oar.
 
Furthermore...made some more pin rails, but not worth showing.
 
More soon,
 
Robin

Here we are again...

With the photo's MESSIS provided I can figure it all out. Takes time, so I'm slowing down a bit at the moment.
 
But....I did some more. The oars I promised....

Olympias (origninal) oar plan.
 
To bump performance they equiped the Olympias later with oars with teardrop or paddle shaped blades.
These oars are not historical correct and I wondered why, so I asked a friend who was a university rower (in younger years).
His verdict: larger (teardrop, or whatever) shaped blades perform well on calm water, but are less suitable for rougher sea condictions.
The Olympias only goes for a swim when the weather is nice, so straight blades make more sense for sea going "real" ships.
 
So...making the oars...
 

With the Dusek tutorial video...it's a piece of baklava to make them. 

After turning the 2x2 mm dowels, using my proxxon flex shaft...low speed...I call them "roughs". 
 
The 3 types of oars.

The Dusek plan oars are too long and have narrow blades, so I glued 0,5 mm wood strips to the sides before sanding the blades and adjusted the lenght to the historical 9,5 cubits (4,22 m).
 
The third is the Olympias "cheater" oar. (1 mm woode strips)
 
I'll use the historical correct (Olympias type I) oar.
 
Furthermore...made some more pin rails, but not worth showing.
 
More soon,
 
Robin

Saturday, October 29, 2016  
The approaching steps for the task of planking are continuing . .  
I have completed the keel, applying the walnut 1,5x5 strip which constitutes the false keel. Then, after cleaning the whole by sanding, I tested the dry mounting of this piece: perfect.  
A due tribute to the laser cutting technology and the kit manufacturer . .  
Then I run some additional changes to the building slip to allow to hold the hull structure, which I remember, is not glued together but stays only thanks to the many joints.  
With these slight changes, in due course, I will fix everything in a stable and robust way to the building slip and I hope to avoid many worries. At the end of planking, I'll need just a scissor to detach eveything without efforts.  
01 - 20161029_165055.jpg 02 - 20161029_165048.jpg
03 - 20161029_165252.jpg
04 - 20161029_165109.jpg
Detail of the metal rings and pins, all elements glued to the slip with cyan-acrylate to insure strenght; they will serve to firmly hold the bulkheads to the building slip.
 
05 - 20161029_201736.jpg
See you next time . . Jack.
 

Thanks for the encouraging comments and "Likes".
 
Made the Binnacle. Pretty standard, assembled kit supplied laser cut pieces. Added a grooved trim on the sides and back. Rather than try to make tiny knobbed handles I glued snips of wire flat to the drawers to simulate flat pull handles. Added tiny wire pins to hold it to the deck better when it is added latter
 
Tried soldering 2 wires to make the bell holder. Don't have the best soldering iron or solder so this was very stressful. After many ties they kept breaking back apart. Was giving up on soldering and trying to glue with just as bad results. Then I remembered something from my years as a bench jeweler. I remember sometimes holding a small clipped piece of solder with CA glue on the joint. The CA held the solder in place but also acted as flux when heated. One last try this way and it finally worked.
 
Tried to solder the bell to this but the bell melted some and warped a little bit. This turned out to be a good thing because the kit supplied bell was a bit large. After filing down and reshaping the bell it was much smaller and shorter which worked better. I drilled a hole through the top. Inserted a wire through bell to double as the ringer below and the means to attach it to the holder at the top Will finish it up later when all this is actually added onto the deck.
 
Jesse
 

A year to the day since I bought the kit, I am finished.  My only regret is I wish I would have kept track of my total hours worked.  Will do that next time.  Thanks for all the likes and kind words along the way.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Greetings Again.
 
I can't believe that it's been 54 weeks since I started Endeavour and first posted in this log. Time really flies when you are having fun.
 
I reached what I consider to be a milestone on the build. All of the masts, spars and tops, mast caps and bow spirt have been fabricated.
I dry fitted all of the components and they seem to fit fairly well. Some, well maybe more than some, touch up will be required. Then its on to mounting the eye bolts and all the rest of the goodies that should be done before stepping the masts. Finally the painting will be completed. I won't admit to how many dowels it took to get this far.
 
I tried to do the hexagonal center for the main yards on a piece of scrap. This did not go well and I have decided to omit this. I can see where starting with square stock for the spars is definately the way to go. Next time.
 
We'll take a break. Clean up the shop. And, maybe work on my solid hull Sultana for a bit.
 
Regards
 
 
Photos to follow

I'm sorry that I haven't had much to post lately.  I'm still trying to catch up on Heroine no. 2.  Seems like it takes twice as long the second time around despite having all the parts already milled.  Just for a change, I decided to put together the cabin stoves.
 
Current progress on Model 2

 
Testing the height of the chimneys.  Leaning a bit.  The wooden block is temporary until the breachings are assembled.

 
 
Kevins reconstruction shows a large galley stove on the main deck and two smaller cabin stoves on the boiler deck. One for the men's cabin and one for the women's.  All the stoves will be placed in firebrick lined boxes on the deck.
 
Drawing of the cabin stove minus the legs.

 
Milled stove parts.  I somehow left the back panels out of the picture.

 
Blackened stove minus legs and bolts.