garyshipwright
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Mark when you showed the contract of the Culloden I just knew that I had seen this a few times before. I am sure I read this but one soon forget were they read it, untill you need the info, and then you can't remember were you read it. That is untill a sir comes along.🙂 Never thought about the cost and the reason they did away with the brick, interesting. Wish I had got a few earlier contracts in the 1750's and only have one from the 1760's. They would come in handy that's for sure. -
Mark instead of steaming the wood, what about cutting thinner piece's and glue them back to back held in a jig? That way you don't have to worry about the strong spring back. Just my thought's good sir. Gary
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Well Mark guess we can put a slash through using Peter's fig 5/28 about the brick floor and go with a a metal floor. Teaches me that I should look at primary first and use books today as secondary. 🥺
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you know Johann every time I see photo's of her I am overwhelmed by your skill and just can not wait till I see your next set of photo's. You set a very high bar. Gary
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Mark the drawing of the stove reminds me of the Brodie stove and looking at the drawing shows there are difference between the one on the Dorsetshire (1757) and the Brodie stove. Have to agree with druxey that there was bricks below stoves at that time. Now I have to see if I can find it again so i don't put my foot in the wrong place.😁 Well good sir found another place to see the history of the stove at least from his stand point and that is Peter Goodwin book, The sailing man of war. He gives us a look at what came before the Brodie stove taking us all the way back to 1707 on page 161. He says that it was brick beneith the stove in fig 5/28. Gary
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Those are very nice Mark. Do believe that druxey was talking about these when they first came out a couple years back. I have been tempted many times but never pulled the card out. ;o) Gary
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Have to agree with you 100 percent Gaetan. When I got to about 75 percent of the hole I stated filing up to the finally size. Work great. Also if you drill the holes make sure you have a piece of wood inboard so you don't break out the wood. Don't forget Mark, the holes are slanted up from the outside to the inside. Of course am sure most of this you all ready knew. ;o) Gary
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Mark If you plan on wanting to try and use Ivory you can legally purchase it from a fellow named David Warther who lives in SugarCreek Ohio. He has a gift shop and makes model ships out of ivory, which he has on display. He was legally able to get it from museum's and believe its called legal antique ivory. He has a web site and if you send him a email, you might be able to get some pieces for you Bellona. I purchased some from him in 2001 and it's still waiting for me to carve somthing out of it for Alfred. Of course the price today compared to then, might be just a bit higher. Gary
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Books have been sold.
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Hi druxey and thank you for the picture. That does look like the same green color that Siggi52 used on his Dragon but not 100 percent sure. Any way of finding what color this green really is and mixing up the color? Gary
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Hi Mark. Could it have been the green color that Siggi52 was using on his model of the Dragon? As far as the spirketting, what you could do is cut out the bottom piece, top and bottom, pin it in place and then put a piece of card file behind it and mark off the bottom edge of the 2nd piece. Once you have the bottom of the second piece all cut out and fitted then you can use the bottom cill to get the height of this piece. That is what I did and then I put treenail's in to the holes with just a tad of glue to hold them in place. You also can paint or dye the pieces before you install them. Hope this helps and maybe gives you a ideal or two. Gary
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Hi Mark you could go to work on building your rudder, braces, pintles and tiller which will take you some time. Give you a short break that you need from the planking. Of course you have to make sure that it works when all is said and done. ;o) Then you can work on the cavings which I havn't even started yet. Seems it took me a while to make the metal work for it and thought I was never going to get that part done. One thing is for sure there is plenty of things to make and build for her, that and working on the honey dues. Guess I better go cut the yard now. Gary
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Thanks Pat. Hope to have another update before my next birthday, at least thats the plan. ;o)Gary
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Thanks Mark P. Berwicks plan has been a life saver on how some things in side Montagu such as the wales, knees and several other things look. Gary
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You very welcome Mark. druxey thats ok, and thank you. All is not lost and I will have plenty of photos of her as I was building her. I wished I had taken a lot when I was building Richard but other then the ones of her out side seems there is a lot of hidden detail in her and the only way to see what is there is to either see one being built or looking at her drawings. Gary
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Sorry Mark. Seems when I started a new log after the other one disappeared I didn't replace them and will add some here. I followed the Berwick plan which seems she is about has close as I can get to how Montagu was built. When I did the ones at the bow I made up a jig the curve shape of the bow timbers from templates and steamed them in a plywood jig. Gary
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Mark you could look in to getting some dental tools that might be small enough to help you do the carving. Gary
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Thanks every one and the happy birthday's and comments are well received. Greg thought I would let you know but the rudder does work and moves from stbd to port. I probably will put in a stop some place which should prevent me from wanting to put it in the tub and take it sailing. Well maybe not the tub. Ed, this is one of the more interesting things I have done on her along with tackles for the gun port lids that you can see in the photo's. Once again thank you folk's and hope to have another up date before my next birthday. 🐵
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Hi Guys. Being that today is my birthday, figure I would do a small update. This time its on the upper gun deck along with the tiller and the track which it runs in with making and installing beams, hanging and lodging knees that has to have a cast in them so they clear the gun ports. As I said some place you have to fit 3 to four parts in place temporary in order to glue one part in permanently. Doesn't seem one gets much done but has long as you are enjoying it or cares. Thanks guys hope you enjoy the photos.
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Shoot Mark, wait till you get to the curve knee's of the upper deck, its a lot of fun. At least the planking is on the out side. Working in side the hull is a back breaker. The gun ports on alfred took me am thinking around 10 years give or take another 5 years. At the moment am working on adding the tiller and sweep and the upper deck beams which seems in order to go one step forward you have to work on two to three beams get them all notch out and finally glue one in place but still it is a lot of fun. Gary
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Mark, Fincham's says in his book, Fincham's Ship -Building, Port Stops are the ends and edges of the planks left round the ports, from one and a half to two and a quarter inches from the sides of the timbers and upper and lower parts of the sill, to receive the port-lids and half -ports. You can find this on page 138 reprinted by the Ship Model Society of Rode Island 1933. Sounds like the stops no matter what deck they were on was always a inch and half to two and a quarter inches. Gary
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Hi Johann. You know your setting the bar very very high and I for one really enjoy watching your build. Keep up the great work sir gives me something to shoot for. Gary
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Looking good Mark. Keep up the good work sir. Gary
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