garyshipwright

Nice job Mark. This is one of the item's that am looking forward to building, if I ever get there. Your hard work and drawings are a life saving and just might save me some time that is if I have your permission using this. Gary

Nice job Mark. This is one of the item's that am looking forward to building, if I ever get there. Your hard work and drawings are a life saving and just might save me some time that is if I have your permission using this. Gary

Nice job Mark. This is one of the item's that am looking forward to building, if I ever get there. Your hard work and drawings are a life saving and just might save me some time that is if I have your permission using this. Gary

I am still working away, slowly. I have run into a continuing puzzle of what happens before what in the building sequence. I know I have to finish all outboard work and paint and work the friezes, before fastening the guns in the gundeck (because they stick out) and proceeding along to the upper decks. However, I can't finish the outboard works before fitting the cat beam and cattails. So now I have to flip back to decks for a time. Maybe I will start the remaining decks at the bow, finish the outboard work, paint, and then get back to the decks...
 
Long story short, I have started on the cat beam. It requires a rabbet at its aft side, for landing the planks of the quarterdeck. I have long thought how nice it would be to have a small router table, and now I need one. I suddenly thought, what about the Foredom drill press stand turned outside down? it worked!
 
I made a fence with a face the same radius as the top of the beam, which provides good support. A wooden block fitted below the Foredom clamp allows a screw for fine vertical adjustments.
 
I saved a bunch of money on a dedicated miniature router table; I wonder what I should spend it on?🤨
 
Mark
 
 

 
 
 

Thought I would add some close up photo's of Montague.  I was on the NRG site and came across the article by Kurt on taking photo's of ones work and figure I needed to practice  a bit. Guess I have to find a little space for a photo booth when  taking good photo's of my ship.  Well guys one day maybe I get the hang of taking good photo's, hope you enjoy the close up. Gary

Waterline is on! After a bit of touch up on the red and blue, I'm a happy camper. It's obviously hand painted, but that's part of the charm. But I think it's crisp and looks great. Might be a bit wide, but I really don't mind it. Time to hurry up and wait while it dries.

Well Giampiero, since you finished your upper deck could you come over and finish mine!!! Only kidding sir, and great outstanding job. Gary

Thank you very much Steve. She is my baby thats for sure . Why else would one spend 20 years with her. 😊  She doesn't have a stain good sir just a couple of coats of bee's wax mixed with turpentine. Welcome to the site, you couldn't find a better place any were on the internet.  Allan if you need to steal my log to welcome a new member you go right ahead and look forward to your next update. Gary

Return to the Bowsprit Step:
I decided to make the uprights separately- the lower part already made and fixed before the upper deck.
These Uprights,are 4.24mm square and height 22mm above the Beam (plans)
They are scored onto the beam so to sit on the top of the Step frame.
The top of the Pins are shaped using a rounded milling piece to form a slight concavity, and the top corners are chamfered.
These uprights are also scored to  depth 0.66m  to accept a crosspiece-at 13mm above the deck
 
The Crosspiece
3.45x2.39mm with length 37mm. Chamfered at the edges and slightly scalloped near the ends.
 
Slits for the Sheaves
Below the crosspiece, a slit is made for a 3.7x1mm sheave 
This will be the same be at the level of a sheave 3.71x0.53mm, within a Cheek attached to the side of the Upright.
 
The Cheek sits on the deck planks, is 1.6mm wide and 8mm high. Rather than make these separately I decided to take a strip, form the pattern along its length, and then cut to the required width (slightly narrower than the uprights).
It is mortised to a depth of  0.6 mm x 4.2mm to take the sheave.(milled)
The top forms a molding (I made with a 1mm milling bit “stepped” across and down.
 
BRILLIANT  !!!  except that I made the mortise on the wrong side. The molding should slope outwards !!! Start again.(But the method was good).
 
I made the sheaves from wood and temporarily  glued the assembly in place, I must learn to cut slices from copper rods I recently bought.

Forecastle Waterway
Size - max thickness 2.12 with the”:flattened “ section 1.33mm to be flush with the planks.
I tried a different method for shaping- scalpels and the Proxxon sanding wand.
This seemed more efficient in time and result.
(not obvious yet, but a contrasting wood used- walnut I think, because it gives me the sneezes!!)

Coamings to the Steam Gratings
TFFM refers to how previously made, which like the idiot I am, used the same size strips. 
These however are only about ⅔ as wide. This became obvious after seeing again the small size of the gratings. 
I used a similar depth however, to allow for the pronounced roundup of the Head Lodges.
The Gratings themselves are also much narrower- too narrow for my thinnest table saw blade.
I used some precut gratings from an old kit that are more to scale.
The overall size and positioning seem to vary amongst patterns, plans and other builds I have seen.
The middle coaming is for the Cowl base. It was a metal plate, but both 3D rendering and D. Vardas show it rounded up similarly to the Gratinga. Therefore, the solid block I used.
This Coaming is shown aligned with those fore and aft, but the diameter of my Cowl, necessitates this to be wider

Thought I would add some close up photo's of Montague.  I was on the NRG site and came across the article by Kurt on taking photo's of ones work and figure I needed to practice  a bit. Guess I have to find a little space for a photo booth when  taking good photo's of my ship.  Well guys one day maybe I get the hang of taking good photo's, hope you enjoy the close up. Gary

Looking good Glenn. You planking job is outstanding and really look's good. Gary

Nice job Greg. Should help me turn them when I finally get to that point. Gary

Nice job Greg. Should help me turn them when I finally get to that point. Gary

Nice job Greg. Should help me turn them when I finally get to that point. Gary

Nice job Greg. Should help me turn them when I finally get to that point. Gary

Nice job Greg. Should help me turn them when I finally get to that point. Gary

Looks outstanding Reg. Hope to be building one in the near future. Gary

One thing for sure Alan, after the scary first one you get better at cutting them out.  For me I would cut a few each day, help's one from going insane, thank goodness. good job. 

Looking good Glenn. You planking job is outstanding and really look's good. Gary

Looking good Glenn. You planking job is outstanding and really look's good. Gary

An Upright Hull at Last
 
Thought I’d share a few photos of my Winchelsea hull upright.
 
I thought about what would be easier to do now than later in the build, following the always good practice of reading ahead.

I drilled out the rudder port. To line it up I cut out a copy of the counter frieze and loosely taped it to the counter (I’ll get a better fit, only concerned about the rudder port) after cutting out the black area representing the port, drew a pencil line, drilled a hole, and worked my way out with a #11 blade and sanding sticks. I pulled out the rudder pieces from Chapter 5 and held the two parts together that pass through the port (the dark line shown in the photo is the rudder) to confirm the hole was big enough. I stopped well short of the black line, I’ll adjust later as needed. The still unassembled rudder went back in the bag.

I used the jig from Chapter 10 to determine the height of the stern frames and cut them down about 1/8th higher than the jig to allow for future adjustments. Why not paint them black, as they eventually must be, while I’m at it. I will admit I broke one during the hull planking, fortunately it was a clean break and easily glued back together. I waited until the planking was complete, it has bothered me looking at it all that time. Now it’s fixed.

Finally I painted the stem. It was always going to be black, I’d rather deal with occasional touch up and get it done now while it’s relatively easy to do.

With that the hull is prepped and ready for the next steps, the transom, upper counter, and quarter galleries - can’t wait.  Once again, excuse the rushed iPhone photos with their work light glare.
 
As always thank you for stopping by with your likes and your comments. I really appreciate it.

Hi Richard. I have the dewalt scroll saw, and three table saws. A ten inch cabinet saw from grizzly, Jim saw with a new 18"x 10" table top and a Preac saw for cutting grating and other parts. My Jim saw get's a lot of use compared to the other two and really enjoy using it. I would recommend the dewalt scroll saw and the Jim saw. Can't do with out them that's for sure. Also have the sherline lathe and mill which the mill gets the most used between the two. Gary